Gravitysucks
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the link. It looks like they just produce bare boards. They don't mount components on them so I'd still have the soldering issue.
CraftBeerPi - Raspberry Pi Software
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Gravitysucks
Well-Known Member
I've check out the Terragagy boards and also the Henao boards and I'm sure they both are great but they seem to be overly complicated compared to the simple designs I see on the Pi forums which basically do the same thing, add protection between the Pi and mechanical relays, SSRs, etc, and allow the use of a separate power supply of a higher voltage than the Pi uses. I already have a DIN rail mounted outlet in my panel that supplies power to the Pi and a separate power supply for relays and the SSRs so I don't need a board that also supplies power to the Pi. I also have a screw terminal shield on the Pi to simplify wiring so I was looking for a simple board to replace all the individual transistors and diodes found on the CraftbeerPi type boards. The ULN2803 IC's would do this and by using a DIN socket on the board should I find that I need to move from the 5v power supply I currently have in my panel to a 12v power supply all I need to do is replace the ULN2803 with a $1dollar ULN2804 which is designed to run on higher voltage.
I suppose that in my effort to simplify things I'm actually making my build more complicated even though the board I'm looking for couldn't be much simpler. Unfortunately soldering to pins with 2.54mm spacing isn't something I can do anymore.
Whoops, sorry. I'd agree with the other poster with terragady boards. I do have some bare versions of these, still but by the time I ordered parts to solder, found the time to solder and sent you one, you might as well just get a terragady board.
Gravitysucks
Well-Known Member
Thanks again. I may have to change my plans and go with a Terragady board but I'm thinking that since I live quite close to a local university with an electrical engineering program I might possibly be able to find a student looking to make some extra money to do the soldering for me. Can't hurt to ask and if it doesn't work out I can go the pre-built CraftbeerPi board route.
Sent you a PM. You have options for sure!
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
If you can't get anybody to solder a board for you let me know. Check with the local Home Brew Club as well. I have a populated T4.2 board that I don't need and would be willing to part with if your plan A doesn't happen. Trouble is I live on the west coast and shipping might be a problem.
Gravitysucks
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your offer. It's great that this forum has people so willing to help out. I'm going to try and hit up the university this week although with classes out of session for the summer i'm not sure I'll get very far. The homebrew club idea is a good one too. It's nice to have options and I'm sure that something will eventually work out.
FuzzeWuzze
I Love DIY
Finally got a moment to brew again after 6+ months being away, and I remembered some things that annoyed me im hoping someone can just tell me how to do.
This panel was originally a Strangebrew Elsinore box, and I liked their "hysteresis" mode because i could tell it to do X cycles on, Y cycles off, and set the duration of those cycles. This was great for my BK as i could say 2 seconds on, 1 second off, which gave me a good boil that wasnt crazy full power non stop, which when im doing 5 gallon batches is way overkill.
How do i recreate this with plugins/addons/etc in CBPi?? Ive downloaded SimpleBrewLogic and BoilPID(i think?) but neither seems to do what i want, im not controlling my element by controlling power too it, which doesnt work? I assume its because of the way my box is wired, which isnt changing so i'd like to get back the functionality of on/off cycles to control my boil.
I havent updated my CBPi really since 3.0 came out or shortly after because I dont want to risk breaking what's working already, so if this is functionality that exists now and i just need to update let me know!
Thanks!
This panel was originally a Strangebrew Elsinore box, and I liked their "hysteresis" mode because i could tell it to do X cycles on, Y cycles off, and set the duration of those cycles. This was great for my BK as i could say 2 seconds on, 1 second off, which gave me a good boil that wasnt crazy full power non stop, which when im doing 5 gallon batches is way overkill.
How do i recreate this with plugins/addons/etc in CBPi?? Ive downloaded SimpleBrewLogic and BoilPID(i think?) but neither seems to do what i want, im not controlling my element by controlling power too it, which doesnt work? I assume its because of the way my box is wired, which isnt changing so i'd like to get back the functionality of on/off cycles to control my boil.
I havent updated my CBPi really since 3.0 came out or shortly after because I dont want to risk breaking what's working already, so if this is functionality that exists now and i just need to update let me know!
Thanks!
I'm no longer using CBPi but I will try to answer for you. In general more information and quicker responses are available on the CraftBeerPi user group on FB.
What you have described is pulse width modulation (PWM).
