Doubling Down: SS Brewtech Conical + FTSS + Glycol Power Pack

[emr25]

https://www.morebeer.com/products/beer-gas-quick-connect-inline-set-shutoff.html

Much cheaper. And does a great job also

$30 plus shipping for (2) sets, so maybe a bit cheaper. I also wanted to go with 3/8” barbed fittings to minimize the restriction on flow rate.

But yes, there are countless options available to get the job done. I never realized the world of aquarium parts was so large!

 

[Joe17]

Here is an interesting video i just watched showing how a brewery transfers beer from unitank to bright tank. One thing they do is actually equalize the pressure by connecting a line from blow off valve to the receiving tank. For our purposes this could be blow off valve to CO2 in on the keg. They then equalize the pressure between both tanks first. So would need keg at same level or a tick higher than tank to prevent beer from back pressuring into the keg. Next they use an inline pump (like chugger, riptide) to control the flow of beer from the unitank to the bright or in our case keg. I am wondering if this would work well for home use? This might help with some of the issues people are having. I might actually try this. Might make it easier than trying to use a spunding valve and manually adjust the pressure keeping just the right pressure between the two tanks.

Thinking this through even more, by not using a spunding valve, would also not send any aroma from the hops into the air, could lead to better finished product.

Just saw this yesterday and found it interesting

 

[marjen]

So looks like he did something very similar by equalizing the pressure between the tank and keg. I am definitely going to try something like this with my next batch.

Also I heard from SS Brewtech on a couple things.

1. They indicated that carbing needed to be done at low temps (as close to 32 as possible) or else the CO2 would properly get into the beer. So does not sound like carbing at room temp is an option. Also need to apply pressure to the headspace prior to carbing through the stone.
2. Pressure during transfer has to be very close, 1-2 PSI max. Otherwise foaming will be an issue. So you either need to be really good at doing it manually or try some sort of closed loop transfer like indicated in the videos above.

 

[marjen]

I just received my FTS TC clamp shelf in the mail today. That was fast and free of charge. Nice!

 

[martianpc]

I just received my FTS TC clamp shelf in the mail today. That was fast and free of charge. Nice!

Did you have to request they send it to you? Or did they just send it to you since they knew you bought and didn't get one?

 

[Morrey]

Did you have to request they send it to you? Or did they just send it to you since they knew you bought and didn't get one?

Reference post #727, page 19 of this thread.

In this post you'll see where I contacted Ss about the bracket for my Uni tanks. I bought my 14G as a pre-order and it arrived in Oct. I bought my 7G as a pre-order and it arrived in Jan. Both tanks included the FTSs2 heat and cooling systems.

You'll see that Ss has no intention of sending out a "free" bracket with previous orders that included a FTSs or FTSs2 system. They are sending out the mounting bracket with tanks being sent now for those buying the FTSs option, but don't plan to send out the brackets for retro orders.....unfortunately. They will be making the bracket available once they have them in inventory as an accessory.

If anyone has been able to "negotiate" a situation in that Ss sends these at N/C, this sets a precedence that Ss will most certainly stand behind for us all. I hope to find out if this is in fact true.

 

[marjen]

Reference post #727, page 19 of this thread.
If anyone has been able to "negotiate" a situation in that Ss sends these at N/C, this sets a precedence that Ss will most certainly stand behind for us all. I hope to find out if this is in fact true.

They sent me a free one this week. I sent a support request asking for one, and they shipped it out right away and free of charge, I got it yesterday.

 

[RevKev]

Side note. Does anyone feel that the quality of the valves have decreased as they have grown.. I bought a BME in the early days now have just started playing around with my unitank and dunno if it's because they have not been broken in or just the tolerances have been laxed.. But the valves are definitely different

 

[helibrewer]

$30 plus shipping for (2) sets, so maybe a bit cheaper. I also wanted to go with 3/8” barbed fittings to minimize the restriction on flow rate.

But yes, there are countless options available to get the job done. I never realized the world of aquarium parts was so large!

You can use the APC QD's which are cheaper: https://www.freshwatersystems.com/c-976-apc-series-valved-couplings.aspx

 

[byounger]

I also have the Brite tank (10 gal) and was disappointed that there wasn't a way to relieve pressure when there is product in the tank. I modified mine like this:

This is how I did it. My tank’s PRV is a TC fitting. I substituted with a TC tee and then attached the PRV. I put a TC ball lock gas post on the other side for serving.

 

[RevKev]

This is how I did it. My tank’s PRV is a TC fitting. I substituted with a TC tee and then attached the PRV. I put a TC ball lock gas post on the other side for serving. View attachment 558892

Are those pool noodles? Or what kinda insulation are you running I like the aesthetics of it lol

 

[byounger]

Pipe insulation on my glycol lines.

