AnthonyD
Well-Known Member
This should be a sticky.
No, with this method your boil pot IS your sparge pot. You just transfer the bag over. It does help to have a colander and rinse the gains with some of the sparge water before you transfer to the sparge-boil pot.
You may wish to go back and read over the process again...it looks like you're a little confused on the sparge...everything works in just these two pots. Let me know if you have any more questions!
Has anyone dont any first wort hopping with this method? I know that most people do the FWH in the sparge stage. But this method spared differently then the classic mash tun setup, and is much quicker. I don't know if the sparge time will be enough for the FWH. I thought about even mashing the hops maybe halfway through when the pH rises. I am making an Indian Porter this weekend and want a full hop flavor. I really want to try this, but not waste my late addition hops.
Anyone want to weigh in?
Why not just throw the hops in the bag with the grain. They will go thru the mash and the sparge. That should be enough to extract whatever you'd want to get from the hops.
DEATHBREWER.. I didn't read the entire thread so if this has been asked I apologize. Wouldn't the addition of a simple mash tun make this so much easier even than what you are doing? I have used your method for a brew, and then used a tun for two brews this week . Your method made my favorite of my beers so far so thank you for that. But I must admit a simple mash tun made these two a bit easier.
DEATHBREWER.. I didn't read the entire thread so if this has been asked I apologize. Wouldn't the addition of a simple mash tun make this so much easier even than what you are doing? I have used your method for a brew, and then used a tun for two brews this week . Your method made my favorite of my beers so far so thank you for that. But I must admit a simple mash tun made these two a bit easier.
What are the details of your mash ton? Is it a cooler? Do you still use a bag or does the mash ton have some other way to separate the grain from the wort? What do you see as the advantage of using a mash ton?
The reason I'm asking is cause I have a simple cooler and maybe I'll do the same.
Understood.... As for why I like it better, it just seemed easier, I only did death brewers method once and would do it again with no qualms. Maybe I just like using all the stuff lol...The whole point is for people that don't have a proper mash tun/lauter tun. If you have a mash tun, then this is only another method at your disposal, but for people who don't quite understand a mash tun, can't build one, or just don't have the money/space to get one.
As for your beers, you said you like this method more? Care to elaborate?
As for hops in the mash... I thought that the different addition times were to get different types of utilization? First for bittering, second for flavour, third for aroma. Seems to me that if you put the bittering in with the grain they aren't present for the right amount of time. And you would still have to add flavouring and aroma hops all the same. Not even sure it would work with the temp difference between mash and boil temps.
Somebody feel free to correct me, or point out any false assumptions I may have made. Since I really still know nothing
I kept the burner on while I mashed. It didn't burn the bag. However, I do keep it on low, and only keep the pot on the corner of the burner.
Where were you taking the temperature? I take mine on the top, but I don't have the burner on. You are probably getting a hotter wort on the bottom compared to the top. Also, remember, there are grains resting on the bottom of that pot, which is much hotter than the wort is inside of it. I'm sure the beer will come out fine, but if you are trying to get certain characteristics out of your mash, you might end up mashing part of it a little higher.
I bet you wont even notice it though for a regular beer. Maybe in a pilsner or belgain ale. It's good to know the bag doesn't melt though.
First off let me say Thank You for the well laid out tutorials of both the partial mash and all grain. I read the entire partial mash first and then the all grain, after that I felt confident enough to do my first brew using all grain.
I used Biermunchers Blue Moon Clone. Everything for the most part seemed to go fine. I was 2° low on both my mash and sparge temp, but for a first timer I'm plenty pleased with that. Since my sparge temp was a little lower I let it go for 15 minutes instead of 10. After that, to my surprise, my stove then gave me enough power to do a full boil in one pot. So far everything is looking great.
Cold break took longer than I was hoping (45-60 min) due to having a very shallow kitchen sink. When the temp was down to 80° I pulled a sample to test my OG. It was 1.054 and I was looking for 1.038. After filling the carboy I was well short of my intended liquid as well. I topped up with water to my desired level and re measured my gravity, it was 1.044. I forget to whirlpool my wort to send any trub to the bottom. The sample I measured was very heavy in suspended sediment.
I'm think I know where I made some mistakes but just making sure. Should I have let my test sample sit before taking the OG. If so, how much of an effect can particulate matter have on my gravity readings? Secondly, any thoughts onto why I would have been close to a half gallon low on my final amount of liquid and what can be done to reduce the amount of trub?
I'm not too concerned as it is fermenting away very nicely. I'll be able to get some efficiency numbers when I get back home tomorrow. Just looking for ways to improve my techique.
Weak. How did you burn it? Flame coming up the side?
So why isn't it along the Easy Stovetop Partial Mash thread, in the clipped threads?
I think an all round will be good (love a good DB tutorial) - but I bet I will still look at the pics in this one and the other for reference.
Random question DB? I notice you use promash... is that the only software you use? Have a favorite recommendation for a poor new-to-brew-software brewer?
It was once. *shrug* It's in my sig, so people seem to find it.
I plan to do an all-around tutorial soon, so I may revamp these guys as well, or they may become obsolete.
I think an all round will be good (love a good DB tutorial) - but I bet I will still look at the pics in this one and the other for reference.
Random question DB? I notice you use promash... is that the only software you use? Have a favorite recommendation for a poor new-to-brew-software brewer?
DB, may I suggest you leave out the partial mash/all grain labels, and just going with mashing. I've seen so many people hung up on the difference between the two, when THERE ISN"T ANY. Partial simply uses less and makes up with it via extract. As far as your two tutorials go, they really are the same, and have the same inquiries.
Kudos on the efforts, I showed this method to a friend and he is buying a bag asap. It's like the Mr. Beer of mashing, but it makes good beer. You are getting people into it by starting small and simple.
First of all, when I read this first I thought, "No way is it this simple. If it's this easy, why is there such a big deal about going all grain?!" Honestly, my incredulity kept me from doing it more than my fear. I just tried it last night and it went great, as expected.
My primary question has to do with mash and sparge length. Is there a problem with mashing for longer than 60 minutes? How about a longer sparge? Will these increase efficiency or, perhaps, extract tannins or other Bad Things? I (inadvertently) mashed for 90 minutes and sparged from 20 minutes last night. I'm not too worried, more curious for the future. Thanks!
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