Doubling Down: SS Brewtech Conical + FTSS + Glycol Power Pack

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Lol thanks. That's what I'll tell my wife.

I just checked SS website and it says the chiller is out of stock. I hope I ordered before they ran out yesterday! :(

Edit : just got an email back from them saying I got the last one from the preorders! Sweet
 
Anyone that has good tip for cooling hose couplings? In stead of going trough the trouble of fixating the hoses on the chiller for every fermentation, it would be nice to leave an attachment on the chiller coil hose barb for a quick secure connection.
 
ISO 7241-B
Try to get stainless otherwise they will fail sooner or later. Also these have a female inlet and outlet so you may need adapters. The stainless ones are expensive relatively speaking, but better to pay once and be done.
Also, you need to beware that you must have a means of releasing pressure. If you install these in a closed circuit with cold glycol, when you disconnect, the cold glycol will be trapped inside and it will expand as it warms and you will not be able to release the pressure to connect the fittings again. Therefore, you will probably need a tee fittings with a ball valve / purge valve setup on one of the ports in addition to those fittings.

This might be more trouble than it's worth but would accomplish what you ask.

i would not trust the inexpensive garden hose type qd no leak fittings, and they would also have a pressure lock issue without a purge valve.

A cheaper option might be some polysulfone qd fittings with a short segment of tubing to connect to the hose barb you spoke of. I don't think that these will keep the glycol from dripping out when disconnected. Either way you need a way to purge the glycol unless you like cleaning glycol off the floor. I have found that it is not much fun.

On my system, I have a pair of ball valves connected to a Tee fitting that then connects to my glycol manifold inlet via cam locks. One ball valve is shut and connects to a triclover fitting I use to purge with co2 when needed, the other valve of course, connects to the glycol pump outlet, which I close when purging.
I can attach a photo if you like when I get home so let me know, I also could take some photos of the fittings I mentioned and what happens with you don't buy the stainless ones...

TD
 
KimJohansen said:
Anyone that has good tip for cooling hose couplings? In stead of going trough the trouble of fixating the hoses on the chiller for every fermentation, it would be nice to leave an attachment on the chiller coil hose barb for a quick secure connection.
Click to expand...
These are what I used (tip from conan71 earlier in this thread). Note I have two different Chronicals, one of them is a BME and uses the 3/8" fittings, the other is a standard using a cooling jacket. It uses the 1/2" fittings. MAYBE a drop is lost when disconnecting. Works like a champ! What ever size you need you must buy 2 of each fitting, basically 2 female and 2 male fittings. Personally I have not had the problems TrickyDick notes above with pressure whatsoever.

Purchased from http://www.usplastic.com Once there search for the item numbers listed below.

Item # Item Description Qty Qty U/M Item Price Disc % Disc Price Extended Price
60814 1/2" In-Line Hose Barb HFC 12 Series Polypropylene Coupling Insert - Shutoff 2 Each $9.71 $9.71 $19.42
60689 1/2" In-Line Hose Barb HFC 12 Series Polypropylene Coupling Body - Shutoff 2 Each $12.58 $12.58 $25.16
64651 3/8" In-line Hose Barb APC Series Acetal Coupling Body w/Shroud - Shutoff 2 Each $5.61 $5.61 $11.22
64661 3/8" In-line Hose Barb APC Series Acetal Insert - Shutoff 2 Each $5.74 $5.74 $11.48
 
Those plastic fittings look like they would probably work better than the couplings I mentioned.

Beware again that if you have a closed system that has cold glycol in it, as it warms after disconnecting and sealing off from the recirculating coolant, it will increase in pressure. This might not be a significant problem if your tubing is elastic enough to tolerate the pressure, but you should at least be aware of the situation.

Is there any metal in contact with the glycol in those plastic fittings that can rust? Curious.
 
TrickyDick said:
Those plastic fittings look like they would probably work better than the couplings I mentioned.

Beware again that if you have a closed system that has cold glycol in it, as it warms after disconnecting and sealing off from the recirculating coolant, it will increase in pressure. This might not be a significant problem if your tubing is elastic enough to tolerate the pressure, but you should at least be aware of the situation.

Is there any metal in contact with the glycol in those plastic fittings that can rust? Curious.
Click to expand...

