didn't plan on dry hopping, but thinking I might have to

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GrogNerd

mean old man
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brewing an American IPA and used WLP008, which says, "Similar neutral character of WLP001, but less attenuation, less accentuation of hop bitterness, slightly less flocculation, and a little tartness"

original recipe says 45 IBU, which is low for the style, but I ended up with a bigger boil volume than intended, bumping the IBUs up to 50 when corrected in Beersmith. Still kinda low for the style; I'm going for a Starr Hill Northern Lights-level hoppyness (52 IBU, but not looking for clone).

10 days into primary, temps on fermometer are steady between 63 & 65°, airlock activity good first couple days then slowed, but I'm not worried. I open the top to get a sample for hydrometer reading and the krausen is dense and fairly rigid. did not get accurate reading, my storage tube acts as my test flask, it never gives accurate readings, but I'm still not worried.

of course, I gotta taste the sample and it's just fookin' awesome, but there's hardly any hop bitterness, taste or aroma to it. just a little bitterness up front, with no lingering flavor or aroma. kinda defeats the purpose of an IPA, right? I know I started low and the yeast won't help, but I would still like some hop flavor to it. I mean SNPA is 37 IBU, but this does not have nearly the hoppyness.

so, the questions are: would finishing up the fermentation (11 more days, total 3 weeks) plus bottle conditioning (3 weeks) increase the hop bitter/flavor/aroma at all, or what I got is what I'll get?

go ahead and dry hop? I should have planned to anyway, because, HEY! it's an IPA?
 
Dry hop away dude!!
For me personally, its not until IBU hits at least 70 before it becomes an IPA, but Im a hop head.
As for the lack of potency, are the hops old or not stored in a fridge perhaps? With a bigger boil volume did you boil longer? If not, that would certainly dilute your wort.
 
bigger boil volume was only 1 quart, so I didn't boil any longer

don't think the hops were too old. not sure how long they were in LHBS fridge; they were in mine 2 weeks
 
Carbonation will usually increase the perceived bitterness. Definitely dry hop, won't change the bitterness but I would not do an IPA without it.
 
If you are going to brew IPA's, just plan on dry hopping them. Don't be stingy. 3+ oz.

Unless you are going to invest in pumps etc so you can whirlpool/recirculate, that is the only way you are going to get commercial level hop aroma in your IPA.
 
another problem I didn't consider: was using a hop spider with muslin bag.

discussion in this thread makes me think twice about bagging in all that hoppy goodness next time
 
went down to the LHBS for bottling supplies and also some hops

1 oz of leaf Citra (13.6) and 1 oz of Sorachi Ace pellets (11.3); they'll be in there for 7 days, bottle next Saturday

never heard of Sorachi Ace before, but HOLYEFFINGCRAP did they smell good
 
If you are keen for a hop explosion and need a few extra IBUs, you could try making a hop tea and adding that to the fermenter as well as the dry hop. You would add bitterness, flavor and aroma by doing so.
 
UPDATE:

these were bottled 10 days ago and HOPPY EFFING CRAP, did it taste good. I never knew warm flat beer could taste so good! nice hop aroma and taste, with just a hint of creeping bitter aftertaste.

I put a couple in the fridge on Sunday and popped one open last night. little light on the carb, but what do you expect? it's only been a week.

TASTES AWESOME! the same hop aroma & taste with that slight bitter at the end, only better. very dry; I didn't use any caramel/crystal at all.

2 more weeks of conditioning and it will be amazing.

the BigHair detects a little tang she described as "aspirin," which I think the power of suggestion might have lead me to sense it too, but I don't care... if she won't drink it, I sure as hell will.

SUPER AWESOME THANKS TO ALL for the dry hop advice. this wouldn't be the super awesome beer it's going to be without you guys!
 
Aspirin taste could be a beer fault.

Medicinal (chlorophenolic) Chloroseptic, medicine cabinet
Avoid water with chlorine or chloramines (use RO water if necessary). Avoid bleach sanitizers. Reduce
astringency/grain husk sources. Avoid excessive whole hop use. Check for infection.
 
Remember, hop bitterness is derived by isomerization of hop alpha acids during the boil - which is why the bittering hop additions are added early in the boil (or before, as in first wort hopping). Also, hop tea addition could bump up the IBUs. Late hop additions, as at flame out or as some form of dry hopping add flavor/aroma, but little, if any bitterness. Dry hop away (adding lots of very good things!) but don't expect it to change the perceived bitterness (IBU) of the beer.
 
I use Deer Park water

my hop schedule:
2.00 oz Fuggles [4.10 %] - First Wort 60.0 min
1.50 oz Cascade [6.80 %] - Boil 60.0 min
1.50 oz Cascade [6.80 %] - Boil 15.0 min
1.25 oz Cluster [7.20 %] - Boil 15.0 min
1.00 oz Citra [13.60 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days (the only whole hops in the bunch)
1.00 oz Sorachi Ace [11.30 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days

like I said, there was hop bitterness, but no flavor or aroma, until I dry hopped.

and again, I am very happy with the way this is turning out, I should have just planned a dry hop from the beginning. I may add something at FO, but otherwise this recipe is a keeper
 
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