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I have been brewing for 7-8 years now. Started extract, moved to all grain, and now am finishing my basement. What better time to build an electric setup.

I started the build in January so I am a little behind on the thread but here goes.

Build:

HLT
-15 Gallon Polar Ware
-5500w low density element
-Temp/Level Sensor
-3 piece ball valve

MT
-15 Gallon Polar Ware
-False Bottom
-Temp/Level Sensor
-3 piece ball valve

BK
-15 Gallon Polar Ware
-5500w low density element
-Hop Basket
-Bazooka tube
-Temp/Level Sensor
-3 piece ball valve


Control Panel (www.thebrewbox.us)
-Built by a friend of mine. Software controls the heaters, and pumps, reads in the level and temp sensors, it also does all the common brew day math like calculating strike water temperature and volume.

Fermenters
2x SS Brewtech 14 gallon conical fermenters w/ FTSS control (www.ssbrewtech.com)

Accessories:
2x Chugger Pumps
1x Plate Chiller
2x 3-way ball valves to allow 2 pumps to recirculate hlt, mt, and bk
xx - Quick disconnect fittings
7ft Condensation Hood
700 CFM Fan w/ speed control

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Tearing down the basement, framing, and installing the ventilation hood on the ceiling. Bought a large fan off of amazon and ran it out the old window (needed replaced anyway). I can access the fan from the outside of the house by pulling the plexiglass out and replace the fan when the time comes.

Banner (the 3 month old dog) in all his glory is below the exhaust fan.

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I ran 3 ball valve faucets 24" apart coming out of the wall so each kettle has its own water source. I ran an additional water source to the sink as well as plate chiller. All other plumbing is hidden in the cabinets.

The brew box, plumbing, and 3-way ball valves save me from switch hosing from port to port during brew day.

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Thanks! It wasn't as bad as you might think. The fermenters were the most expensive part. I have about $5800 tied up in it including cabinets, plumbing, tile, and fermenters. Tax return plus a little extra built me my dream brewery.

It's possible just have to be willing to do all the labor yourself. I also went with cheaper pots and punched holes myself etc. I didn't see a need for blichman since I only needed 1 hole per kettle and didn't need anything too fancy just wanted it to look clean and be easy to clean.
 
That is beautiful, but those stickers on the pots make me so angry what a pita to remove. Can't wait for more updates!
I spent 30 min trying to get one off. Couldn't take it and went to the store and bought goo-gone. Came right off. Wasn't worried about the chemicals since it's the exterior of the kettle.
 
Thanks Kal. It should. The code is setup for kettle dimension inputs so any upgrade is a key stroke away. Appreciate the feedback. One day I'll make a run for yours :)
 
The taps are fed from behind the wall. I have an old fridge with 4 kegs and 12' lines running thru the wall to the taps. They are insulated and do a relatively good job staying cold. I built that closet strictly to hold beer and misc supplies. It paid off.
 
There is not a set date for the BrewBox to go live on kickstarter but the website he created is http://thebrewbox.us/

Yea was drooling over that all yesterday. It looks to be along the lines of the direction I want to go. Will be getting into a new place next fall and want to switch to all electric.

Will keep an eye on his site and probably fund kickstarter when it goes live
 
There are detailed guides on the website on how the plumbing is done. Essentially there are 3 water outlets - one for each kettle. Allowing each kettle to have its own water source.

Stage 1:
A)Pump 1: The plumbing flows from the HLT down to the pump and recirculated back to the HLT to keep a constant temp.
B) Pump 2: The Wort pump then pumps water from the MT thru a immersion coil in the HLT and back into the MT keeping the temp at a constant desired mash tun. Once temp is reached grains are added (The Brew box does all brew day calculations for you to keep temps).

Stage 2:
A) Pump 1: Once the sacification rest is complete the MT liquid is then transferred to the BT at a desired pump speed. I currently use 55% meaning 55% power is transferred to the pump.
B) Pump 2: The HLT water runs back thru the immersion coil to the MT to sparge.

This is all by switching two 3-way ball valves. There is no more connect this hose to this output/input. From start to finish there is one hose from HLT to MT. The rest of the plumbing is static and I hid mine under the cabinets. This can also be done with a work bench approach shown on the website as well.

If anyone is in the Illinois Area we are still looking for a couple more Beta Testers. Send me a PM.

More Details:

With the three way valves in the mash position the system will recirculate the water in the Hot Liquor Tank (HLT) and recirculate the water in the Mash Tun through the HLT's heat exchanger thus heating up the Mash Tun (AKA RIMS System). The Brew BOX automatically heats the HLT to precisely control the temperature in the Mash Tun. Once the temperature is reached the The Brew BOX will turn off the pumps and allow you to add the grains. After the grains are added the pumps are restarted and The Brew BOX will automatically take you through your whole Mash schedule.
Once the Mash is complete it is now time for the sparge. The Brew BOX will automatically start heating the HLT to the specified mashout temperature. When the temperature is reached the The Brew BOX will ask you to turn the 3 way valves to the sparge position. After the valves are in the sparge position The Brew BOX will turn on the pumps to a low speed (Yes, The Brew BOX has speed control of the pumps!) to start the sparge. Once the Brew Tank has reached its specified volume The Brew BOX automatically turns off both pumps and the HLT heater. The Brew BOX also has a safety feature that will turn off the pumps or the heaters if the volume in the tank gets too low. Now its time to Boil.
 
I am working on plans for a basement brewery as well. What material did you use for the back splash on the wall behind your kegs? I want to make sure whatever I place back there lasts awhile.
 
What material did you use for the back splash on the wall behind your kegs? I want to make sure whatever I place back there lasts awhile.

Based on the fact that he used spacers, I would say he used porcelain or ceramic tiles, similar to what you'd see in many kitchens or bathrooms (on the wall or floor).

FWIW, porcelain is a denser, less porous and harder option that offers greater stain and water resistance than ceramic. While I've always gone with quality porcelain, on a wall like this you're not going to get much of anything touching the tile. Any water that hits tile will be minimal and will run right off. If this was a shower then definitely go with a better porcelain tile. Be aware that there are varying grades or qualities of both (it's not entirely black and white). Some of the $1/sq foot stuff you can get at the big box stores is much softer/more porous - look at the hardness rating. YMMV.

Kal
 
Wow, this is very nice. I wish i could get something like that going in my basement.
But i know exactly what would happen.
I would scrimp and save for five years to come up with the cash.
Finally get it built after another year.
Brew one batch, and the literal second that first batch hits the fermenter i will be looking at a work transfer...
 
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