Doubling Down: SS Brewtech Conical + FTSS + Glycol Power Pack

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Recently got my SS Glycol Chiller and got it up and running on two 7-Gallon Chronicals. It seems to be running nicely but I'm very new to the technology and not as savvy as some in this forum.

To those who own the SS Glycol Chiller, what temp fluctuations are you seeing around your set temp? I have my hysteresis (d) set at 1ºF around either side of my desired temp and a 5 minute delay (PT). I'm still getting pretty big fluctuations. For example, if I have a set temp at 67ºF, it will warm to 68ºF, the glycol chiller will then kick-in and drop the temp sometimes to 64.5-65.0ºF!?!? Is this normal fluctuation or can I get it tighter? I've already made sure my temp probe is fully placed in the front (not top) thermowell of my chronical. My ambient temp is 70ºF FWIW. Also, what would you say a normal cycling is? I'm trying to gauge if my system is running too much...

Finally, anyone else having massive condensation issues on the tubing while cold-crashing? Any recommendation on insulation and will the insulation prevent condensation or merely hide it from view?
 
I run the same chiller before SS sourced it on two 14 gallon SS Brewtech fermenters simultaneously. In the beginning I noticed the same thing. There are a couple of things you can try. The first thing I did was reverse the in/out connections on the coil (This is assuming you are using the Master series). Another thing you can do is raise the temperature of the glycol. If both of your fermenters are fermenting similar beers try raising the glycol to 40 or 45 degrees. This should get you closer to less than 2 degree swing.

Finally for the condensation I went to Lowes and bought the cheap pipe insulation and used that. It eliminated 99% of the condensation (doesn't just hide it). Prior to using the insulation I had puddles of water on the basement floor. See my previous post with pictures. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7625110&postcount=188
 
dshepard said:
I run the same chiller before SS sourced it on two 14 gallon SS Brewtech fermenters simultaneously. In the beginning I noticed the same thing. There are a couple of things you can try. The first thing I did was reverse the in/out connections on the coil (This is assuming you are using the Master series). Another thing you can do is raise the temperature of the glycol. If both of your fermenters are fermenting similar beers try raising the glycol to 40 or 45 degrees. This should get you closer to less than 2 degree swing.

Finally for the condensation I went to Lowes and bought the cheap pipe insulation and used that. It eliminated 99% of the condensation (doesn't just hide it). Prior to using the insulation I had puddles of water on the basement floor. See my previous post with pictures. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7625110&postcount=188
Click to expand...

Thanks! I don't have the master series – have 7G chronicals with FTSS lids. How do you raise the temp? It only allows me to raise the temp to 31ºF and SS sent minimal paperwork with the unit.
 
Gustatorian said:
Thanks! I don't have the master series – have 7G chronicals with FTSS lids. How do you raise the temp? It only allows me to raise the temp to 31ºF and SS sent minimal paperwork with the unit.
Click to expand...

See attached document. I believe I adjusted C2 to 45. This is the limit which I believe is currently set at 31 (it has been a while since I adjusted mine)

View attachment Glycol Chiller Thermostat manual.pdf
 
Actually figured it out without the password, thanks!

Did anyone receive any supplemental info with their SS Glycol Chiller? I'm looking for more specs on the how the actual machine works.
 
Thanks for this thread Mfabe and for all the replies.
After spending 50-60 bucks a ferment session on ice then trying to use a mini fridge and 5 gallon keg as water bath I found a micro matic power pack on CL and got it.
The unit I got is the 11.5 gallon 125 foot run. (MMPP4301)
I rewired the existing pump and use a stc1000 on it so far working well. I am going to be cold crashing in a few more days.

after this batch I think I am going to build a table over top of it for the conical to sit on during fermentation and transfer

2016-09-11 15.54.52 (Large).jpg
 
For those of you that use the glycol chiller with multiple fermenters, how do you do it? Do you use solenoid valves for each fermenter? If so, does the pump in your chiller run all the time?
 
SOPiiAC said:
For those of you that use the glycol chiller with multiple fermenters, how do you do it? Do you use solenoid valves for each fermenter? If so, does the pump in your chiller run all the time?
Click to expand...

The one SS sells on their site has room for multiple pumps to fit inside the glycol reservoir (up to 4). No solenoid valves needed since the pumps for the FTSS are used to pump the glycol to each individual conical.
 
SOPiiAC said:
For those of you that use the glycol chiller with multiple fermenters, how do you do it? Do you use solenoid valves for each fermenter? If so, does the pump in your chiller run all the time?
Click to expand...

With my DIY glycol chiller I use cheap chinese solenoid valves (~$20 a piece) and a BCS with a single pump. The pump does not run all the time, it has a set point to activate the chiller and a bypass solenoid valve for the water loop. I've been trying to get around to doing a write up, if you have any questions ask and I can help.