Set your element to being a PWM actor (called "GPIOPWM" IIRC - this is included with CBP3, you don't need a plugin). If you want a 3 second cycle you would set the frequency to 1/3 = 0.333.
You can then set the power to the element on the brewing dashboard.
Be advised: the quality and reliability of the plugins varies - I would know, I wrote some of them
I don't think there has been any updates to 3.0 really. You want to be using the most recent "master branch". Safe for you to check for an update there. There hasn't been any updates in about 8 months - good chance you're up to date anyways.
What you have described is pulse width modulation (PWM).
Set your element to being a PWM actor (called "GPIOPWM" IIRC - this is included with CBP3, you don't need a plugin). If you want a 3 second cycle you would set the frequency to 1/3 = 0.333.
You can then set the power to the element on the brewing dashboard.
Be advised: the quality and reliability of the plugins varies - I would know, I wrote some of them
I have a basic board designed in Eagle that I could mill on my CNC. I just don't have the ULN2803A chip and Amazon won't ship for another month
If I'm understanding your request correctly, you're looking for something similar to the photos attached.
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Gravitysucks
Well-Known Member
I have a basic board designed in Eagle that I could mill on my CNC. I just don't have the ULN2803A chip and Amazon won't ship for another month
If I'm understanding your request correctly, you're looking for something similar to the photos attached.
I appreciate your offer. I actually purchased a couple of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4AWQJB/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
to play around with and found someone to solder some leads onto one when they finally get delivered. I've also been trying to teach myself to solder left handed since my left arm is still relatively functional. It's still a bit awkward but hopefully I'll get to the point that I won't need to rely on others to put together my "experiments". Thanks again! The number of people here on HBT that are willing to help out their fellow brewers still amazes me.
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Hi,
Looking for help tuning the PID/ control logic in CBPi3.
I've spent the last 3 days heating up and cooling down water in an attempt to brew this weekend (failed)
I've got CBPi3 up and running on a HoseHead 5BC, and I believe I've got everything configured correctly.
The issue I've continuously run into is that I overshoot my set temp every time. Initially by 4-5 degrees and then by 3-4, the graph looks like a saw.
I've tried running autotune with both GPIOSimple and GPOIPWM. Then tested each resulting PID values in
both PIDBoil and PID arduino.
I've actually had the best luck using the MOD PWM function. I still over shoot by ~2 degrees initially but then I get to 0.5 F over.
I keep researching and seeing other graphs where they get +/- 0.2F right from the start.
One thing I notice is that in running both Autotune and Arduino the element never goes below 100%, While on the MOD_PWM I can set it to 25% and it will change at the correct timing.
Is this normal?
Any advice is appreciated. I just read the last 1,211 posts in this thread as well as the many links to github CBPi and HBT. I don't have access to the FB group yet so that hasn't been of much help.
Thanks,
Smythe
Looking for help tuning the PID/ control logic in CBPi3.
I've spent the last 3 days heating up and cooling down water in an attempt to brew this weekend (failed)
I've got CBPi3 up and running on a HoseHead 5BC, and I believe I've got everything configured correctly.
The issue I've continuously run into is that I overshoot my set temp every time. Initially by 4-5 degrees and then by 3-4, the graph looks like a saw.
I've tried running autotune with both GPIOSimple and GPOIPWM. Then tested each resulting PID values in
both PIDBoil and PID arduino.
I've actually had the best luck using the MOD PWM function. I still over shoot by ~2 degrees initially but then I get to 0.5 F over.
I keep researching and seeing other graphs where they get +/- 0.2F right from the start.
One thing I notice is that in running both Autotune and Arduino the element never goes below 100%, While on the MOD_PWM I can set it to 25% and it will change at the correct timing.
Is this normal?
Any advice is appreciated. I just read the last 1,211 posts in this thread as well as the many links to github CBPi and HBT. I don't have access to the FB group yet so that hasn't been of much help.
Thanks,
Smythe
when a PID is tuned by a computer, it measures how fast the body reacts to the full force input.... then when you set it for what you want to, it calculates what it thinks will give the proper output...
If you had more thermal mass in the test (mash tun full of water) and then in actual use you had less thermal mass(1/2 or 3/4 the water and some grain), you might very well overshoot. flow rate will also affect this, if you tested with full flow, but only had 1/4 of that flow, the PID will have more error, it may be having 'integral windup' where it is building up the error because temp is not rising as fast as it should and when it gets close, it cannot slow down quick enough...
