Diacetyl and DMS

[Biergarden]

Sixty minute boil is plenty long, especially if you want to keep your color straw. Ninety minutes might caramelize your beer and maybe you don't want that. Can you ferment until pressure at all? On my end I ferment these Pils at 10 PSI with very good results. That technique off sets the fermentation temperature control and will give you the sulphury aroma you should expect in that style.
Also, as an aside. Consider 10 acid malt to your grain bill. The sour will not be noticeable in your beer but will give it a nice pop in taste. It really is a game changer.
Lastly, make sure you ferment to completion and then another week to ten days for the yeast to clean up the mess they've made.

 

[G_robertus]

Don't worry too much about the mash temperature, it is not the most important factor for your end product (as long as you are reasonably within range). Depending on what brand of malt you use it might even be beneficial to start warm. See the issues with European malt quality. Now that we're on the topic of brand, DMS seems unlikely to me. I've never had DMS from any maltster except Dingemans Maris Otter (and corn) and like others have said, most modern malts do not have this issue. Boiling a bit longer won't hurt too much either, but you likely don't have to.

The good thing about diacetyl is that it goes away if there is yeast present. I'm overly sensitive, but it always goes away given enough time and proper temperatures. Even the worst of the worst strains will clean it up eventually.

Just a side note and I hope this doesn't apply to you: if these flavours came from an infection, conditioning won't help. You'll need to clean rigourously and try again if that's the case. Usually there will be other signs if you have an infection.

 

[Bramling Cross]

I am a BJCP Certified judge. And I find that on average, a judge is wrong about these off-flavors more than half the time. They try too hard to detect imperfections where there might be none.

I am not a BJCP certified judge, nor will I ever be one because the concept of trying to shoehorn brewing (a heavily scientific art) into an efficient process (judging a stupid amount of entries as quickly as possible) whereby a winner (there are no "winners" in art, a thing either becomes art by emotionally affecting another human being, or it fails to affect a human being, thus rendering it a mere thing) can be deduced. Frankly, I find the whole process is laughable--but not without merit and I deeply respect those that have made the effort. It's a valid way to advance your art.

My biases are on full display in the above paragraph. I'm also a musician, so I have highly considered and masochistically cruel thoughts about what constitutes whether the things I create are actual art. Regarding music and brewing, I'm a sadistic taskmaster. You don't want to be like me. I sometimes find myself thinking it'd be so much easier if I just entered a competition and received some validation. But that would fall short of the art I have inside me. That ain't good enough.

I wouldn't put much stock in the findings of labs, nor the findings of BJCP judges. First and foremost, your beer needs to taste good to you. If that isn't the case, consult the above sources, and look hard at your rig. Move incrementally and chart the changes you've made before monkeying around with other aspects of your process. Move slowly and methodically. Eventually, you'll pour a pint and wonder how on earth you managed to make something as amazing as this.

The bulk of modern home brewing literature is mechanistic, it's all do this or buy this and you'll make the best ever. That's BS. There are no silver bullets in home brewing. It's all about slow, incremental progress.

It's humbling and there is no instant gratification. When it arrives, though, it feels really, really good. It's worth the hell you put yourself through.

 

[Peaty Jones]

Sixty minute boil is plenty long, especially if you want to keep your color straw. Ninety minutes might caramelize your beer and maybe you don't want that. Can you ferment until pressure at all? On my end I ferment these Pils at 10 PSI with very good results. That technique off sets the fermentation temperature control and will give you the sulphury aroma you should expect in that style.
Also, as an aside. Consider 10 acid malt to your grain bill. The sour will not be noticeable in your beer but will give it a nice pop in taste. It really is a game changer.
Lastly, make sure you ferment to completion and then another week to ten days for the yeast to clean up the mess they've made.

But isnt Caramelization happening in higher temperatures. Im not an expert but i have it a quick search and i found articles that caramelization starts from fructose at 110C, 160°C (320°F) for glucose, and 180°C (356°F) for maltose.

According to this knowledge wouldnt it need a pressure cooker.

(https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/2L0OfzScD2/)

I compensated the long boil with higher volume of water in start so would it compensate the colour also? It isnt a big deal on my part also if it goes a bit darker. I aimed to golden colour of around 4srm and if it goes to like 5srm i wouldnt be bothered. The pilsner straw colour on my opinion makes it look like a (i dont remember the correct English word but bit watered and dull

 

[doug293cz]

But isnt Caramelization happening in higher temperatures. Im not an expert but i have it a quick search and i found articles that caramelization starts from fructose at 110C, 160°C (320°F) for glucose, and 180°C (356°F) for maltose.

According to this knowledge wouldnt it need a pressure cooker.

(https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/2L0OfzScD2/)

I compensated the long boil with higher volume of water in start so would it compensate the colour also? It isnt a big deal on my part also if it goes a bit darker. I aimed to golden colour of around 4srm and if it goes to like 5srm i wouldnt be bothered. The pilsner straw colour on my opinion makes it look like a (i dont remember the correct English word but bit watered and dull

The boiling temperature darkening is likely due to Maillard reactions, rather than caramelization.

Brew on

 

[Bassman2003]

But isnt Caramelization happening in higher temperatures. Im not an expert but i have it a quick search and i found articles that caramelization starts from fructose at 110C, 160°C (320°F) for glucose, and 180°C (356°F) for maltose.

According to this knowledge wouldnt it need a pressure cooker.

(https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/2L0OfzScD2/)

I compensated the long boil with higher volume of water in start so would it compensate the colour also? It isnt a big deal on my part also if it goes a bit darker. I aimed to golden colour of around 4srm and if it goes to like 5srm i wouldnt be bothered. The pilsner straw colour on my opinion makes it look like a (i dont remember the correct English word but bit watered and dull

It is a large topic but in general, darker = damaged.