American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

[TrubHead]

Just tasted mine. The ringwood yeast got it down to 1.014 in about 7 days @ 65f. Then 7 days at 70f. It has cleared really nice. It tasted great, no noticeable off flavors yet. I will probably use this yeast again.

Had an English style ale brewed using 1187 and think it tastes better with age. Definitely using 1187 again.

 

[MikeyLXT]

Brewed my 60 minute clone (now named Train Wreck 1) this weekend as a BIAB All-Grain.

Everything went very well and my temps were basically spot on. I ended up splitting the hops up with my scale so that every 2.5 minutes I was making an addition. It ended perfectly with my last addition at flame out. OG was slightly low at 1.065 but this is most likely due to having a slightly more volume into my fermentor then anticipated. I still havent nailed down my absorption rate and my boil off rate. I should look into tracking that better.

It was bubbling away this morning when I checked it 12 hours after adding the yeast from the starter.

This will be my 1st recipe on the keg.

 

[Jonny-V]

Looking to do recipe this using BIAB method.
However, my brewpot is only a 10 gallon Polarware unit.
Will this be too small?
I have a 10 gallon Igloo cooler that I had intended to make into a mash tun, but once I started brewing BIAB, I never got the false bottom, etc.
Would I be better off converting my cooler and doing this the "traditional" AG way?
BIAB is just so easy.....

 

[starrfish]

I have a 10 gallon brew pot as well and have done BIAB. It can be done but I prefer to stick to grain bills that are 10lbs or less. not because of size of pot, but more for working with over ten pounds of saturated grains is a real pain. squeezing the goodness from bag at that weight sucks.

 

[stpug]

Thanks for the recipe Yooper. I ended up bumping this one ahead one spot in my pipeline because I was very intrigued with a 'no crystal' IPA. I brought the gravity down to 1.058 and IBUs down to about 57 to make it a bit more sessionable, though it'll still weigh in at about 6% ABV at full attenuation. My bittering charge (chinook) was put in all at 60 minutes, and my "continuous" hopping didn't begin until 15 minutes but I tried to keep dropping in pellets of hops at every minute or two. I made sure to save some left for a flameout addition and quickly brought the temp down to 175F for a 15 minute steep. I'm really looking forward to the final product because it's a new take for me on this style.

Thanks for keying my into an IPA recipe without any crystal - I'll let you know the end product turns out.

Cheers!

 

[Viejo]

Hmm. I did a similar experiment making a DFH 60 Min clone without crystal, substituting Munich instead, and it turned out quite different than my prior attempt, which was pretty close to the real deal. I don't think I'd recognize this version as a knock-off of the original, even though it's very good.

To compensate for the lack of crystal, I bumped the mash temp up to 155 to produce a fuller body. It's the lightest colored beer I've ever made, and deceptively full-bodied, but I think I prefer the version with crystal. Just a little caromel-y-ness missing that I like.

 

[Viejo]

I meant "caramel-y-ness". In case there is such a word, it should be spelled correctly, at least!

 

[sivdrinks]

The recipe of base malt and Thomas Fawcett Amber is clone worthy, no crystal is going get it to taste like DF60. Also, this beer SHOULD be 6% ABV. Not sure why some people are making it so its 7+ ABV. At this moment DF is saying they use Simcoe and Palisade. Having said all that its your beer, make it how you want

 

[Yooper]

The recipe of base malt and Thomas Fawcett Amber is clone worthy, no crystal is going get it to taste like DF60. Also, this beer SHOULD be 6% ABV. Not sure why some people are making it so its 7+ ABV. At this moment DF is saying they use Simcoe and Palisade. Having said all that its your beer, make it how you want

I've been making this recipe a bit differently for my House IPA over the last couple of years. I kept the hopping the same, and changed the grainbill to 10 pounds two-row, and kept the 6 ounces of TF amber malt. I normally get an OG of 1.055-1.057 or so, which comes out perfectly for me since it's more quaffable. I mash lower, and get a FG of 1.010. It's 6% ABV.

