eBIAB Controller--Wort Hog vs Electric Brewing Supply

[matt_m]

I currently own an older 110V Wort Hog EBC-SV controller I've been using with a RIMS tube. I believe I have figured out how to convert it over to 220V replacing a relay and obviously the cord and receptacle. However I've also been looking at the newer EBC-130 panel that uses the EZBoil controller and Electric Brewing Supply's eBIAB panel. The Electric Brewing Supply panel has a lot of nice safety features like the e-stop and indicator lights. Opinions on either?

 

[processhead]

One question come to mind. If you convert to 220 volt operation, will the heating element you are presently using be running on 220 volts? Is it even rated for 220 volts?
It would be good to know a little more information on what your goals and direction are with this conversion.

 

[matt_m]

I currently use it with a 1500W 110v RIMS tube. Will be using it with a 5500W 220 element in a kettle for eBIAB. But I listed the complete RIMS system for sale so maybe I’ve made up my mind.

 

[Ahks]

I love my ezboil. That dial to adjust time/temp/boil power% is just such a quality of life improvement over little buttons I can't go back.

 

[Bobby_M]

Add the auber cube to the mix.

 

[matt_m]

Doing a little studying, unless I'm missing something, I think I could swap out the controller in my existing EBC-SV and get the functionality of the EBC-130 or Cube. Really the only panel I think I'd look at upgrading to is the Electric Brewing Supply, and only for the safety features like lockout and e-stop.

Further, ultimately I think I really have my eyes on a more automated approach, only because it interests me, and any upgrade at this time might not make sense if ultimately I'm going to end up with something RaspberryPi based.

 

[Ahks]

Doing a little studying, unless I'm missing something, I think I could swap out the controller in my existing EBC-SV and get the functionality of the EBC-130 or Cube. Really the only panel I think I'd look at upgrading to is the Electric Brewing Supply, and only for the safety features like lockout and e-stop.

Given what controller the SV uses, yes. You could probably swap it for a Ezboil.

Further, ultimately I think I really have my eyes on a more automated approach, only because it interests me, and any upgrade at this time might not make sense if ultimately I'm going to end up with something RaspberryPi based.

I'm in the same nerdy boat. Have the parts in a list on Amazon and a spare pi...
If I go with something raspberry pi based, I'd probably keep the ezboil just for how much easier it is to adjust the boil. I do 2.5 gallons and my 2200watt element gets to a boil at 100% then backed off to 90%, then about half way in I drop it down to 80%.

 

[matt_m]

Yeah, the thought crossed my mind that something like the Electric Brewing panel would be a basis for a more automated panel as well. You'd still want the ability to manually kill the element or pump, etc.

I have 2 of the BrewPi controllers, one for each of my fermenters, and once their new release becomes stable I can probably go to just one. Wouldn't take many parts or much wiring to replace the PID with one of those.

 

[matt_m]

Ah, what the hell...just ordered the 30A Electric Brewing Supply Panel. Its only money.

 

[bendog15]

Just curious. Is there a way to set the wort hog controller so it will come on automatically? It would be nice to wake up and have strike water ready.

 

[Ahks]

Just curious. Is there a way to set the wort hog controller so it will come on automatically? It would be nice to wake up and have strike water ready.

I don't think so... No. The brain of these units, whether it's a PID or an Ezboil, power up to a ready state, not a running state.

 

[matt_m]

Even if the EZ Boil can do something like that, really you'd be programming it to hold a low temp for X hours then raise the temp to strike temp, vs programming it to come at say 9AM.

Now if you wanted to tinker you *could* interrupt the control side of the contactor circuit with a light timer, home automation module, or something like that. Turn the PID on, set to your desired strike temp, set the light timer to turn on at your desired time. It will try to heat all night but with the contactor interrupted it won't until the prescribed time.

I also am confident that you could do this with BrewPi since that's one of the primary reasons I use them on my fermenters--setting up a fermentation temperature schedule by date/time.

 

[Ahks]

Neat ideas