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Do campden tablets de-chlorinate water

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How did you come up with 1/8 tsp of potassium metabisulfite for 15 gallons of water, King of Cascade? Also since the molecular weight of potassium and sodium metabisulfite are different (222.32 for K2S2O5, and 190.13 for NA2S2O5), do you happen to know how to calculate how much would be required for sodium metabisulfite?

By the way, my local water supply averages 2.4 ppm residual chlorine, with min and max of 1 and 4 ppm. The water report doesn't mention chloramine.
 
Just a warning about BYO's Wizard.

I don't have it in front of me, but in one article he recommends half an ounce of metabisulfite per 10-20 gallons of water to remove chlorine; it should be half a campden tablet (about 250 mg).
 
You don't even need to let it sit for a while. According to Palmer, the reaction between the campden tablet and chlorine/chloramine is nearly instantaneous. I just crush up the tablet between two spoons and dissolve it in my brew water as it is heating. Easy and works great.
It was my understanding that it was nearly instantaneous too but the latest issue of BYO mentions to use campden tables to treat the water the day before to give the gas time to escape (and to not taste the water immediately after adding).

I did try tasting my 20 gallons of strike water ~15 minutes after adding a campden tablet after the last time I brewed and it has a noticeable sulphur taste.

Kal
 
After the boil and 3-4 week fermentation there will be none left. I have 2 beers on tap right now that I used campden in. Neither exhibit any chlorophenols or sulfur taste.
 
After the boil and 3-4 week fermentation there will be none left. I have 2 beers on tap right now that I used campden in. Neither exhibit any chlorophenols or sulfur taste.
That's my experience too and why I do it the way I do... just curious why BYO would say you need to do it the day before. Odd.

Kal
 
Anyone have any idea how adding a campden tablet affects the minerals/salts in water?

I measured the pH of my city water at 9.2, then added 1 crushed campden tablet to 20 gallons and 5 minutes later the pH was down to 8. So there's definitely something going on there!

Kal
 
Anyone have any idea how adding a campden tablet affects the minerals/salts in water?

I measured the pH of my city water at 9.2, then added 1 crushed campden tablet to 20 gallons and 5 minutes later the pH was down to 8. So there's definitely something going on there!

Kal

Can anyone else speak to this? Do I need to adjust my water spreadsheet if there is campden in the mix?
 
are you guys still adding 1 tablet per gallon even if its to dechlorinate strike/sparge water?

i need to use these tommorow and i will need ~8-10 Gal of water for the brew. the bottle of campden tabs doesnt give any directions as to how many to use..

i was planning on filling two 5 Gallon buckets of my regular chlorinated tap water and adding the tabs to those. then fill my HLT with that water for the strike water shortly after.

does this all sound kosher to you folks?
 
are you guys still adding 1 tablet per gallon even if its to dechlorinate strike/sparge water?
1 tablet per 20 gallons, not 1 tablet per gallon.

And yes, all your water that gets used for making beer should be removed of any chlorine or chloramines.

1 tablet in 20 gallons of water will get rid of ~2 ppm chlorine or chloramine. No need to use more.

Kal
 
perfect, thank you guys.

about to start my variant of Eds Haus Pale.

I am CONVINCED this is the reason my brews have been plagued with a very noticeable plastic-y taste. my tap water (same water ive been using to brew with) tastes heavily of chlorine.

hopefully this is the cure ive been looking for for so long...
 
I consider myself a noob still, having only been brewing for 5 months or so. I've got about 10 batches under my belt, with at least 6 of them being all grains. I have yet to include a campden tablet or any adjustment to the tap water that I've used for my beers. I have no idea what the water profile is for my tap water, but I haven't made a beer yet, that I haven't liked. I've made pilsners, wits, pale ales, and an IPAs, to name a few.

It took a me a while to hit my target OG, but I've finally got my efficiency set at 65% (pretty low, I know), but it works for me. I've been debating about getting some 5.2 and/or campden tablets to see if I can get more efficiency, but at the same time, I think this might just be a psychological victory I need to win, just to prove my worth as a beginning brewer.

Maybe I don't have the pallet to identify the subtleties of brewing, or maybe I can continue living in my blissful ignorance. I'd prefer to keep brewing a fun and relaxing hobby, instead of creating a laboratory environment of number crunching calculations and experimenting. I've already got a stressful occupation, I'm not looking for another.

Are the benefits of water profiles and adjustments worth my time, or will I even notice the extra effort in my beers?
 
Are the benefits of water profiles and adjustments worth my time, or will I even notice the extra effort in my beers?
That depends on the beers you brew and the composition of the water you're using now.

Once all that is known, whether it's worth your time and if you'll notice a difference is not something others can answer for you.

Campden tablets will not affect your efficiency. It's a taste thing.

Kal
 
Okay, this may be heresy and y'all may run me out of town, but...I dechlorinate and dechloramine my brewing water with aquarium water conditioner drops...never had a problem.
 
I use a 1/4 tablet for my brews. This is for my mash and sparge water which is usually about 8 gallons. Propane is too expensive for me to boil for an hour or more BEFORE starting.
 
One tablet is supposed to be 0.44g, not sure how much is filler/binder. I'm guessing not much. I assume it's all kmet when I weigh it.

The only issue I have with charcoal filters is the need to test the effluent for chloramines. I bought a cheaper kit awhile ago and it's quite useless - does not detect the levels of chloramines that my water company says are in the water. I can taste it in the water however.
 
Okay, this may be heresy and y'all may run me out of town, but...I dechlorinate and dechloramine my brewing water with aquarium water conditioner drops...never had a problem.

Do you know what's in it? Maybe, it's the same as Campden tablets?
 
