Explaining the brewing process in under 3 minutes

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Jimbodaman

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I have to present a real world example of Differential Equations in my Diff EQ class, and of course I chose to look at the various differential equations of brewing beer. I have to present for 15-20 minutes mostly about the math behind fly sparging, mash temperature control, and exponential growth of yeast, among other things. So I need to give a very quick and effective synopsis of the brewing process.

In other words how do you explain the ALL GRAIN brewing process to your friends/family/pretty girls at the bar.
 
Add water at the right temp to extract sugars from grain, then you boil the liquid and add hops, chill it down, and pitch yeast that eat the sugars and make booze.
 
Why would you want to try to explain the brewing process to pretty girls at the bar? Are you trying to scare them away?

I don't have any advice. Any time I start describing the process I get sidetracked on all kinds of different methods and the science and I start to see their eye glaze over. Actually, come to think of it, this tends to happen well before 3 minutes is up...
 
The Mash:
Grains are like tea or coffee, steep at the proper temperature to get your preferred flavors from the grains you chose. It takes time to fully steep, so count on about an hour for this step. The malted grain flavored liquid you make here is called wort.

The Boil:
There are several reasons to boil. Sanitizing the wort, concentrating the wort, modifying the flavor of the wort, driving off undesirable components, adding bitterness and flavor through Hops. Boil long enough to accomplish each of these goals, often about an hour.

The Ferment:
This is where your yeast will eat the sugar in your wort and produce alcohol, which what actually makes this stuff beer. The yeast have a temperature they like to live at, so you need to get the wort to that temperature, then add the yeast, then wait for them to do their job. Usually a couple of weeks here.

The Carbonation:
Once the yeast are done, you can carbonate the beer by adding CO2. The yeast from the last step create CO2 when they consume sugars, so you could add a little more sugar to the beer when you transfer it into bottles and let the yeast do the work (a couple more weeks). You can also use compressed CO2 to "force" carbonation into the beer if you have something that will hold the pressure (a keg and CO2 tank can carbonate in 15 minutes).
 
Malted grain is steeped with water at a controlled temperature to allow amylase enzymes to convert the starch in the grain into sugar. The liquid, called "wort" - basically a sugar/water solution, is drained out of the grain bed, while additional water is added to the top of the grain bed in order to rinse more sugar from the grain bed. After the wort is collected it is boiled to sanitize it, isomerize the hop oils, and modify/boil off chemicals that can lead to undesirable flavors in the finished beer. The wort is then cooled, yeast is added, and the yeast is allowed to ferment the sugars to alcohol and CO2 at controlled temperatures.

I'd be very interested in seeing this presentation, especially the analysis of fly sparging. Any chance you could post somewhere like Google docs, and provide a link?

Brew on :mug:
 
So I need to give a very quick and effective synopsis of the brewing process.

This is my "elevator pitch" on the brewing process that I give to culinary students:

"Brewing is the extraction of starches from grain, mostly malted barley, with water that self converts into sugars and is then separated from the grain to be boiled with hops to add bitterness, flavor and aroma to balance the malt sweetness. This is then cooled to just below room temperature, whereupon yeast is added to ferment the sugars into alcohol and CO2. Malt is 100% responsible for the color and alcohol content of beer."

That intro takes just 30 seconds to complete and sets the stage for more detail. I tend to stay away from science that a casual beer drinker wouldn't come across in most beer menus and publicity. I tend to stick to broad categories of information, like basics of pale vs. specialty malts, ale vs. lager and very, very general descriptions of hops by growing regions.

If someone asks an advanced question, I'll answer it, if it doesn't derail the conversation. I find the more casual I can keep the lecture, the more interested the class is in learning more, later.

Good luck! It's a blast to talk beer to a group of noobs!
 
The really short version: You take grains, like barley, and you grind them up into bits and dump them into some very hot water. The enzymes present in the grains will take the starches inside the grains and convert them into sugars. The process of turning the starches of the grains into sugars is called, "mashing." Once you're done mashing, then you move the liquid (which is then called "wort") into a boil kettle and boil it down, thickening it up and adding some hops during the boil to give the beer some bitterness and also to give it some nice flavors and aromas. Then you chill the wort to around room temperature and then add the yeast. Once the yeast is added then the wort is called "beer." Let the beer sit and ferment for a couple of weeks and then separate the beer from the dead yeast and then chill and carbonate for a few days and then serve.

