Double ipa final gravity

[xxkiskekyxx]

I'm making a double ipa. OG is 1.084 the ibu's are 94 and the final gravity is calculated at 1.020. That seems way too high. I was thinking about mashing at 145 and adding a lb of sugar to raise the abc and lower the final gravity. Is this a good way to approach this issue. I'm looking for gravity of 1.014 to 1.016.

 

[bobbrews]

What is your recipe? 1.014-1.016 should be attainable depending on your recipe and process.

 

[xxkiskekyxx]

You can find my recipe on hop like. It's called dulcinea 2012. I'm not sure I'm allowed to post links.

 

[xxkiskekyxx]

http://hopville.com/recipe/1578028/imperial-ipa-recipes/dulcinea-2012-07-27-version

 

[bobbrews]

I would highly suggest doing a full volume boil with no top off water. Is this possible w/your system?

Two packets of us05 would fare better than one packet of english yeast and one packet of us05. A nice sized starter of WLP001 would be even better. The attenuation % will most likely be higher than 75%. That's what is skewing the numbers.

I'll revamp the recipe and repost it here if you wish. Or you can make some tweaks and repost. Are you set on using all of those ingredients, or do you have other options? There's really no point in mashing only 8% of 2-row. You need to step this up to 20-30% minimum for a decent partial mash IIPA. Adding half of your extract late in the boil will help with hop utilization and keeping your beer from getting too dark. Your cara- malt % is quite high. Try keeping it below 7%. Additionally, you see how you wrote "Briess" caramunich? Try to do that for all of your ingredients. The ppg/L vary among maltsters so all 2-row and pale extract is not created equal. Furthermore, hopville's figures are not always accurate so sometimes it requires some research to find the true ppg/L of a product. Lastly, I'd set mash efficiency to 75%. 60% is way low for a beer that is primarily extract.

 

[xxkiskekyxx]

I was using the English ale for its flavor profile and doing a starter to get roughly 250 billion cells. I should be able to do a full volume boil

 

[xxkiskekyxx]

The us05 was in case the fermentation halted prematurely

 

[Pie_Man]

Adding a portion of sugar will help to lower your FG. I know double IPAs like Pliney the Elder mash around 151 and use sugar as part of the fermentables and that beer finishes with a low FG. You could mash at 145, or raise the temperature slightly, it's up to you.

 

[xxkiskekyxx]

I would highly suggest doing a full volume boil with no top off water. Is this possible w/your system?

Two packets of us05 would fare better than one packet of english yeast and one packet of us05. A nice sized starter of WLP001 would be even better. The attenuation % will most likely be higher than 75%. That's what is skewing the numbers.

I'll revamp the recipe and repost it here if you wish. Or you can make some tweaks and repost. Are you set on using all of those ingredients, or do you have other options? There's really no point in mashing only 8% of 2-row. You need to step this up to 20-30% minimum for a decent partial mash IIPA. Adding half of your extract late in the boil will help with hop utilization and keeping your beer from getting too dark. Your cara- malt % is quite high. Try keeping it below 7%. Additionally, you see how you wrote "Briess" caramunich? Try to do that for all of your ingredients. The ppg/L vary among maltsters so all 2-row and pale extract is not created equal. Furthermore, hopville's figures are not always accurate so sometimes it requires some research to find the true ppg/L of a product. Lastly, I'd set mash efficiency to 75%. 60% is way low for a beer that is primarily extract.

Theoretically I should lower the amount of malt extract I use I'd I pump the two row to 20 percent right? Also how will doing a full volume boil affect my product?

 

[bobbrews]

http://hopville.com/recipe/1614203/imperial-ipa-recipes/dulcinea-2012-07-27-version

 

[xxkiskekyxx]

135 ibu really? You think the brew can handle that? Also when do I add the second addition of malt extract.

 

[bobbrews]

At 1.080 OG+ with a cut from your original version which was high in bittering hops / low in late hops? Yes. You could even add more late addition hops in there from 10-5 min if you wanted.

Theoretical IBUs are no where near actual IBUs. Plus, your reading was in Tinseth. I like Rager myself. As a point of reference, Pliny the Elder is 1.071 OG and +300 theoretical IBUs, but in reality it's probably only about 60-70.

