DIY Conical Fermenter
- Thread starter Yuri_Rage
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Kelly.
Well-Known Member
so what does the final setup look like?
the last picture is on page 7, and i was wondering if anything had changed?
i was thinking about building one and only using it for fermentation.
any problems doing that with your setup so far?
the last picture is on page 7, and i was wondering if anything had changed?
i was thinking about building one and only using it for fermentation.
any problems doing that with your setup so far?
OP
OP
Well, I only use my conical for fermentation...mostly because I'm not sure what else to use it for. It's been working great! More pics are in my gallery.
krispy d
Well-Known Member
I am thoroughly convinced that DIY no longer means Do It Yourself but rather Do It Yuri! that fermenter is beautiful!
OK Yuri, I'm convinced, whats the 15 gal con gonna cost me with shipping to 11779?
OP
OP
WormBoy said:
Somewhere between $500 and $600...I'm a huge slacker and need to finish these things! I want to have them done in time for Christmas.
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
LouT
Can't wait to go AG...
nabs478 said:
If you've never polished metal, especially stainless, I can see how you'd think that. It's a nasty nasty exhausting dirty and did I say nasty, job!
Check in your area for a company that "Electropolishes" stainless steel pipe and hardware. The process uses electrical discharge in an electrolyte bath and will both remove oxidation and passivate at same time, saves the tedious grind, polish, and passivate steps in finishing.
How much does electropolishing cost? I mean typically.
Ouch, I'd rather have the outside copper or nickle plated or something, lol.
OP
OP
All this polishing stuff is nonsense. Check the inside of your corny kegs - are they polished to a mirror finish? Clean your fermenter well, sanitize it thoroughly, and be done with it.
For those folks that have the commercial stainless steel pots for boiling and want better heat transfer, have the bottom plated first with nickle to seal the stainless then a heavy copper coat. Trying to plate copper directly to stainless does not work, copper coats the stainless but does not stick.
D*Bo
Well-Known Member
I haven't read thru the entire article yet, but as far as an air lock, what about an adjustable pressure relief?
If the conical is rated for pressure, set the relief valve for the pressure you want and let the CO2 from fermentation carb up the beer.
Would there be any negative effects on the beer from this?
As long as you still have the secondary relief valve on the cornie lid incase the adj. valve fails.
If the conical is rated for pressure, set the relief valve for the pressure you want and let the CO2 from fermentation carb up the beer.
Would there be any negative effects on the beer from this?
As long as you still have the secondary relief valve on the cornie lid incase the adj. valve fails.
I am fermenting under pressure in a sanke, and this is my best beer yet on my final brewing setup (I have made a bunch of changes and finally have it where I want it, lol). I need to find another adjustable pressure relief valve as this one only goes to 20 psi and I need 30 psi @ 65*F for carbonating ales to 2.9 volumes if I want.
ThaDutchMasta
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Yuri, just wanted to say your a pimp! im gonna have to jump on my MIG and get me a hopper!
Yuri definitely has a strong pimp hand 
did these ever hit the market? i'm very interested in buying one.
if not, i have a guy interested in building one, so i could contract him and use your awesome work as a reference.
if none of that works out, i'm buying a new one (or used if i can find) as soon as my debt is gone.
i'm very interested in buying one.if not, i have a guy interested in building one, so i could contract him and use your awesome work as a reference.
if none of that works out, i'm buying a new one (or used if i can find) as soon as my debt is gone.
OP
OP
Here is a picture of design #2. This one is likely going to be shipped to DeathBrewer. It's still a little rough - I'm going to put a finish on all of the raw steel pieces, and the racking port has yet to be drilled.
Design #3 is in the works (Death, you'll have your choice of which you prefer). I'm going to make a hexagonal stand for that one and use the same design for the screw-down lid seal. More pictures later.
Design #3 is in the works (Death, you'll have your choice of which you prefer). I'm going to make a hexagonal stand for that one and use the same design for the screw-down lid seal. More pictures later.
HarvInSTL
Well-Known Member
Yuri_Rage said:
Any pictures of the inside?
OP
OP
Who says trig and beer don't mix?
If you don't know how this fits into the conical fermenter plans yet, hold on...there's more on the way as I get it done.
Harv, I'll get some interior pics later tonight when things are more finished.
If you don't know how this fits into the conical fermenter plans yet, hold on...there's more on the way as I get it done.
Harv, I'll get some interior pics later tonight when things are more finished.
OP
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Here's the hexagonal stand:
OP
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Pressure mechanism for lid in place:
How much pressure can these things take do you think Yuri? I am very interested to find out more information.
Brewing Clamper
Well-Known Member
So, how do I get in line for one of these bad boys?
OP
OP
I haven't pressure tested the new design yet, but I'm confident that it will hold the 4-5 psi required for a pressure transfer. I'm guessing that force carbonating inside one might be a bit of a lofty goal. More to follow as work progresses.wortmonger said:
Bad news, good news, and then more bad news...Brewing Clamper said:So, how do I get in line for one of these bad boys?
Bad news first: I have two available right now, and they're both spoken for.
The good news: I have two more TMS hoppers waiting to be converted.
More bad news: I'm moving all of my shop equipment to Texas tomorrow, so I won't be able to finish the other two until later this year when I'm more established in the new location (likely in the fall).
Brewing Clamper
Well-Known Member
So what you're saying is that there is a posibility?! I like it!
OP
OP
More pictures!
The first two show my simple back-gas configuration. The hose is hooked up to a spare argon cylinder with the regulator set to very low pressure (3-5 psi). I use foil tape to secure everything. The first picture's setup is probably adequate, but for extra insurance, I enclose it with some more tape as shown in the second picture.
Harv, I'm assuming this is the picture you wanted. This is the interior of the bottom weld before any cleanup. The heat discoloration will disappear with a quick scrub with BKF. I think that looks pretty sanitary, don't you?
(the yellow stuff you can see through the fitting is an extension cord that wandered into the picture)
The first two show my simple back-gas configuration. The hose is hooked up to a spare argon cylinder with the regulator set to very low pressure (3-5 psi). I use foil tape to secure everything. The first picture's setup is probably adequate, but for extra insurance, I enclose it with some more tape as shown in the second picture.
Harv, I'm assuming this is the picture you wanted. This is the interior of the bottom weld before any cleanup. The heat discoloration will disappear with a quick scrub with BKF. I think that looks pretty sanitary, don't you?
(the yellow stuff you can see through the fitting is an extension cord that wandered into the picture)
OP
OP
Here they are! I just need to clean them up a bit more, drill a single hole in each one for the racking port, and install the rubber lid seals. Thanks to a late night last night, the legs/hardware are powder coated. Almost there!
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