Electric Noob starting E-brewery. Help pls!

[stlbeer]

Def WINNING!

 

[Cacaman]

Just cut up the first keg using an angle grinder and a tube of silicone...

 

[BeerguyNC61]

Did you use the tubing to hold on to the lid?

 

[Cacaman]

Did you use the tubing to hold on to the lid?

Not at all. I just used that little piece of cardboard circle to guide me in a circle, I didn't bind it to the angle grinder with a hose clamp or anything, just used my hand (my wrist was extremely tired after this). Once I felt the lid was loose, I simply stopped grinding, gave it a slight tap, and the lid fell right in the keg. One down, one to go

 

[Cacaman]

Another important component in, my enclosure!













It's a 16x16x12 metal enclosure from pioneer breaker. Now I know a lot of people say to stay away from this site, but this is just a metal box, I don't know how anyone can counterfeit that.

I wanted a 16x16x8, but they were sold out and didn't want to wait until November for this. Bigger won't do me any harm now would it?

 

[Cacaman]

Both kegs cut now, just need to sand down the edges. I think I got a slightly larger cut from today's cut (left), but that doesn't really matter to me. Will post more pics of kegs when cleaned up well and holes, valves, tubes etc. have been made.

 

[NewBrewB]

It's a 16x16x12 metal enclosure

You will be glad for the extra workspace. Mine was upgraded to 20x20x8 and I am really glad.

 

[Cacaman]

You will be glad for the extra workspace. Mine was upgraded to 20x20x8 and I am really glad.

Hope so!

Quick question, since im pretty much replicating Kal's build, will any of these SSR's work: http://stores.ebay.com/jamesbondtb/_i.html?_nkw=40a+ssr&submit=Search&_sid=1064500270 ?
Preferably one without a heatsink, im thinking the third one on that list.


I notice on kal's site he recommends output voltage to be 90-480VAC, and the ones on that link are only 24-380VAC, will this be an issue? My heating elements are the "Camco #02963 5500W 240VAC ultra low watt density (ULWD) RIPP element".
Thanks!

 

[TrainSafe]

I don't know for sure as I haven't tried them. I do remember reading several threads where people had problems with ssr products from Ebay. They just didn't hold up.

 

[Cacaman]

In that case, I'll order them from Auber.

Also, do you all think these relays will work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30062983238...l?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=300629832383&_rdc=1

If not, will any of these work?
http://stores.ebay.com/jamesbondtb/...ubmit=Search&_fsub=2574799010&_sid=1064500270

Thanks so much!

Edit: Reason why I ask about the ones on that first link is because I thought they were a good deal and ordered them impulsively :cross:. Anyways I put the order on hold until i can confirm they work, or so that i can order the proper ones. Thanks!

 

[P-J]

Just get the right one in the first place:
Contactor, 2 pole, 30A, 120V Coil

 

[Cacaman]

Just get the right one in the first place:
Contactor, 2 pole, 30A, 120V Coil

Thanks! That was really ignorant of me

 

[Cacaman]

Can anyone say black anodized heatsink score?!

 

[NewBrewB]

That's hot....or at least it will be with some ssr action!

 

[Cacaman]

Hey guys, I've been on a temporary hiatus but I'm pleased to say that I am back in business. At this point I have all the parts needed to complete my control panel. Here are some photos of my latest progress.

Here is the top part JB welded and the screws sanded down. I just used an angle grinder instead of filing them down.

 

[stlbeer]

If you haven't drilled them yet, make sure you have clearance for the devices you plan for the two holes in the upper left hand portion of your control panel. It looks like they are very close to the hinges.

 

[Cacaman]

If you haven't drilled them yet, make sure you have clearance for the devices you plan for the two holes in the upper left hand portion of your control panel. It looks like they are very close to the hinges.

Excellent point. As a matter of fact, i was walking inside my house from drilling the holes when i read this comment. Doh! I reconnected my door and hinges, and attached the blue light and key switch. Fortunate enough, it cleared by no more than a few millimeters. Phew! Thanks for the heads up though!

 

[Keith577]

Who ever did the wiring in your breaker panel should be taken out and ???

 

[NewBrewB]

If you haven't drilled them yet, make sure you have clearance for the devices you plan for the two holes in the upper left hand portion of your control panel. It looks like they are very close to the hinges.

I guess its too late but for the sake of others who read this before drilling, it isnt just about leaving space for the hinges & rubber seal.
You also need space for the wiring, which will come straight out of the component and cant turn for at least 1/2" My door barely closes without rubbing on the wire.

 

[Cacaman]

All front plate holes have been drilled now. Here are some photos












They are less than perfect, but have been test fitted and work fine. For the right voltmeter, I didn't have to add a second slot, it fit snugly like that. That's enough work for a Friday night, now to go out and have a beer on tap

 

[Cacaman]

I've been on a small hiatus now back on track. Here is the enclosure painted with switches

 

[Cacaman]

Got a question though, will this:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=129

be able to be used as the "30A/240V DPDT or DPST relay with 120V AC coil" that kal uses in his build? Or are we looking at totally different parts?

 

[jeffmeh]

Got a question though, will this:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=129

be able to be used as the "30A/240V DPDT or DPST relay with 120V AC coil" that kal uses in his build? Or are we looking at totally different parts?

Yes indeed.

 

[Cacaman]

Ok, now this is going to sound dumb, but Kal's relay has 6 "attachment points" whereas the one i linked appears to only have 4. Here is a picture to better explain what i mean:

Am I missing something? (besides brains :cross: )

 

[jeffmeh]

Ok, now this is going to sound dumb, but Kal's relay has 6 "attachment points" whereas the one i linked appears to only have 4. Here is a picture to better explain what i mean:

Am I missing something? (besides brains :cross: )

Kal's is a double pole double throw contactor, though he is only using one throw. It likely has 8 attachment points.

The one you linked to is a double pole single throw contactor (perfectly suitable). It will have 6 attachment points, whether or not you can see them in the picture:
1) Line for H1
2) Line for H2
3) Load for H1
4) Load for H2
5) Coil for H1
6) Coil for N

 

[stlbeer]

The relay pictured on the right, the one from Auber, has coil connections on either side. You don't have arrows going to them, but put hot on one side and neutral on the other.

 

[Cacaman]

I see two at the bottom, would those be it?

 

[cank]

Nope. On the sides, here.

 

[Cacaman]

Hmmmm cank, that doesn't seem right. There's no place for the terminal to go










On the bottom though, there's a screw that opens a spot for a terminal maybe





If this is the case, now to figure out which is
1) Line for H1
2) Line for H2
3) Load for H1
4) Load for H2
5) Coil for H1 (may be interchangeable as per stlbeer)
6) Coil for N (may be interchangeable as per stlbeer)

 

[stlbeer]

Hmmmm cank, that doesn't seem right. There's no place for the terminal to go



View attachment 132626

You are looking at the coil in this picture. The shiny orange part is the coil for pulling the relay closed. There are 2 spade terminal connections there so they can be easily daisy chained together (you probably don't need that though).

If this is the case, now to figure out which is
1) Line for H1
2) Line for H2
3) Load for H1
4) Load for H2
5) Coil for H1 (may be interchangeable as per stlbeer)
6) Coil for N (may be interchangeable as per stlbeer)

On each side, where there are multiple YELLOW spade and screw connections, these are your Line and Load. Pick one side to be Line and one side to be load. Test these with your multi-meter after you have hooked up the coil connections and are able to test the relay BEFORE hooking up other wires. The relay does not care which side is line or load.

You have a multi-meter, right?

That screw on the bottom looks like its for mounting the relay to the plate.

Paul