DIY Sight Glasses?

[modenacart]

Just recieved my two sight glasses from Bobby M. They look really good, I am sure I am going to be very happy with them. Much better than the ghetto rig I was using.

 

[modenacart]

Bobby M, how do you mark your sightglasses?

 

[Isley]

No epoxy... Use a compression fitting with either a nylon ferrule or Orings instead of a ferrule. Something like this:

Only you wouldn't leave the metal ferrule in there but rather pack 2 or 3 Orings in behind the nut. You tighten the nut, it compresses the Orings, making a nice seal and completely removable. They do make nylon ferrules that look like that metal one but I've never tried it.

Happen to have a part number for that compression fitting?

I found a SS one on McMaster (8239K39) but it was a little over $30. Are there less expensive SS ones out there or is this just what they cost?

 

[Bobby_M]

Stainless Steel Fittings is the cheapest I've found retail. I found a few large lots on Ebay for a more reasonable price if you wait patiently but these things are pretty top shelf.

 

[ascha]

You can step it up a notch by using nice thickwall polycarbonate from Mcmaster or Usplastics.com

Is Polycarbonate Tubing flexible like vinyl tubing or stiff like a pvc pipe

 

[Bobby_M]

Closer to pvc.

 

[ascha]

is there a need to secure the top by attaching it to the bk?

 

[mmurray]

[URL="http://www.mcmaster.com/#gauge-glass/=a8hbll"]http://www.mcmaster.com/#gauge-glass/=a8hbll[/URL]

Wish me luck... I was worried about the tubes melting so I decided to go with 1/2" pyrex glass tubes and connect them in the same fasion as BobbyM did, but I left the metal furrel out and I'm planning on either using a nylon furrel or doubling up the o-rings. Haven't used it yet, but I've got them sitting here waiting for me to finish my keggles.

 

[Bobby_M]

is there a need to secure the top by attaching it to the bk?

Yes, no matter what material you use, you don't want a 20" lever to snag on.

 

[Bobby_M]

[URL="http://www.mcmaster.com/#gauge-glass/=a8hbll"]http://www.mcmaster.com/#gauge-glass/=a8hbll[/URL]

Wish me luck... I was worried about the tubes melting so I decided to go with 1/2" pyrex glass tubes and connect them in the same fasion as BobbyM did, but I left the metal furrel out and I'm planning on either using a nylon furrel or doubling up the o-rings. Haven't used it yet, but I've got them sitting here waiting for me to finish my keggles.

If you don't have a plan for shrouding or otherwise protecting the glass from damage, they won't last long at all.

 

[jasonsbeer]

http://www.fyurl.com/rr.php?c=2&sit...=http://www.mcmaster.com/#pyrex-glass/=a8hf5mhttp://www.mcmaster.com/#gauge-glass/=a8hbll

Wish me luck... I was worried about the tubes melting so I decided to go with 1/2" pyrex glass tubes and connect them in the same fasion as BobbyM did, but I left the metal furrel out and I'm planning on either using a nylon furrel or doubling up the o-rings. Haven't used it yet, but I've got them sitting here waiting for me to finish my keggles.

I've been using the McMaster polycarbonate tubes part # 9176T12 on my HLT and BK with no trouble. They are attached with simple brass compression fittings. Best of all, no shroud required.

 

[mmurray]

If you don't have a plan for shrouding or otherwise protecting the glass from damage, they won't last long at all.

My plan was... To be VERY CAREFUL! LOL....

Actually I have the shipping container and foam packaging... I'll break them down to clean and to store the glass after each use. By not leaving them attached to the keggles I hope they'll last. I also have given thought to protective sheilding... possibly rigid copper with a "window" cut out to see the glass. So we'll see.... again... wish me luck!

 

[stlbeer]

I also have given thought to protective sheilding... possibly rigid copper with a "window" cut out to see the glass. So we'll see.... again... wish me luck!

A fellow brewer used the spear from his keggle as a shroud for his sight glass. It's big around enough that if it gets hit there won't be any damage to the glass tube. Just a thought.

 

[mmurray]

A fellow brewer used the spear from his keggle as a shroud for his sight glass. It's big around enough that if it gets hit there won't be any damage to the glass tube. Just a thought.

Curses!!! Where was this suggestion before I tossed the Sanke Dip tube?

 

[Bobby_M]

Yeah, I used spear as protection on mine. I would NEVER brew with an exposed glass on the rig. One bump and your batch is on the floor.

 

[r8rphan]

Thanks for this thread.. A sight glass is on my 'to get' short list...

B3 sells this fitting for $25.. I want to use the same bulkhead fitting for both the sight glass and my thermometer (4" probe)..

Anyone know where I can get a fitting that does what the B3 fitting does for less than what they charge? I guess it needs to have a 1/2" hole (as opposed to the 3/8") for use with the polycarbonate sight glass though, or does it?

 

[Bobby_M]

For 1/2", bargainfittings.com sells a 1/2" tee based bulkhead. My kits use 1/4" NPT parts so I can't help you out there.

 

[r8rphan]

For 1/2", bargainfittings.com sells a 1/2" tee based bulkhead. My kits use 1/4" NPT parts so I can't help you out there.

I'm a little confused here.. You use 1/4" NPT fittings, with 1/2" polycarbonate tubing?

How does that work? Are you using reducing bushings or something?

 

[Bobby_M]

Yup, 1/4" NPT fittings, 1/4" NPT thermo back, 1/2" OD polycarbonate.