P&ID of current operation from the BCS is below. (note Ferm #1 has a set point of 67°F, has finished fermentation and is being dry hopped....due to some limitations I haven't fixed the set point shows up as blank during heating. I have the heater on this conical unplugged because I didn't think I would need it in this 90°F weather Cooling just overshot by about 1/2°F)

Capture.JPG


Untitled.png
 
jddevinn said:
With my DIY glycol chiller I use cheap chinese solenoid valves (~$20 a piece) and a BCS with a single pump. The pump does not run all the time, it has a set point to activate the chiller and a bypass solenoid valve for the water loop. I've been trying to get around to doing a write up, if you have any questions ask and I can help.
Click to expand...

Thank you! Could you please explain the setup to get the pump to activate every time one of the solenoid valves activates? I'm having a tough time wrapping my head around this.
 
The BCS I use for controls is basically a limited PLC that is aimed at brewing. I have a "module" for each fermenter and the glycol reserve. For each fermenter there is a set point and (2) hysteresis points, I have them set so at -1°F from set the heater turns on and +1°F from set the solenoid valve opens, the glycol reserve is set with a hysteresis of +10°F. Outside of the set points there is ladder logic that says if any solenoid valve is open turn the pump on.

If you were doing this with individual temp controllers I'd wire the controllers direct to the low voltage valves and at the same time to a shared relay for the pump. Since the relay is shared any time a solenoid valve opens the relay would activate.
 
I've never used a brewpi before. The BCS is currently controlling heating/cooling of 3 fermenters and the reserve tank. There is enough expandability that whenever I do upsize from my 10 gallon electric system I should have enough capacity in the BCS to do full automation. I'm sure the BCS is a bit to a lot more expensive.

If it's helpful I could draw out a quick wiring diagram of the BCS configured system.

These are the ball valves I found for cheap, they work great so far. If i had to do this again, to save money, I would hardwire almost everything instead of using quick disconnects.
 
Sure, I've been meaning to document this build for months. Give me a couple days and I'll put together a build article with a BOM and wiring diagrams, it seems more and more people are going with these type of control systems nowadays!!
 
jddevinn said:
I've never used a brewpi before. The BCS is currently controlling heating/cooling of 3 fermenters and the reserve tank. There is enough expandability that whenever I do upsize from my 10 gallon electric system I should have enough capacity in the BCS to do full automation. I'm sure the BCS is a bit to a lot more expensive.

If it's helpful I could draw out a quick wiring diagram of the BCS configured system.

These are the ball valves I found for cheap, they work great so far. If i had to do this again, to save money, I would hardwire almost everything instead of using quick disconnects.
Click to expand...

Please, a wiring diagram would be very helpful. Thanks so much for your replies.
 
Finally had the time to do a batch this weekend and use the new Chronical and chiller. Man is it great, was 100 in the garage at one point and it is staying spot on. Used an automotive grade silicone tubing for glycol as it does not touch food products. Insulated and no condensation so far. Thanks for everyone's help!

IMG_1512.JPG


IMG_1513.JPG


IMG_1529.JPG
 
jddevinn said:
If you already have the BCS it's definitely better!! I'll get y'all a wiring diagram but it may not be until monday.
Click to expand...

I'll still get yall a wiring diagram, right now I got swamped at work yesterday and am heading out of town for a few days in a couple minutes.

Basics are:


120V power basically connects in a NEMA twist lock with one line going to the breaker, then to the keyed switch. The DIN receptacles, the 12V DC power converter and the hot side of the SSRs all need 120V power.

The BCS and the modem will then plug into the 120V receptacles.

BCS output signal of ~5V DC can actuate the SSR for the A/C and pump directly. 120V out for the A/C and pump are wired to 120V twist locks.

BCS output signal of ~5V DC will not actuate the valves directly so we run the output to the 12V DC relay board. The 12V DC signal from the board then runs to XLR connectors. The XLR connector is wired to the valves.

Relay board we power off the 12V power converter.

To add heat I used reptile wrap on the conicals. The 5V DC output from the BCS runs to a XLR connector to a mini panel that has 120V power and SSRs near the conicals. I added the heat after the panel was laid out the SSRs could be added to the panel and have straight 120V out.





I know, I know not too helpful.....I want to start publishing some of this build stuff, I'll try to get an actual drawing this week.
 
I just added two 7 gallons to my 14 gallon. I went with the standard temp controllers and heater combos. I have a brew pi and a few others that I may play with over the winter. I have a 50a back to back brewing panel from the electric brewery that I am seriously thinking of rebuilding to BCS but I need to do more reading. The post above makes sense to me after building my panel from the kit.
 
I want to redo my hot side to BCS but collecting sanitary butterfly valves at reasonable prices is a slow going process!
 
I ran into an issue recently so just thought I would warn everyone... I purchased a set of the extensions from SS for the chiller coil since I sometimes do 6-8 gallon batches. I put everything together and ran the pump for a bit and everything looked good to go. I found out two days after I brewed that there was glycol leaking into my beer. It turns out the extension was not threaded all the way down. When I put the coil and extensions together they were tight but I later noticed that I had a very very tiny gap between the o-ring. I only noticed cause I could actually see the wort back up into the line when the pump stopped running.