The longer version:
Brewing yeast takes sugar and converts it into alcohol and CO2 and some other tasty flavor components. This changing of sugar to alcohol and CO2 is called "fermentation." So you need to get brewing yeast and sugar together in a water solution and blammo, you will have beer.

Grains contain starches, which can be converted into the sugar that beer yeasts love to eat (which are simple "short-chain" sugars) and also some complex long-chain sugars that the beer yeasts don't eat but still taste sweet to us. Enzymes contained inside the grains can convert those starches for you. First, you grind up the grains so that the starches inside the grains are better exposed to the enzymes. Then, you mix the grains into very warm water, at a temperature most conducive to allowing the enzymes to convert the starch into sugars. This is called, "mashing." The usual temperature range for mashing is between 148° and 156°. If you mash at the lower range, say between 148° and 150°, you'll get more short-chain sugars that are more easily fermented by the yeasts, which means your beer will have more alcohol in it and will have less sugars that won't be fermented, so your beer will taste "thin-bodied" or more watery. If you mash at the higher end of the range, say between 152° and 156°, you'll get more complex long-chain sugars which the yeasts will leave alone and thus you'll get a beer with less alcohol, but more body because of those sugars just hanging out in the beer not being converted into alcohol. The whole mashing process usually takes between 30 minutes to an hour. The pH of the mash is usually very important too. The mash pH should be between 5.1 and 5.6 and the pH affects things too, but that topic is beyond the scope of this, so let's just move on.

So after the mashing process is done, brewers often raise the temperature of the mash above 160° which kills off (or "denatures") the enzymes, and it also makes the sugary liquid (which is called "wort" at this point) a little easier flowing. So the brewer transfers the wort into a boil kettle and then runs some fresh water through the grains again just to be sure to flush out as many sugars as they can get. This rinsing of the grains is called, "sparging" and it can be done in a few different ways. One popular way of sparging is called "fly sparging" and fly sparging is adding fresh water to the top of the grain bed while the wort is being drained from the bottom of the bed at the same rate. This method kinda acts like a piston, pushing the wort from the top down through the bottom. How fast you sparge can greatly affect how much sugars you leave behind, with a slower sparge giving you a better efficiency. Opinions vary, but a good starting point for sparging is about a quart per minute, so this can take quite a while, depending on how much beer you're trying to make.

And then once all of the wort is transferred to the boil kettle, you begin to boil and once it starts boiling then you add hops at different intervals. Add hops early on in the boil and that will add bitterness to the wort, but less flavor and aroma of the hops. Add it later on in the boil and it will add less bitterness but more flavor and aroma. Boiling also reduces the water volume and thus thickens the wort up a good deal, as well as affects the flavor of the sugars in a few ways.

And then once you're done boiling then you need to chill the wort down to a temperature that the yeast will like, usually around room temperature. This chilling can be done while the wort is being transferred to a fermentation tank, via a "heat exchanger." Also, yeasts require that the wort is properly oxygenated and the boiling process removes the oxygen from the wort, so you have to get oxygen back into the wort somehow. You can pump in O2 while the wort is being transferred into the fermentation tank, or you can simply shake the wort up and the sloshing action will oxygenate the beer. Then you add the yeasts. Once the yeast is added then the wort is now deemed "beer." Keep the beer at a stable temperature and out of sunlight for a few weeks and then transfer the beer away from the dead yeast and put that beer in a new tank that you can add CO2 to which will carbonate the beer. Once the carbonation process is complete you can chill and serve.
 
"Brewing is the extraction of starches from grain, mostly malted barley, with water that self converts into sugars and is then separated from the grain to be boiled with hops to add bitterness, flavor and aroma to balance the malt sweetness. This is then cooled to just below room temperature, whereupon yeast is added to ferment the sugars into alcohol and CO2. Malt is 100% responsible for the color and alcohol content of beer."