 

[r8rphan]

Yup, 1/4" NPT fittings, 1/4" NPT thermo back, 1/2" OD polycarbonate.

You sell these?

 

[r8rphan]

How is the sight glass connected? I see no compression fitting, so either it's threaded or glued...

Can the polycarbonate tubing be threaded?

 

[Bobby_M]

It's threaded, yes I sell them, see the link in my sig.

 

[r8rphan]

Nice site! I appreciate the ability to choose text size on your pages..

So that thing will not accept a thermometer that has 1/2" NPT threads right (mine's currently a 3" face thermometer with a 4" probe, threaded into a 1/2" welded half coupling)

How far does the probe protrude into the keggle when installed?

I like the included marking tape too....

 

[ryan0914]

Hey bobby on your Sight/Thermometer how does the thermometer stick out of the fitting. I do brew in a bag and i was wondering if it would wort for me?

 

[Bobby_M]

Nice site! I appreciate the ability to choose text size on your pages..

So that thing will not accept a thermometer that has 1/2" NPT threads right (mine's currently a 3" face thermometer with a 4" probe, threaded into a 1/2" welded half coupling)

How far does the probe protrude into the keggle when installed?

I like the included marking tape too....

It sticks into the vessel by about 2".

Another way to go is to put a 1/2" close nipple into your half coupling, then thread a tee on. I have the SB kit that has 1/2" threads on a piece of tubing that will thread into the top port of the TEE and you are left with a port for your 1/2" thermometer. It's questionable however if you'll be left with enough probe length to get an accurate reading in the vessel after going through the tee, nipple, and coupling.

The easy alternative is to add my basic weldless elbow kit WLSL into a new hole.

 

[Bobby_M]

Hey bobby on your Sight/Thermometer how does the thermometer stick out of the fitting. I do brew in a bag and i was wondering if it would wort for me?

It would stick in about 2". I wonder if the probe would tear your bag? I really don't know.

 

[ryan0914]

Ya thats what i was thinking. I do have some extra room on the side of the pot but im thinking that it might tear ill have to see when i brew next. When do you think you'll be getting weld less fittings back in?

 

[r8rphan]

How much probe needs to stick into the kettle?

Ideally, I'd like to have very little actually sticking into the kettle, as I want to position the sight glass and thermo 90 degrees from the wort out fitting... I'm trying to make sure that I can put one of jaybirds folding FBs in there and still be able to remove it without having to put a wrench in there and remove the entire compression fitting from the bulkhead fitting.. just loosen the compression nut and remove the dip tube and pull the FB out...

Currently, my thermo half coupling is in the wrong place for my needs, and since I have to move it anyways, I'm trying to kill two birds with one stone...

 

[r8rphan]

Bobby, you're thermometers are pretty accurate?

At this point, by the time I buy all the fittings and what not to make mine work, it just makes more sense to go with your ready to run rig.. especially by the time I consider the hassle of getting all the parts and making them work for me...

I'm not a huge fan of the whole weldless fitting idea though.. but I could deal with it for temporary.. For the long run, if I were to later weld a 1/4" coupling into the hole that I drilled to install the weldless setup, your fitting would screw directly in, or I would need to replace everything going into the tee with a standard 1/4" close nipple to thread into the newly wleded coupling?

Also, there'd still be enough probe left to protrude into the kettle, right? I can't imagine that a 1/4" SS coupling is very long...

 

[Bobby_M]

The thermos I use are accurate to +/- 1.5F and I find that pretty typical of bimetal dial thermometers. For the most part, I don't put absolute faith in any mechanical dial but rather use it as a ballpark indicator. I use a handheld digital instant read just before making any decisions to move water, etc.

On the weldless thing... I am known to condemn the heck out of traditional weldless setups but the design has a lot to do with it. When installed per instructions, my weldless sight kits do not leak, ever, period. I've sold over 500 and only had one leak report but it was because the hole was overdrilled to 5/8".

If you were extra paranoid, the easiest way to convert the weldless to welded is to weld the threaded piece in my kit to the inside of the vessel leaving the 1/4" male threads showing on the outside.

 

[TRex23]

Yup, 1/4" NPT fittings, 1/4" NPT thermo back, 1/2" OD polycarbonate.

Bobby -- Can I use this on my brew kettle with a Banjo Cooker or will I melt it? I plan on making a shroud like one shown on this site to keep the flame from blowing out and also to hold heat in. Will your sight glass melt and, if so, what can I do to prevent that from happening?

 

[Bobby_M]

It really varies from application to application. I always recommending paying real close attention the first time you fire it up. The easiest way to test if your "wrap-around" flame is overheating the assembly is to put a handheld thermometer, digital or otherwise, directly under the tee fitting and see how hot it reads. If it gets too much over 230F I'd start worrying about it. Polycarbonate starts getting soft at over 250F. Another indicator is that you'll get liquid boiling in the tubing.

The fix is a simple heat shield which can be as simple as hanging a piece of L-shaped aluminum step flashing (lowes roofing aisle, $60 cents or so) from the connection point so that a piece of aluminum is sitting under the assembly. I should probably make a video showing what I mean because it's way harder to describe in text.

If you're using a keg, and even more elegant solution is to attach a small metal shelf to the keg skirt with screws/nuts but putting a 90 degree bend in a piece of thin stainless sheet scrap.

 

[devilbrewer75]

I love my sightglasses, thanks Bobby. One of mine needs to be shortened about a half inch, what's the best way to cut them?