I never use crystal malt in it, but I have it for the extract recipe since TF amber malt is a "mash only" grain and it's not bad in the extract version. The AG version does not contain crystal malt!

Of course, I no longer consider it a "clone", but that's what I drink for my House IPA.

 

[sivdrinks]

I've been making this recipe a bit differently for my House IPA over the last couple of years. I kept the hopping the same, and changed the grainbill to 10 pounds two-row, and kept the 6 ounces of TF amber malt. I normally get an OG of 1.055-1.057 or so, which comes out perfectly for me since it's more quaffable. I mash lower, and get a FG of 1.010. It's 6% ABV.

I never use crystal malt in it, but I have it for the extract recipe since TF amber malt is a "mash only" grain and it's not bad in the extract version. The AG version does not contain crystal malt!

Of course, I no longer consider it a "clone", but that's what I drink for my House IPA.

Wasnt debating you Yooper, it was for all the other people on here changing your recipe and brewing it to 8%. Forgot about the crystal in the extract recipe, my bad on that. FWIW I brewed the recipe with Palisade once and didn't care for it, YMMV.

 

[HopinJim]

Brewing this up tomorrow. Looked at the "sessionable" aspect, and dropped the base to 11 lbs, but I could only get Crisp Amber and I went with pale ale base instead of regular pale 2-row. Same hop schedule, get to try out my newly-built hop spider. Using US-05 as it has served me well on my other IPA's. BS has this one coming in at 6.1% based on my efficiency, so looking forward to it as DFH60 is one of my favorite go-to IPA's. Thanks, Yoop!

 

[Yooper]

Brewing this up tomorrow. Looked at the "sessionable" aspect, and dropped the base to 11 lbs, but I could only get Crisp Amber and I went with pale ale base instead of regular pale 2-row. Same hop schedule, get to try out my newly-built hop spider. Using US-05 as it has served me well on my other IPA's. BS has this one coming in at 6.1% based on my efficiency, so looking forward to it as DFH60 is one of my favorite go-to IPA's. Thanks, Yoop!

I made this today. Well, sort of. I changed it up, making more my "house IPA" than the DFH clone it started out to be.

I used 20 pounds of two-row and 1 pound crisp amber malt for a 10 gallon batch, so I'd end up with less than 6% ABV. I really like session IPAs, so I can have a couple of them and still be functional.

 

[DocScott]

I'm going to brew a version of this on Sunday but I don't have any more amarillo. Would you suggest Citra or Cascade to substitute?

 

[ong]

I'm going to brew a version of this on Sunday but I don't have any more amarillo. Would you suggest Citra or Cascade to substitute?

Cascade is closer. Ahtanum would be nice.

 

[DocScott]

Cascade is closer. Ahtanum would be nice.

Thanks. I wrote it up with cascade. Used all my Amarillo in double jack and 90 min clones this year.

 

[HopinJim]

So I kegged this up on Thursday, and it's drinkable today. Now let me just say, I am a HUGE DFH 60 fanboy...been to the brewpub, been to the brewery, got the t-shirt...love the stuff. But I would say that this recipe is as good, if not slightly better! The bitterness seems a touch smother than the "real" DFH. Hats off to you, Yooper, this is a keeper! Will now be my house IPA. As I stated in my earlier post, I lightened up the base grain bill a little, to 11# of Pale Ale malt, and the ABV came in at 6.3, which is pretty much spot on for what I was shooting for.
Thanks, Yoop!

 

[Yooper]

So I kegged this up on Thursday, and it's drinkable today. Now let me just say, I am a HUGE DFH 60 fanboy...been to the brewpub, been to the brewery, got the t-shirt...love the stuff. But I would say that this recipe is as good, if not slightly better! The bitterness seems a touch smother than the "real" DFH. Hats off to you, Yooper, this is a keeper! Will now be my house IPA. As I stated in my earlier post, I lightened up the base grain bill a little, to 11# of Pale Ale malt, and the ABV came in at 6.3, which is pretty much spot on for what I was shooting for.
Thanks, Yoop!

