Easy Steam Infusion Mash System

[RadicalEd]

Hmmm, drill motors don't like extended use, but lusing one at such a slow rpm may work...I wouldn't want to risk the drill on it, though.

I think your biggest challenge will be finding a motor at the right RPM with enough torque. It would probably be easiest to find a higher RPM motor and use a pulley/gear system to increase the torque and decrease the RPM.

What is your design for the mixing spoon/arm/blade? A symmetrical on either side of the crankshaft will likely be the easiest to balance and mount.

 

[mr x]

I was going to use a basic farm equipment type aluminum fan blade on a ss shaft. I can run as many blades as I want on the shaft. pretty easy to set up.

You are right - the problem is finding a low RPM motor with ooph. My Craftsman 14.4 has become expendable now that the batteries are shot, so I may play with it a bit, see what I can come up with.

 

[brewman !]

Windshield wiper motors.

 

[MadWeezel]

find an old garage door opener motor

 

[TheFlyingBeer]

I second the windshield wiper motors, check ebay motors for some cheapies.

 

[mr x]

Windshield wiper motors sound like a very good choice. Anybody know if they run at 6V for low and 12V for high, and if so, is this usually done internally?

 

[WortMonger]

This guy is very nice and very informative. I talked to him a couple of years ago about his fermenter.http://www.luco.co.za/llewsbrewery/

This is what he uses for his mash tun setup.

And here is his HLT setup.

And what got me interested to talk to him....

Hope this helps a little.

 

[mr x]

Looks perfect. Thanks.

 

[WortMonger]

You're welcome, I really hope it helps you out. He is a great guy with great ideas. He lives in South Africa, would love to hear him talk.

 

[Hopleaf]

So I'm planning a gott cooler HLT (5 gal) and picnic cooler mash tun (15 gal). The water out of my tap comes out at 140F.

I'd planned to put my strike water at 140 directly in my mash tun and my sparge water into the HLT. This is where I planned to use steam to raise them to the appropriate temps.

Does this seem like a reasonable plan? How big a of a pressure cooker do I need? I had expected to get one as big as I could find.

I suppose I could heat the sparge water from 140 in my kettle and have the steam dedicated to the mash tun, since that's where the temp control really needs to happen.. right?

Any help greatly appreciated, Thanks

 

[mr x]

In my experience, what limits your steam is the heat source - the size of the pressure cooker is secondary to that (assuming you are doing 5-10 gallon brews). I'm somewhat happy with my 9 quart pressure cooker, but I'm convinced it would work much better off gas than a 1500 watt element.

 

[FlyGuy]

In my experience, what limits your steam is the heat source - the size of the pressure cooker is secondary to that (assuming you are doing 5-10 gallon brews). I'm somewhat happy with my 9 quart pressure cooker, but I'm convinced it would work much better off gas than a 1500 watt element.

Yes, I agree. I tried my pressure cooker on my propane burner and it went like nuts. But if you have a good heat source (e.g., propane burner from a turkey fryer), then you will definitely appreciate a larger pressure cooker. If I were to upgrade my little one, I would definitely go with a 10 qt minimum, and probably a 20 qt model.

Hopleaf, do you really plan to use hot water straight from the tap? I always thought drinking from your hot water tap was a no-no -- something to do with the heat dissolving nasties from your water lines IIRC. Further, if your water is treated with chlorine/chloramine, that needs to be removed before you brew (although I suppose you could just add a campden tablet to remove it, especially if your water is good tasting otherwise).

 

[Hopleaf]

Yes, I agree. I tried my pressure cooker on my propane burner and it went like nuts. But if you have a good heat source (e.g., propane burner from a turkey fryer), then you will definitely appreciate a larger pressure cooker. If I were to upgrade my little one, I would definitely go with a 10 qt minimum, and probably a 20 qt model.

Hopleaf, do you really plan to use hot water straight from the tap? I always thought drinking from your hot water tap was a no-no -- something to do with the heat dissolving nasties from your water lines IIRC. Further, if your water is treated with chlorine/chloramine, that needs to be removed before you brew (although I suppose you could just add a campden tablet to remove it, especially if your water is good tasting otherwise).

I'm going to use my propane burner and see if I can find a 20 qt cooker if I can find one a little cheaper.

As far as the pipes, I never really thought about it but then again my pipes are all about 1 year old. I think my water utility was only built in the last 10 years. The thinking being the lead solder from older homes, right? So my pipes *should* be fine but that assumes my builder or someone didn't screw something up. Guess I'll stick to cold tap.

 

[brewman !]

There are two ways to get your steam. Make it as you need it or use the stored up steam.

