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Pretty good prices too. I see by the spec sheet they are rated 20A 240VAC by UL. Good for a 4500W element for sure. Probably close enough for a 5500W too... If I do another element, I will pick some up.
Yea, it'll be ok with 5500W but with a Sanke keg setup 4500W elements are enough. One thing about the connectors. All connections should be soldered i.e. no crimp on lug connections, IMHO.
 
This SOOOO tagged.

I really need to upgrade my "pvc caps crammed full of silicone" setup on my HLT. I mean, it works fine, but it worries me.

Plus, sooner or later I'm going to add elements to my BK, and the heatsticks will just be backups.

:rockin:
 
I've been mulling this one over and then remembered fabricating parts and designing a system for a friend. With his setup I used a special plug and outlet very similar to the ones used for home computers but with a much higher current rating.

First thing, an element connector nut was soldered in place along with a gem box and ground wire.

P-J

I trust your advice implicitly, but I'm curious about sealing within the box... those handy/gem boxes are not "weather tight"… Were there provisions to seal it off or are we not worried about water at the element contacts? Good enough with a solid ground and GFCI? Just thinking about boilover and other such accidents within the wet zone..
Thanks
 
I trust your advice implicitly, but I'm curious about sealing within the box... those handy/gem boxes are not "weather tight"… Were there provisions to seal it off or are we not worried about water at the element contacts? Good enough with a solid ground and GFCI? Just thinking about boilover and other such accidents within the wet zone..
Thanks
I had no concerns with it. I purposely left the bottom seam open enough to provide a drain area "in case". This also eliminated a risk concern I had 'if' the element gasket leaked. Overall, all is A-Ok as the whole thing is GFCI protected.

I had no concerns about boil overs. That is one of the major reasons I choose to use Auber Instruments PIDs. They have a manual mode that allows you to control the percent power delivered during a boil.

I hope this makes sense.
 
Here is what I ended up with. It's the usual 1" coupling with a cap on the end. I plan on painting it eventually. I still have a long way to go until my system is done, so I'm not in a rush.

IMG00284-20120322-1505.jpg
 
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