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Cutting Tower Hole

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MattCA

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2010
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Location
San Diego
What are some methods you used besides a drill bit saw? I don't really want to spend the $25 on one.
 
What are some methods you used besides a drill bit saw? I don't really want to spend the $25 on one.

You could use a jigsaw? If you've already spent the money on everything else, why not just buy a hole saw? Think of it as an investment considering all of the doorknobs you'll install over the years.
 
I dont know. I may. Just trying to keep cost low. Regarding the hole saw. 2.5" or 2 3/4 inch? I have an older fridge with the coils on the back so size shouldn't matter.
 
I only drilled a hole large enough for the hoses. You could always buy a cheap a** hole saw:
http://www.harborfreight.com/hole-saw-set-38425.html

+1 for harbor freight. That's probably the cheapest place around for cheap tools.

Also, what size you drill your hole is up to your. You can do like he said, and only make one large enough for your hoses, or you can make a larger whole that will allow more airflow up into your tower. It's completely up to you.
 
That is a good deal. They were $25 each at Dixeline. Harbor Freight stuff isnt usually good quatlity but I only need to use it once.
 
You will probably need to check for coils just in case, if there's a plastic top on the fridge remove it first, then, if it's just foam, kinda poke around in the foam where you want your tower to see if there's any tubes. if it's metal on top, paint the top with a mixture of corn starch and rubbing alcohol then plug it in and turn it on. if there is a coil running through the top it will heat up and cause the "paint" to dry in a line where the coil runs. This worked for my kegerator, Hopefully it will work for you. it would suck to drill through a line and have a big expensive doorstop.
 
Ya I saw the corn starch and alcohol thing. It has this weird wood top but I believe there is a metal top if I remove it. I could mess with it, but I just saw another thread saying how the old refrigerators have the coils only on the back. Which this one looks like it does.
Top
IMAG0189.jpg

You can barely see the coils in this picture.
IMAG0186.jpg
 
maybe you can look up the model online to check, I'd just hate for you to lose your investment. Here's a couple pics of mine after i made it:
0430002148.jpg

downsized_0509001452.jpg
 
Well I checked out the back and noticed that the only line that went into the actual fridge was the tube for the freeze which went directly to it (there was a gap I had to seal so I could tell it only went to the freezer) and some wires for the thermostat. So I went ahead and bought the hole saw set from harbor frieght (wore out somewhat, but got the job done) and drilled the hole. Here she is. Nothing pretty but cost me probably only about $150 all together (besides the keg system).
Kegerator.jpg

Ghetto freezer mod
KegeratorInside.jpg
 
Nice! you could probably mount the freezer plate to the back of the fridge, thats where mine is. Looks good! welcome to the world of kegging, you'll never look back!
 
That's what I was planning on doing but I think its too big. I'll have to see what I can do because its kind of a pain right now lol.
 
I used the Harbor freight hole saw last week on a Danby DAR 482 Black w/ Stainless door.

I cut first up from bottom through plastic and insulation, drilled a pilot hole up through the metal and plastic top. then I cut down from the top through the plastic trim top and backing board I had added to sure up tap mount.

When cutting through the metal top, use some 3 in 1 oil... made cutting a bit easier

adding some stainless trim rails (18" drawer pulls) will post when I get last of the rails in place
 
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