Not calling you out, but simply pointing out the pressure rise is not significant in my personal experience. The fittings I posted earlier in the thread have not required any sort of pressure relief and I may lose a drop or two of solution when I disconnect them.
 
I got it.

I was using shutoff type fittings directly on the ends of cooling circuit, in my case, stainless coils with compression fittings. When you disconnected both the input and output hoses, it would pressurize the closed loop. In order to overcome the pressure, you needed to use a hammer to release the pressure from the fitting, which is not entirely dissimilar from a Ball Lock keg coupler. I imagine if you are using some reinforced vinyl tubing, there is enough elasticity in that tubing (unlike pure steel) to accomodate the pressure rise.

All I am saying is to be aware of this, and not to connect shut-off type quick disconnect fittings directly to say for instance a jacketed conical or an indwelling steel cooling coil without some tubing between the qd fitting and the rigid and inelastic steel inlet/outlets of the cooling circuit or you will have a problem.

TD
 
Here is a couple of pictures to help you out. I came home today to find this on the porch. Early Father's Day present. So there are 4 plastic barbed discharge fittings attached to phhathalate free braided tubing fastened with Oetiker clamps. The intakes appear to be possible brass or colored aluminum that are soldered to the rear with copper tubing extenders and fastened by large bolts. I have included some pictures. Already brewed two beer a couple of days ago, so I look forward to testing it out soon.

image.jpg
 
Dcmpres said:
Here is a couple of pictures to help you out. I came home today to find this on the porch. Early Father's Day present. So there are 4 plastic barbed discharge fittings attached to phhathalate free braided tubing fastened with Oetiker clamps. The intakes appear to be possible brass or colored aluminum that are soldered to the rear with copper tubing extenders and fastened by large bolts. I have included some pictures. Already brewed two beer a couple of days ago, so I look forward to testing it out soon.
Click to expand...

Assuming the pump discharge connects to the braided tubing, where do the pump power cords go? I have this same chiller but bought it direct from the distributor so I don't have the custom lid. I like the four return barbs.
 
dshepard said:
Assuming the pump discharge connects to the braided tubing, where do the pump power cords go? I have this same chiller but bought it direct from the distributor so I don't have the custom lid. I like the four return barbs.
Click to expand...
Did SS design this for the pump(s) to all be placed in the resevoir? I was under the impression for some reason, there would be a pump already installed with a trunk line. Don't know where I got that idea. Lol
 
calebstringer said:
Did SS design this for the pump(s) to all be placed in the resevoir? I was under the impression for some reason, there would be a pump already installed with a trunk line. Don't know where I got that idea. Lol
Click to expand...

The stock chiller does come with a pump however I am not using it. I am using a FTSS pump for one of my fermentors and a pond pump style pump on my other fermentor. The FTSS pumps are tiny and I can see 4 of them fitting in the reservoir.
 
dshepard said:
The stock chiller does come with a pump however I am not using it. I am using a FTSS pump for one of my fermentors and a pond pump style pump on my other fermentor. The FTSS pumps are tiny and I can see 4 of them fitting in the reservoir.
Click to expand...


Is there any reason you couldn't use the stock pump?
 
TrickyDick said:
I got it.

I was using shutoff type fittings directly on the ends of cooling circuit, in my case, stainless coils with compression fittings. When you disconnected both the input and output hoses, it would pressurize the closed loop. In order to overcome the pressure, you needed to use a hammer to release the pressure from the fitting, which is not entirely dissimilar from a Ball Lock keg coupler. I imagine if you are using some reinforced vinyl tubing, there is enough elasticity in that tubing (unlike pure steel) to accomodate the pressure rise.

All I am saying is to be aware of this, and not to connect shut-off type quick disconnect fittings directly to say for instance a jacketed conical or an indwelling steel cooling coil without some tubing between the qd fitting and the rigid and inelastic steel inlet/outlets of the cooling circuit or you will have a problem.

TD
Click to expand...

Never even dawned on me you were using an all metal cooling loop. Makes perfect sense to be leery of expansion in that case. I work in the boiler business and what you posted about with the expansion is the exact reason an expansion tank is required on a closed heating system.
 
Dsherpard... I will run the power cords for the ftss pumps in between the copper coil at the base of the lid where The coil runs into the reservoir. I may use a Dremel tool to cut small slits into the lid for the power cord depending on how I set this up for my three fermentors.

