American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

[Yooper]

Hey Yoop, how long do you dry hop this recipe for?

Making it tomorrow.

I'e gone from 3-10 days, depending on what was going on in my life. I usually try to dryhop for 7 days, though.

 

[Jersh]

I brewed this up for the first time yesterday.... I thought this would be a great beer to christen my new keggle with...

As it turns out, things didn't go as well as I had planned. Before brewing with the keggle I did a full hour test boil with water to determine my boil-off rate, and with water it was basically 2 full gallons in an hour, or 25% What I didn't account for was that during my test boil I left the burner burning at full-power, however with the beer I cut it back a bit (I was amazed that I almost had a boil-over with the the keggle, never thought that would be possible). So long story short, after my hour of boiling I still had almost 6.5 gallons in the keggle at a gravy of only 15.5 plato, and I was shooting for 17.0. So I had to boil for an extra 15 minutes to get the volume down to where the OG was at least close to what I was going for. So I'm expecting an extra bitter beer now that I had an extra 15 minutes with the boil... Hopefully it's still as delicious as I'm hoping for!

 

[gmtech825]

ive been itching to brew this again, but i cant find simcoe or warrior anywhere close by. any chance of a close substitute.

 

[Yooper]

ive been itching to brew this again, but i cant find simcoe or warrior anywhere close by. any chance of a close substitute.

For warrior, you can use just about any bittering hop. I've used magnum and galena with good results.

Unfortunately, there is NO good sub for simcoe. Simcoe is unique, sort of piney and citrusy. Maybe chinook would give a similar quality, but it would be a totally different beer.

 

[fatman]

For my first all grain batch, this recipe was to delicious to pass up. I feel like I hit all my marks. OG gravity was at 1.071. I really hope I did a great job, guess I will see in a few weeks. Here is a noob question, when do you start to see bubbling in your airlock...

 

[raymcgill]

@fatman;
Congrats! You are already a pro. You found this great recipe and made it happen.

Oh, and its bubbling already... I just know it.

Raymond in Portsmouth

 

[fatman]

Thanks! After doing some more reading I think I goofed and I am too emabarrased to admit my mistake, but I want to save my brew so here goes. I took the liquid yeast from fridge to wort. It may been in room temp for an hour. Its been fermenting for 17 hours. Is this fixable? I want to save my beer!

 

[raymcgill]

I don't see a problem if its fermenting. If it is NOT fermenting, give it another day. Patience! It sounds like your doing just fine. If your are panicky, spend your time going to pick up some backup yeast packets.

So you had liquid yeast and you threw it in cold or didn't pop the yeast nutrient. It will get there, just takes longer. Wait. BTW, I panicked the first time I made a yeast starter. It blossomed quickly and then sank to the bottom like trub. I pitched it and then worried. Then threw in a packet of dry yeast (or was it two?). End of story is I proved the tagline I had just read that day....

You know you're a homebrewer when you've mopped your ceiling!

Wait. Breath. RDWHAHB.

 

[fatman]

I think my SWMBO will ground my brewery plans if I ended up mopping the ceiling...lol. I did through the liquid yeast in cold. Will check later and see if any "magic" is occurring in the pail. I hope so. I will pay no mind until 72 hours in and take it from there.... Lessons learned...

 

[mmonacel]

I made this last month or so, hit all my numbers and dry hopped for 10 days. It turned out great! I did it as an extract with some steeping grains. I have yet to do the Pepsi challenge next to the original, however I've drank quite a bit of 60 min. in the past and I'd say this batch comes REALLY close. The main difference I've seen / tasted so far is that it has slightly bit more malt backbone to it than the original which I think is a great improvement. I'm not sure if it's due to the DME (Munton's Extra Light) as opposed to going AG, but I'm really happy with it. It's more balanced than the original and probably a great mix between the 60 and 90 min. IPAs in terms of maltiness / hop balance.

Thanks Yooper!

 

[Sea]

I think my SWMBO will ground my brewery plans if I ended up mopping the ceiling...lol. I did through the liquid yeast in cold. Will check later and see if any "magic" is occurring in the pail. I hope so. I will pay no mind until 72 hours in and take it from there.... Lessons learned...

You shouldn't have a problem at all/ Many brewers pitch cold on purpose and swear they get better results. Check out this thread:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/cold-pitching-good-read-176587/

 

[IPAAAA]

Any of you guys recommend a place online to get all these ingredients? I want to try it out with the extract method just not sure if it is better/cheaper to get everything online at a reputable shop or at my local spot.

 

[pernox]

Any of you guys recommend a place online to get all these ingredients? I want to try it out with the extract method just not sure if it is better/cheaper to get everything online at a reputable shop or at my local spot.

I shop at Rebel Brewer.

