Dry Hopping a big beer

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rwberne

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I am trying my first big beer, a Christmas Beer called "Sinking Feeling". OG is over 1.1, ends up at 1.028 or so, with 11.3% ABV. I am doing a 3 gallon batch, and using two packs of Wyeast American Ale Yeast. The recipe also calls for dry-hopping, which I have never done. My plan is to aerate the wort very well before and after pitching, pitch the two packets of yeast, and keep in 5 gallon primary for 2 weeks. I thought I would throw the dry hops (Kent Goldings) into my secondary, rack on top of them and then let it sit for 4 or 5 weeks. What I'm unsure of is:

1) Will the dry hops settle out sufficiently (between time in secondary and brief time in bottling bucket) or should I use a hop bag (I'm using pellets - Kent Golding)?

2) Will I need to pitch additional yeast into bottling bucket, or will my normal amount of priming sugar (1 oz per gal) work?

Advice is welcomed!!!
 
I am trying my first big beer, a Christmas Beer called "Sinking Feeling". OG is over 1.1, ends up at 1.028 or so, with 11.3% ABV. I am doing a 3 gallon batch, and using two packs of Wyeast American Ale Yeast. The recipe also calls for dry-hopping, which I have never done. My plan is to aerate the wort very well before and after pitching, pitch the two packets of yeast, and keep in 5 gallon primary for 2 weeks. I thought I would throw the dry hops (Kent Goldings) into my secondary, rack on top of them and then let it sit for 4 or 5 weeks. What I'm unsure of is:

1) Will the dry hops settle out sufficiently (between time in secondary and brief time in bottling bucket) or should I use a hop bag (I'm using pellets - Kent Golding)?

2) Will I need to pitch additional yeast into bottling bucket, or will my normal amount of priming sugar (1 oz per gal) work?

Advice is welcomed!!!

First off, 4-5 weeks for a dry hop sounds like I long time. I've never gone more than 10 days.

But, for your questions:

1) Yes, your hops will settle out enough in secondary, but you could use a hope bag if you wish

2) Sounds like at ~11%, your original yeast may have exceeded it's alcohol tolerance, so you'll likely need some more yeast at bottling; and yes, your usual priming amount will work.
 
I am trying my first big beer, a Christmas Beer called "Sinking Feeling". OG is over 1.1, ends up at 1.028 or so, with 11.3% ABV. I am doing a 3 gallon batch, and using two packs of Wyeast American Ale Yeast. The recipe also calls for dry-hopping, which I have never done. My plan is to aerate the wort very well before and after pitching, pitch the two packets of yeast, and keep in 5 gallon primary for 2 weeks. I thought I would throw the dry hops (Kent Goldings) into my secondary, rack on top of them and then let it sit for 4 or 5 weeks. What I'm unsure of is:

1) Will the dry hops settle out sufficiently (between time in secondary and brief time in bottling bucket) or should I use a hop bag (I'm using pellets - Kent Golding)?

2) Will I need to pitch additional yeast into bottling bucket, or will my normal amount of priming sugar (1 oz per gal) work?

Advice is welcomed!!!

I did a pale ale recently that I dry hopped and then ran out of time to do anything with, for about a month. After being in the bottle for 5 weeks it still has a weird funkiness to it that I attribute to the extended dry hopping. Lots of people report a grassy taste from beers that have been dry hopped for too long, I can kind of see that with my beer. Dry hop for about a week, that will give you a good amount of aroma from the hops. A bag will help isolate the sediment but I'd anticipate that the pellets would settle out pretty well.
 
I agree with the other posters. I'm drinking an IPA right now that was dry hopped for 2 weeks and it was too long - slight funky/grassy flavor. 7-10 days max. Let your beer clear/condition in the secondary for a while then dry hop about a week before kegging/bottling.
 
Thanks for the quick replies! In looking back at my recipe, it does say 7 days for the dry hopping, so that leads to another (forgive me if this is a foolish one) question:

If I intend to have the beer sit in secondary for 4 weeks or more, and want to only dry hop it for 1 week, do I put the hops when first racking to the secondary then re-rack into another fermenter (a tertiary?), or do I just drop the hops in 1 week before bottling?
 
Thanks for the quick replies! In looking back at my recipe, it does say 7 days for the dry hopping, so that leads to another (forgive me if this is a foolish one) question:

If I intend to have the beer sit in secondary for 4 weeks or more, and want to only dry hop it for 1 week, do I put the hops when first racking to the secondary then re-rack into another fermenter (a tertiary?), or do I just drop the hops in 1 week before bottling?

Either way would work - if it were me, I'd just toss the hops in the secondary a week or so before bottling...
 
I tried using a hop bag for dry hops but when I went to rack it always moved the bag and filled my precious clear beer with hop schwag. So now I toss the pellets in and let them settle out which they do very nicely in 7-10 days.
 
I tried using a hop bag for dry hops but when I went to rack it always moved the bag and filled my precious clear beer with hop schwag. So now I toss the pellets in and let them settle out which they do very nicely in 7-10 days.
This is my method, as well. Just toss the pellets in and wait a week or so. Just to make sure, I also attach a sanitized extra fine nylon bag to the end of my autosiphon. Any remaining hop particles typically get filtered out by that.
 
This is my method, as well. Just toss the pellets in and wait a week or so. Just to make sure, I also attach a sanitized extra fine nylon bag to the end of my autosiphon. Any remaining hop particles typically get filtered out by that.

I have a method that takes care of that without any type of filter.
I prop my carboy up in the back with my wing capper. Then I insert the racking tube in one motion all the way to the bottom in the front. I am careful not to move the tube at anytime after that. When you start the siphon it pulls a small bit of trub from around the end of the tube creating a void where only beer flows through. I end up with almost nothing in my bottling bucket.
 
I have a method that takes care of that without any type of filter.
I prop my carboy up in the back with my wing capper. Then I insert the racking tube in one motion all the way to the bottom in the front. I am careful not to move the tube at anytime after that. When you start the siphon it pulls a small bit of trub from around the end of the tube creating a void where only beer flows through. I end up with almost nothing in my bottling bucket.
Cool, I'll have to give that a try. It doesn't pull out too much yeast and trub?
 
Great ideas guys. I will wait til last week in secondary, toss the pellets in (I assume no need to sanitize them) and then at bottling time I will try the nylon bag filter. The other method sounds cool - but I fear I'd jiggle something and end up with hops in bottling bucket. This will be one potent brew!
 
Are you bottling or kegging?

I worry about whether a 1.100 beer will be anywhere near ready/mature enough to drink in time for Christmas.
 
I am bottling, not kegging. I will try a taste at Christmas, but I realize this one might not be ready for months. Might actually be NEXT Christmas's beer!
 
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