day 2 Boil??

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redwing_al

http://www.homebrewmania.com/
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I sometimes find it hard to carve away 5 -6 consecutive hours to brew. Has anyone used day 1 to make wort, let it sit overnight and then start the boil and finish on day 2? just wondering if there is any real concern here of why it wouldnt; be a problem?

...and I dont mean an overnight mash.. just make the wort today, boil it tomorrow. thats what I am thinking will increase my brew days..

thanks!
 
Be careful when leaving wort overnight. I was up til 1am mashing out my porter and needed to sleep. I set when wort aside and found a drowned faery in the pot the next morning. Let you know how it turns out...
 
I sometimes find it hard to carve away 5 -6 consecutive hours to brew. Has anyone used day 1 to make wort, let it sit overnight and then start the boil and finish on day 2? just wondering if there is any real concern here of why it wouldnt; be a problem?

...and I dont mean an overnight mash.. just make the wort today, boil it tomorrow. thats what I am thinking will increase my brew days..

thanks!

Theoretically, if you kept it over 160F you shouldn't have any problems. Usually people don't let unboiled wort sit over night unless they're planning on kettle souring. As far as I know anyway. There would still be some lactobacillus that made it through the mash process.

If you want to increase brew days why not just do a brew each day instead of making one brew last 2 days?
 
I don't think you are totally out to lunch on this. I've had things come up mid-brew and had to abandon the project post mash. The longest I've left the wort in the kettle between sparge and boil has been about 14 hours. I've only done this twice, but there were no noticeable issues with the resulting beer. I figure, you're gonna boil for an hour anyway, any bacterial issues with the wort should be killed off in the process.

Try it out and let us know how it goes.
 
I could be wrong but I feel like there could be a brulosophy on this. If not it would be an interesting one to do, I don't see why you couldn't seal it up in a pale and crack it open the next day, any nasties would be boiled off I would imagine.
 
I'm not the most knowledgeable brewer by any means, but I've done this many times in my search for convenience (and limited equipment/funds).
I'd mash after work one night, which really meant a few hours worth of heating/cleaning.. Then, I'd heat back up and boil, and either IC and ferment if I had time (usually not), or no chill in pot overnight again, and transfer to fermenter the third day.
Honestly, I think I made great beer this way.

My problem was consistency, which I think had more to do with differences in fermenting and mashing temps (which also recently led me to blow big money on an eBIAB recirc setup and fermentation chamber)...
 
I did this when I used a mash tun. After I had hit my boil volume, I would drain the rest of my HLT into the mash tun. At the end of the brew day/night, I would drain this into a smaller boil kettle (usually only had 2 or 3 gallons), covered it with Saran Wrap and let it sit overnight. Boiled the next day and never had an issue.
 
If you don't kill off all the lacto from the grain and the wort gets too much oxygen exposure it could promote butyric acid production making the wort smell like garbage and vomit topped with parmesan cheese. This won't boil out either. Even if you prevent oxidation, if the lacto doesn't get killed off you could end up with sour wort. That could be good depending on the style but at the same time that could easily ruin many others. Without at least pasteurizing the wort your definitely taking on some risks that need to be managed.

The best way I know of to cut a good chunk of time off a brew day is to make extract brews. I know its not what you asked but maybe worth considering if your really pressed for time. Another option is brewing Berliners. That'd give you a good 24-72 hours after the mash until you'd need to boil the wort.
 
Never heard of it but I don't see why it wouldn't work. You are boiling for an hour, so the bacteria won't survive anyway.

It's not the bacteria, it's their by produce, like lactic acid that you want to avoid.

Unless you keep the wort hot (>150) you can get an infection.
If you raise the temperature to > 160, to pasturize it, the risk is as it cools, and cold air is sucked in, bacteria will get in.
 
I don't want to waste 5 or 6 hours on my brews whether it is in one day or divided over 2 so I've learned to streamline my brewing. I expect to be done with the beer in the fermenter and all equipment cleaned and put away within about 3 hours. Look at your process and see where you lose time.

BTW, that 3 hours starts with choosing the recipe, bringing the equipment from the basement to the kitchen, doing all the heating on the kitchen stove, and getting the equipment back to the basement. There are ways to shave even more time off.
 
I recently did a partial BIAB where I started in the afternoon (forgetting that my wife and I had dinner plans). Obviously, I had to shut it down but at least finished the wort production. We went out to dinner and got home late. The next day we were busy until the afternoon. I finally boiled about 24 hours after mashout and have to say the beer turned out fine.

I would say as long as long as you have protected your wort from O2 it would be fine. but maybe I just got lucky?
 
Never heard of it but I don't see why it wouldn't work. You are boiling for an hour, so the bacteria won't survive anyway.

The bacteria won't, but any sour flavour compounds they've already produced certainly will.

What's wrong with doing an overnight mash? I've done that before with great success. As long as the mash remains above 140° the entire time, there should be no risk of spoiling or souring.
 
I expect to be done with the beer in the fermenter and all equipment cleaned and put away within about 3 hours. BTW, that 3 hours starts with choosing the recipe, bringing the equipment from the basement to the kitchen, doing all the heating on the kitchen stove, and getting the equipment back to the basement.

I still call BS on this, as I do every time you post it.
 
I can appreciate your situation, because my brew sessions last 5+ hours, but I wouldn't do this with my beer.
The wort that comes out of the mash tun is nowhere near sanitary, and it's loaded with sugar. If you could crash chill it to 35 degrees, that would protect it , but just pumping it into a boil kettle, covering it and letting it cool slowly to room temp until the next day is opening the door for bacterial growth. Obviously you're going to boil it the next day, but the by-products of the bacterial growth are there to stay, even after the boil. Will they be detectable?, that depends on a lot of factors, but if you're trying to make the very best beer you can, well....
 
