Doubling Down: SS Brewtech Conical + FTSS + Glycol Power Pack

[emr25]

The next planned upgrade is to use a CIP spray ball and sump pump for cleaning the BME Chronical.

The pump I’ve seen recommended and plan to purchase is this 1/3 HP submersible from Amazon.

Would this pump work better with the Micro or Regular sized spray ball from SS Brewtech?

Also, how can I convert the outlet on the pump to something like a 3/4” hose barb to run 3/4” tubing from the pump to the CIP inlet? I’ve read that brass should be avoided since I plan to do a hot PBW rinse followed by clean water followed by SaniClean.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X07GQS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

https://www.ssbrewtech.com/products/cip-spray-ball-3-tc-assembly

https://www.ssbrewtech.com/products/mini-cip-spray-ball-1-5-tc-assembly?variant=40297379154

 

[byounger]

This looks really nice and I've been searching for a connection like this one, like forever.
Could you provide me with a link where you got this TC to tap fitting from?
Man, you guys are really fortunate. It is a major PITA (and mostly in vain) to try and find seemingly basic stuff like this in Europe.

Sorry for the delay Tozzi. It's 3 separate pieces. From the left.
1. Perlick 690SS From beveragefactory.com
2. MrBrew Quick Disconnect Adapter from https://www.amazon.com/MRbrew-Disconnect-Adapter-Chrome-Brewing/dp/B076S2WKJR/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518467314&sr=8-2&keywords=mrbrew+quick+disconnect
3. 1.5" TC to 1/4" Flare - https://www.ssbrewtech.com/products/1-5-tc-to-1-4-mlf-threaded-flare

The "disconnect" (i don't know why they call it that) adapter was the hardest to find. The first two I ordered would not work with a flow control faucet (a must).

Hope this helps...

 

[dunnry]

The next planned upgrade is to use a CIP spray ball and sump pump for cleaning the BME Chronical.

The pump I’ve seen recommended and plan to purchase is this 1/3 HP submersible from Amazon.

Would this pump work better with the Micro or Regular sized spray ball from SS Brewtech?

Also, how can I convert the outlet on the pump to something like a 3/4” hose barb to run 3/4” tubing from the pump to the CIP inlet? I’ve read that brass should be avoided since I plan to do a hot PBW rinse followed by clean water followed by SaniClean.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X07GQS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

https://www.ssbrewtech.com/products/cip-spray-ball-3-tc-assembly

https://www.ssbrewtech.com/products/mini-cip-spray-ball-1-5-tc-assembly?variant=40297379154

I have that setup. I use the larger spray ball. If you have an open 3" port, that's what I would use.

I also have that model pump in 1/5 HP and it's plenty powerful. In fact, it's slightly too powerful - you really have to be careful to make sure you have sufficient return. It's very easy for the pump to drain the bucket faster than it can be returned (with both valves wide open).

I use a female garden hose to 1/2" mpt adapter and then from there use a Cool Touch fitting to my hoses. I use a 90 degree Cool Touch to supply the CIP ball. The supply line is normal 1/2" silicon tubing.

Parts:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00835IOUM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/nptswivelcooltouch12barb.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/nptswivelcooltouch12barb90.htm

I use 3/4" silicon tubing to return from the bottom dump valve and 1/2" tubing from the racking valve. I can tell you that it barely keeps up with that flow with the smaller 1/5 HP pump. I used to use a 1" reinforced tubing for return and that worked slightly better at the expense of flexibility of the hose and having to use clamps. I prefer the smaller silicon stretched over a 1" barb for ease of use. However, you do need to be sure there are no kinks anywhere or the pump will quickly outrun the return.

 

[Tozzi]

With CIP, it's all about the inner diameter of the tubing.
3/4" for supply, and 1" for outlets is what works best for me.
If your pump seems to be too weak, look at the tubing first.
I was skeptical at first, too, but larger tubing does the real magic.

@byounger:
Thanks a lot! I'll go grab these, even if it means another 2 hours trip to my local Customs & Excise office...
Luckily, I already own 2 of those 1,5 TC to 1/4 MFL adapters.
They come in handy extremely often. Might even have to buy some more of these.
The "disconnect" in your second link is exactly what I was looking for.
Of course, once again, they won't ship to Europe (same as Ss Brewtech).
Will need to find another supplier first or once again bother one of my American friends.

 

[marjen]

SO for anyone who has carbed in the unitank, how long does it take? Is 24 hrs generally sufficient. I will be chilling it with a glycol chiller down to 35-40 degrees.

 

[Tozzi]

Yep, 24 hours is sufficient.

 

[byounger]

With CIP, it's all about the inner diameter of the tubing.
3/4" for supply, and 1" for outlets is what works best for me.
If your pump seems to be too weak, look at the tubing first.
I was skeptical at first, too, but larger tubing does the real magic.

