Dumb n00b question...

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DublinOhioBrewer

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Okay, so my cream ale has been in the fermenter for about 48 hours and it's bubbling and whistling like crazy, how do I know when it's time to bottle? Do I go by time or do I go by some other characteristic? I've read that when it stops bubbling in my airlock to give it 48 hours then test the gravity and then test it again couple days in a row and if it doesn't change its ready to bottle but I was wondering if anyone has a more Surefire way of knowing when the time has come? Sorry for the dumb question
 
No dumb questions...some might disagree but oh well you can't learn if you don't ask!

Unfortunately, the only way to tell if the beer is done fermenting is to have 3 consistent hydrometer readings. The airlock is unfortunately not an indication of fermentation being complete. There was a YouTube video being passed around here that showed an airlock bubbling with nothing in the fermentor.

General consensus is to start checking at day 10...I usually wait 14 days but that's just the way I do things. If you're at OG great...if not wait 3 days and then check again...remember the yeast are living organisms and are going to go at their own pace.

Once you've hit FG cold crash and bottle you should still have plenty of yeast in solution to carb you up!

:mug:
 
Your plan is exactly okay. Personally, I watch my beer to see when the yeast sinks to the bottom of my fermentor, but taking the measurements like you you suggest is a great way to know if your beer is finished. Give your beer a week or so after it’s finished to allow the yeast to clean up.
 
The airlock is not a reliable way of knowing when your fermentation is complete. The only way of knowing is by taking a gravity reading. A good time to take a gravity reading is when you see the airlock slowing down or stopping activity. Then you take another gravity reading two days later. If gravity remains the same, then you are ready to bottle.

Cold crashing is just getting the yeast to settle at the bottom. Frankly, I don't see the point with most styles if you're bottling. You want some yeast in suspension so that bottle conditioning occurs as fast as possible. When you bottle condition, you will always have sediment when you refrigerate your beer (which is part of the conditioning process) so there is no point in cold crashing unless you're kegging.
 
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The airlock is not a reliable way of knowing when your fermentation is complete. The only way of knowing is by taking a gravity reading. A good time to take a gravity reading is when you see the airlock slowing down or stopping activity. Then you take another gravity reading two days later. If gravity remains the same, then you are ready to bottle.

Cold crashing is just getting the yeast to settle at the bottom. Frankly, I don't see the point with most styles if you're bottling. You want some yeast in suspension so that bottle conditioning occurs as fast as possible. When you bottle condition, you will always have sediment when you refrigerate your beer (which is part of the conditioning process) so there is no point in cold crashing unless you're kegging.
I'm getting ready to bottle my first batch this week, tested it today, and it tested and tasted great! It was much more clear today, I'm 11 days into my dry hop stage and the hop is still in suspension, my question is, have you used Biofine Clear? I was going to add a few drops tomorrow. I've attached pic, I'm proud of myself so far!
 
I have never used that product, and I don't take any measures to clarify my beer because I bottle condition everything and I prefer having some yeast and haziness. Everything will settle to the bottom when you chill it, and the colder the better. Clear bottled homebrew is all about the pour hahaha

Adding some Irish moss or whirfloc tab will help clarification, and using a high flocculating yeast is preferred for clearer beer styles.
 
I find that 3 weeks or so in primary is sufficient time before bottling or kegging. Of course there are some styles that require more time

Anything shorter than 3 weeks may be too early to package, but this is in Central Texas and what works for me
 
As for "when is my beer done fermenting?", the only SURE way to know within a minimum amount of time is to use a hydrometer reading, as some have stated here. If one is going to continue brewing, having a hydrometer is a must. Here's what I do:

Let beer ferment a minimum of 10 days --- regardless of what IS or IS NOT happening in the airlock --- and remove a sample of the beer for a hydrometer reading. I do this by pushing a 12" length of rigid 1/4" plastic tube onto the end of a plastic 100ml syringe so it's tight, then sanitize it. Remove the airlock, spray a little sanitizer around the grommet and insert the tube through the grommet hole and draw off an 80-90ml sample. Sometimes I will put a very thin film of liquid soap on the gasket in the syringe to help it move smoothly since nothing from the syringe is going back into the fermenter; you could use veg. oil if you prefer. Prior to this, I've already placed the hydrometer in its clear plastic storage tube into a slightly larger graduated cylinder, just to hold everything upright. With the 80-90ml of beer in the syringe plus that in the 12" tube, it is enough to fill my hydrometer tube to slightly overflowing; the graduated cylinder will catch any overflow. You want your hydrometer free-floating --- i.e., not touching the bottom and/or sides of the tube --- or you can get a false reading. Don't ask how I know this. If there is a little foam obscuring the reading marks, take the corner of a paper towel and soak it up. Slightly tilting the tube so as to center the shaft of the hydrometer in the beer will insure the truest reading.

Write the number down. A few days later, repeat process. If those 2 consecutive readings are the same (which is often the case for the average ale), the beer is done fermenting and you can package. If they are not, let it sit a couple more days and repeat process until you get 2 consecutive readings that are the same. Seems like a lot of samples, but they do not go to waste --- I consume them to test the progress/taste of the beer.
 
I used a whirlfloc tablet in my boil. My Fermonster has a spigot so i can take a sample without opening the fermenter i assume?
 
I used a whirlfloc tablet in my boil. My Fermonster has a spigot so i can take a sample without opening the fermenter i assume?

Yes, you should be able to take samples, just be aware that it's best to not dump the beer back into the fermentor after the reading. I don't have a spigot, so I use a siphon, thief, baster, etc.
 
Okay, so my cream ale has been in the fermenter for about 48 hours and it's bubbling and whistling like crazy, how do I know when it's time to bottle? Do I go by time or do I go by some other characteristic? I've read that when it stops bubbling in my airlock to give it 48 hours then test the gravity and then test it again couple days in a row and if it doesn't change its ready to bottle but I was wondering if anyone has a more Surefire way of knowing when the time has come? Sorry for the dumb question
I usually give my cream ale about 10 days. Test it for the next 2-3. Tend to finish in the 1.010-1.012 range. My last batch is resting in a corny now. Started at 1.048, finished at 1.011. 12 days. Used Denny's Favorite WY1450. It's not a good floccer, but it is a very clean fermentation. I ferment at 64°F. When done, I keg and let it sit in my fridge for a couple weeks. It falls clear without any gel or other fining. When bottle conditioning, I let it carb for 10-14 days in the mid 60's, then sit in the fridge for a couple weeks to fall clear. Take it easy on the pour and enjoy a clean lawn mower (or beach) beer!
 
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