I'm glad you like it as much as I do! I really love this beer. I'm drinking it right now (at this moment, in fact) but used BRY-97 for the yeast, and a higher sulfate water than I normally do, and I just don't like it as much as the "regular" version.

This one has a more pronounced almost exaggerated firm bitterness and less hops aroma. I did read on the BRY-97 description that beers could be less hoppy due to high flocculation, but it's still firmly bitter. I'm going to make the next batch exactly according to the recipe!

 

[HopinJim]

Well, I just used good ol' US-05, and it tastes wonderful! As an experiment though, I might actually try it with either s-04 or one of the other English strains just for curiosity's sake.

 

[HopinJim]

Just had to say it...so it's been a couple of weeks or so now since this became drinkable, and now that it's "cleared" and aged a bit, it is now my favorite! So now I have two "house brews"...this and my brown ale. Guess I need to publish the recipe for my brown and see if anybody else likes it as much as the folks here do...

 

[giorgio-alemani]

Just finished my brew day and I am so excited. Thanks to Yooper I had many of my questions answered and I am now very confident. Wort smelled so delicious and I got 1.070 with the DME version. Can't wait to see how it ferments. Thanks Yooper, you have been a great help!

 

[MongooseMan]

This is good, like really really good

 

[shortrc]

This is easily by favourite brew. It's so so good. I'd like to shake things up the next time I brew it and maybe age it on some poplar wood. What do you guys think?

 

[kal1701]

13 Pounds 2-row (US) 6 ounces Thomas Fawcett amber malt. .75 Warrior hops 16.4% AA (60 minutes) SEE NOTES ON HOPPING! .50 Amarillo Gold 8.5% (35 minutes) .50 Simcoe 12% (30 minutes) .50 Simcoe 12% Dry hop 1.00 Amarillo Gold Dry hop Irish Moss ( 1 tsp with 15 minutes left in the boil) Continuous hopping! Add 1/2 the warrior at 60 minutes and then add a little at a time until 35 minutes. AT 35 minutes, mix the amarillo and simcoe together and add a little at a time until you are at 0. Try to time the additions so that you end up with a few hops still at 0 minutes. Pacman yeast used- took the f.g. to 1.010! Hops were added as continous- first warrior only for the first 25 minutes just a few pellets at a time, then remainder all mixed together and continuosly added, starting at 35 minutes. Beer turned out fantastic! __________________________________________________________________________________________' Extract recipe: DFH clone Batch Size: 5.00 gal Boil Size: 2.5 gal Estimated OG: 1.072 SG Estimated Color: 13.1 SRM Estimated IBU: 49.8 IBU Boil Time: 60 Minutes Ingredients: Amount Item Type % or IBU 9.5 lbs Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 % 1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 % 1.25 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (60 min) Hops 26.7 IBU (Read notes!) 1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (35 min) Hops 10.0 IBU 1.00 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (30 min) Hops 13.1 IBU (Read notes! 1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops 0.50 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops Notes: Pacman yeast used, but any clean well attenuating yeast can be used. Try WLP001, Nottingham, or 1056 if pacman is not available. Hops were added as continuous first warrior for the first 25 minutes ( approximately half at 60 minutes, then a little bit at a time until 35 minutes was left in the boil). Then the rest of the hops were mixed together, and added continuously at 35 minutes. You can use dry malt extract instead of the liquid if you=d like- use 8 pounds of DME instead. Directions: Steep the crystal in a grain bag in 2.5 gallons of water at 150-155 degrees for 20 minutes. Remove the grains, and discard them. Bring that Atea@ to a boil. When it is boiling, remove it from the heat (take it OFF the burner!) And stir in the LME. Put it back on the burner, and bring it to a boil. When it is boiling, add approximately half of the warrior hops you have. Set the timer for 60 minutes. After that, continue adding a pellet or two or five, every minute or so, until there is 35 minutes left on your timer. Try to time it so you are out of warrior pellets at 35 minutes left. Mix the rest of the hops together in a bowl. When you have 35 minutes left, start adding those hops just a few at a time, trying to end with the last of them when your timer hits 0 and you turn the flame off. Chill the wort rapidly, add to your fermenter, and top up to 5 gallons with cool water. Check the temperature to ensure it is around 70 degrees, and pitch a neutral yeast like American ale yeast (1056), or dry yeast like nottingham or safale s05. Ferment until completely done, and then allow to rest. Two weeks is pretty good. Then, rack to a clean 5 gallon carboy and dry hop with the dryhopping hops. You can either just put them into the fermenter and rack onto them, or use a hops bag if you=d like. Just don=t pack them tightly, you want the beer to be in contact with the hops. Use two or three bags if you need them. After about a week, you can rack to a bottling bucket avoiding the hops chunks, and bottle. Prime as usual, with approx. 3.5- 4 ounces priming sugar for 5 gallons of beer. You may have less than 5 gallons, due to the hops sucking up some of the beer, that=s why 3.5-4 ounces is a good bet.