That intro takes just 30 seconds to complete and sets the stage for more detail. I tend to stay away from science that a casual beer drinker wouldn't come across in most beer menus and publicity. I tend to stick to broad categories of information, like basics of pale vs. specialty malts, ale vs. lager and very, very general descriptions of hops by growing regions.

If someone asks an advanced question, I'll answer it, if it doesn't derail the conversation. I find the more casual I can keep the lecture, the more interested the class is in learning more, later.

Good luck! It's a blast to talk beer to a group of noobs!

Wow thanks that sounds great, I'm no good with describing my thoughts in words (hence why I'm a math major), so that helps tremendously. Obviously I love talking about making beer and had trouble focusing on the Math involved for my project;actually I realized I have 30 minutes of material none of which pertaining to math whoops
 
On a side note I will post the most interesting "discoveries" and try to keep the formulas to a minimum. For my exact brew system (cooler mash tun) I'm going to figure out the equations that will tell me how much, and how often I would need to apply say "1500W" of electric heat given different ambient temps, mash temps, mash thickness, and mash volume to keep the temperature range within plus or minus 0.5 degrees F. This is of course making the impractical assumption that the electric heat is dispersed evenly through the mash, but should provide valuable information for when I add a mash re circulation to my set up.
 
You could talk about where beer gets it's bubbles ... :)

Not many folks know that you have to add a very specific amount of sugar to the beer right before you bottle home-brewed beer to carbonate it. I'd imagine very few folks know the relationship that temperature and pressure has on carbonation (for forced carbonation) .
 
In other words how do you explain the ALL GRAIN brewing process to your friends/family/pretty girls at the bar.

I usually start by pointing out that the ALL GRAIN brewing process requires someone who is well above average in intelligence, earns a mid-six figure salary, has the physique of an underwear model, and a great sense of humor and yet is sensitive and caring.
 
I'm going to figure out the equations that will tell me how much, and how often I would need to apply say "1500W" of electric heat given different ambient temps, mash temps, mash thickness, and mash volume to keep the temperature range within plus or minus 0.5 degrees F. This is of course making the impractical assumption that the electric heat is dispersed evenly through the mash

I think "Watt Density" is the term you're looking for. You'll convert that into BTUs/ m^3 (or cm^3, if you wish). I believe the delta of a direct contact heat stick is proportional to its surface area. This is elegantly demonstrated in RIMS systems where the watt density is lowered due to the movement of wort, resulting in a faster, more even rise in temperature than direct fire with the same power.

I recently had to solve this issue for a client that was having trouble reaching mashout in a timely fashion. they used to cycle their wort through the kettle during vourloff, but once they started multiple batching, this wasn't an option. Using the steam jacket on their mashtun caused so much mixing that lauter times slowed. The solution was a tube & shell heat exchanger for the wort to flow through which was so effective that mashout was achieved in half the time of the mashtun jacket. Basically just a big 'ol steam heated RIMS tube.
 
It depends on how cute the listener is (explanation gets shorter as she gets cuter...), but I'll usually say something like this:

You make a kind of "tea" out of crushed grain (I leave the "malted" part out because it adds to confusion) and hot water to get the sugars out of the grain. Then you boil the tea and add hops so their bitterness balances out the sweetness. After the boiled liquid cools you add yeast, which will eat the sugar and poop out alcohol and CO2 and turn it into beer. It takes anywhere from a few days to a few weeks for them to finish depending on the style.

Bam. Mic (and panties) drop.
 
Well, since you're talking to calculus students, you can me a LITTLE more technical than you could with the general population.

1. Grains are seed that contain large chain carbohydrates in the form of starch. The starch molecules are much too large for the little yeasties to consume. So, several processes have to happen. First the maltster allows the seed to germinate. This unlocks the enzymes that the budding plant would need to convert those starches in the sugars it would need to grow.

2. Since we want beer instead of plants, the germination is halted and the grain is roasted. Different temps and times create different flavors.

3. The grain is then steeped at very specific temperatures. Too low, and the enzymes are not activated. Too high and the enzymes are destroyed. By adjusting time and temperature, the brewer can determine how much of the carbs are broken down into sugars that yeast can consume and turn into alcohol, and how much can not be converted that will contribute to a sweeter fuller bodied beer.

