Yea I feel the same to a point. But still, I’d rather pay the same price for double the amount.
Plus I don’t make starters to build cell counts. I just do a 1 liter starter to get the yeast pre gaming for the big show.
Exactly what I do.
Yea I feel the same to a point. But still, I’d rather pay the same price for double the amount.
Plus I don’t make starters to build cell counts. I just do a 1 liter starter to get the yeast pre gaming for the big show.
Exactly what I do.
Then it's not my recipe.
Aimed at commercial brewers, as are all the AHA Ingredients series
Really? Certainly these books were aggressively promoted to homebrewers. I guess anybody has a right to make a return on their investment but seems he was also part of that promote to homebrewers effort.
Actually I think his statement may be frustration about the investment he made in packaging over increasing cell counts into the package. I think it is possible that his new packs which start at 100 billion cells have as many or more viable cells at 4-6 months than the older packages which started at 150-200 billion. But nobody is posting that data so maybe not.
Really we are all still relying on microscope study he did with Jamil some 20 years ago to project viability of cell counts past packaging date. This ended up as Mr Malty calculator and likely was good predictor of WLP-001 in the old plastic test tube packages. But there are many more packages available now, and likely all have improved over time.
Maybe I’m misinterpreting your take on the subject. Is the issue that cell counts are not relevant on home brew scale or something more like the cell count formulas everyone relies on are pretty much BS except within pretty narrowly defined ranges?
Thanks for the response, sorry if I was a little snarky before. Enjoy your podcast and admire your contribution to the hobby.
Sounds like Brülosophy’s vitality starter is winning the day at least for typical home brew yeast packages and 5 gallon batches.
What’s your thinking on best strategy for larger batches? I’m normally at 18 gallons...3 packs all boosted with vitality starter or can I use fewer packs with that starter?
Thanks for the response, sorry if I was a little snarky before. Enjoy your podcast and admire your contribution to the hobby.
Sounds like Brülosophy’s vitality starter is winning the day at least for typical home brew yeast packages and 5 gallon batches.
What’s your thinking on best strategy for larger batches? I’m normally at 18 gallons...3 packs all boosted with vitality starter or can I use fewer packs with that starter?
Just to weigh in on the vitality starter thing: it's just a rebranding of Krausening.. No different at all
Second, from my observations 90% of homebrewers leave their starters too long. The goal of a starter is to produce yeast, not ferment. So if your starter is fermenting (I.e. You see Krausen) that means you are already at (or very close to) maximum cell density. At that point you should either cold crash or pitch your starter because the only thing letting it continue will do, is to decrease overall cell health by producing more cell generations with less and less resources available.
Usually for my setup with a stir plate, that's in the 12-18 hour range before I cold crash. Then I cold crash for 2-3 days before decanting to ensure that even the most nonflocculant yeast are left behind.
Well, not exactly like krausening.
Depends on which definition for Krausening you choose I suppose.
https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/oqdYkx8Usd/
This definitely fits the bill of a vitality starter. Pitching actively fermenting wort into fresh wort to induce fermentation. How you produced your actively fermenting wort doesn't seem terribly consequential to me
Also, Denny you keep popping up on my Facebook friend suggestions for some reason. I must be brewing too much
[emoji482]
Dry hopped this brew w/ 2oz Columbus in corny. Deciding to leave while serving or transfer off hops...
I’m leaning towards leaving on due to baby duty and being lazy.
Leave it in if you don’t expect the keg to last more than say a month.
I'm gearing up to make this one. What's a good water profile for this brew? Ca 100 Cl 50 SO4 300 ????
Thanks!
Here’s to Denny.![]()
May as well reply to myself from a couple years back... this turned out amazing, even with the adjusted ingredients due to local availability, still one of the best beers I've brewed!My attempt at this was VERY opaque compared to the photos I've seen in this thread, but I didn't use any clarification adjuncts, and had to use the ingredients I had available where I am: Rye IPA - BIAB Specialty IPA: Rye IPA Homebrew Beer Recipe - Brewer's Friend
Tastes & smells great though, so am hoping it's just the changes I had to make, and not oxidation which I have only had with very highly dry hopped beers, which this isn't.
Anyone else had a similar outcome?
1 week should be plenty. I brewed a batch on June 9 and dry hopped it on June 23 just before leaving for vacation for 10 days. It's at FG (1.017, a little high) and I'm cold crashing it now. I'm going to add another 1oz CTZ dry hop in a few days and most likely keg it on Sat.Brewed a batch today. Came out perfect. 1 question, how long do we dry hop?