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eBIAB controller - Need for a plug?

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Douglefish

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I'm moving my brewery to my basement and building out a basic controller (Spa Panel + EZ Boil) for a 4500W element to boil 12 or so gallons in BIAB style. Since it's all going to be fixed and there is only the need for a single element, is there a need to use plugs in the control panel or could I just wire it in directly so that my cord goes from the panel is connected to the pot via tri-clamp.
 
You don't have to use any plugs if you don't want.

I find it very convenient to be able to disconnect everything from the kettle for cleaning, but other than that I didn't use plugs.
 
I would recommend an L6-30 plug on the element, and an L6-30 receptacle on the cord from the control box, at the element end. Cleaning the kettle with the cord hanging from it can be a pain. The element cord can be hardwired to the control panel.

You should also have a plug on the power feed cord that matches a wall mounted receptacle. Hard wiring the control panel to the power feed makes the control panel part of the structure wiring, as so the panel and wiring now need to meet all applicable electrical codes. Hard wiring the power feed cord at the control panel is fine.

I would also recommend that your control panel contain a mechanical switch or contactor that will allow you to completely disconnect the input power from the output. The switch/contactor needs to interrupt both hots of the power feed. SSR's leak current, and since you will only switch one hot with the SSR, you will have a 120V potential on the element when the SSR is off. SSR's also usually fail in the "on" state. Should your SSR fail in the "on" mode, you are looking a unplugging at 240V circuit drawing about 23A. You would probably get some arcing that will really get your attention, and maybe burn damage to the plug/receptacle.

Brew on :mug:
 
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