Efficiency, first time using hydrometer

[Shawnstve]

So, I did some calculations with an online calculator. I only got about 55-60% efficiency. I’m using a brew in a bag method, doing a 1 gallon brew. Started with 1.5 gallons originally, ended up with only 0.8 gallons in the fermenter. 1.8 total lbs of grain. Target OG on the online calculator for 0.8 gallons at 75% was 1.056 and I ended up at 1.046. I had pretty decent thermometer in there, nothing crazy high end. But I kept the mash as close to 153 (the recommended by the recipe) while mashing as I could. It droped to 149 twice and I re-heated it back up to 155. My setup is just a beginner setup. Anyway, I used my own mill to crush, it’s not the best quality. A Victoria mill. The grain is slightly un even. I just crushed some more for another brew I’m gonna try tomorrow, so I’ll add pics of how this is crushing. There are some flaked barley in the mix so keep that in mind. I’ll also add pics of my grinder. Should I grind this finer? How can I improve my efficiency? I have done one other brew before, but never had a hydrometer. I didn’t know I was missing target efficiency so badly! Lol!

 

[camonick]

For BIAB you can crush it much finer than what you have in your picture. There are several whole kernels as well as some that are only split in thirds or halves. If you can adjust it to grind/crush it finer, you will see much better efficiencies. You can mill it to nearly flour for BIAB. I have a cereal killer mill and crush my grain very fine and get mash efficiencies in the mid to high 80% range.

 

[Shawnstve]

Good to know! Thanks! So I’ll crush finer, I thought there was a point that it could be too fine. I’ll adjust the grinder to as fine as it let’s me.

 

[camonick]

If you’re using a high quality bag, a very fine crush shouldn’t be a problem. Don’t worry about the husks being intact either... that doesn’t matter with BIAB and the myth about tannins from shredded husks isn’t true. What kind of bag are you using?

 

[Shawnstve]

Here is my bag. It has a super fine mesh, I had trouble draining it. It held the liquid a little.
https://amzn.to/2Z64USm

 

[camonick]

Sorry, but that link doesn’t work for me. I use a Wilser bag and don’t have trouble draining. Most guys just hoist the bag out of the kettle and let it drain during the boil. Since you’re only doing 1 gallon batches, you could put your bag in one of these https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Kitchen-Supply-Expandable-Vegetables/dp/B01MQCHQHD over your kettle to let it drain. Personally, I squeeze mine to get the majority of the wort out.

 

[Mac MacFarlane]

I dont know if you have but I would check your hyrometer zero, i did my first biab was was around 65% efficiency. A few days later I check my hyrometer and it was reading 6 points low, which bought my OG from 1.042 to 1.048.

 

[rburrelli]

What temperature did you take your hydrometer reading at? If It was an elevated temp you need to do a correction for your hydrometer. There are calculators online.

 

[Calder]

You need to crush finer. I have a Victoria mill and regularly get 85 to 90% efficiency. I have removed the hand crank and just use a drill to crush my grain. The plates are so close to each other that I cannot turn the mill by hand (I would be able to turn the mill if I had the handle, but with no handle it will not turn).

149 F is an OK mash temperature. You will get a more fermentable wort with a lower temp. I like drier beers and tend to mash between 148 and 152 F.

An advantage to larger batches (aside from getting more beer for the effort put in), is that mash temps are more stable due to the larger mass in the mash.