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Day before bottling day - Need Assistance Please

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Jiffster

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I'm going to bottle my first batch tomorrow. Summer Saison. Been fermenting 2 weeks in the basement at 65-67 degrees. Currently in secondary fermenter with dry hops. I want to move it upstairs to the kitchen today so it can settle from moving it but it's usually 74-76 degrees upstairs.

Is that OK?

Also, I've attached some pics showing what the batch looks like as of today. Seems like it should be clearer. It's bubbling through the airlock at a rate of 8 bubbles per minute.

If I don't bottle it tomorrow I won't have a chance to do it for 2 more weeks.

Advice appreciated!View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1440263680.246176.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1440263694.093606.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1440263708.461430.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1440263720.961415.jpg
 
I vote for letting it sit two more weeks. The clarity and overall quality of the beer with improve from staying on the yeast a little longer.
What yeast did you use? It may actually benefit from staying upstairs in the warmer temperature.
 
Wait the 2 weeks. You do not want to bottle too soon and risk bottle bombs. I see no mention of a gravity measurement.... You want the gravity to be stable over a few days..
 
Wait two weeks then. It's not done yet. If you can keep it cold too that's great! But like stated before, you risk bottle bombs.

I usually don't transfer my beers to secondary until the air lock stops. How many days was the beer in the primary?
 
+1 on the gravity reading.
To put in perspective, my first saison (using WY3724) took two months to finish. It was worth the wait.
 
Let it sit...

Ferm temps may have been a bit low depending on the yeast you used. It doesn't sound like it's done yet.

An extra two weeks will not hurt anything.
 
Looks like you have an active fermentation going. Top of the beer is covered with a full krausen and little to no yeast has dropped out. This beer, and you, will benefit by letting the fermentation go for another two weeks.

Looks very tasty.
 
Definitely let it go 2 more weeks. If you used a Saison yeast then it could definitely benefit from the warmer temps upstairs. The Saison yeast strains thrive with fermenting temps in the mid to upper 70's. That's when they give off their distinct flavors.
 
I vote for letting it sit two more weeks. The clarity and overall quality of the beer with improve from staying on the yeast a little longer.
What yeast did you use? It may actually benefit from staying upstairs in the warmer temperature.


Yeast was Belgian Saison III (WLP585)

Wait two weeks then. It's not done yet. If you can keep it cold too that's great! But like stated before, you risk bottle bombs.

I usually don't transfer my beers to secondary until the air lock stops. How many days was the beer in the primary?


Beer was in Primary for 7 days and has been in secondary 6 days as of today. The recipe called for 4 days in primary and 10 in secondary but my schedule didn't allow.

+1 on the gravity reading.
To put in perspective, my first saison (using WY3724) took two months to finish. It was worth the wait.

Here's a pic of the trub after racking to secondary.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1440265467.260651.jpg


Haven't taken a gravity reading since racking to secondary 6 days ago.
 
Don't know about that strain specifically, but other Belgian yeasts I've used like warmer temps, so I'd let it sit 2 more weeks in the warmer temp. Check what temp that strain likes.
 
The only schedule that matters is that of the yeast. Your beer is clearly still fermenting given the krausen and the air lock activity. I'd move it upstairs to the warmer temps since it's a saison, cover it with a a towel to keep out as much light as possible and forget about it for at LEAST 2 weeks (I'd go 4 weeks), and then start taking gravity readings. Once the gravity reading stays the same over a 3-4 day period, you're good to bottle. I can assure you that if you bottled now, you'd end up with dangerous bottle bombs and a ruined your first batch. I get the impatience given that it's your first batch but believe us when we say that your lack of rushing will be rewarded with better, clearer beer.
 
Don't bottle tomorrow. Give it 2 - 4 more weeks.
In the meantime start something else in your primary...
 
Don't bottle tomorrow. Give it 2 - 4 more weeks.
In the meantime start something else in your primary...
 
yeah i would say that fermentation is likely finished, but it's probably off-gassing now. it wasn't finished when you racked it to your secondary, which is why the krausen happened. i suppose that's fine, and it means that it's purged all that headspace, but next time wait until the krausen has dropped before racking to secondary.
saisons take a bit longer to ferment usually, and as stated, you really want to be ramping up the temps throughout the fermentation on that style. even ending in the 80s is fine.
also as everyone else has stated, if you can't cold crash that thing, you should let it sit and clear. there is still a ton of yeast suspended in that thing.
lastly, next time, check out the recipe section on here and follow those instructions. kit instructions always seem to be rife with horrid advice.
 
The recipe called for 4 days in primary and 10 in secondary but my schedule didn't allow.

I future I would advise ignoring nonsense instructions like these, containing completely arbitrary and worthless time-points.

A better instruction would be.

1: Allow beer to ferment to completion. (Meaning the beer shows no signs of ongoing fermentation. Yours does not meet this criteria.)