Long story short, SS sent me new extensions right away but I still lost all the wort/ ingredients and a gallon of glycol. Probably $100 down the drain. Soooo if you get a set of these extensions test them thoroughly before you end up like me !

The chiller does work excellent though!

Anyone running a brite tank yet ?
 
I ordered some extension tubes form my 1/2 barrel, so I can do similar quantities. But I haven't pulled the trigger, as I have concerns about leaking also. Sorry to hear that. I may just scrap the idea of partial batches, it's not worth potentially losing a beer over. I have been temped to pull the trigger on the brite tank. According to SSBT they have sold many, so it would be nice to see someone post a review.
 
jddevinn said:
I'll still get yall a wiring diagram, right now I got swamped at work yesterday and am heading out of town for a few days in a couple minutes.

Basics are:

Click to expand...

SOPiiAC said:
Please, a wiring diagram would be very helpful. Thanks so much for your replies.
Click to expand...

JohnnyBe said:
Jason,

I wouldn't mind a wiring diagram since I may go that route over the SS FTSS's
Click to expand...

I've gotten swamped elsewhere but am still planning on getting some of these project plans published. A preliminary wiring drawing is in the PDF below. I plan on clearing this up and creating a BOM and walkthrough. Let me know if you have any questions or if anything could be clearer and I'll incorporate the changes into the final drawing/instructions.


http://baddecisionsbrew.com/wp-cont...ntrol-Panel-BadDecicsionsBrew-Preliminary.pdf
 
Dcmpres said:
I ordered some extension tubes form my 1/2 barrel, so I can do similar quantities. But I haven't pulled the trigger, as I have concerns about leaking also. Sorry to hear that. I may just scrap the idea of partial batches, it's not worth potentially losing a beer over. I have been temped to pull the trigger on the brite tank. According to SSBT they have sold many, so it would be nice to see someone post a review.
Click to expand...

Have you thought about side mounting the chiller coils? That way they can reach smaller batches.
 
Mint! For those interested....a mobile dolly or a rather useful apparatus for the glycol chiller specified in this thread. I recently ordered one using a $10.00 off online coupon. Northern Tool has a couple dollars off right now on these so it makes it a better deal yet. There is also a couple online coupons to use to sweeten the deal. Unfortunately, the online price was discounted further recently since I ordered mine and I am not sure if the 10.00 off coupon will still work since it edged away from the 50.00 requirement. Their system allowed me to use the coupon at 49.99 which is unusual for deals like this....they generally force you to find an add on. The brick and mortar store is a dollar cheaper than online price right now supposedly, if you have one nearby. In any case, this cart is not unreasonably priced compared to the competition.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...mQuW9ruJwLYfciySYdLcDMhL0wgqEozEHsaAvgh8P8HAQ
 
jddevinn said:
I've gotten swamped elsewhere but am still planning on getting some of these project plans published. A preliminary wiring drawing is in the PDF below. I plan on clearing this up and creating a BOM and walkthrough. Let me know if you have any questions or if anything could be clearer and I'll incorporate the changes into the final drawing/instructions.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot! This will take me a bit to sort out but I'm sure will be helpful. I look forward to your walk through. Could you please give a heads up here when you post it?
 
SOPiiAC said:
Thanks a lot! This will take me a bit to sort out but I'm sure will be helpful. I look forward to your walk through. Could you please give a heads up here when you post it?
Click to expand...

Will do, I'm sorting through a bunch of my project builds but am going to do this one first.
 
Jason thanks for the schematic layout. Are you heating yours as well? If so are you using a heat mat wrap?
 
JohnnyBe said:
Jason thanks for the schematic layout. Are you heating yours as well? If so are you using a heat mat wrap?
Click to expand...

No problem Johnny..

Yes I am heating as well.

I just reviewed the PDF and the page titles that I used in Visio didn't transfer well, if you look at the "bookmarks" you'll see the pages are labeled as to what the components on each page do. I'll need to update this to be more clear. (still working on formatting here :tank:)

On the heating page (3) of the XLR outputs powered with ~5v from the BCS are for heating. I have a small separate panel that isn't shown (I need to add) that sits behind the ferementers. This panel simply has a single 120V input, breaker, and (3) SSR's operated by the (3) ~5V singles. I really need to clean this panel up and then take pictures.

The relays are connected to reptail heating wrap http://www.bigappleherp.com/Flex-Watt-Heat-Tape?sc=2&category=14 This works good to maintain temperatures and VERY SLOWLY raise the temperature.
 
I am surprised to see that tape work. I tried that when I first had my brew master (before they came out with the heat option) and I could never get one large enough to sustain temps much less raise them in my garage. I am not at home but from memory there was a very small vertical distance between say the tops of the legs and the bottom of the handles where I could wrap a heater all the way around and keep it in contact with the barrel portion of say 6".

I actually went to home depot and bought a pipe heater product, cut open the thermostat and removed it and used a controller to measure the temps and turn on and off the Pipe heater. I just used foil tape to apply it to the barrel. Messy but it worked well till I got the heater, now I just use that.
 

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