You also have to keep in mind the causes of delay between the action(heater) and the input(probe) and minimize them if possible. I used PWM on RIMS with the temp probe less than an inch from the element on the outlet side and it always was stable within a fraction of a degree... if you have the probe a distance from the heat source, it has to be slower and has a greater chance of overshoot...
I suggest writing down the PID values, fill the mash tun half way, set the setpoint for 10 degrees above the current temperature, and watch what happens... then take one of the PID values, double it, write it down, and set the setpoint for 10 degrees higher and see what happens... take notes... did it heat up faster or slower? did it overshoot, oscillate(overshoot and then undershoot), or did it never reach the temp? Now do the same thing, but halve that value you originally had.
There are lots of pages and video on tuning a PID, but this simple method of making well though out changes and recording the actions will give you a good seat of the pants feel, and get you close. You will be able to make changes with predictable outcomes in the future...
If you had more thermal mass in the test (mash tun full of water) and then in actual use you had less thermal mass(1/2 or 3/4 the water and some grain), you might very well overshoot. flow rate will also affect this, if you tested with full flow, but only had 1/4 of that flow, the PID will have more error, it may be having 'integral windup' where it is building up the error because temp is not rising as fast as it should and when it gets close, it cannot slow down quick enough...
You also have to keep in mind the causes of delay between the action(heater) and the input(probe) and minimize them if possible. I used PWM on RIMS with the temp probe less than an inch from the element on the outlet side and it always was stable within a fraction of a degree... if you have the probe a distance from the heat source, it has to be slower and has a greater chance of overshoot...
I suggest writing down the PID values, fill the mash tun half way, set the setpoint for 10 degrees above the current temperature, and watch what happens... then take one of the PID values, double it, write it down, and set the setpoint for 10 degrees higher and see what happens... take notes... did it heat up faster or slower? did it overshoot, oscillate(overshoot and then undershoot), or did it never reach the temp? Now do the same thing, but halve that value you originally had.
There are lots of pages and video on tuning a PID, but this simple method of making well though out changes and recording the actions will give you a good seat of the pants feel, and get you close. You will be able to make changes with predictable outcomes in the future...
Hi ClearWater,
Thank your for taking the time to respond.
So far all my test have been with water, in either the HLT or the boil kettle. Both are 15g G2's with a boil coil, identical except for a whirlpool tube in the boil kettle. I don't plan pumping water while heating mash water, strike water, or boiling so I haven't done it in any of the tests.
The probes are located about 1 inch above the boil coil in a 6in thermowell, so they are ~3 in inside the coil.
Each trial is usually back to back with PID autotune and then using those values and watching the reactions. ~ 8 gallons of water. (autotune can take upwards of 2 hours, because after it overshoots 5 degrees it takes a half hour or more to come back down.)
I will try systematically changing the PID values tonight and recording the results.
So far I've been just playing with all the different combination of element types and kettle logic within CBPi2.2 and CBPi3.
Anyone have a Hosehead 5BC and had any luck with a specific combination of logic controls?
I understand that during autotune the element would be at 100%, (at least on the 1st peak, I would think it would have adjustments for peaks 2 & 3).
Is it normal for the element to always be at 100% even when using PIDBoil or PIDArduino?
I would think it would approach 0% the closer to the target temp. It appears to stay right at 100% right up until hitting the target.
Thank you,
Smythe
Thank your for taking the time to respond.
So far all my test have been with water, in either the HLT or the boil kettle. Both are 15g G2's with a boil coil, identical except for a whirlpool tube in the boil kettle. I don't plan pumping water while heating mash water, strike water, or boiling so I haven't done it in any of the tests.
The probes are located about 1 inch above the boil coil in a 6in thermowell, so they are ~3 in inside the coil.
Each trial is usually back to back with PID autotune and then using those values and watching the reactions. ~ 8 gallons of water. (autotune can take upwards of 2 hours, because after it overshoots 5 degrees it takes a half hour or more to come back down.)
I will try systematically changing the PID values tonight and recording the results.
So far I've been just playing with all the different combination of element types and kettle logic within CBPi2.2 and CBPi3.
Anyone have a Hosehead 5BC and had any luck with a specific combination of logic controls?
I understand that during autotune the element would be at 100%, (at least on the 1st peak, I would think it would have adjustments for peaks 2 & 3).
Is it normal for the element to always be at 100% even when using PIDBoil or PIDArduino?