The resulting sweet mixture, is called wort.

4. This is then boiled. This accomplishes several things. It kills any microorganisms which would compete with the yeast. It also causes proteins to denature and clump together so they can be removed.

5. During the boil hops are added to provide flavor to the final beer. Two general categories of compounds are extracted from the hops. The first, Alpha acids, provide bitterness. The longer the hop is boiled, the more of these are extracted. The second are aromatic oils that give beer a number of different flavors, depending on the variety of hops. These oils, however are volatile. The longer the wort is boiled, the more of the oils evaporate. So, there is a trade off between the alpha acids and the oils. For this reason, hops are often added in stages, so that some will contribute plenty of bitterness, and others will provide more flavor. Often, hops are added long after the boil is complete to add flavors without increasing the bitterness.

6. Once the boil is complete, the wort is chilled. This helps the aforementioned proteins coagulate so they can be removed, and it brings the wort down to a temperature where the yeast will not be killed when added.

As for fermentation, most people have a general idea what that is. Any finer points would probably take more time than it's worth.
 
It depends on how cute the listener is (explanation gets shorter as she gets cuter...), but I'll usually say something like this:

You make a kind of "tea" out of crushed grain .

That's how I screwed up my first AG batch. Tea doesn't care much if the water is a little too hot. Because nobody explained the enzyme thing to me, I figured if 158 was good, 170 would be better.
 
In other words how do you explain the ALL GRAIN brewing process to your friends/family/pretty girls at the bar.

That's how I screwed up my first AG batch. Tea doesn't care much if the water is a little too hot. Because nobody explained the enzyme thing to me, I figured if 158 was good, 170 would be better.

The pretty girl probably isn't going to be going home and brewing beer based solely on the directions she got from a guy at the bar. Trying to pick up a chick by talking about brewing is bad enough...start talking about mash temperature and enzymes and you're sure to be going home alone... ;)
 
Trying to pick up a chick by talking about brewing is bad enough...start talking about mash temperature and enzymes... ;)

If I'm in a bar, it's a craft bar. If I'm talking to a chick, it's doubtful SWMBO is going to let me take her home.

That being said, if you're trying to impress somebody with your brewing skill, don't compare it to making tea.
 
If I'm in a bar, it's a craft bar. If I'm talking to a chick, it's doubtful SWMBO is going to let me take her home.

That being said, if you're trying to impress somebody with your brewing skill, don't compare it to making tea.

If I'm trying to impress someone with my brewing skill I usually just pour them a beer... ;)

If someone is just curious about the dark art of brewing beer I put it in terms they'll be able to relate to (like "make tea..."). If someone wants to learn how to brew beer on their own I talk to them about mash temperature, enzymes, and the plethora of other subtleties that the average (even craft) beer consumer couldn't care less about. You gotta know your audience.

I teach music for a living. There's a reason young musicians are more likely to encounter "Mary Had a Little Lamb" before they see Beethoven's 9th...
 
I've done this many, many times brewing in China where homebrewed beer is extremely rare. However, it's more like the 30 seconds version.

Take malted barley. Crush it. Steep it in hot water for an hour. Take out the grain and boil the liquid, adding hops during the boil. Cool down the liquid. Put it in a bucket, add brewing yeast and let it ferment for a couple weeks. Add a little bit of sugar for carbonation, bottle, and wait another couple weeks for the beer to carbonate.

You could probably cut it down to "Soak grain. Boil grain tea. Ferment grain tea. Beer," but most people appreciate at least a little bit of detail...

Interestingly, the Chinese have a long history of homebrewing various kinds of wine and liquor so most adults are actually pretty conversant in the basics of brewing; they actually tend to know a lot more about distilling than I do because distilled liquor made from various local grains - buckwheat, millet, sorghum, etc., but interestingly rarely rice - is far and away the number one tipple in China, and historically many households have made their own. Most people here are most curious about what kind of grain I use, how I cap the bottles, and why one adds hops to beer, typically in that order.
 
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