Hi yooper

I can't get warrior or simcoe

Could I substitute centennial land cascade for these
Thanks

 

[Yooper]

Hi yooper

I can't get warrior or simcoe

Could I substitute centennial land cascade for these
Thanks

There really isn't a substitute for simcoe, unfortunately. For warrior, galena or magnum would work great- I sub magnum most often.

 

[kal1701]

There really isn't a substitute for simcoe, unfortunately. For warrior, galena or magnum would work great- I sub magnum most often.

I'll just have to go with what I've got but thanks

How do I know when to add different hops

Centennial is bittering right So I add that at 60 mins but how do I decide on different ones

 

[kal1701]

There really isn't a substitute for simcoe, unfortunately. For warrior, galena or magnum would work great- I sub magnum most often.

Okay after looking at a few different recipes and what I can get my hands on how would this work out 12 lb pale lme 1lb crystal malt 80l 2oz centennial 60 mins 2oz nugget 60 mins 1.2 centennial 45 mins 1.2 centennial 30 mins 2oz cascade 15 mins 0.66 oz centennial 0 mins 2oz cascade dry hop 7 days 1 packet dry american ale yeast Thanks
On second looking my colour seems off and removing the the crystal seems to have put it back in the green on beer smith

 

[tallguybrewer]

Okay after looking at a few different recipes and what I can get my hands on how would this work out 12 lb pale lme 1lb crystal malt 80l 2oz centennial 60 mins 2oz nugget 60 mins 1.2 centennial 45 mins 1.2 centennial 30 mins 2oz cascade 15 mins 0.66 oz centennial 0 mins 2oz cascade dry hop 7 days 1 packet dry american ale yeast Thanks
On second looking my colour seems off and removing the the crystal seems to have put it back in the green on beer smith

You will make a decent beer, but it will not be close to a DFH clone. Amber malt and crystal malt are two different beasts. The 80l is a crystal malt and will give you carmel and sweetness in the beer. A pound of 80l in an IPA is a lot of crystal (esepcially given the darker color). A large number of folks will keep crystal malts to about 5% of the grist for IPAs, but it is really all about personal preference.

Amber malt is a toasted malt (not a crystal/caramel malt). It will not provide you with the sweetness that crystal malts will give off. Toasted malts are made by essentially "toasting" base grains. Crystal malts go through a different process in order to crystalize the sugars in the malt.

 

[stpug]

Okay after looking at a few different recipes and what I can get my hands on how would this work out 12 lb pale lme 1lb crystal malt 80l 2oz centennial 60 mins 2oz nugget 60 mins 1.2 centennial 45 mins 1.2 centennial 30 mins 2oz cascade 15 mins 0.66 oz centennial 0 mins 2oz cascade dry hop 7 days 1 packet dry american ale yeast Thanks
On second looking my colour seems off and removing the the crystal seems to have put it back in the green on beer smith

I see you're using LMExtract therefore you'd be better off following Yooper's extract clone recipe. In it, she specifies 40L crystal which would have a less burnt sugar character and sweeter profile (as opposed to 80L you have listed). Also, she uses significantly less LME than you are planning. If you go with 12lb LME you will be looking at about 2% higher ABV which will unbalance this recipe. Here's her recipe in case you missed it:

Extract recipe:
DFH clone

Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 2.5 gal
Estimated OG: 1.072 SG
Estimated Color: 13.1 SRM
Estimated IBU: 49.8 IBU

Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:

Amount Item Type % or IBU
9.5 lbs Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 %

1.25 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (60 min) Hops 26.7 IBU
(Read notes!)

