Doing a cascade IPA without specialty grains?

[Metacomb]

So I am about to make an extract brew with the following ingredients:
9.15 #s northern brewer gold malt extract syrup
4 oz cascade pellets and 1 oz centennial hops.

This is my first non-kit brew and I kind of just want to go for it and see what happens.
Without getting into my hop schedule, will a beer without specialty grains be bland or lack flavor or complexity in some way? I guess that is really all I am asking here.

Thanks.

 

[Yankeehillbrewer]

I don't think it will be lacking if you use the hops in the right way.

 

[bobbrews]

+1

You don't need "specialty grains" to make a good, dry, hop forward extract IPA - even if you use extra light extract.

But you do need more hops. 5 oz. is doable, but pushing it. A little sugar wouldn't hurt either.
What yeast are you using?

What's your start boil size and end batch size? A full volume boil with no top off water is recommended.

 

[permo]

So I am about to make an extract brew with the following ingredients:
9.15 #s northern brewer gold malt extract syrup
4 oz cascade pellets and 1 oz centennial hops.

This is my first non-kit brew and I kind of just want to go for it and see what happens.
Without getting into my hop schedule, will a beer without specialty grains be bland or lack flavor or complexity in some way? I guess that is really all I am asking here.

Thanks.

1 oz cascade at 60
1 oz cascade at 30
1 oz cascade at 10
1 oz cascade at FO
1 oz centennial dry hop

This will be tasty....

I would use WLP001 or WY1056 as well. You don't need specialty grains with gold extract, crystal is already mashed in with the base to get it "gold".

 

[unionrdr]

I'd use no more than 1.5-2lbs of the extract in a 2.5-3 gallon boil. But I'd sub the 30 minute addition of Cascade with the Centennial. You want the herbal/floral/grapefruit aroma of cascade in an IPA,imo.

 

[bobbrews]

I'd use no more than 1.5-2lbs of the extract in a 2.5-3 gallon boil.

How do you know this is a 3 gallon boil?

I regularly use 3-4 lbs. of extract in a full volume 4.2 gallon boil when I brew indoor IPAs. This is in addition to 3 lbs. of extra mashing and steeping grains for an average OG between 1.066-1.072.

 

[unfairbeef]

I'd use no more than 1.5-2lbs of the extract in a 2.5-3 gallon boil. But I'd sub the 30 minute addition of Cascade with the Centennial. You want the herbal/floral/grapefruit aroma of cascade in an IPA,imo.

My possibly derpy question is this - Say, I were to do a 3 gallon boil with this same recipe and put the 2lbs of extract into the boil, would I then add the rest of the extract at FO and top off to 5 gallons?

Metacomb - What were your original plans with this? If this can be worked to make a reasonable beer, this sounds like exactly the type of easy beer I would like to keep around for a house brew.

 

[unionrdr]

I had no intention of offending. I just assumed a PB.

How do you know this is a 3 gallon boil?

I regularly use 3-4 lbs. of extract in a full volume 4.2 gallon boil when I brew indoor IPAs. This is in addition to 3 lbs. of extra mashing and steeping grains for an average OG between 1.066-1.072.

My possibly derpy question is this - Say, I were to do a 3 gallon boil with this same recipe and put the 2lbs of extract into the boil, would I then add the rest of the extract at FO and top off to 5 gallons?
Yes. ?That's what I do. The wort is still 180F+ at that time. More than hot enough to pasteurize when covered & steeped for 15 minutes.
Metacomb - What were your original plans with this? If this can be worked to make a reasonable beer, this sounds like exactly the type of easy beer I would like to keep around for a house brew.

 

[bobbrews]

Oh, I wasn't saying that to be moody. Just wanted to know if you had a side discussion with the OP. No problemo.

 

[Metacomb]

I plan on doing a partial boil and adding all the extract in there when it comes to a boil. The same amount of extract was used in NB's Dead Ringer IPA kit I did recently and it worked out fine. I just top off with water to 5 gallons in the fermentor.

Thanks for the replies!

 

[unionrdr]

How was the color & flavor on that brew? Also,lighter gravity in the boil seems to have better hop utilization. I have noticed better hop complexity with late additions that lasts longer in the bottle. But it's your call,of course.

 

[Metacomb]

It has been brewed!
Ingredients were as follows:
9.15 Ibs. Northern Brewer Gold Malt Syrup
4 oz. cascade pellets, Alpha 6.2%, Beta 6.2%
1 oz. centennial pellets, Alpha 9.7%, Beta 6.7%

60 minute boil. started with about 2.7 gallons. All LME was added at beginning of boil.