 

[fatman]

For all that have brewed this. How long did it stay in primary? Secondary? then how long did you condition it in the keg? I am confused because the recipe in beer smith has 12, 11, 14. Then it says to age for 4 weeks. I dont want to wait forever to drink this yummyness....

 

[Yooper]

For all that have brewed this. How long did it stay in primary? Secondary? then how long did you condition it in the keg? I am confused because the recipe in beer smith has 12, 11, 14. Then it says to age for 4 weeks. I dont want to wait forever to drink this yummyness....

I've done this recipe, or a slight variation, probably 50 times. It's always different. I don't go by a set number of days, but by the beer. I've had it ferment out in 24 hours, and I've had it take as long as a week to finish fermenting. Usually, though, it's done in about 5 days and I let it sit a bit longer in primary to clean up, clear, and condition a little bit. So, anywhere from 10-14 days in primary.

Then I rack onto the dry hops, going from 3-10 days depending on my work schedule. When I bottled, I'd let it sit in bottles for 4 weeks or so before trying. Now I keg, so I keg right after dryhopping.

A couple of weeks ago, I kegged it on about day 10, since it was in primary only for about 10 days and dryhopped for three days. That's faster than I usually do, but I used a more flocculant yeast and the beer was clear and finished in 10 days.

Whenever I brew, I don't go by a recipe's timetable. It really depends on each brew- yeast are living organisms and even using the same strain doesn't mean it'll behave the same the next time.

You'd be safe to give it 2 weeks in primary, and a week on the dryhops, if you wanted a general guideline.

 

[dummkauf]

Watch your temps too. My brewery(downstairs closet) always tends to stay on the cooler side which means I'm almost always fermenting at the bottom end, or lower, of the yeasts recommended temp range, which also means that it takes me longer for my beer to ferment.

 

[IPAAAA]

Can I make this using only malt extract and not the liquid kind? How much of it would I use then since it says 9.5 lbs Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 and 1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 %.

Lme is more expensive correct?

 

[dummkauf]

Can I make this using only malt extract and not the liquid kind? How much of it would I use then since it says 9.5 lbs Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 and 1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 %.

Lme is more expensive correct?

The extract recipe I use is here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f69/dogfish-head-60-minute-clone-ag-extract-25709/index52.html

That's for a full boil, if you are doing partial look towards the first few pages of this thread as you'll need to increase the hops during the boil.

I think LME is a little bit more expensive than DME, but not much. However, LME has a limited shelf life which is why most on here prefer DME as you don't have to worry so much about getting bad DME.

 

[IPAAAA]

The extract recipe I use is here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f69/dogfish-head-60-minute-clone-ag-extract-25709/index52.html

That's for a full boil, if you are doing partial look towards the first few pages of this thread as you'll need to increase the hops during the boil.

I think LME is a little bit more expensive than DME, but not much. However, LME has a limited shelf life which is why most on here prefer DME as you don't have to worry so much about getting bad DME.

Thanks.

So should I look for a specific kind or brand of the light dry extract or is that and the caramel/crystal malt all just a generic kinda malt?

I have never brewed before so that is why I ask. Gonna be my first batch and I want to order all the right ingredients. Btw..you think I am better off buying everything online instead of at a brew store?

 

[Yooper]

Thanks.

So should I look for a specific kind or brand of the light dry extract or is that and the caramel/crystal malt all just a generic kinda malt?

I have never brewed before so that is why I ask. Gonna be my first batch and I want to order all the right ingredients. Btw..you think I am better off buying everything online instead of at a brew store?

If you have a good local homebrew store, that would be a great place to get what you need. I haven't been so lucky, so I order almost everything online.

By the way, I'm not home today, but if you're interested in an actual step-by-step recipe, I'd be happy to email you one tomorrow when I'm home and on my own home computer. Send me a private message with your email address if you're interested in that.

You can order the crystal/caramel malt that is needed, as well as the extract you want in any homebrew store. Crystal malt isn't really a generic kinda malt. It's very common, but there are many different kinds so you want to get the one in the recipe and get the right amount.

 

[fatman]

For the sake of being an all grain noob, the beer has been in the primary for a week and went through a strong fermentation. So I figured I would take a density reading and its at a healthy 1.016. The OG was 1.071. So I pat myself and the yeasties on the back. Than I looked at the beer in the tube thirstily and gave it a taste. It wasnt horrible nor was it delicious. It almost had a wineish taste to it. Although the hop flavor is there. I dont know what a sour beer tastes like so I cant compare it to that. But I feel that it is not right. Did I do something wrong? Is there anything I can do at this point?

Thanks.

 

[jim_reaper1066]

leave it for the remaining week, dry hop for a week, then bottle. After 4 weeks in the bottle this came out amazing, and was a completely different beer from the sample at bottling time. Im big fan of letting beer age before drinking and this is one that really benefits from ageing. I'll be putting this on again tomorrow night, cant wait!

