American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

[buckeyebrew]

Ok, running to the store now to get ingredients, doing the extract going to use nottingham yeast ale, problem is that it says 3 gallon boil in the recipe, my pot will only boil 2 gallons should i increase my boiling time due to this, or will splitting the time up when i add the dme to 1/2 at beginning 1/2 at flameout be enough? thanks in advance!

 

[thesanch]

I'm getting ready to brew this for my first all grain batch in a couple weeks (YAY!) and I was curious what water adjustments if any people are making. I have been using RO/Distilled water for my extract batches, but know this is won't work for all grain. I was just planning on buying some general store brand spring water and see how that turns out. Still curious as to what others are using.

 

[buckeyebrew]

I just did this tonight with regular tap water no adjustment we will see shorty i did it all extract though, the ****** at the store i think gave me a darker extract than extra light extract will this have an affect on the flavor?......also i only use 9lbs lme instead of the 9.9 that has been recommended, the og taken tonight was just over 1.5 would this be caused by using less extract? thanks!

 

[Yooper]

I'm getting ready to brew this for my first all grain batch in a couple weeks (YAY!) and I was curious what water adjustments if any people are making. I have been using RO/Distilled water for my extract batches, but know this is won't work for all grain. I was just planning on buying some general store brand spring water and see how that turns out. Still curious as to what others are using.

That'll work. Unless you know your water profile, it's better to not adjust the water. If all of your beers taste fine with spring water, that's what I'd use.

I just did this tonight with regular tap water no adjustment we will see shorty i did it all extract though, the ****** at the store i think gave me a darker extract than extra light extract will this have an affect on the flavor?......also i only use 9lbs lme instead of the 9.9 that has been recommended, the og taken tonight was just over 1.5 would this be caused by using less extract? thanks!

It might. If the extract is darker, it has crystal already in it. You may notice a sweeter end flavor. It really depends on the type of extract. If it's "light", that's a lot different than "dark" or "amber". It'll still be good, but not the same recipe. I take it you meant your OG was 1.050? That's way low. I don't think it's possible with 9 pounds of LME. Maybe the top off water wasnt mixed up well enough with the boiled wort, or you add more water to take you over 6 gallons.

 

[buckeyebrew]

yeah i did add about 3.5-3 gallons of water its still cooling so i will take it again should i give it a good stir to get a more accurate og reading?

 

[HalfPint]

Alright, this recipe looks awesome. I'm thinking about making it with Wyeast 1099-Whitbread. What do you guys think?

 

[Niederhofer]

Yooper,

I know you have posted the basic extract recipe a couple of time in a .bsm, but since I do not have the software would it be possible for you to email the .txt file to [email protected]? I am relitively new to brewing, and need more detailed in instructions than the one in the #27/#29 posts. Thanks!

 

[bmckee56]

I just put my batch into the refrigerator last night. I will allow at least a week to carbonate properly then open up my tap faucet and sample. Can't wait, but I will.

Thanks for the original recipe Yooper. I modified it a bit, but I am certain it will be a fantastic beer when it is fully carbed.

Salute!

 

[Yooper]

Yooper,

I know you have posted the basic extract recipe a couple of time in a .bsm, but since I do not have the software would it be possible for you to email the .txt file to [email protected]? I am relitively new to brewing, and need more detailed in instructions than the one in the #27/#29 posts. Thanks!

Let me know if you have any questions!

 

[bmckee56]

WOW! Talk about hops presence. This brew is definately going to be on my favorites list from now on. I love it! I need to make a few adjustments though.

I did not use any fining in my recipe and it shows. The beer pours very well, lacing is excellant, color is golden, head retention is nice. It is cloudy (Beligian Wit like). I had hoped that after the first few pints it would clear, but it does not appear it is going to. Possibly with more time, but I am okay with the results thus far. I had considered filtering, but decided against it for the first go at this recipe.

I used all Maris Otter instead of American Two Row, so the malt flavor is definately higher and it might just be a bit sweeter than it should be, but again, I can live with it for this batch.

So I plan to get a second batch of this going soon and will adjust my adapted recipe based upon my results for this batch.

Question: If I increased the bittering hops and boiled for 90 minutes, would this then be considered a DFH 90 IPA Clone? What other modifications might need to be made to get to that level?

Salute!

 

[Yooper]

Question: If I increased the bittering hops and boiled for 90 minutes, would this then be considered a DFH 90 IPA Clone? What other modifications might need to be made to get to that level?

Salute!

I've never made the 90 Min clone, but I know several others have. The first thing that comes to my mind is it's much bigger than the 60 minute. Higher OG, more malt, more hops. I would even consider boosting it with corn sugar, but the original tastes pretty sweet to me so all malt would be ok, too. You could find out the ABV of the 90 minute, and use enough 2-row and maybe a pound or two of corn sugar to get you to the OG you'd need. You could scale up the hopping- making sure that you had enough hops especially for the bittering. I'd probably add all of the bittering hops between 90 and 60 minutes, to ensure there was enough bittering, but still use the flavor/aroma hops near the end, from 35 minutes on.