Hop schedule:
1 oz centennial – 60 min
.5 oz cascade (eyeballed from 1 oz package (from hop nation)) – 60 min
1 oz cascade – 30 min
1 cup sugar (Whole foods bought, wholesome sweeteners, organic sugar, evaporated cane juice) – 20 min
.5 oz. cascade - 14 min
2 oz cascade – 5 min


Safale US-05 yeast pitched in dry form (worked well enough with the Dead Ringer IPA from NB). Probably need to get my act together when it comes to yeast.

Thanks again!

 

[Metacomb]

Bit confused with some of the comments on the previous page with regards to the amount of extract to be added. Only a couple pounds recommended with a partial boil? I was under the impression that adding all the LME at the beginning of the boil was the way to go (or at least ok?). I have much to learn so any knowledge would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[joyceman]

Alot of people advocate for a late extract addition when doing a partial boil. Less sugars in the wort can lead to better hops utilization which means less hops additions. Also alot of extract brewers have issues with darkening of the wort away from the desired color due to carmelization of the extract. A late addition can help avoid this also.

 

[unionrdr]

My experiences exactly,joyceman.

 

[DirtyHaus]

Are there benefits to late extract additions... YES

Will adding all the extract in the beginning still yield great beer... YES

Just do whatever your heart desires and play around with it from there, just my 2 cents

 

[logan3825]

Alot of people advocate for a late extract addition when doing a partial boil. Less sugars in the wort can lead to better hops utilization which means less hops additions. Also alot of extract brewers have issues with darkening of the wort away from the desired color due to carmelization of the extract. A late addition can help avoid this also.

There are mixed opinions on how a partial boil effects hop utilization.

9.15 Ibs. Northern Brewer Gold Malt Syrup
4 oz. cascade pellets, Alpha 6.2%, Beta 6.2%
1 oz. centennial pellets, Alpha 9.7%, Beta 6.7%

60 minute boil. started with about 2.7 gallons. All LME was added at beginning of boil.

Hop schedule:
1 oz centennial – 60 min
.5 oz cascade (eyeballed from 1 oz package (from hop nation)) – 60 min
1 oz cascade – 30 min
1 cup sugar (Whole foods bought, wholesome sweeteners, organic sugar, evaporated cane juice) – 20 min
.5 oz. cascade - 14 min
2 oz cascade – 5 min


Safale US-05 yeast pitched in dry form (worked well enough with the Dead Ringer IPA from NB). Probably need to get my act together when it comes to yeast.

I would have added half a pound of table sugar. Other than that I would have made it just like that. I was going to recommend US-05. Liquid yeast seems to be a waste to me when you are showcasing hops.

 

[bobbrews]

I was going to recommend US-05. Liquid yeast seems to be a waste to me when you are showcasing hops.

That's the silliest thing I've ever heard. WLP001 would work just as fine, if not better. Especially if the gravity is quite high.

 

[logan3825]

Seeing as how they are supposed to be the same yeast strain(or at the very least very similar) that is not silly at all. Throw in a packet or 2(for a higher gravity) and forget about it. Less expensive and easier than liquid yeast.

Given the hop additions to this particular recipe, any difference, if there is one, will be masked by the hops.

 

[bobbrews]

Seeing as how they are supposed to be the same yeast strain(or at the very least very similar) that is not silly at all. Throw in a packet or 2(for a higher gravity) and forget about it. Less expensive and easier than liquid yeast.

Given the hop additions to this particular recipe, any difference, if there is one, will be masked by the hops.

You just glossed over the entire point of your previous comment with that reply... that is, saying that it would be a waste to use liquid yeast when you're showcasing the hops.

Whether dry or liquid, that has nothing to do with it. It's all about the particular strain of the yeast and the temperature it is fermented at.

If all liquid yeast accentuated malt character and muted hop character (whereas the opposite were true for dry yeast) well then your argument would hold water. Luckily, that is not the case.

 

[crusader1612]

Looks like a nice simple Brew... I use Safale US-05 in alot of mine and turns out ok, the thing I would have changed is added 1oz of cascade with 5-7 days before bottling, for that great aroma! I always Dry-Hop PA's.

P.S Logan I don't think it matters in relation to the Liquid or Dry debate on such a simple brew.