Danby DAR125SLDD Kegerator Build

[saskd]

Thanks to everyone who posted in this thread, I wouldn't have been able to do this conversion without it. Here's a very poor quality picture of my build so far. My problem now is that my fridge just isn't getting cold enough. On the coldest setting the beer is coming out at 7C (45F), I'd like it to be closer to 4C (40F). What's my best option here? Is there a way to turn the fridge to always on so I can use a temp controller like this one? http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Anycontrol_AC_211_Heat_Cool_Temperature_Controller_p/ac211-temp-control.htm

 

[simplecj]

Ya, that's a common issue I've seen on these conversion threads. Regular fridge t-stats use a wider temp differential like around +/-5F. That's one of the reasons I went with the Kegco pre-built with built in digital t-stat. Pretty sure the homebrew t-stats use a much tighter differential around +/-2F. My Kegco also allows temp adjust from 25 to 70F.

 

[mtnagel]

Thanks to everyone who posted in this thread, I wouldn't have been able to do this conversion without it. Here's a very poor quality picture of my build so far. My problem now is that my fridge just isn't getting cold enough. On the coldest setting the beer is coming out at 7C (45F), I'd like it to be closer to 4C (40F). What's my best option here? Is there a way to turn the fridge to always on so I can use a temp controller like this one? http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Anycontrol_AC_211_Heat_Cool_Temperature_Controller_p/ac211-temp-control.htm

That's weird because mine will get to 40C and below. In fact one day I came home and my thermometer read <32F! I do hate the huge temperature swings though and would love to get a temperature controller. BTW, nice looking kegerator.

 

[saskd]

That's weird because mine will get to 40C and below. In fact one day I came home and my thermometer read <32F! I do hate the huge temperature swings though and would love to get a temperature controller. BTW, nice looking kegerator.

Thanks. It seems most people's fridges have no problem getting cold enough. I've ordered a temp controller and I'll try jumpering out the thermostat. That should solve my problem.

 

[YeastMode]

Thanks. It seems most people's fridges have no problem getting cold enough. I've ordered a temp controller and I'll try jumpering out the thermostat. That should solve my problem.

I have the same model and I was able to resolve the temperature problems you are having by turning the factory thermostat down to just about the coldest setting, and then using an A419 to control the temperature. I did not have to bypass the factory thermostat. I ran the temp probe through the drain hole (the metal end will not fit, you have to use the wire end) and mounted it to the side of the unit with some industrial velcro. Works like a charm now, and no more freezing issues.

 

[BansheeRider]

Thanks. It seems most people's fridges have no problem getting cold enough. I've ordered a temp controller and I'll try jumpering out the thermostat. That should solve my problem.

Yeah unfortunately once we do the conversion to the fridge it voids the warranty. I made sure my fridge worked as expected before cutting into it. Did you alter the door seal at all? This is a common problem for people who cut out the door and place their own flat board. I simply trimmed the door shelves back and cut a notch in the bottom for the keg. My dial is set at 3/4 high and it stays between 38-40 degrees.

 

[saskd]

Yeah unfortunately once we do the conversion to the fridge it voids the warranty. I made sure my fridge worked as expected before cutting into it. Did you alter the door seal at all? This is a common problem for people who cut out the door and place their own flat board. I simply trimmed the door shelves back and cut a notch in the bottom for the keg. My dial is set at 3/4 high and it stays between 38-40 degrees.

How did you test yours? Before I modified mine I put a glass of water in it and checked the temp. It got to 4C (about 40F) at 3/4 high. I didn't touch the seal, just trimmed the door. I considered buying a new fridge, swapping the doors and returning the old one, but there's no guarantee the new fridge would work for me either. The temp controller should solve my problem.

 

[mtnagel]

I'd really like to move my CO2 tank to the outside of the fridge. Is there any issues drilling a hole out the back or sides of these fridges?

 

[BansheeRider]

I'd really like to move my CO2 tank to the outside of the fridge. Is there any issues drilling a hole out the back or sides of these fridges?

No problem at all. Just make sure you use a rubber gromit or insulating foam to keep the cold from escaping.

 

[mtnagel]

So anywhere on the sides are okay?

I actually just found this instructable, so maybe drilling out the back corner would be good too.