I think you could retro fit something into your stock Eco-33. Perhaps two intakes and 2 discharges on either side of the pump. Would two ftss pumps fit into the reservoir along with the stock pump? I think you would have more versatility if you could do that. I would like to have had that stock pump for a trunk system down the road, as I would love to run a line from my garage into my bar area to a couple of taps. Would like to know what diy retro fit you might try.

And the answer to the other question is yes. The ftss pumps fit into the reservoir and you connect the discharge side of the pumps to the braided tubing.
 
Carlscan26 said:
Is there any reason you couldn't use the stock pump?
Click to expand...
You probably could, however the FTSS is a DC motor so I used that. The pond pump motor was already wired for a controller so I used it. I still have the stock pump and may use it for chilled lines to my taps some day.
 
dshepard said:
These are what I used (tip from conan71 earlier in this thread). Note I have two different Chronicals, one of them is a BME and uses the 3/8" fittings, the other is a standard using a cooling jacket. It uses the 1/2" fittings. MAYBE a drop is lost when disconnecting. Works like a champ! What ever size you need you must buy 2 of each fitting, basically 2 female and 2 male fittings. Personally I have not had the problems TrickyDick notes above with pressure whatsoever.

Purchased from http://www.usplastic.com Once there search for the item numbers listed below.

Item # Item Description Qty Qty U/M Item Price Disc % Disc Price Extended Price
60814 1/2" In-Line Hose Barb HFC 12 Series Polypropylene Coupling Insert - Shutoff 2 Each $9.71 $9.71 $19.42
60689 1/2" In-Line Hose Barb HFC 12 Series Polypropylene Coupling Body - Shutoff 2 Each $12.58 $12.58 $25.16
64651 3/8" In-line Hose Barb APC Series Acetal Coupling Body w/Shroud - Shutoff 2 Each $5.61 $5.61 $11.22
64661 3/8" In-line Hose Barb APC Series Acetal Insert - Shutoff 2 Each $5.74 $5.74 $11.48
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, looks like a great idea and I think I'll go with these fittings. Just trying to think of whether I want to put the fitting close to the chiller or the fermenter...any suggestions or photos of how you did yours?
 
lpdjshaw said:
Thanks for the info, looks like a great idea and I think I'll go with these fittings. Just trying to think of whether I want to put the fitting close to the chiller or the fermenter...any suggestions or photos of how you did yours?
Click to expand...

I put mine at the fermenter. This allows me to disconnect and roll my fermenters either to the garage on brew day to fill or outside on the driveway to clean. During fermentation I have them in a utility room in my basement. I used silicon tubing and basically have just enough to clamp the tubing to the coil and the other end to the fitting.

Something that is shown in previous pictures in this thread is insulation. I ran my first ferments without insulation (I was excited and in a hurry) and was amazed at the amount of condensation on the tubing. I would have thought the silicon would have had a slight amount of insulation properties. I now have piping insulation bought from Lowes and that problem has been solved.
 
Are you guys insulating the tubing with regular foam pipe insulation ? How is it holding up ? I mean is there condensation and does it soak into a the foam ?

Still waiting on my chiller. I just got the shipping notification from SS. I may have lost a batch of a double IPA. My FTS ice / water combination couldn't keep up with the 85 degree temps in my garage and when I got up in the morning my temp had gone to 77 degrees in the fermenter. ��
 
dshepard- on your BME with quick disconnects, you are using silicon tube on the 3/8" barb, clamp and then female adapter, clamped on as well? Then the connecting tube is silicon with the male adapter? The same would be on the chiller side or directly into pump. 1/2 bbl BME and chiller just arrived, attempting the same set up and would rather not reinvent the wheel. picture?
Cheers
dshepard said:
I put mine at the fermenter. This allows me to disconnect and roll my fermenters either to the garage on brew day to fill or outside on the driveway to clean. During fermentation I have them in a utility room in my basement. I used silicon tubing and basically have just enough to clamp the tubing to the coil and the other end to the fitting.

Something that is shown in previous pictures in this thread is insulation. I ran my first ferments without insulation (I was excited and in a hurry) and was amazed at the amount of condensation on the tubing. I would have thought the silicon would have had a slight amount of insulation properties. I now have piping insulation bought from Lowes and that problem has been solved.
Click to expand...
 
