Diy hlt

[nolabrew85]

I have an old aluminum pot about 1/6 inch thick that would like turn into a hot liquor tank instead of buying another pot. I already have the hardwear to add the weldless ball valve once I get the hole drilled. I was just wondering how difficult it would be to drill a 1 inch hole in 1/6 inch aluminum pot. I have a handheld 18v drill and normal bits. I think if I was able to do it at all, I would need some other type of bit (if the bit is like $50, forget it, I will just buy an economy ss pot for $99 and save the trouble for the additional $50) Let me know what yall think. thanks.

 

[Ibrewaletx]

Try Brewershardware & the step bit. http://www.brewhardware.com/accessories/53-step-bits

 

[oldstyle69]

i used a step bit on mine, cost about 30bones....you could go cheaper and get a good 1" hole saw that will cut threw alum.

 

[JonathanS]

My experience with battery powered drills is that they do not have alot of torque and will stall out when drilling thick metal. Especially for using a step bit, I would recommend you use a corded drill with 1/2" chuck that is keyed (not tightened by hand). Aluminum is softer than stainless steel though, and you may have a higher quality 18v drill than my el-cheapo one.

I second the recommendation for using a step bit. It will make a very clean hole, and if you drill slowly you should get a tight fit with your weldless fitting. You don't want that hole to get too large or the o-rings will not seal.

I'm about to redo all the holes/fittings in a new pot since upgrading from a keg to a 25 gal stainless pot off amazon. Best of luck to you in your drilling.

 

[mkenitzer]

Yes a step or uni bit is the best way to get a clean cut hole. Will go through aluminum nice and softly. And as long as you don't apply a lot of downward pressure a 18v drill will work just fine. Just go slow.

 

[user 163849]

Not all 18 volt drills are created equal but I used my Dewalt 1/2" chuck 18 volt battery drill and an older Unibit (less than factory sharp) to drill my 3/16" thick aluminum pot. No problem at all.

 

[Bobby_M]

My experience with battery powered drills is that they do not have alot of torque and will stall out when drilling thick metal.

I'm aware of some cordless drills that don't have gear-select speed control, but I've always used DeWalt XRP series and they have enough torque to spin my arm out of my shoulder if I'm not careful.

In any case, aluminum is very easy to machine.

 

[k_mcarthur]

Yes a step or uni bit is the best way to get a clean cut hole. Will go through aluminum nice and softly. And as long as you don't apply a lot of downward pressure a 18v drill will work just fine. Just go slow.

I used a step bit to drill my first hlt, but for my new electric herms tank I sprung for radio punches. With step bits you have to stop exactly the right time, and you have to sand burs down to get a perfect hole. Radio punches make a precise perfect hole every time, only downside is price. $50-100 each depending on size, but a tool that will punch kettles and other projects for you and your friends for the rest of your life.

 

[nolabrew85]

I used a step bit to drill my first hlt, but for my new electric herms tank I sprung for radio punches. With step bits you have to stop exactly the right time, and you have to sand burs down to get a perfect hole. Radio punches make a precise perfect hole every time, only downside is price. $50-100 each depending on size, but a tool that will punch kettles and other projects for you and your friends for the rest of your life.

I have never even heard of a radio punch. I have learned about as much in the last couple years brewing about handy/DIY work brewing than I have in the rest of my 28 years. Thanks for all the advice. I already got the step but from brewhardware.com. I am worried about stopping at the exact time while drilling, but I guess I will just be super careful.

 

[nolabrew85]

Also, I have learned that upgrading and DIY become addictive with this hobby. Everytime I think I am done w the toys, I think of or see something else awesome.

 

[user 163849]

I have the chassis punches and that is what I planned to use. But I ended up opting for the tighter fit I could get by sneaking up on the exact size hole that I needed with the Unibit. My 1/2" conduit sized bit was slightly larger than needed for the 1/2 inch stainless nipple that I was using. Either would have worked just fine.

 

[k_mcarthur]

I have the chassis punches and that is what I planned to use. But I ended up opting for the tighter fit I could get by sneaking up on the exact size hole that I needed with the Unibit. My 1/2" conduit sized bit was slightly larger than needed for the 1/2 inch stainless nipple that I was using. Either would have worked just fine.

That is the exact purpose of the radio punches. A 1/2" chassis punch is actually 7/8". A 13/16" radio punch is exactly 13/16". If you ever punch a hole for a heating element the only way is with a 1 1/4" radio punch, FYI.

Edit: Chassis and radio punches are the same thing. Conduit knockout punches are bigger than nominal size, and chassis radio punches are the exact size.

 

[user 163849]

That is the exact purpose of the radio punches. A 1/2" chassis punch is actually 7/8". A 13/16" radio punch is exactly 13/16". If you ever punch a hole for a heating element the only way is with a 1 1/4" radio punch, FYI.

Edit: Chassis and radio punches are the same thing. Conduit knockout punches are bigger than nominal size, and chassis radio punches are the exact size.

Yes, I own both metric "radio" punches (by Hozan) and SAE conduit punches (by Greenlee) so I am aware of their similarities. The 1/2" conduit punch is exactly .885 inch according to Greenlee (closest fraction is 177/200 or slightly over 77/87 inch), that is only 10 thousandths over sized if the hole required is actually 7/8". I have built hundreds of 1/8" thick steel industrial control panels so I am quite familiar with my chassis punches, Unibits, plasma cutter etc., any of the three mentioned could have been used successfully for this simple installation.

Even though I started out the little project "knowing" that I needed a 7/8" hole for the valve, I chose to first test fit the nipple in a hole made in a scrap bit of aluminum. The smaller hole i made with the Unibit did require more time and attention to install the nipple. I actually used a makeshift tap to cut threads in the hole to fit the pipe threads. But as there was only one hole to be made and I was not being paid by the hour I did not mind spending the extra time to eliminate having a slightly over sized hole in the pot. Chassis punches are designed to provide a clearance fit and do a wonderful job of it, what I drilled is much more snug. Not necessarily better, just the way I chose to do it.

 

[k_mcarthur]

Threading the hole is a good idea, does it work well? May try that on my next build.

 

[user 163849]

Threading the hole is a good idea, does it work well? May try that on my next build.

The pot is only 3/16" thick and made of aluminum so the threads do not have much structural strength. It was more a matter of making the nipple fit a slightly undersized hole and the unplanned side benefit of zero clearance which might actually help prevent leaks. The "tap" that I used was an iron pipe nipple with a couple of perpendicular "V" notches cut in the threads which I used to thread a plastic rain barrel a few years ago. It worked fine on the soft aluminum kettle, would be useless on harder material.