Dry Hopping Question Black IPA, CDA

[OCBrewin]

Hey all,

So I made my attempt at an big Black IPA (recipe below) and I've been thinkingabout how to dry hop. What would be the differences if I split up the 2oz into two, 1oz additions?

I was thinking 1oz Zythos for 5 days, then replace that with the 1oz cascade for another5 days. Any differences to doing this as opposed to both at the same time for 5 days? I was thinking that more of the individual characteristics of each hop (I know that Zythos is a blend...) might shine through??? Who knows, just thought that I would throw it out there

Thanks!

 

[OCBrewin]

Oh, here is the recipe:

I was going for a maybe a slightly more malty profile than similar beers of this style, and was hoping to get a little more mouth feel to counter the low mash temp - hence my crystal choices and amounts, as well as the aromatic and flaked grains.

Grain:
12# US 2-row
1.5# Munich
8oz Wheat Malt
8oz American Crystal 120L
8oz American Cystal 40L
8oz Special Carafa III (added to last 20 min of mash)
6oz Flaked Barley
4oz Flaked Oats
2oz Aromatic Malt
1.5# Raw Sucrose (added to primary at high krausen)

Mashed @ ~150min for ~80min

Hops:
1oz Citra @ First Wort Hop
0.5oz Zythos @ 20 min
0.5oz Cascade @ 20 min
0.5oz Zythos @ 10 min
0.5oz Cascade @ 10 min
0.5oz Zythos @ 5 min
0.5oz Cascade @ 5 min
0.5oz Zythos @ 0 min
0.5oz Cascade @ 0 min
1oz Zythos @ Dry Hop 5 Days
1oz Cascade Dry Hop 5 Days

Yeast:

pure oxygen for 60 seconds
Safale US-05 Ferment in low-mid 60's*
*Note - my big carboy was busy, and I didn't want a blowoff situation, so I split the batch between (2) 5 gallon carboys and added a pack to each of them. So each 2.5+ gallons got a full pack of US-05 - than may be over pitching, but I'm not too worried...


Stats:

efficiency = crappy, but not what I was attempting with this one. I have found my sources of inefficiency since, I think...

7.2 Gal pre boil volume
5.5 Gal post boil volume
1hr boil

SRM: 41 (very dark, black)
IBU: 85 (bitter - IPA)

OG: 1.065 (1.075+ effective after sucrose addition)
Est. FG: 1.021, Actual FG @ 7days = 1.014

Sitting in Secondary (actually, just combined two primaries together @ day 7 - see above). I was planning on starting my dry hopping at day 14 and going for 5-7 days or so.

Please let me know your thoughts.

 

[bottlebomber]

I don't think that 2 ounces of dry hops is nearly enough. I used 4 ounces of cascade pellets for my last one and it turned out great.

 

[OCBrewin]

Thanks bomber - I wasn't sure, I've only dry hopped 2-3 times and just haven't gotten a hang of it yet. Was that a 5gal batch?

I tasted the sample and the malts and bitterness are there, but just not much in way of aroma.

So mayber 2oz of each? That brings me back to my original question: two seperate dry hopping 'events' of2oz @ 5 days each, or one with all 4oz at once @ 5 days.

 

[barleyhole]

I've used 2oz of cone hops (home grown zeus and cascade) in a Black IPA before with very good effect. If you are using cone hops, then a minimum of 2oz is fine, but with pellet hops, I'd imagine you would want more. Of course with cone hops you can use more, but you have to consider having adequate space in the fermenter as well as how much beer you want to lose due to absorption. But the last point may not be a consideration if adding more hops puts the taste over the top.

If you have the time, I might try the two separate additions. The lower hop amounts may help to facilitate transfer of the hop aroma into the beer.

 

[bottlebomber]

If you have the time, I might try the two separate additions. The lower hop amounts may help to facilitate transfer of the hop aroma into the beer.

Why do you say this? I've heard of professional breweries doing multiple dry hoppings but I've never understood a reason for it. In my mind, getting as much hops as possible into the beer as quick as possible and getting it in bottles. I'd like to know more about the science.

I always dry hop in buckets, in paint strainer bags which I wring out with sanitized hands upon removal. The beer loss is very little, and I have yet to encounter a sanitation problem from doing this.

 

[barleyhole]

In my experience, it would seem that if you do not load tons of hops into the fermenter, or you do it in batches, more hops is in contact with the beer. Is this really any different than just doing 1 massive dry hop and letting them sit on the beer for a longer period of time? Not sure. The only ill effect from that I could see from that is imparting some undesirable grassiness.

 

[OCBrewin]

Ok - thanks for all of the feedback. I guess that I'm just going to go with the 2oz of each variety at a time for 5-7 days each. I'm in no rush at the moment, as the keezer still has two taps-a-flowin...

What is the general consensus on when to start the dry hop. I'm just about done with the primary (day 9 today) and I was thinkin of throwing 2oz of zythos in tonight, and then remove, and throw in 2oz of cascades in on friday or saturday for 5 or so days before racking to the keg.

Should I dry hop the keg too?

 

[cyclonite]

Ok - thanks for all of the feedback. I guess that I'm just going to go with the 2oz of each variety at a time for 5-7 days each. I'm in no rush at the moment, as the keezer still has two taps-a-flowin...

What is the general consensus on when to start the dry hop. I'm just about done with the primary (day 9 today) and I was thinkin of throwing 2oz of zythos in tonight, and then remove, and throw in 2oz of cascades in on friday or saturday for 5 or so days before racking to the keg.

Should I dry hop the keg too?

If you are kegging, I would say throw all the dry hops in a bag and drop into the keg, chill and leave it until you kick the keg. This is BY FAR the best way I have found to dry hop. You don't get any grassy off flavors while it is chilled (at least I've had one dry hopped for almost 3 months and it was still great). If you are worried the keg will last too long (really? ;-)), then tie the bag to a piece of dental floss, suspend in the keg and leave the floss hanging out so you can grab it later. This also allows you to replenish the dry hops for more flavor later.

Don't have this option if bottling, but for kegging I now always do this. You get a constant fresh hop aroma and flavor from the keg this way.

 

[OCBrewin]

Thanks cyclonite. That sounds like a plan. Would you dry hop at room temp for a period before chilling, or chill immediately after putting the hops in?

 

[cyclonite]

Thanks cyclonite. That sounds like a plan. Would you dry hop at room temp for a period before chilling, or chill immediately after putting the hops in?

I've done both and have not noticed a difference, so I would say just go ahead and chill and carb up.

Cheers!

 

[bottlebomber]

I dry hop while cold crashing all the time. It works nicely.

 

[OCBrewin]

Bringing back an old thread, but this one turned out so good. One of the best I've ever brewed! Here she is:

 

[Eliterunner1]

Wow that looks great! Im kind of new to the whole CDA scene but I love em. I've had Boneyards Armored Fist and Deschutes Hop in the Dark. I think this will be next on my agenda!

 

[DonMagee]

Did you end up doing the 4oz dry hop split into 2 separate dry hops? Or did you just throw it all in?

 

[OCBrewin]

Ended up doing 4oz, 2 of each. Note that the grain bill might seem a little overly complicated, but that stems from what I had on hand. It could prob be simplified - the important bit is the 8oz of special carafa III @ the last 20 min of the mash. This gives the intense dark color with almost no roastiness. There was just enough for some balance, but almost imperceptible. Just a solid IPA with base, some Munich, crystal, and flaked wheat will be good.

The hops used give a complex fruity nose and flavor, without being just citrusy. Very good beer that is going back into the lineup.