I know there is no munich in the recipe. No light lme there at the time. They were getting in a shipment but not for a few days. I thought I would go for it anyway. It will change it a bit but I wasn't sure how much.
Brewing my second batch of beer this weekend and I might just just have to try this. I love me some 60's...The pacman yeast likes to ferment into the 60 degree range, doesn't it? I am probably going to use the white labs 001 though.
Apologies for this dumb question but the percentages are different between the grains and the extract version. The 2 row is 97% and amber is 3%. Is it supposed to be this way?
All Grain:
13 Pounds 2-row (US)
6 ounces Thomas Fawcett amber malt.
Extract:
9.5 lbs Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 %
Crystal malt isn't really a sub for the amber malt- it's the closest thing, though.
Thanks. So does amber impart a greater flavor (sweeter, etc) than the crystal 40?
I know there is no munich in the recipe. No light lme there at the time. They were getting in a shipment but not for a few days. I thought I would go for it anyway. It will change it a bit but I wasn't sure how much.
medusa1066 said:I used Munich. It turned out great. Like a previous poster said, "Put enough Simcoe into anything and I'll drink it"![]()
I should have clarified that a little bit, i heated my sparge wqater to 180 and transfered it into a bottling bucket. I think by the time i began my sparge the water had cooled to 170 or under. I think i read in papazian somewhere that he recommended heating to 180 and just the natural transfering and cooling of the bucket will bring the water to 160 ish for sparging. My water stayed at 140 for most of the sparge which I am not sure how that will affect my final beer.
I typically do use a yeast starter but I did'nt think that I would reach 1.080 and the yeast said just pitch it in beer 1.070 and under. looking back i should have made one because i would of liked to have harvested the super san diego since it is much more expensive then the s 05. oh well, next time i will do things differently
and why does i pad spelling auto correct work sometimes and not others. grr
I should have clarified that a little bit, i heated my sparge wqater to 180 and transfered it into a bottling bucket. I think by the time i began my sparge the water had cooled to 170 or under. I think i read in papazian somewhere that he recommended heating to 180 and just the natural transfering and cooling of the bucket will bring the water to 160 ish for sparging. My water stayed at 140 for most of the sparge which I am not sure how that will affect my final beer.
Two weeks in primary and one in secondary with pellet hops just thrown in and my beer is still very cloudy. Should I bottle anyway and hope it clears up a little more in the bottles or let it sit longer in secondary with the dry hops to clear more? I brewed the extract version with 8lb 4oz DME and 1lb crystal 40L and fermented with Nottingham. OG = 1.070, FG = 1.014.
edit: Forgot to add the Irish Moss during the boil.
I wouldn't let it sit on the dryhops any longer. I usually don't dryhop until the beer is clear. In any case, you can bottle if you don't mind it clearing in the bottle.
Would cold crashing for a day or two help clear it slightly before bottling? That is what i would try but i am far from knowing!