With a 9Q pressure cooker, you don't have much stored, so you pretty much have to have a big burner. With a 20Q pressure cooker you can store up enough steam to do most of the mash pretty easily. I'd go with a bigger pressure cooker before I put it on a flame.

I'd call the manufacturer before I put the pressure cooker on a powerful propane burner.

 

[mr x]

I don't see too much of a problem with the pressure cooker I am using. I looked through the manual, and there were no warnings about excessive heat input or gas burner warnings. It still has the safety valves to relieve pressure.

I'm not talking about using a massive burner, just something better than electric. A quick trial run will get you in the ballpark of the heat you will want to input without getting excessive.

 

[casper0074]

As I read through this thread, my mind is racing with possibilities!
One interesting thought is (as mentioned earlier) using a counterflow chiller with steam as the heat source in a HERMS system... the steam would sterilize the chiller! What a wonderful benefit!

 

[brewman !]

I don't see too much of a problem with the pressure cooker I am using. I looked through the manual, and there were no warnings about excessive heat input or gas burner warnings. It still has the safety valves to relieve pressure.

I'm not talking about using a massive burner, just something better than electric. A quick trial run will get you in the ballpark of the heat you will want to input without getting excessive.

The problem is that the bottom of the pressure cookers if flat and aluminum. Aluminum loses strength fast as it gets hot. One hot spot in the wrong place could cause its failure. I'd email the manufacturer and ask.

 

[mr x]

The manufacturer says follow the instructions. The instructions say gas is OK, just don't have flames coming up the sides. So as long as you aren't using an insane heat source, you shouldn't get and hot spots as long as you don't boil the thing dry.

 

[knarfks]

double post

 

[knarfks]

I found an ancient 16 quart pressure cooker that works awesome. I have used it for hefes step mashing from 111 to 155, only took maybe 10-15 minutes, and I was using a gas stove.

 

[Hopleaf]

Picked up an 8 quart pressure cooker tonight at Wal-Mart. Opened it up when I got home and it was very used... bottom had tons of scorch and scratch marks. Looks like someone bought it, did a ton of canning and returned it. Sigh, back in the car I go.

 

[WortMonger]

Ahhh, wonderful Wally World. Isn't there a place named U.S.A., China or something that they get all of their Made In The U.S.A. stuff from, lol?

 

[MadWeezel]

Ahhh, wonderful Wally World. Isn't there a place named U.S.A., China or something that they get all of their Made In The U.S.A. stuff from, lol?

Yes U.S.A., China its just north of hong kong, China.

 

[kvh]

This seems like a great idea, and I have intentions to build one.

However, I have a question.

In my mind, when I pictured this working, I imagined the steam-release valve somehow connected to the hose and therefore the MLT. This way you would build up pressure in the cooker (as they are intended), and then open the valve to stir and heat the mash.

It looks instead like the valve is always open, and you control the steam by turning on/off the cooker. Is this the case?

thx.
kvh.

 

[FlyGuy]

In my mind, when I pictured this working, I imagined the steam-release valve somehow connected to the hose and therefore the MLT. This way you would build up pressure in the cooker (as they are intended), and then open the valve to stir and heat the mash.

It looks instead like the valve is always open, and you control the steam by turning on/off the cooker. Is this the case?

No, I don't always leave the valve open. You do need it to control the flow of steam.

The way you envisioned it working is correct. Fire up the pressure cooker, let it get to full temp/pressure, vent out the air, then close the valve and keep it hot until you need it. Then open the valve and push steam into the MLT as required.

Cheers!

 

[kvh]

No, I don't always leave the valve open. You do need it to control the flow of steam.

The way you envisioned it working is correct. Fire up the pressure cooker, let it get to full temp/pressure, vent out the air, then close the valve and keep it hot until you need it. Then open the valve and push steam into the MLT as required.

Cheers!

So the MIP angle valve stops the pressure - I guess I should have realized since it has the word valve in it. I have a little more research to do I suppose.

thanks!

kvh.

 

[Hopleaf]

Here's a question, do you use steam to raise the temp of the water from tap temp up to the needed temps? Or just use steam to control the temp once it's reached those temperatures?

 

[FlyGuy]

In theory, you could use stem to heat your mash and sparge water, but it wouldn't be as efficient as direct heat. The steam injection is most useful for raising mash temps, especially in something like a cooler MLT that can't be directly heated.

 

[kvh]

Sorry to keep pestering you -

Do you (or does anyone) have a direct link to that valve you use? (the 1/4 x 1/8 angle MIP steam valve). I checked the watts website, mcmaster, and google in general.

Usually I'm good at tracking parts down - failing miserably at this one though.
thanks for your help.
kvh.

 

[mr x]

If you have problems getting what you want, I can supply you with some good swagelok parts (see my earlier post with pic links) for a good price.