 

[Yooper]

For the sake of being an all grain noob, the beer has been in the primary for a week and went through a strong fermentation. So I figured I would take a density reading and its at a healthy 1.016. The OG was 1.071. So I pat myself and the yeasties on the back. Than I looked at the beer in the tube thirstily and gave it a taste. It wasnt horrible nor was it delicious. It almost had a wineish taste to it. Although the hop flavor is there. I dont know what a sour beer tastes like so I cant compare it to that. But I feel that it is not right. Did I do something wrong? Is there anything I can do at this point?

Thanks.

Since it's a pretty "big" beer, if fermentation was very active or if it was in a warm (above 65 degrees) place, you may have had a high temperature fermentation. If the fermenting beer got above 72 degrees or so, you could have some fusel alcohols and that could explain that "wineish" taste. Fermenting in the summer is tricky- sometimes it's hard to keep the fermenting beer under 68 degrees.

 

[fatman]

Since it's a pretty "big" beer, if fermentation was very active or if it was in a warm (above 65 degrees) place, you may have had a high temperature fermentation. If the fermenting beer got above 72 degrees or so, you could have some fusel alcohols and that could explain that "wineish" taste. Fermenting in the summer is tricky- sometimes it's hard to keep the fermenting beer under 68 degrees.

What is the proper temp for fermentation? Beersmith said 63, was that correct? I also used WL0001 for yeast, the temp range for that yeast was 68-73. I stayed in the bottem end of the range. My LHBS only carries white labs.

 

[Yooper]

What is the proper temp for fermentation? Beersmith said 63, was that correct? I also used WL0001 for yeast, the temp range for that yeast was 68-73. I stayed in the bottem end of the range. My LHBS only carries white labs.

I do like to ferment at 62-66 degrees (beer temperature, not room temperature) so the room I use is generally about 4-5 degrees cooler than my desired fermentation temperature. I think a "clean" yeast flavor works best in IPAs.

At 63 degrees, you shouldn't have any "wine" tastes to it. Maybe it just tastes a little "hot" because it's young, though.

 

[fatman]

I am learning the ways, So next time I will stick to the recipe and stay with the temps you called for. I am using an ale pale for the primary and I drew the sample from the spigot on the bottom. I wonder if it tasted that way because I drew from the bottom and got much sediment. I Will let it sit for the remainder of the week and then transfer to secondary. This is my first beer in over 7 years so I forgot what beers were supposed to taste like along the way of the process. It did not taste like "vinegar" Just slightly winish.

 

[Yooper]

I am learning the ways, So next time I will stick to the recipe and stay with the temps you called for. I am using an ale pale for the primary and I drew the sample from the spigot on the bottom. I wonder if it tasted that way because I drew from the bottom and got much sediment. I Will let it sit for the remainder of the week and then transfer to secondary. This is my first beer in over 7 years so I forgot what beers were supposed to taste like along the way of the process. It did not taste like "vinegar" Just slightly winish.

Oh, no, no! I'm no expert on the temperature of all yeast strains! I didn't mean to imply that you had to do it my way or the beer wouldn't be great. On the contrary, I think you're doing fine.

What often happens, especially now that it's summer, some brewers forget about how important temperature control is, and the difference in the same beer fermented in the winter at cool temperatures, and in the summer if there is no temperature control.

In my experience, most American ale yeast strains taste "cleaner" at the lower range of the temperature range given by the manufacturers. However, I've used WLP001 at 62 degrees with good results. I don't usually recommend ignoring the manufacturer's recommended range, though. I was just trying (badly, I think!) to point out to others who may be reading this thread that 73 degrees for the highest temperature for that yeast doesn't mean a room temperature of 73 degrees, but instead that should be the highest temperature of the fermenting beer. That's sometimes not clear to newer brewers, so I tried to be specific.

Even at 72 degrees, I have had some fruitiness that I didn't like with that strain, so I now ferment it cooler. That only works if a big enough starter is made, since the yeast tend to get a bit sleepy at lower temperatures.

 

[fatman]

To control the temps I do have a stand up freezer fermenter with a loves controller. The thermistor is in a tall glass of water so my water temp is at 66-69 degrees at all times. So I can control the temps here in Hawaii, I have to since my garage is very warm. I really hope it turns out good I think I am just paranoid.

 

[fatman]

Even at 72 degrees, I have had some fruitiness that I didn't like with that strain, so I now ferment it cooler. That only works if a big enough starter is made, since the yeast tend to get a bit sleepy at lower temperatures.

I was paranoid at the lag of the yeast too in the beginning because I pitched it cold like a doof, plus my LHBS guy said the temp needed to be higher than I was at. So I followed his advise and rose it to 67 - 68.

 

[IPAAAA]

If you are making a 10 gallon batch would it be correct to assume to just double the ingredient amount that is used for the 5 gallon batch?