Do you know what's in it? Maybe, it's the same as Campden tablets?

The label says sodium thiosulfate and EDTA terrasodium salt. Six drops per gallon to break the chloramine bond and remove chlorine. Costs about $3.00 per bottle at PetSmart and lasts 25 or so batches.
Again, it may not be "best practice", but it has always worked for me (and the fish).
 
The label says sodium thiosulfate and EDTA terrasodium salt. Six drops per gallon to break the chloramine bond and remove chlorine. Costs about $3.00 per bottle at PetSmart and lasts 25 or so batches.
Again, it may not be "best practice", but it has always worked for me )and the fish).

I'm no chemist, but I would guess it's safe since fish are very sensitive to water conditions. I had a marine tank years ago and if the water isn't right, they start to die.
 
I'm no chemist, but I would guess it's safe since fish are very sensitive to water conditions. I had a marine tank years ago and if the water isn't right, they start to die.

Chemistry is the weakest part of my brewing skillset. The bottle is labeled "Tap Water Conditioner". It says safe for fresh water and
salt water. I have a tank full of African Chiclids (Bi-Color 500s) that are now in their 8th generation using this water treatment. I have to assume it is okay for beer too.
 
The label says sodium thiosulfate and EDTA terrasodium salt. Six drops per gallon to break the chloramine bond and remove chlorine. Costs about $3.00 per bottle at PetSmart and lasts 25 or so batches.
Again, it may not be "best practice", but it has always worked for me (and the fish).

I'm no chemist, but I would guess it's safe since fish are very sensitive to water conditions. I had a marine tank years ago and if the water isn't right, they start to die.

Chemistry is the weakest part of my brewing skillset. The bottle is labeled "Tap Water Conditioner". It says safe for fresh water and
salt water. I have a tank full of African Chiclids (Bi-Color 500s) that are now in their 8th generation using this water treatment. I have to assume it is okay for beer too.

Keep in mind that most chemicals sold for the aquarium industry are usually not labeled for use on food fish or fish that may enter the food chain. I personally wouldn't use them for anything I'm going to consume.
 
Keep in mind that most chemicals sold for the aquarium industry are usually not labeled for use on food fish or fish that may enter the food chain. I personally wouldn't use them for anything I'm going to consume.

Good point, but at what concentration is it harmful? I don't know what the concentration is when used at the recommended dosage. The MSDS for sodium thiosulfate seems to indicate it is less toxic than chlorine. However I could find nothing that either approves or prohibits consumption by humans. Perhaps we have a chemist or physician on the forum who could weigh in.
 
.

Please don't use Fish Tank DeChlor products in your Beer!
Sodium thiosulfate is maybe a mostly harmless chemical in itself (MDMS isn't too bad) BUT... and this is the big one: it's frequently manufactured from industrial leftovers produced from the manufacture of Sulfur based Dye (did I mention: Industrial waste???).

Have you asked your fish how they feel? :rockin:
Mine would never answer my questions, I think they are a little slow now. Could it be the DeChlor? I don't want to find out!

Campden tablets are cheap: can be found for ~10$ per pound.

To Treat drinking water for Chlorine or Chloramine:
Use 1/4 Campden tablet per 5gallons H20.
That is: 1 tablet treats 20 gallons
You'll find some posts that indicate other quantities... trust me, it's 1/4 tablet per 5 gal. There was much confusion over this in the recent past due to some bad source material (can't recall the source). Using campden tabs in Wine is a different story btw.



- M

p.s. No fish were harmed in the making of this public service announcement. Have you called your mom lately?
 
Rip said:
.

Please don't use Fish Tank DeChlor products in your Beer!
Sodium thiosulfate is maybe a mostly harmless chemical in itself (MDMS isn't too bad) BUT... and this is the big one: it's frequently manufactured from industrial leftovers produced from the manufacture of Sulfur based Dye (did I mention: Industrial waste???).

Have you asked your fish how they feel? :rockin:
Mine would never answer my questions, I think they are a little slow now. Could it be the DeChlor? I don't want to find out!

Campden tablets are cheap: can be found for ~10$ per pound.

To Treat drinking water for Chlorine or Chloramine:
Use 1/4 Campden tablet per 5gallons H20.
That is: 1 tablet treats 20 gallons
You'll find some posts that indicate other quantities... trust me, it's 1/4 tablet per 5 gal. There was much confusion over this in the recent past due to some bad source material (can't recall the source). Using campden tabs in Wine is a different story btw.

- M

p.s. No fish were harmed in the making of this public service announcement. Have you called your mom lately?

I've never had a problem with fish and aquarium dechlor products, and most saltwater fish are a helluva lot more susceptible to chemicals than people are.

Nitrates greater than 10 ppm stresses them out, whereas I can drink water with 10 ppm of nitrates my whole life and never have a problem.

The different between poison and medicine is in the dosage. I'm not 100% sure what aquarium dechlor is made out of, but I know it gives off a sulfur smell when used, similar to campden.

I've thought about using it, but ended up just buying k-meta
 
Sorry if I came off like firemarshall bill there.
You might have a valid point... only a few drops are used. I noticed you went to the meta anyhow tho. Yeah me too.

"Try my IIPA, It has a few drops of industrial byproduct in it... nothing to worry about."
:rolleyes:



Mike
 
Rip said:
Sorry if I came off like firemarshall bill there.
You might have a valid point... only a few drops are used. I noticed you went to the meta anyhow tho. Yeah me too.

"Try my IIPA, It has a few drops of industrial byproduct in it... nothing to worry about."
:rolleyes:

Mike

The k-meta is cheaper than the aquarium dechlor. Id probably use it in a pinch, if I had to, but it's cheaper to use the campden.
 
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