I would think it would approach 0% the closer to the target temp. It appears to stay right at 100% right up until hitting the target.
Thank you,
Smythe
Last edited:
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You should circulate while attempting to heat the water in either kettle. This could be where you are getting overshoot.
If you don’t circulate you might try hysteresis type logic and insulating your vessels.
If you don’t circulate you might try hysteresis type logic and insulating your vessels.
Maybe use hysteresis to heat mash water initially without pump, then use PID while pump is on to do the last bit of heating.. that or just PID and pump running, and a three-way valve to divert from HLT to the mash.
I would not have PID on the boil kettle for any reason, you want power to be constant 100% until you boil, or soon before, and switch to % duty cycle for the boil, as you are not chasing a temperature.
I would not have PID on the boil kettle for any reason, you want power to be constant 100% until you boil, or soon before, and switch to % duty cycle for the boil, as you are not chasing a temperature.
purdman10
Well-Known Member
In post 1035 by ksullivan86, it is stated that there are not enough gpio pins. I have the same situation, where I need 13 or so for sensors, a flow meter, 2 pumps and electric valves (one proportional, one three way, six 2 way) and two honeywell gas valves. Can Craftbrewpi handle that number? It looks like 8 max. Thanks!
If these are 1 wire temperature sensors, you can run like 100 of them off a single GPIO pin.
purdman10
Well-Known Member
Thank you for your reply. I see where my question may have been unclear. I have 4 one wire temp sensors, which I realize can be used off one pin because of each sensor having a unique serial number. My question is whether the pi has enough pins along with the software to control 13 or 14 devices, with includes gas solenoid valves. I am also not sure if there is a plug-in for gas solonoid valve control. I only see a servo for the gas tank valve. I think these were the questions in the earlier post. Thanks!
I don't think there's a CBPi limit, but you may run out with the raspberry pi, which would mean you'd be using some kind of GPIO expansion board in conjunction with it, which would probably mean writing your own plugin. Widgetlords may have some stuff that interests you. The plugins are pretty easy to write, but I think even easier is to just use something like node-red, especially as I imagined you'd be doing some pretty specialized things with this setup...
https://widgetlords.com
https://nodered.org
Lalo_uy
Well-Known Member
You can use http or mqtt actuators, so no pin limit.
purdman10
Well-Known Member
Thanks, all. I had a suspicion that there aren't enough pins unlike the mega. I am slightly familiar with MQTT. I'll look into your suggestions. Thanks!
Lalo_uy
Well-Known Member
Sonoff Basic reflashed with Tasmota works like a charm.
purdman10
Well-Known Member
Lalo_uy, can you detail a little on your comments? l am unaware of http or mqtt actuators, or how they would work with the pi, or how a wifi switch would get me the number of outputs I need. These solutions are new to me as I am a microbiologist and not an engineer. I have flashed a couple of st-1000s with alphaomega's software. I assume that the flashing would be similar to that? Thanks for the info!
Lalo_uy
Well-Known Member
http actuators respond to a http command like : http://actuator_ip/set?power=on
Sonoff basic only has 1 relay oputput, but you can install as many as you want. config them with a name ( mqtt topic ) and the plugin sends mqtt messages like "/fermenter1/POWER OFF" .
I orther to use mqtt you will need to install a broker . Mosquitto is the easy one.
And yes, flashing a Sonoff is not mutch diferent as flashing a STC1000+
Sonoff basic only has 1 relay oputput, but you can install as many as you want. config them with a name ( mqtt topic ) and the plugin sends mqtt messages like "/fermenter1/POWER OFF" .
I orther to use mqtt you will need to install a broker . Mosquitto is the easy one.
And yes, flashing a Sonoff is not mutch diferent as flashing a STC1000+
Do you have a link to a step by step(PC, not mac) to flash a sonoff for homebrew people? I am wanting to flash a S31, and am not ignorant, but all of the guides I have found have a lot of 'assumptions'... I found a tutorial for blynk, but afraid of bricking the S31 by making the wrong assumption..
purdman10
Well-Known Member
If I can add another question to this question... How would you connect reflashed sonoffs to a RPI or an expansion board like a tarragady that has only 8 inputs/outputs to get the total you need?