1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (35 min) Hops 10.0 IBU
1.00 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (30 min) Hops 13.1 IBU
(Read notes!

1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops
0.50 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops

Your hop schedule is going to be quite different which will make your beer different than hers, but based on your selection of hops it is still going to be great. It looks like you have these hops and quantities to work with:

5oz centennial
2oz nugget
4oz cascade

You can do a lot with those. I would schedule them differently than you have planned though to maximize some of the citrusy hop characters:

1 oz Nugget 60 min
2 oz Cascade 10 min
0.5 oz Nugget 10 min
1.5 oz Centennial 5 min
0.5 oz Nugget 5 min
2 oz Centennial Flameout and 20-45 minute steep at 175F
1 oz Cascade Flameout and 20-45 minute steep at 175F

1.5 oz Centennial Dryhop 7 days
1 oz Cascade Dryhop 7 days

I assume the IBUs should work out plenty bitter with that schedule but without knowing the AA% of the hops it's hard to position them much better.

Hope this helps.

 

[kal1701]

I see you're using LMExtract therefore you'd be better off following Yooper's extract clone recipe. In it, she specifies 40L crystal which would have a less burnt sugar character and sweeter profile (as opposed to 80L you have listed). Also, she uses significantly less LME than you are planning. If you go with 12lb LME you will be looking at about 2% higher ABV which will unbalance this recipe. Here's her recipe in case you missed it: Your hop schedule is going to be quite different which will make your beer different than hers, but based on your selection of hops it is still going to be great. It looks like you have these hops and quantities to work with: 5oz centennial 2oz nugget 4oz cascade You can do a lot with those. I would schedule them differently than you have planned though to maximize some of the citrusy hop characters: 1 oz Nugget 60 min 2 oz Cascade 10 min 0.5 oz Nugget 10 min 1.5 oz Centennial 5 min 0.5 oz Nugget 5 min 2 oz Centennial Flameout and 20-45 minute steep at 175F 1 oz Cascade Flameout and 20-45 minute steep at 175F 1.5 oz Centennial Dryhop 7 days 1 oz Cascade Dryhop 7 days I assume the IBUs should work out plenty bitter with that schedule but without knowing the AA% of the hops it's hard to position them much better. Hope this helps.

Thanks for this

When you say flameout do you mean when the 60 min boil has finished
So would I bag these hops and put them in with the lid on for that time before cooling the wort

Thanks

 

[stpug]

Thanks for this

When you say flameout do you mean when the 60 min boil has finished
So would I bag these hops and put them in with the lid on for that time before cooling the wort

Thanks

Yes, flameout would be when the boil is all done and you're done with your heat source.

You can bag if that works best for your process. Sometimes I bag my hops, sometimes I don't. I prefer not to but I like the hop-free wort when I do. It's a real dilemma

I like to cool my wort to ~185-175F first (depends on my mood). Then I stop cooling and put in my hops, and cover my pot for the steep time. After that I finish up cooling as quick as I can so I can be done . You can put your hops in immediately at the end of the boil, cool to 180ish, and then steep. You can cool to 160ish. I've gone as low as 145 before adding hops but I wasn't impressed with the results - I like it a fair bit hotter.

There is no "perfect" or "right" way in brewing (there are some "wrong" ways though). It's very open to interpretation and that's part of what makes it so much fun. Have fun and let us know how your beer turns out.

I did one last night with a 180-175F steep for 75 minutes - longest I've ever done. It's smelled wonderful when all was said and done. Can't wait to be drinking it in a few weeks.