Deburring Keggle

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Moonpile

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I have a keggle that was cut with a plasma cutter that I got off craigslist and another one that I just cut with a grinder. After cutting the new one, I tried to deburr both of them with a thicker grinding wheel. It worked to an extent but there's still burrs.

What's the preferred way to put the final touches on the cut? I really want it to make it "pain free".

Also I hear about polishing the outside with an orbital sander. What kind/grit of sandpaper is best? I'm assuming you start coarse and then stage down to finer?
 
You should send Biermuncher a PM. He can tell you all about sharp edged keggles!:D


As far as the polishing/sanding goes....there is a guy onm here, I cannot for the life of me remember who it was, but he polished his kegs and they looked sweet when he was done! I think he just cleaned and buffed them, no sanding.
 
I've got the same problem. I wonder if SWMBO's nail file will help ? :D

SharpKeggle.JPG
 
So just regular sandpaper for the deburring? Ok, I'll give it a shot.

EdWort: why the 15 point star?
 
Bobby_M said:
I can't help to think that was a really involved way of making fun of Biermuncher's keggle.

I figured it was either that or so that if he lets go of his stirring spoon it doesn't roll around!
 
Moonpile said:
EdWort: why the 15 point star?

I bought 3 keggles last year, this is one of them. I've never used it yet, but it would make a nice HLT for someone. I'll probably put it in the classifieds section for $65.
 
If you've already got a die grinder, just buy a medium grit flap wheel and go to it. I used a flap wheel for mine and it is very smooth, with no jagged or sharp edge left to it! It only took 2-3 minutes with the wheel to get it done too.
 
INeedANewHobby said:
If you've already got a die grinder, just buy a medium grit flap wheel and go to it. I used a flap wheel for mine and it is very smooth, with no jagged or sharp edge left to it! It only took 2-3 minutes with the wheel to get it done too.

Ok, I saw the flap wheels at Harbor Frieght. Since I have the grinder that's what I'll do, though I think one of my brewing buddies has a dremel.
 
Seriously, sand paper is all you need.
Just give it a light dressing with a grinding wheel and a rub with papers and it's done.

Nothing wrong with more power tools though.
 
If you're giving it a light dressing with the grinding wheel, then you've already done as much work as it takes to hit it with the flap wheel (and sand paper is more laborous to do the same job). The flap wheel is like $3 from Harbor Freight or similar...hit the top of the lip and the bottom, it takes less than 5 minutes start to finish including putting the wheel on the grinder.
 
The flap wheel is normally courser than sand paper and doesn't give as good a finish.
The sand paper took me a minute. I'm more than happy with the results.

But hey why take my word. :)
 
INeedANewHobby said:
If you're giving it a light dressing with the grinding wheel, then you've already done as much work as it takes to hit it with the flap wheel (and sand paper is more laborous to do the same job). The flap wheel is like $3 from Harbor Freight or similar...hit the top of the lip and the bottom, it takes less than 5 minutes start to finish including putting the wheel on the grinder.

That does sound like the way to go and I intend to this week. I think it needs a little more than just hand finishing. If I then need to go that extra step, I will.
 
orfy said:
The flap wheel is normally courser than sand paper and doesn't give as good a finish.
The sand paper took me a minute. I'm more than happy with the results.

But hey why take my word. :)


I'm a software guy. I don't use power tools often. I just bought a grinder and cut the top off a keg. It's been two days, but I'm still working off the testosterone generated by that! :)

Seriously, I got a flap wheel but I also got 150 grit wet-and-dry which I plan to try first so I can return the flap wheel if it works well for me. I'm thinking of cutting a strip and kind of working it almost like floss.
 
I am going to look for a weld shop that has a plasma cutter and can weld in a drain (sanitary). I think that after you have bought a nice keg you should modify it with care. Otherwise you may not like what you have done to it. I want the cover to fit nicely and have no sharp edges. Haste makes waste. :mug:
 
WBC said:
I am going to look for a weld shop that has a plasma cutter and can weld in a drain (sanitary). I think that after you have bought a nice keg you should modify it with care. Otherwise you may not like what you have done to it. I want the cover to fit nicely and have no sharp edges. Haste makes waste. :mug:

For starters, neither keg I have is particularly nice. They're well dinged and the skirts are a little bent up. That's why I believed the guy who I bought them from on craigslist when he claimed he had gotten them decommissioned.

The one that was already cut had been cut with a plasma cutter (or so the guy said) and it had a pretty scary looking edge. I can't believe this guy brewed with it and still has his arms after trying to clean it.

After I cut the other keg with a grinder, my step-father, whose tool-fu is strong, said I had done a better job than had been done on the other one. The grinder cut was definitely smoother and more circular than the plasma cut. I used the grinder to take the sharp edges off the plasma cut one, or there's no way that sandpaper or a flap wheel or anything would be of any use.

I don't think the remainder of the top is going to "fit" either way you cut it. It's always going to be smaller than the opening you removed it from. Mine's pretty close and I figure I can just bolt on three or four steel "tabs" to make it not fall through. It won't be a complete seal, but it'll keep stuff from falling in when it's appropriate to cover it, such as using it as an HLT.

Grinder Cut, top view

Grinder Cut, close up

Hoping to sand them tonight, so I'll let everyone know how that goes.
 
I grinder-cut all my tops and I just had the welder tack weld three stainless washers "overhanging" around the circumference of the top. Now the tops will rest on top of the keg without falling in.

In regard to cleaning up the cut edges, I switched over to the thick grinding pad as opposed to the cutoff wheel and took off the sharp parts. Then I touched it up with some 100 grit sandpaper (by hand).
 
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