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False Floor for a Keezer?

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Yesfan

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Has anyone done this? I've thought about buying some perforated sheets to make one that would sit on a PVC frame. Stainless or Aluminum? How do I know what thickness to get for weight issues? My keezer can hold about 10 kegs, but most I've had in it has been 6. TIA!
 

eric19312

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I cut up a couple pieces of closet shelving - the white plastic coated wire stuff from the big box stores. I cut some 1" long pieces of 2" diameter PVC pipe and set them underneath. Holds fine if you distribute the weight and really helps with air circulation (I use 1 computer fan). I have 4 keg keezer in a 7cf GE.
 

501irishred

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I cut the bottom out of some plastic crates (ie bread flats). If your intent is to just protect the thin aluminum flooring, then this solution might be of interest. They were simple to cut, are easy to remove to be washed in the dishwasher, and have kept the floor from any additional dings (a few prior to install).
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I use wooden dowels attached to new wooden bungs on the four corners that a local brewery used in their kegs to identify their brand. The bungs are the size of a hockey puck. These work well if I need to clean under a keg and leave the others alone. I like the ease and cost of the solution above. Old milk crates would work as well when you cut one apart. I am really happy with mine. Great idea to move air around and also to check for condensation issues in the summer.
 

hafmpty

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I have 2.5gal kegs so to raise them up a bit I flipped plastic 2-liter pop crates over (think like milk crates only they hold 2-liters) and stack the kegs on that. Makes getting them in and out a bit easier and brings them closer to working height too.
 

eric19312

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What's the point of doing it?
For me point was to permit air circulation. My keezer is very tight when full. And my collar is not insulated. I used to have issue with warm lines and tons of condensation. Used a false bottom design that allows me to pull warmer air from collar area and blow it to floor. It then spreads under the kegs and comes back up the other side. No more temp stratification creating warm lines and foamy pours. Added a gel based dehumidifier on the false bottom in path of my fan and greatly reduced condensation issues. Key is to create a path for air flow. While I like the plastic milk crate idea I don’t see that doing anything to help air flow.
 

pbrennan10

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What's the point of doing it?
for me, utilizing a height stagger since a 20# and a ball lock are about the same height. I'd like to set something up to lift the whole bottom up for protection and airflow a few inches and than mount a fan to pull that upward, and have a center pedestal for the co2 tank.

Attached a picture w/ co2 tank w/ about a 5 inch lift (temporary test setup). I can rotate it enough to pull kegs.
 

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eric19312

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for me, utilizing a height stagger since a 20# and a ball lock are about the same height. I'd like to set something up to lift the whole bottom up for protection and airflow a few inches and than mount a fan to pull that upward, and have a center pedestal for the co2 tank.

Attached a picture w/ co2 tank w/ about a 5 inch lift (temporary test setup). I can rotate it enough to pull kegs.
Thats a nice build. I'd probably put 2 more kegs in the keezer and keep the CO2 outside but my keezer is in garage so nobody is complaining about the ugly CO2 bottle.
 

metaltim

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What's the point of doing it?
Definitely air flow. My first keezer project 8-9 years ago, I had issues with some kegs being warm, and some freezing. I put them on a wire grid shelf, and problems went away.

I haven't done it on my new keezer project yet, though I did buy the shelf, it just wasn't exactly the right size.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OI12GRC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

But, there is more space between my kegs in this new chest freezer, so surely that helps. My last one, the kegs were all touching each other. (that sounds dirty)
 
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