@byounger:
Thanks a lot! I'll go grab these, even if it means another 2 hours trip to my local Customs & Excise office...
Luckily, I already own 2 of those 1,5 TC to 1/4 MFL adapters.
They come in handy extremely often. Might even have to buy some more of these.
The "disconnect" in your second link is exactly what I was looking for.
Of course, once again, they won't ship to Europe (same as Ss Brewtech).
Will need to find another supplier first or once again bother one of my American friends.

PM me. I’ll consolidate a shipment and send to you directly. It’s not a problem.

 

[marjen]

Yep, 24 hours is sufficient.

Thanks. Also thanks for CIP pump info. I just ordered the 1/4 HP version of the one listed above. Should be enough to get the job done. Will be nice to simplifying cleaning.

 

[Tozzi]

PM me. I’ll consolidate a shipment and send to you directly. It’s not a problem.

Thanks, that's really kind of you!

Luckily I've found all I need, once you pointed me at the right direction regarding what to look for.
Sometimes, my head is just spinning with all those different thread types.
Whilst we do have metric ones over here, usually, I now have to deal with NPT, GHT, MFL, and the list goes on and on; it seems to never end.
Luckily, I was able so far to at least avoid the British ones, which are (of course) yet different again...

Another PITA is the fact that all the tubings I can buy here are metric, while their counterparts of course are not.
It's either hose clamps or lighter/torch (latter case meaning no chance of removing that tubing later on without using a knife).
But I'm getting used to it.
GHT threads involved some shopping for disconnects from China (and waiting for 2 months) in order to build some DIY adapters, but I'm getting there...
Already, my collection of reducers and fittings is likely to make some plumbers go pale with envy by now.

In Europe, we're traditionally blessed with good beers available all around, the downside being that in home brewing (and suitable low volume equipment) we are decades behind, by lack of perceived necessity.
But that's perhaps for another thread.

Very happy with Ss Brewtech Equipment I am, for sure.
Using lots of Blichmann-made stuff as well, and FiveStar cleaning & sanitising products.

Sorry for the wall of text.

 

[czmkid]

@emr25

I use the regular sized ball and after the second cip I think I’m getting more efficient with this process. This weekend will be another chance to clean as I am kegging a blind pig clone. After all are we all really just professional cleaners who happen to brew beer?

I was thinking of getting bungs to put in the places of all of the tc fittings so I could have those all out (still cip without making a mess) and in the pwb solution in the bucket with the sump pump....then just leave them in there for the rinse..dump that sanitize and reassemble all for an Idaphore soak.

Here is my setup

 

[marjen]

Does anyone know anywhere to get a filter that will fit the tip of the racking arm? Trying to avoid hop matter getting in the line and clogging things up during transfer. I tried one off amazon but only fits a keg dip tube it was too narrow for the diameter of the racking arm.

 

[RevKev]

 

[RevKev]

In case anyone was wondering they are shipping with the FTSs mounting bracket starting last week

 

[marjen]

man how do I get one of those. Are they going to send them to people who already have a unitank?

 

[Morrey]

In case anyone was wondering they are shipping with the FTSs mounting bracket starting last week

Does the bracket fit around the TC clamp, or is it built together?

 

[byounger]

Does anyone know anywhere to get a filter that will fit the tip of the racking arm? Trying to avoid hop matter getting in the line and clogging things up during transfer. I tried one off amazon but only fits a keg dip tube it was too narrow for the diameter of the racking arm.

I’m having the same issue. I’m getting tired of hop bags clogging the racking arm (and bottom BF dump valve). This last batch, I put all the hops in several bags and attached dental floss. I strung it across the internal glycol tube to prevent them from sinking. Less than ideal. I’ve thought about attaching a modified bazooka tube to the racking arm and folding it over at the connection with a ss clamp fitting. I don’t really like that option either.

 

[byounger]

Does the bracket fit around the TC clamp, or is it built together?

The bracket is welded to the TC clamp on what came with my BME Brite Tank.

 

[Morrey]

The bracket is welded to the TC clamp on what came with my BME Brite Tank.

I'll keep watching the Ss website for the bracket to be sold as an accessory. This is an awesome addition to these tanks.

 

[czmkid]

Mine FTSs and unitanks shipped with that tc shelf on 1/5. Weird how some people got them and some didn’t.

Is clarity the reason y’all are using dry hopping cylinders and or bags in the unitanks? Can’t one just throw them in and then cold crash to get most of the hop matter to fall then dump that? How do the breweries do it that have uni’s?

 

[RevKev]

I wanna say they likely don't use bags, to me seems redundant when you will loose the same amount of beer just about either way. I don't plan on doing bags for my first IPA but then again I don't care about the haze for them.. I do however care when it comes to other styles but a cold crash should be sufficient

 

[marjen]

I have been wondering as well how breweries do transfers. The issue for me is always clogged poppets on the ball lock. Looking for ways to avoid that.