 

[Tozzi]

I shall, too, very soon try to transfer my first pressured batches from both Brite and Unitank into NC kegs.
Closed Loop transfer, using gravity, will probably, albeit slowly, work with my Brite (it sits on a scissor-style lifting table) but not with the Unitank, so I might have to use a spunding valve.
These usually suck, but I recently stumbled across this one, which to me looks promising:
https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=spundingvalve

Has anyone tried this? Hopefully it will allow for keg pressure to be set as close as possible (within 1-2 psi) to the Unitank's, in order to limit the foam building up inside the keg but still get some flow...
I reckon the small diameter of the dip tube will actually be an advantage, for once, and that patience is key (as always).

Chilling the beer to 32˚F (0˚C) is not an option (yet), unfortunately.
41˚F (5˚C) will have to suffice.

 

[helibrewer]

This is how I did it. My tank’s PRV is a TC fitting. I substituted with a TC tee and then attached the PRV. I put a TC ball lock gas post on the other side for serving. View attachment 558892

Ah, pressurizing was not my problem, it's relieving the pressure that I couldn't do. The 10 gallon Brite Tanks does not have any capability to vent the head space other than the PRV. So if pressure builds beyond your desired pressure, there is no way to vent the tank other than just pouring beer. I added the T and valve so I could relieve head pressure from the tank if I need to...like to vent so I can add fining agent.

 

[helibrewer]

I shall, too, very soon try to transfer my first pressured batches from both Brite and Unitank into NC kegs.
Closed Loop transfer, using gravity, will probably, albeit slowly, work with my Brite (it sits on a scissor-style lifting table) but not with the Unitank, so I might have to use a spunding valve.
These usually suck, but I recently stumbled across this one, which to me looks promising:
https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=spundingvalve

Has anyone tried this? Hopefully it will allow for keg pressure to be set as close as possible (within 1-2 psi) to the Unitank's, in order to limit the foam building up inside the keg but still get some flow...
I reckon the small diameter of the dip tube will actually be an advantage, for once, and that patience is key (as always).

Chilling the beer to 32˚F (0˚C) is not an option (yet), unfortunately.
41˚F (5˚C) will have to suffice.

I didn't find it very precise. I use a simple ball valve on the gas post and gently vent while transferring. I use a 1/4" flare to 1/4" push connect adapter attached to my keg fitting. I then use a short piece of 1/4" poly tubing with a push connect valve attached. Start the transfer with the 2 vessels approximately equal in pressure, then crack the vent valve to allow transfer to continue. We use the same principal at work when racking from 120bbl fermenters into kegs and from keg-to-keg.

In this shot you can see a rig attached to the fermenter and we just vent the PET bottles with a valve on the Sanke tap.....no spunding, no gauge.

 

[byounger]

Ah, pressurizing was not my problem, it's relieving the pressure that I couldn't do. The 10 gallon Brite Tanks does not have any capability to vent the head space other than the PRV. So if pressure builds beyond your desired pressure, there is no way to vent the tank other than just pouring beer. I added the T and valve so I could relieve head pressure from the tank if I need to...like to vent so I can add fining agent.

I just add a disconnect (with nothing attached) to vent the tank.

 

[marjen]

Question. Anyone have the 14 gallon unitank and the glycol chiller try and do a 5 gallon batch and cold crash? I have it set to 34 f but it will not go below 41 f. Wondering if that is the limitation for a 1/2 batch?

 

[martianpc]

It works, you need to be a lot colder though on the glycol. I found success at 14 degrees F.

 

[marjen]

Thanks. I did not know you could set chiller lower than 26. Will try that.

 

[martianpc]

Thanks. I did not know you could set chiller lower than 26. Will try that.

Which chiller do you have and what ratio of glycol did you use

 

[marjen]

SSBT and 2:1 water to glycol.

 

[czmkid]

Just looked in the 3 galllon glycol tank and discovered the tops of the copper cooling coils frosted up and the liquid level low. Haven’t had any leaks and know about a m9nth ago it was filled to the top. Can’t imagine that there was that much evaporation in this cool weather but......regardless It needs filling.

I know the initial ratio of glycol to distilled water. But what should I do now? Just add glycol? Or use the same rTio but at smaller portions till the reservoir is filled. Only reason I even noticed is the pale ale I am cold crashing only got to 40 deg and not 35.

On another note my transfer on Friday went well. The beer was 1/2 carbed when going into the keg. Beer wa much clearer with an extra week of cold crashing/conditioning. The dry hops in the current batch that will be kegged is hanging in a stocking (2oz) to see if that helps even more with clarity. I’m sure it will.

Meanwhile, did a big NEIIPA and moved that into the right uni. No way this is gonna be clear lol. 3 oz in the boil. 5oz in the fermenter after 3 days. And another 5 oz in at day 6 of fermentation.

 

[rlw162]

For those doing closed transfers to kegs, what size tubing are you using between the racking valve and the keg? I assume you can use larger than standard (3/16") beer line tubing?

 

[Morrey]

Just looked in the 3 galllon glycol tank and discovered the tops of the copper cooling coils frosted up and the liquid level low. Haven’t had any leaks and know about a m9nth ago it was filled to the top. Can’t imagine that there was that much evaporation in this cool weather but......regardless It needs filling.