Ponderosabrewing said:
dshepard- on your BME with quick disconnects, you are using silicon tube on the 3/8" barb, clamp and then female adapter, clamped on as well? Then the connecting tube is silicon with the male adapter? The same would be on the chiller side or directly into pump. 1/2 bbl BME and chiller just arrived, attempting the same set up and would rather not reinvent the wheel. picture?
Cheers
Click to expand...
On the BME side I did what you said. However I made sure I alternated the male/female to make sure I put the hoses on the same way every time. I have the chiller output go to the top of coil instead of the bottom which I believe is backwards from what SSBrewtech recommends. My pump was short cycling the other way. My theory was that the cold glycol comes in the bottom of the coil (closer to the temperature probe) and was cutting off almost immediately. I was also concerned about stratification as cold drops. I realize during active fermentation there is some action in there, but once I changed my in/out the pump short cycled less. On the chillier/pump side the silicon tubing is connected directly to the chiller or pump. I do not have any quick disconnects there.

Attached are some pictures (sorry for the sideways or upside down, they look right on my computer). Notice how short the connections are at the BME as mentioned in my previous post.

20160709_035238[1].jpg


20160709_035340[1].jpg


20160709_035403[1].jpg


20160709_035431[1].jpg
 
dshedard how happy are you with the SS glycol chiller? I have a 7 gallon BME and am looking at either buying the glycol chiller or making my own out of an AC unit. The SS one looks so much nicer but costs a lot more money but I could easly grow into.
 
Goolsbymd said:
dshedard how happy are you with the SS glycol chiller? I have a 7 gallon BME and am looking at either buying the glycol chiller or making my own out of an AC unit. The SS one looks so much nicer but costs a lot more money but I could easly grow into.
Click to expand...

I bought mine direct from distributor before SSBrewtech started selling theirs. I think it is basically the same chiller. So far it is working like a champ. I have been using it for two 14g chronicals. One BME and one standard that has external cooling jacket.

http://rapidswholesale.com/3-gal-glycol-unit-1-3-hp-120v.html
 
I am loving my glycol chiller, it has made fermenting a breeze. I placed mine on a cart for portability along with all my FTSS pumps. I am currently cold crashing a brew on my 7g BME. My garage temps have been in the low to high 90's and the chiller has kept my ferment temps at 38 degrees with very little cycling of the chiller. I also haven't noticed any condensation on the BME itself, but a little collects at the connection site on the chiller itself. It has really been a set it and forget it.

I going to fully test out this rig capabilities for my next my brew day when I split a 25 gallon batch between my 1/2 barrel and (2) 7 gallon chronical. Then we will really see how this bad boy operates.






View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1468248757.983241.jpg
 
I received my latest BYOB yesterday and I saw an ad for the SS Brewtech Brite tanks. I did a search and wound up here. I've not been on the forums lately but just this year alone, there are some really cool new products.

To the OP: Very nice setup. I have the same glycol chiller. I can't remember if I bought it in 2014 or 2015. I use mine on a Brewha BIAC medium and I built a recirculating loop. That is probably not really necessary for the SS B setups but I've been more than happy with the way mine works. I only wish the Brewha neoprene jackets were priced like the SSB jackets (Brewha neoprene >$400 when shipped). I thought about trying one of the SS B neoprene jackets but the BIAC is jacketed so it is quite a bit larger and I'm sure it would not fit. Even after I bought the BIAC, I still kept two of my SS Brewbuckets and when I'm brewing multiple batches of beer, I transfer from the BIAC to a SS Brewbucket (love those things). Their Brite tanks are what led me here and they are intriguing. But I bought the BIAC to reduce some of my equipment and to have a small footprint, so I'm kinda leaning toward the Blichmann QuickCarb. But if anyone here gets an SSB Brite Tank to use with their glycol system, I'll be eager to see it.
 
KimJohansen said:
Anyone using BrewPi combined with a Glycol Chiller and a multi fermenter setup?
Click to expand...

To do this effectively you would need a multi instance set up (one arduino for each fermenter) day tripper would be the guy to talk to. Check out the 'brewpi for cheap' in the DIY forum.
 

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