Drilling Stainless Steel Fermenter

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scurry64

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I'm trying to drill through the lid of my Ss Brewtech 7 gallon fermenter lid in order to install the pressure transfer fitting. My little Chicago Power Tools cordless drill isn't getting the job done. Neither is my 50 year old corded Black and Decker drill.

I'm okay with buying a new drill, but I'd like some recommendations. Which drill should I buy for this job?
 
I'd look into the bit before the drill. Try a new one. Anything small just to get you started, then a stepped one after that.

Example of stepped:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-C...Set-5-Piece-with-Storage-Case-33148/302972677
I'm using the 42mm hole saw the Ss Brewtech sells.
Screenshot_20201229-105014_Chrome.jpg
 
What do you mean by not getting it done? Will it not spin the bit?

If the bits a spinnin it ain't the drill.
I meant to say that the center hole drilled through the lid without much difficulty. The 42mm hole saw, however, scratched the surface and made a couple of small holes, but won't cut all the through. I can't say if it's binding, or if my drill battery pooped out before cutting all the way through. The old Black wand Decker definitely binded and refused to cut anymore.
 
Agreed, that bit you pictured should do the job as well, push enough to cut but not so hard to stall out. Oil does wonders. Turn slowly, don't run at a high speed.

It's possible you have an issue w/ your drill(s) but try the above to be sure.
 
Damn that is one nasty looking cutter. The brutality of driving that thing through a kettle wall would tingle my giblets o_O

Cheers!

I've done three holes with it, two in 25 gauge (0.5mm 0.020") 304 which went through like a hot knife through butter and one in 17 gauge (1.4mm 0.056") 304 which jammed once, but luckily didn't tear anything. I don't know if it is rougher or gentler than a stepped bit, but it certainly cuts quickly.

In aluminium sheet, it just glides through. Haven't tried it on mild steel.
 
I'm using the 42mm hole saw the Ss Brewtech sells.View attachment 712137
I think that is the right way to go. the step drills are ok for plastic and wood. for SS ???? use oil, most of these drills are from poor grade from china. just my opinion but your SS needs a clean cut with Carbide cutting edge. Carbide (good for stainless) Why take the chance on your equipotent. The fact that the manufacture of your equipment sells it should be a plus. A friend with a drill press would be helpful good luck :bigmug:

Well I see you had success I should of read down before reply but good job and great advice from other members .
 
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the step drills are ok for plastic and wood.

I've drilled at least a half dozen various sized holes in SS pots and lids over the last few years with mine, it keeps on cutting. Clean edges too. Has been completely worth what little I paid for it.

It might not be ideal for the job, but I'm not a machine shop and it's been great so far for home garage jobs.
 
Well I see you had success I should of read down before reply but good job and great advice from other members .
I completely agree. I got great advice. I would have mucked it up without everyone's help. I am very grateful 🙏.

Now, I need to learn how to do a pressurized transfer from the Ss Brewtech Brew Bucket to a keg. Can anyone refer me to a tutorial or video? The Ss Brewtech pressurized transfer kit includes a 1/2" barb to 1/2" NPT that has me flummoxed. I have no idea what to do with that thing.
 
I've drilled at least a half dozen various sized holes in SS pots and lids over the last few years with mine, it keeps on cutting. Clean edges too. Has been completely worth what little I paid for it.

It might not be ideal for the job, but I'm not a machine shop and it's been great so far for home garage jobs.

I had a slightly different experience. I wanted to switch my lid mounted chiller coil on a Ss Brewtech Chronical to a tank mounted configuration. I set-punched for a pilot hole, then step drilled for the weldless attachment of the coil to the inside of the fermenter.

All went well with the pilot hole, but I couldn't find the hole saw I'd purchased from SSBT, so I defaulted to a step drill bit (Dewalt $20 item). Unfortunately I couldn't find my cutting oil either. About 30 seconds into the second step the 304 stainless took on an ominous red glow. It wasn't radioactive but it sure was hot.

Eventually after about half an hour of starting, stopping, and starting again I was able to complete the two holes and got the coil installed after deburring with a Dremel and emery paper. Leak checked good, but it was a female kitty to get drilled.

Of course, when I was putting my tools away I found the SSBT drill bit.

Brooo Brother
 
I completely agree. I got great advice. I would have mucked it up without everyone's help. I am very grateful 🙏.

Now, I need to learn how to do a pressurized transfer from the Ss Brewtech Brew Bucket to a keg. Can anyone refer me to a tutorial or video? The Ss Brewtech pressurized transfer kit includes a 1/2" barb to 1/2" NPT that has me flummoxed. I have no idea what to do with that thing.

Looks like a very clean install of that 1.5" TC weldless bulkhead. I'm curious if anyone knows how well a seal like that holds up under pressure, say 15~25 psig. I've been wanting to mount a TC port on top of an old Cornelius keg but don't know whether it would be gas tight, or if I should just have a fabricator TIG weld a fitting. Not wanting to spend big $$$ on the project, but don't want to destroy an otherwise good keg either.

Sorry for the thread drift.

Brooo Brother
 
About 30 seconds into the second step the 304 stainless took on an ominous red glow. It wasn't radioactive but it sure was hot.

Yikes. I'm guessing you were spinning pretty fast. When I use mine I'm at perhaps a couple revs per second. I have "curls" of metal coming up.

It's a drill bit, not a grinding wheel!
 
I don't have sound at the computer I'm posting from, and haven't listened to this video / can't comment on anything he is saying. But give it a quick look for the right speed to be using when drilling holes into pots and lids. You should not have anything glowing red. If you do this speed, with a sharp bit, and a little oil to reduce friction and pull some heat both, you shouldn't have any problems. And when I say you I mean anyone, no one in specific.

Jump to the 4:30 - 4:40 time range.

 
Looks like a very clean install of that 1.5" TC weldless bulkhead. I'm curious if anyone knows how well a seal like that holds up under pressure, say 15~25 psig. I've been wanting to mount a TC port on top of an old Cornelius keg but don't know whether it would be gas tight, or if I should just have a fabricator TIG weld a fitting. Not wanting to spend big $$$ on the project, but don't want to destroy an otherwise good keg either.

Sorry for the thread drift.

Brooo Brother

The 1.5" version I have has a single flat seal that is 3/16" wide. The one from SS Brewtech has a groove with a o-ring. Both of them are installed using a socket or wrench on the inside nut, but gripping the outside half using a TC clamp and a screwdriver or rod through the clamp's finger thing. I have noticed that if you over-tighten the flat seal, it can creep out from between the fitting and the wall. The o-ring with the groove may avoid that.

The SS Brewtech site has a 2.5psi PRV on the pressurized transfer fitting that is used with their fitting, that's probably a conservative number given the barb connections and the silicone transfer hose.

Can you get it to be gas-tight with either seal type at 15-25psi, I personally wouldn't trust my version to hold up to that sort of pressure. You'll pay $24 or more for one of these fittings and a 304SS welded ferrule is between $2 and $3, so take that into account when considering the cost of getting it TIG welded and knowing you have properly melted metal holding the pressure back and not a rubber o-ring.
 
Yikes. I'm guessing you were spinning pretty fast. When I use mine I'm at perhaps a couple revs per second. I have "curls" of metal coming up.

It's a drill bit, not a grinding wheel!

Didn't really think I was spinning that fast, but it was a variable speed battery powered hand drill, so not really strong and difficult to gauge and maintain a fixed speed. I thought it would be a quick two holes drilled and be done. Should've gotten out the 3/4" corded impact drill. And looked harder for the special bit. And cutting oil. I know better, but you know, human nature.

Brooo Brother
 
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