 

[henryfdez]

Wish I had the exact list of parts but I did this a couple of years ago and honestly dont remember...either way, with the pics you should get the gist of it. Its basically an "L" shaped brass tubing combo that I put together with different parts coming out the back left corner. Its been there for a couple of years and have never had any leaking or cold loss issues. Let me know if you can see them, its been a while since I post any pics to a forum and dont know if Im doing it right. Cheers!!

 

[mtnagel]

Yep, I can see them. That looks awesome. Great idea. I don't know if I'll get as fancy as that, but I didn't think about drilling through there. Thanks.

 

[Jewfei]

Has anyone tried to fit a slim quarter keg? I'm thinking it'll be barely too big for the kegerator but might be able to squeeze it in with some modifications.

 

[beingboston]

Hi Everyone,
I found this thread about 4 years ago and bought the fridge on Black Friday on Amazon. The door panel didn't have the door storage screwed on so I had to use my Dremel tool and remove the storage (creating a GIANT mess) and putting tape over the openings. For a while this is where I stopped. I also bought the STC-1000 and built a temp control box. The two corny kegs, regulator, and 5lb CO2 tank all fit in the fridge perfectly. I had some picnic taps and no budget so I just used the fridge in that condition and was happy.

This year I moved and finally took the next step with my build! I like the look of Butcher Block and I figured I needed some structure for the top of my fridge so I went hunting on Craig's List and found someone selling a BB table for $10. Perfect! My friend pointed me to a dual tap system on eBay and off I went! Here are some pics from my build and some notes.

http://imgur.com/a/CDj36

 

[Newsman]

I love this! I may do something similar with the Kegerator kit I bought off Craig's List awhile back. Supposed to come with "rails" on the side (clearly because there are holes in the top for it) but they are missing. Looks bad, but this looks AWESOME!

 

[Newsman]

FWIW, Wal-Mart has an FR464 Igloo on sale for $115 right now. This is a 4.5 CU foot refrigerator. VERY good fridge for making into a Kegerator.

 

[macaronijones]

Just built this last night based on all the info in this thread... Thanks to those who made walkthroughs

 

[makubex]

I've poked through quite a few of these Danby builds and they're all very informative. I've bought most of the major components and will drop by Home Depot this weekend to pick up a few odds and ends to round out the parts list.

One question that I have, that I haven't seen mentioned in any of these posts, is: how is everyone securing their copper tubing inside of the draft tower? Most walkthroughs which mention using copper pipe to keep the draft lines cool neglect to mention how they are secured, unless you have all found some anti-gravity copper, in which case, send me a link!

 

[BansheeRider]

I've poked through quite a few of these Danby builds and they're all very informative. I've bought most of the major components and will drop by Home Depot this weekend to pick up a few odds and ends to round out the parts list.

One question that I have, that I haven't seen mentioned in any of these posts, is: how is everyone securing their copper tubing inside of the draft tower? Most walkthroughs which mention using copper pipe to keep the draft lines cool neglect to mention how they are secured, unless you have all found some anti-gravity copper, in which case, send me a link!

I've seen some people use a fan that takes the cold air and forces it through the tap tower. I don't use either. After the first pour my taps stay nice a cold until we are done drinking

 

[macaronijones]

The fit of the copper tubing inside the hole you make is so tight it barely budges. I used 1/2 inch copper for each line (because my home depot didn't have 1 inch for sale) and a 1-1/4 inch hole. the two pipes fit through pretty snugly so that you'd have to yank on them to move them down. At some point i'll take some spray foam insulation and spray it in for added durability, but it's working fine for now.

 

[beingboston]

I've poked through quite a few of these Danby builds and they're all very informative. I've bought most of the major components and will drop by Home Depot this weekend to pick up a few odds and ends to round out the parts list.

One question that I have, that I haven't seen mentioned in any of these posts, is: how is everyone securing their copper tubing inside of the draft tower? Most walkthroughs which mention using copper pipe to keep the draft lines cool neglect to mention how they are secured, unless you have all found some anti-gravity copper, in which case, send me a link!

I've just used a clean rag. pushed it into the hole with the copper pipe and my tower cooler tube and it holds it in place. No problems so far

 

[Fcsteve777]

Has anyone checked to see if you can squeeze a 2.5 gal corney in the back instead of a CO2 Tank? so 2 staggered 5's and a 2.5 in back.
Thanks

 

[PocketWater]

No chance

 

[Fcsteve777]

Thanks, was just curious. Guess I should settle on a keezer