No, he claims he's doing all-grain. From designing the recipe, weighing out the hops/grains, heating strike water, mashing, heating sparge water, sparging, collecting wort, boiling, chilling, racking, aerating, pitching, and cleanup in 3 hours. It's just not possible, but he continues to claim he does it regularly.
 
No, he claims he's doing all-grain. From designing the recipe, weighing out the hops/grains, heating strike water, mashing, heating sparge water, sparging, collecting wort, boiling, chilling, racking, aerating, pitching, and cleanup in 3 hours. It's just not possible, but he continues to claim he does it regularly.

So basically you're trolling him ;) :D

I have read posts about how RM-MN talks about how he is able to only mash for 20-30 minutes and get the efficiency he's looking for. Not sure if he's mentioned lower boil times or not. But as well if he's only doing 1-3 gallon batches, it probably doesn't take that long to cool, either. 5+ gallon batches do seem to take a while with an immersion cooler though.

3 hours does seem very fast, but hey, if he says he can do it, why follow him around the forum telling him to prove it?
 
And don't get me wrong, I really like RM-MN; He gives great advice all the time on a lot of topics. I pretty much always agree with the advice he gives newbies, and I frequently "like" his posts. I simply don't agree that it's possible to brew a good 5 gallon batch of all grain beer, from recipe design to cleanup, in 3 hours flat.
 
And don't get me wrong, I really like RM-MN; He gives great advice all the time on a lot of topics. I pretty much always agree with the advice he gives newbies, and I frequently "like" his posts. I simply don't agree that it's possible to brew a good 5 gallon batch of all grain beer, from recipe design to cleanup, in 3 hours flat.


Agreed and agreed.
 
my brew day is only 4 hrs, but I do partial boils of 4 gallons(less time waiting for water to heat up or wort to boil). But I try to do things efficiently, Grind grain while water is heating, clean mash tun while wort is raising to boil temp, discard grain in the same time frame. Clean utensils after pitching dry yeast, letting yeast soak up the wort. after cleanup, mix the yeast into the wort. then put the equipment in storage for the next brew day.
 
Agreed and agreed.

Granted it was my first All Grain BIAB batch, but I started the preboil at 2pm and cleaned up at 9:30pm. No 3 hour brew day for me! I see the theory, just can't go that quick for a brew with a single kettle.
 
And don't get me wrong, I really like RM-MN; He gives great advice all the time on a lot of topics. I pretty much always agree with the advice he gives newbies, and I frequently "like" his posts. I simply don't agree that it's possible to brew a good 5 gallon batch of all grain beer, from recipe design to cleanup, in 3 hours flat.

Maybe he's a Devisor!

(For those who can't be bothered to read the link: The Whateley Academy series is a sort of "The X-Men meets ex-men" series about a school for superpowered mutant teens; the main series covers the stories of several students who, for various reasons, had their gender flipped by their powers, though most of the other students don't know about that for most of them, as they (and the gay and lesbian students) have a separate dorm and students outside of aren't supposed to know about that arrangement.

Anyway, there are several kinds of 'super science' and 'mad science' types around, two of which are from specific mutant powers: Gadgeteering, which is a specialized form of ESP that allows the mutant to know exactly how to build or repair high-tech gadgets, what tools to use for it, and so forth; and Devisors, who can build Devises (note the spelling) powered by their mutation that do things that are normally impossible, like shrink ray guns and the like. An in series joke says that the difference is that a Gadgeteer can go to the patent office, while a Devisor can go anywhere except the patent office.

To finally get to the end of all this, 'Shine, the character whose wiki page I linked to - he isn't one of the 'changelings', BTW, though he did have his own story - is a Devisor who grew up in hill country of Tennessee. Want to guess what he specializes in building? However, he's smarter than you might think: he actually made a mint by building equipment for distilleries - at the age of 13 - and then went to Whateley to get even better.)
 
my brew day is only 4 hrs, but I do partial boils of 4 gallons(less time waiting for water to heat up or wort to boil). But I try to do things efficiently, Grind grain while water is heating, clean mash tun while wort is raising to boil temp, discard grain in the same time frame. Clean utensils after pitching dry yeast, letting yeast soak up the wort. after cleanup, mix the yeast into the wort. then put the equipment in storage for the next brew day.

4 hours!?? How do you manage that.

Nevermind, you and I are almost on the same page except that I would go for full volume boils but cut the mash time by 30 minutes and the boil time by 30 minutes. Just like that, I cut the brew day down by an hour (assuming that you mashed for an hour and boiled for an hour). Good organization helps a lot, doing things concurrently, and cutting out unnecessary time really can shorten a brew day.

To be able to cut the mash time you need the grains milled finer than most conventional mash tuns can handle but I BIAB so I can mill to near flour which really speeds up conversion. The boil time of an hour comes from the need to boil off DMS but if your grain is low in SMM, it won't form that much DMS that needs so long to boil off. I've never tasted any "creamed corn" taste in my beers even with the short boil time. You might. If you do, you will need to boil longer.
 
Do an over night mash and batch sparge in the morning. I do it and the beers turn out great. I only lose about 9 degrees in about 10hrs. Do a batch sparge and start my boil. If you boil the sparge water the night before you can save a lot of time heating it in the morning as well. Saves a lot of time. About 3hrs to on your real brew day.
 
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