 

[dunnry]

I have never seen a commercial brewery use bagged hops for their fermenters. They just crash and dump them and use their racking arms. However, for some adjuncts like cacao nibs, cinnamon, or wood staves, I have seen them suspend them from the CIP ball in bags to remain in the center of mass.

 

[philly224]

Have you guys ever tried dry hopping without bags, and then dumping without cold crashing? I tried it for my last brew and it did not go too well. There was still a lot of hops in the conical after I dumped what I could. Would crashing help with that?

 

[marjen]

Looking for quick disconnects for the glycol chiller lines, any suggestions?

Also I ordered a PET jar and I am going to try that vs the glass. Dont want to worry about it possibly shattering.

Just did a run through with my CIP ball for the first time. Tank was clean but hasn't been used since November, so just did a recirculation with a hose off the bottom into my riptide pump. Worked well. Ordered a sump pump, should be here today, for the heavy clean up. Want to try and see if I can modify my kettle top for CIP, man that would make life easier.

 

[marjen]

Here is an interesting video i just watched showing how a brewery transfers beer from unitank to bright tank. One thing they do is actually equalize the pressure by connecting a line from blow off valve to the receiving tank. For our purposes this could be blow off valve to CO2 in on the keg. They then equalize the pressure between both tanks first. So would need keg at same level or a tick higher than tank to prevent beer from back pressuring into the keg. Next they use an inline pump (like chugger, riptide) to control the flow of beer from the unitank to the bright or in our case keg. I am wondering if this would work well for home use? This might help with some of the issues people are having. I might actually try this. Might make it easier than trying to use a spunding valve and manually adjust the pressure keeping just the right pressure between the two tanks.

Thinking this through even more, by not using a spunding valve, would also not send any aroma from the hops into the air, could lead to better finished product.

 

[emr25]

Looking for quick disconnects for the glycol chiller lines, any suggestions?

I have these for glycol line disconnects. You’d need (2) each of the male and female for a supply run and return run. A bit pricey, it was $44 with shipping for the (4) parts, but they are very high quality and don’t spill even a drop.

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-8162-ns4-valved-in-line-hose-barb-coupling-body-38-id-barb.aspx

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p...ine-hose-barb-coupling-insert-38-id-barb.aspx

 

[marjen]

I have these for glycol line disconnects. You’d need (2) each of the male and female for a supply run and return run. A bit pricey, it was $44 with shipping for the (4) parts, but they are very high quality and don’t spill even a drop.

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-8162-ns4-valved-in-line-hose-barb-coupling-body-38-id-barb.aspx

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p...ine-hose-barb-coupling-insert-38-id-barb.aspx

Thanks I just ordered a set of these.

 

[marjen]

In case anyone was wondering they are shipping with the FTSs mounting bracket starting last week

I sent a support request to SSBT and they are sending out a free bracket to me, in fact it already shipped. I got my Unitank in Oct so all early adopters if you want one, they should be able to provide you with one. Great customer service.

 

[czmkid]

I use these disconnects

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/i...dtWPNa_Nntnrimj56O5WMvpdB5FhlaZ4iHxoC-MLw_wcB

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=37301&catid=926

And this hose:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CR4OQI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

And some hose insulation and zip ties from Lowe’s.

On a transfer note. This weekend I will rack to the liquid out of a keg without the filter. I am guessing that I will have zero issues as when I took the filter out of the loop mid transfer last week it was smooth as a gravy sandwich. I went ahead and threw 2.5 oz of dryhops and 1oz of oak chips directly into the unitank on Monday after dumping the yeast. Cold crashing for two days at 35 seemed to get hops and remaining yeast out of suspension and down to the cone. I followed the advice of just cracking the ball valve on the blowoff arm when opening the dump butterfly. Huge difference in how fast thing happened. I felt like I was in total control of what came out and had minimal beer loss. Props for that tip in this thread!

 

[RevKev]

Looking for quick disconnects for the glycol chiller lines, any suggestions?

Also I ordered a PET jar and I am going to try that vs the glass. Dont want to worry about it possibly shattering.

Just did a run through with my CIP ball for the first time. Tank was clean but hasn't been used since November, so just did a recirculation with a hose off the bottom into my riptide pump. Worked well. Ordered a sump pump, should be here today, for the heavy clean up. Want to try and see if I can modify my kettle top for CIP, man that would make life easier.

I have these for glycol line disconnects. You’d need (2) each of the male and female for a supply run and return run. A bit pricey, it was $44 with shipping for the (4) parts, but they are very high quality and don’t spill even a drop.

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-8162-ns4-valved-in-line-hose-barb-coupling-body-38-id-barb.aspx

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p...ine-hose-barb-coupling-insert-38-id-barb.aspx

https://www.morebeer.com/products/beer-gas-quick-connect-inline-set-shutoff.html

Much cheaper. And does a great job also