I know the initial ratio of glycol to distilled water. But what should I do now? Just add glycol? Or use the same rTio but at smaller portions till the reservoir is filled. Only reason I even noticed is the pale ale I am cold crashing only got to 40 deg and not 35.

Have you topped off the glycol/water reservoir yet? I honestly have no clue what a pan of pure glycol (straight from the jug, uncut with water) would do in terms of evaporation if set out in the open air. I would venture to guess that some of the water component of the glycol may evaporate and leave it more concentrated...but this is a pure guess on my part.

I'd be tempted to top it off with a glycol/water mix in the ratio you originally used, but I really don't know the right way to actually approach this. Hoping you may have found out or possibly someone else may see this and offer advice.

 

[martianpc]

If you don't have a cover on your container, I would cover it with plastic wrap and tape that airtight.

 

[helibrewer]

Just looked in the 3 galllon glycol tank and discovered the tops of the copper cooling coils frosted up and the liquid level low. Haven’t had any leaks and know about a m9nth ago it was filled to the top. Can’t imagine that there was that much evaporation in this cool weather but......regardless It needs filling.

I know the initial ratio of glycol to distilled water. But what should I do now? Just add glycol? Or use the same rTio but at smaller portions till the reservoir is filled. Only reason I even noticed is the pale ale I am cold crashing only got to 40 deg and not 35.

On another note my transfer on Friday went well. The beer was 1/2 carbed when going into the keg. Beer wa much clearer with an extra week of cold crashing/conditioning. The dry hops in the current batch that will be kegged is hanging in a stocking (2oz) to see if that helps even more with clarity. I’m sure it will.

Meanwhile, did a big NEIIPA and moved that into the right uni. No way this is gonna be clear lol. 3 oz in the boil. 5oz in the fermenter after 3 days. And another 5 oz in at day 6 of fermentation.

You can use a refractomer or hydrometer....should be in the 1.030's

 

[marjen]

So I just did a transfer using the new method from the video I posted above, it went perfectly! Easiest transfer since I started brewing. Usually its the most frustrating step, but this was great. So here is what I did.

1. I set the PSI to as close as possible between the tank and the keg.
2. I connected the keg in port to the tank carb stone port. Ideally I would have another connection via blow off valve to apply head pressure but need to reconfigure my ports. This worked fine though.
3. Next I connected my blichman quick carb between the keg out and the racking port (end butterfly from the bottom). I removed the carb stone and capped off that port on the quick carb. You could probably use any brew pump here but this one is easier to sanitize and has all the right connectors on it already.
4. I opened racking port on the tank, turned on the pump and to get it started released a small amount of pressure from the keg. That was it. Once it got going it had a nice steady flow the entire time.

One thing I would do differently next time is drop the very first beer to a bucket as it had a ton of junk in it. Luckily the flow from the pump kept the poppits from clogging but dumping that first but would further ensure a clog free transfer.

Overall took about 7-10 mins to completely transfer. Worked great.

 

[Tozzi]

I connected my blichman quick carb between the keg out and the racking port (end butterfly from the bottom). I removed the carb stone and capped off that port on the quick carb.

That's a brilliant idea, using the Quick Carb set.
I've got two beers ready for kegging, one is sitting in my Unitank, the other in a 10 Gal. Brite, both pressurized.
How did you cap off the unused port on the Blichmann kit?

 

[marjen]

"How did you cap off the unused port on the Blichmann kit?"

I got a 1/2" PVC cap. It did let some pressure out so going to try a different fitting next time. But still worked well.

 

[czmkid]

That’s cool that it went so well congratulations! I don’t understand the purpose of the quick carb pump if you are using co2 to push to the liquid out of the keg? Would you mind discussing this in more detail?

My fifth batch transfer went well. It was the best so far. I had a co2 tank with two air lines running the same psi. One was hooked up to the air stone port of the unitank. The other went to the empty keg. To get the beer to flow was still hands on. In other words the prv on the keg still needed pulling. If I notice co2 breaking out into the line I just turned of the co2 to the keg. Once I figured out the pressure difference to get the beer to flow little corrections were needed. Another thing that helps usually monitor flow and vessel pressure rates is a small inline sight glass that I have connected to the racking butterfly of the unitank.

Good call on dumping some to waste at first I’ve been doing this as well just to be safe. The extra week conditioning, carbing, and cold crashing this last beer made a difference in clarity for sure. As did socking the dryhops. The beer was clear, and only going to get it clearer as it sits in the keg. Being able to drink it right away since it was carbed and cold was also a plus. This extra week is going to be built into my process from now on. Since the beer is 35 deg going into the keg you can also see a condensation line form as it fills. Guess I should get a scale to measure 5 gallons by weight but this works as well.

This video was the transfer before this one when I was still trying to figure out the co2 pressure for the two vessels. You can see the co2 breaking out. In the last transfer with a More balanced pressure between there was waaaay less co2 in the sight valve.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=19-TZMGECidyPezFSglUvIiUPgWHHO8EU