You can add the extract around 15 minutes left in the boil and the sugar at flameout.

 

[xxkiskekyxx]

Learning so much thank you. I'm feeling much more confident about my procedure and ingredients.

 

[xxkiskekyxx]

The post boil hops should I not be chilling during that period also the late addition of the warrior... Is warrior good enough for flavor or aroma to be worth using that way?

 

[bobbrews]

It's not the best choice as an aroma hop, but it's better than Magnum. I assumed you only had three hops on hand.

For post boil hops, there are many methods. I like to chill as quickly as possible to around 160 F, add the post boil hops, then slow chill to 65 F over the course of 20-30 minutes. The long, warm steep gives you a different character than a very hot flameout addition, which is no better than a 1-5 minute boil addition as far as I'm concerned.

 

[xxkiskekyxx]

It's not the best choice as an aroma hop, but it's better than Magnum. I assumed you only had three hops on hand.

For post boil hops, there are many methods. I like to chill as quickly as possible to around 160 F, add the post boil hops, then slow chill to 65 F over the course of 20-30 minutes.

I'm not brewing today I can always get an ounce of simcoe or something else but more galaxy. Maybe cascade. Also should I be chilling during post boil or just steeping with cover on?

 

[xxkiskekyxx]

It's not the best choice as an aroma hop, but it's better than Magnum. I assumed you only had three hops on hand.

For post boil hops, there are many methods. I like to chill as quickly as possible to around 160 F, add the post boil hops, then slow chill to 65 F over the course of 20-30 minutes. The long, warm steep gives you a different character than a very hot flameout addition, which is no better than a 1-5 minute boil addition as far as I'm concerned.

Sorry the message was cut off thanks for the post boil advce

 

[bobbrews]

Up to you. There are several methods.

I chill with a wort chiller to 160 F, then rely on a slow working ice bath for the rest of the cooling, which is the same time I toss in the post boil hops. Cover is on during the whole time post-boil aside from the occasional whirlpool. Do not put the cover on during the boil though.

 

[xxkiskekyxx]

Thank you for the advice. Have any tips about secondary fermentation? I was just going to do a long primary but now with a lower flocculating yeast I'm afraid I won't get decent clarity.

 

[bobbrews]

Long primary is fine. If you rack to secondary, make sure you don't have a ton of headspace.

I would keep it simple and go in the primary for 4 weeks. Use the last week to dryhop. Set the carboy at counter height away from light and heat and disturbance. Leave it there for the duration and siphon gently from the undisturbed carboy to your bottling bucket at a lower height. Everything drops out, even the pellet dryhops. I find that I get crystal clear IPAs like this without the need to cold crash. Or you could cold crash in a bin at counter height... just as long as you don't shake up the trub when it comes time to rack. Wrapping your racking cane with a nylon mesh bag will help.

 

[xxkiskekyxx]

Your advice has been invaluable thank you south you put me very much at ease.ill be sure to post my results.

 

[xxkiskekyxx]

Do you have any advice on the use of gypsum or raising the temperature of the primary fermenter to 75-77 degrees after the primary fermentation is over? it being hotter this year the temperature is resting about there naturally but I'm using a macguyver type method to cool my carboy through the primary fermentation. Just wondering if I have to continue this through the second stage after the alcohol has been converted or whether it wont negatively affect my beer.

 

[bobbrews]

You need to know your water composition via a water report before you add gypsum or other water refiners. Otherwise, you're run the risk of overdoing it... which is much worse than underdoing it. I would post in the Brew Science forum on this site for advice once you know your numbers.

Why would you want to raise the temp to 75-77 F when primary fermentation is over? Of course the first 3-7 days after pitching the yeast is the most important, but I would try to keep it in the 60s throughout. This is after all a Double IPA. With a Saison, you would have more leeway.

 

[xxkiskekyxx]

I dont want to. Its the ambient temperature without my cooling device. Its hot this year and the room temperature is at the ranges I quoted. Thats why I was wondering if after the primary it would negatively affect my beer. Is it possible it could lead to rpemature autolysis?