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False bottom for coors keg

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nyer

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I need a false bottom for my direct fire converted coors keg mashtun. I was looking at a 12" one at Austin Homebrew, #01057. It says it's for a 10 gallon cooler. Does anyone know if it will work on my keg?
 
Is your opening on your keg at least 12.0000001" in diameter?

I need to measure it later to be sure. My concern is whether or not it will fit correctly in the bottom of the keg and allow direct heating for raising temps.
 
I don't see why this wouldn't work as you intend to use it. It's all metal so it won't melt. And it is designed to withstand heat as it is for sparging. The only issue I would see with it, is that of fitting the hole in the top of your keg. They have folding ones around from this purpose. I forget the last time I even searched for one so I don't have a link to any. And I mash and lauter in my cooler. Then transfer to my boiler. One day I'll use one of my keggles for a MLT. Then I'll be in the same boat as you.
 
Maybe I don't need to worry about it. I remember reading on here once that if you are using direct fire under one it needs to be large enough so that you aren't just heating a very small area of liquid.
 
If you are direct firing the mash, you would be stirring it as well. If you are using it to boil, you are also stirring occasionally. I could see the concern about having such a small amount of liquid being heated, but you really would stir while heating to distribute the heat evenly.
 
It looks like I need one around 14" to 14 1/2" to fit the coors keg. I emailed jaybird about getting one made.

Kudos to Austin Homebrew, they emailed back saying that their product would work but pointed out a better option at a competitor.
 
I used the Austin Homebrew style for a couple of years, then bought the Sabco bottom. The Sabco is much thicker SS and is hinged so you can remove it from your opening.

The Sabco rests up higher so you have a good 1-1/2" or so of wort in the bottom area. It is wider (14-15"?), so sparge (and mash recirc) has more surface area to drain across.

I like the Sabco precision, but am not totally objective. I also bought their new generation brewing frame and love it.
 
I used the Austin Homebrew style for a couple of years, then bought the Sabco bottom. The Sabco is much thicker SS and is hinged so you can remove it from your opening.

The Sabco rests up higher so you have a good 1-1/2" or so of wort in the bottom area. It is wider (14-15"?), so sparge (and mash recirc) has more surface area to drain across.

I like the Sabco precision, but am not totally objective. I also bought their new generation brewing frame and love it.

I think Sabco's is 15" so it won't fit the coors keg. That is the one AHS recommended though.
 
It looks like I need one around 14" to 14 1/2" to fit the coors keg. I emailed jaybird about getting one made.

Kudos to Austin Homebrew, they emailed back saying that their product would work but pointed out a better option at a competitor.

Got your e-mail and sent reply there too. But for others looking I will also post here.
When direct firing a mash tun it is a great idea to have two things going on.
1. Have a fasle bottom that is the full size of the bottom of the keg your heating.
2. Keep things moving. If you keep the wort flowing you'll be better off. You dont have to flow fast at all, but a little movement in the tun will help.

The old Coors belly kegs wont take a False Bottom larger than 14 1/8" I can cut that for you no problem.

Cheers
Jay
 
Got your e-mail and sent reply there too. But for others looking I will also post here.
When direct firing a mash tun it is a great idea to have two things going on.
1. Have a fasle bottom that is the full size of the bottom of the keg your heating.
2. Keep things moving. If you keep the wort flowing you'll be better off. You dont have to flow fast at all, but a little movement in the tun will help.

The old Coors belly kegs wont take a False Bottom larger than 14 1/8" I can cut that for you no problem.

Cheers
Jay

I never got your email, I sent you a PM.
 
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