Signs of complete fermentation can include
  • No krausen
  • No consistent production of CO2
  • Beer dropping clear (not applicable to all yeast strains and beer types)

Data consistent with a beer that has reached its terminal or final gravity
  • Unchanging specific gravity. (requires more than 1 identical gravity reading 2-3 days apart)

NB* The data is not needed if you have clear signs the fermentation is done. I don't take multiple readings as I can easily determine when the beer is done from the visual signs.

2: Dry hop for the desired number of days. This can be done in the primary or if you prefer, you can put the hops in a second vessel and rack the beer onto the hops, (in the process, ensuring you don't oxygenate the beer) and little to no head-space in the vessel is desirable.

3:package the beer after the desired dry-hop time. (3-7 days is often advised)
 
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I future I would advise ignoring nonsense instructions like these, containing completely arbitrary and worthless time-points.

Clearly he didn't read those instructions to the yeast before he pitched.... That's a crucial step. Otherwise how will the yeast know how long they have to finish up. :mug:
 
You're likely safe to bottle, but I would take a gravity reading today and the another tomorrow. If it is exactly the same, you know for certain that fermentation is complete and that you won't end up with gushers at best, exploding bottles at worst. Let us know how this beer turns out!! Cheers
 
I don't know where those instructions came from. Instructions like this (short time frames) just got trounced!!! This is the worst I have ever seen!!!!
 
Still bubbling at 8 per minute? Nope...let that sit another 2 weeks. You will be just fine.
 
I'd pass on the multiple hydrometer readings. I'd take one when I'm bottling. Then I know my OG, FG and can get a handle on how effective my mash was, my fermentation was, the ABV etc. Useful info.

This kind of time-frame for an ale, multiple readings are redundant extra pointless busy work IMO. It's done for sure. Bottle it/keg it.

DO IT!
200x200px-ZC-2939dc8f_Ben-Stiller-Do-It-Starsky-and-Hutch.gif
 
Your dry hops have been in there 3+ weeks? Did you taste the beer yet?


Yes, 3weeks. Nope, haven't tasted yet.

Still bubbling at 8 per minute? Nope...let that sit another 2 weeks. You will be just fine.


Not bubbling at all now. The 8 per minute was 2 weeks ago.

I'd pass on the multiple hydrometer readings. I'd take one when I'm bottling. Then I know my OG, FG and can get a handle on how effective my mash was, my fermentation was, the ABV etc. Useful info.



This kind of time-frame for an ale, multiple readings are redundant extra pointless busy work IMO. It's done for sure. Bottle it/keg it.



DO IT!

]


I'm gonna! [emoji106]
 
I'd pass on the multiple hydrometer readings. I'd take one when I'm bottling. Then I know my OG, FG and can get a handle on how effective my mash was, my fermentation was, the ABV etc. Useful info.

This kind of time-frame for an ale, multiple readings are redundant extra pointless busy work IMO. It's done for sure. Bottle it/keg it.

DO IT!
200x200px-ZC-2939dc8f_Ben-Stiller-Do-It-Starsky-and-Hutch.gif

Bad advice. It's strongly suggested to take multiple readings across a few days in order to confirm that fermentation is complete. Otherwise, you have no clue if your "FG" is the real FG. The beer could continue fermenting in the bottle if it hasn't reached FG, leading to overcarbonation and potential bottle bombs/injury. Certainly worth the " redundant extra pointless busy work."
 
Bad advice. It's strongly suggested to take multiple readings across a few days in order to confirm that fermentation is complete. Otherwise, you have no clue if your "FG" is the real FG. The beer could continue fermenting in the bottle if it hasn't reached FG, leading to overcarbonation and potential bottle bombs/injury. Certainly worth the " redundant extra pointless busy work."

Fair enough. Data is useful for sure. I like data.

This ale has been going for 4+weeks.

Experience and visual evidence tells me repeated readings are redundant. Taking them with appropriate care is not likely to cause harm.

Taking multiple FG readings on every batch. It's a blanket type of advice that discounts all the other obvious pieces of non-empirical data consistent with a complete fermentation. I like to open my carboy as few times as possible when the beer is within.

It's useful to understand the theory behind a stable gravity prior to packaging. Beers can however, be made very reliably without these measures. Don't let only data be your guide. You as the brewer, as your skills develop, can make these decisions with greater ease as your wheelhouse of knowledge and experience grows.

Look at the beer. Is it clear/clearing? Is there a settled yeast/trub cake on base of FV? No activity noted, yes/no?(glass is useful here). No consistent production of gas?

Certainly don't follow my advice blindly. I'm sure you will listen to all the advice here and distill it down to what you, the brewer, choses to do.

I'm sure many others would do the same and view my advice as bad.

But yeah, DO IT !:D
 
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