 

[bmckee56]

Thanks Yooper. Your suggestions sound good. Actually what I have after using the Maris Otter is believe it or not tasting quite close to the 90 minute. There is a local brewpub here in Pittsburgh that keeps 90 minute in stock (bottles) I had three bottles in the refrigerator and sampled one next to my batch and it is not exactly the same, but similar in many ways.

Anyway, I might have an opportunity sometime in the near future to try a 90 version. As for the 60 minute clone........

Salute!

 

[flananuts]

Has anyone here done DFH 60min recipe with Safale US-05? I'm in the process of freezing some of this strain for further use and would like to try it with this one. Anyone have any negative effects?

 

[FreakinA]

I just brewed a version of this for my first all grain brew today.
13lb pale malt
6 oz amber
.7oz warrior 60-35
.3oz magnum 35-25
.7 oz palisade 25-0
.3 oz palisade flamout
.3 oz warrior flamout.

It was my first all grain, havent calculated efficiency and stuff yet but OG was 1.059.

 

[thesanch]

FrekinA,

1.059 sounds pretty low. I just brewed this for my first all grain too! Here was my recipe for a 3.5 gallon batch (in a 5 gallon kettle).

9.1 # Pale Malt 2-row
.26 # Amber Malt
.5 oz Warrior 60-35
.3 oz Amarillo 35-5
.3 oz Simcoe 35-5

I ended up pretty close to 3.5 gallons with an OG of 1.067, making my efficiency ~69% into the fementer.

I had another poster here look at a picture of my crush and comment that my efficiency was low due to the crush. I had my grain crushed at the LBS. They have business reasons for not crushing the grain well enough to achieve 80% efficiency.

But quite honestly, I don't care that I didn't hit my numbers. The wort tasted so delicious! I just know this is going to be and awesome beer.

BTW, FermCapS is amazing!


Here are some pics from my brew day:

 

[Yooper]

Has anyone here done DFH 60min recipe with Safale US-05? I'm in the process of freezing some of this strain for further use and would like to try it with this one. Anyone have any negative effects?

I have. I've used just about every clean, well-attenuating US strain for this, and they've all been great! As long as you keep the fermentation cool, you won't notice the yeast.

 

[FreakinA]

Yeah it is lower then I wanted, I am going to do Ed's Haus Pale this weekend to help me get efficiency numbers, I was more concerned with just sort of actually doing the all grain brew this time. Im not sure I am too low, I got the recipe from BYO and copied it near exactly. Their OG was listed at 1.064 and mine came in at 1.059-1.060 So while i did move the hops very slightly more toward aroma to compensate, I think it should be pretty similar.

edit: I went back and looked at Yoopers original numbers. I am about .01 off her OG of 1.070. Efficiency question: When I was cleaning out my MLT after the brew I noticed that is was still pretty wet and more wort was left in there. Do to poor planning by me I was already boiling and think I could have collected more. The Gravity coming out of the MLT was about 1.040 still, so Im betting I should have collected this and jsut boiled off a bit more to hit a better gravity. Thoughts?

 

[BriBrew]

Long time reader first time post..... Quick question from a relative noob. I thought i had a half pound of amber malt, but instead i only have a quarter. Could i use a crystal 60 or roasted barley on hand to make up the differance? Which would be preferable?

Thanks again all for the advice. Great site. Much appreciated.

 

[Yooper]

Long time reader first time post..... Quick question from a relative noob. I thought i had a half pound of amber malt, but instead i only have a quarter. Could i use a crystal 60 or roasted barley on hand to make up the differance? Which would be preferable?

Thanks again all for the advice. Great site. Much appreciated.

I wouldn't use the roasted, but I'm not a roasted barley fan anyway. A little crystal would be fine.

 

[JohnnyO]

Thanks Yooper for the recipe. I brewed this today using the Wyeast American Ale - 1056. Brewmasters Warehouse was out of the White Labs, so we substituted this for it.

What was planned as a brew day turned into a brew evening for life circumstances.

I also had to wait about an hour between mash/sparge to boil because I had to pick up my wife from work earlier than planned. Not sure of the negative effects of this, but I hope its not too bad.

Also, I still have to get more comfortable with Beer Smith and/or configure it better to my system because there was a miscalculation with the amount of mash and sparge water volume I need to use. I only ended up with about 4.75 gallons in my primary and had to top off.

In addition, I got a low OG at 1.066. Not the greatest of brew days, but I'm sure I'll have some decent beer on the other end.

Thanks again Yooper!!

 

[bmckee56]

Have had my beer on tap for a bit of time now and I am very pleased with it (here it comes), BUT the hops aroma that was so obvious when I first tapped the keg and started drinking is fading. The hops bitterness and flavor are there, it's just the aroma seems to have diminished.

Is this something that typically occurs as the beer ages or is something happening that I had not anticipated?

I have some cascade hops (Pellets) that I occasionally drop into a pint to kick up the aroma and flavor, but I have not done this yet with this beer. As I said, the bitterness and flavor are fine now, but I miss the noticable hops aroma.

Salute!

 

[HalfPint]

Have had my beer on tap for a bit of time now and I am very pleased with it (here it comes), BUT the hops aroma that was so obvious when I first tapped the keg and started drinking is fading. The hops bitterness and flavor are there, it's just the aroma seems to have diminished.

