raestlyn
Member
No idea what that might do to the final beer... leave it at a higher pH? So what?
Yes, and that is easily fixed with adding Vitamin C if the pH is too high for the yeast. In small amounts it won't change the flavor of the beer.
No idea what that might do to the final beer... leave it at a higher pH? So what?
Not a nay-sayer... DO this experiment and let us know!
Just came across something to consider or put in your report for interest. From Fix's "principles of brewing science"
"[calcium ions] continue to interact with malt phosphate during wort boiling ... the primary reason that wort pH decreases in the kettle boil."
No idea what that might do to the final beer... leave it at a higher pH? So what?
There have been late addition IPA recipes on here before, where you didn't add any hops until 20 min. Sure, you needed 3 or 4 times the amount of hops to get the bitterness you needed in an IPA, but you also got massive flavor and aroma.
I'd be interested in trying this with only a 20 min boil. A nice experiment would be to make the same recipe, boil one 60 min, boil the other 20 min. If this would turn out a good product, it would make a convenient house IPA.
If I collect 13.2 gal wort @ 1.051
1 hour boil looks like this 51x7=357/5.5= 64.9 or 1.065 OG
15 min boil looks like this 51x6.2=316.2/5.5= 57.4 or 1.0574 OG
So I'll need to add just over 1# DME to the short boil
Someone please check my math.
Nothing to add, other than good luck!
I put Irish moss in the HDPE container I use for no-chills. Its equal to about 20min of utilization.... Anyway, have you thought of no-chilling this one? 170 right into an HDPE container, let it chill, then scrub with CO2? Oh man the BEER GODs are angry with this one! POL where the hell are you!!!!!!!! We need you right now!!!!Im not sure how well irish moss works in the mash.
Both hot break and cold break are complete BS. Read some threads on no-chills. Fear and hate propagated by the LHBSI really want to believe that the mash pasteurizes the wort but I'm just not 100% sure. Therefore, I think boiling for 10 minutes is kinda necessary.
And with no boil, do you think there might be problems with haze because you don't get a hot break?
And finally, I don't think your hop method will get the bitterness required. I don't know the exact minimum temp for isomerization to occur, but I believe it's in the 170s.
LA sucks, it made me lose hair, LOLgot slammed with a test in linear algebra
LA sucks, it made me lose hair, LOL
I did that with a red ale that I must have mis-measured hops with. Bitterness was almost non-existent. I did a 45 minute boil of plain water (.25 gallon or so) adding hops at the beginning, mid-way, and flame out, chilled it and added it to the keg. It completely balanced the beer about, adding bitterness and flavor.
It sucks being THAT guy... a 30yo vet in a class of 20 year old punks. I kinda want to punch them all in the junk.
hey! i'm one of those punks! mostly we mean well....
can't wait to hear about the final results!
I have seen some recipes in NB extract kits call for hop teas as well. I think these are mainly to improve hop utilization when you are doing a partial boil with a big beer, since the gravity of the wort is double your target... So if you are brewing a 1.070 beer, you need a 1.14 wort and that is terrible for hop utilization. Let me give you an example:
http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/DIPA.pdf
Brewspook, if you're still working on this and are going to boil more hops to increase the bitterness, consider pulling some of the beer itself and boiling hops in it for 15 min or so and then add it back to the batch. This will provide some acidity to minimize the chances of introducing astringency that you might get from using water alone; plus you won't be watering down your beer.
I had good success with this, but only applied it to a 1/2 batch of beer (i.e. the keg was half done and I was tired of underbittered beer). You're limited to how many IBUs you can get in there by the small volume of beer you boil, but it will work.
Couldn't you boil the beer covered or in a pressure cooker and not lose near as much alcohol? The pressure cooker could also allow for quicker isomerization with the higher temps. You could also make the boil the least vigorous as possible to minimize boil off.
Also, I believe BuzzCraft's calculations are correct on the IBU of the hop concentrate, but a thought I had was, how do they get the "Hop Shot" or concentrated bitterness to hold more IBUs than that? It seems we should be able to replicate that technique.
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