Is this something that typically occurs as the beer ages or is something happening that I had not anticipated?

I have some cascade hops (Pellets) that I occasionally drop into a pint to kick up the aroma and flavor, but I have not done this yet with this beer. As I said, the bitterness and flavor are fine now, but I miss the noticable hops aroma.

Salute!

Yeah, that's typical with a beer of this style. The beer does get more delicious with age IMO, but the longer you age the more the aroma will fade.

I typically like to drink a pale ale quite green. Usually I'll tap them within a month of brew day with a bit of dry hops in the keg.

 

[Tylerjames]

ok, some people have asked me to post the conversion with LME. This is what I came up with:

BeerSmith Recipe Printout - www.beersmith.com
Recipe: Copy of Dogfish Head 60 Clone
Brewer: Lorena
Asst Brewer:
Style: India Pale Ale
TYPE: Extract
Taste: (35.0)

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 2.43 gal
Estimated OG: 1.072 SG
Estimated Color: 13.1 SRM
Estimated IBU: 49.7 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: - %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
9 lbs 14.4 oz Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 %
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -
1.25 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (60 min) Hops 26.6 IBU
0.50 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (35 min) Hops 10.0 IBU
1.00 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (30 min) Hops 13.1 IBU


Mash Schedule: None
Total Grain Weight: 9.70 lb
----------------------------
Steep grains as desired (30-60 minutes)


Notes:
------
Pacman yeast used. Hops were added as continous- first warrior for the first 25 minutes, then all mixed continuosly at 35 minutes.

so i just brewed this a week ago and am about to rack to the secondary. i had a question about dry hopping for 3 days. i had planned to let the beer sit in the secondary for at least 2 weeks. Should i wait to add the hops untill 3 days before i bottle or should i dry hop for 2 weeks?

also do i hop with the Simcoe and Amarillo at the same time or 3 days for one then 3 days again for the other.


sorry for all the questions it's my second brew.

thank you

 

[Yooper]

Actually, it's fine to dry hop that for a week or 10 days. What I would probably do is just go ahead and rack it onto the hops. You could rack it, and then wait a few days before adding the drop hops, too, if you want to let it clear a bit.

 

[Yooper]

I just edited the original post. I had my notes in there, but it seemed confusing a couple of years later!

I have this in primary right now, fermenting at 63 degrees with pacman yeast. It's on tap as often as possible in the Yooper house.

 

[flananuts]

I ferment in the basement and it is a solid 70 degrees in the winter time. What potentially negative effects will I have fermenting with pac man at 70 degrees? I've not yet convinced SWMBO that I need yet another freezer to convert to a ferm chamber...

 

[Yooper]

I ferment in the basement and it is a solid 70 degrees in the winter time. What potentially negative effects will I have fermenting with pac man at 70 degrees? I've not yet convinced SWMBO that I need yet another freezer to convert to a ferm chamber...

Well, if the room temperature is 70 degrees, it could be as much as 8-10 degrees warmer for the fermenting beer, since fermentation produces heat. That's too hot for any ale yeast. If you can use a swamp cooler, or another way to keep the temperature (of the beer, not the room) under 72 degrees, you could use S05 with good results for dry, and WLP001, or Wyeast 1056 for liquid yeast. I've never used pacman warmer than about 64-65, so I don't know for sure, but it might be fine at 70.

 

[flananuts]

I'll let the thread know how it comes out. All my ales are fermented this way and I'm about to start pouring a winter spice ale that used S05. Looks like it's time to start to building out a fermentation chamber for multiple carboys

 

[shohog]

This looks like a very popular brew. I just purchased your exact list of ingredients included on the first post. However I will be using WLP001 yeast. I plan on brewing this next weekend. I have some questions.
1. When purchasing the grains at my LHBS the owner was wondering why in the heck I would bother with just 6oz Marris Otter with 13 lbs of 2 row. I am pretty new still at AG and I thought it seemed like an insignificant amount but trust your judgements. Could you explain why such a low ratio?
2. When entering the recipe into Beer Smith, I entered the 0.75oz of Warrior hops for a 48 min. boil. If you begin inserting the Warrior pellets at 60 min. and you finish 25 min later then the average length of time from start to finish would be 47.5 min since you are not boiling all 0.75 oz of warrior hops for 60 min as you indicated in your recipe. Doing the same with rest of the hops from 35 min to 0 min, the ave time would be 17.5 min ave boil time. Thus, the IBU calculated is only 48, much less than your calc. Would you exlpain why this is different from your 60 ibu calculation?
Thanks and I have read every entry in this thread before asking but didnt see the answer.

 

[Yooper]

1. I used amber malt, which is much stronger flavored than MO. I got the grain bill from another recipe, and often use amber malt or aromatic malt. But, really, it's not the significant but I like the flavor of 6-8 ounces amber malt.

2. It's hard to determine the exact IBUs with continuous hopping. I don't sweat it too much- I just like the beer. I just put them down as the 60 minute, 35 minute, and 30 minute boil additions, realizing that the IBUs will be less.