Lalo_uy
Well-Known Member
Sonoff swiches are WiFi, do not need a fisical connection to the RPi board. The best is to look at the Tasmota Wiki.
https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki
https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota/wiki
Batman88
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The RPi (main/broker) acts as the brains and hosts the MQTT broker. What happens is you run a command on Pi, the Pi does what it needs to do to process then sends a message via the broker to the sonoff(aux/client) which then responds. Think of the sonoff as a mini wireless board with 4 gpio pins. RPio-> sends signal to sonoff (via MQTT) -> sonoff receives message and executes the command.
Or in the simplest of terms, if you(Pi) yelled across the room, to your friend(sonoff), to turn on a light switch. That is basically the relationship between the two.
Now for the Tarragady board, it seems to just be a hat or expansion board These are typically purpose built boards, so it might only have a handful of GPIO compared to what you are normally able to use (I have 5x DS20 sensors and 3x AM2301 and 10 relays hooked up on my hydroponic garden, and I'm not even close to using up all of my GPIOs). Looks like it has a GPIO pinout (that long double row of 40 pins) those connect directly to the RPi and sit right on top of it. Then you run wires to the terminals on the Tarragady board. The board just acts as a nice layout, housing all of your resistors and capacitors in a neat little package. Looks much cleaner and is much more user-friendly than breadboards.
It really comes down to what do you want/need. Are you willing to figure out how to flash the sonoff, set up the MQTT, and occasionally troubleshoot--rarely, and maybe learn to write some easy code. The sonoff is quite easy but it is admitidly more work than option 2. You just slap the board on top of the Pi and hook your wires up to the screw terminals on the board and you're off to go. This leaves little room for options but it's much easier for some.
purdman10
Well-Known Member
Thanks so much for that. Yes, I would then need the MQTT broker and sonoff solution. The code looks easy enough. The pi would be running craftbrewpi and sending commands through the MQTT broker?
Lalo_uy
Well-Known Member
Yes, the broker ( mosquitto ) runs on the same Pi as CBPi
Bernard Eloff
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Hi Guys,
I need some help please. I hope this is the right place. I have very little IT knowledge and I am trying to install CraftbeerPi on my RaspberryPi 2B. I have donwloaded Raspbian Stretch Lite and flashed it to my SD card. I inserted the SD card into the Pi and fired it up and the Raspbian installation started. After the installation completed I logged in with the default login details and typed: "git clone https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi3" and got this error "bash: git: command not found".
I looked around on the internet and it looked like I first had to install Git. I used "sudo apt-get install git". I then tried to run "git clone https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi3" again and was asked for login in details for my Github account. I have tried to login but it does not seem to be working. On all the videos I watched about installing CraftbeerPi the guy typed in "pwd" and then directly afterwards typed "git clone https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi3" and it seemed to be working. Am I doing something wrong should I rather install Raspbian through the noobs installer?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
I need some help please. I hope this is the right place. I have very little IT knowledge and I am trying to install CraftbeerPi on my RaspberryPi 2B. I have donwloaded Raspbian Stretch Lite and flashed it to my SD card. I inserted the SD card into the Pi and fired it up and the Raspbian installation started. After the installation completed I logged in with the default login details and typed: "git clone https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi3" and got this error "bash: git: command not found".
I looked around on the internet and it looked like I first had to install Git. I used "sudo apt-get install git". I then tried to run "git clone https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi3" again and was asked for login in details for my Github account. I have tried to login but it does not seem to be working. On all the videos I watched about installing CraftbeerPi the guy typed in "pwd" and then directly afterwards typed "git clone https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi3" and it seemed to be working. Am I doing something wrong should I rather install Raspbian through the noobs installer?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
The NOOBS installer comes prebuilt with all the required repos for most applications, whereas the Lite version has none and you need to install all of them yourself. If this is your first rodeo, I'd strongly recommend NOOBS as a starting point, as it's less of a steep Linux learning curve for you.
Cheers,
Kal
Radboud
Well-Known Member
Did a brew using CBP 3 a few weeks ago which went horrible. The PWM module kept crashing CBP ultimately causing the RPi to crap out altogether, forcing me to do an on-the-fly reinstall of Raspbian and CBP which added about 2 hrs to my brewing day. SWMBO was not pleased. I am kind of done using software based solutions for brewing temp control, will go back to my Auber pid.
rkhanso
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Did you have the Mod_PWM logic configured for both the kettle and the heating element? I made the mistake of having just one of them set to that logic type and had issues because of it.
Radboud
Well-Known Member
Yep, all worked well for a while and then kept crashing every 10 mins until after a reboot the RPi wouldn't come up. I tested the microSD card afterwards which was fine. Wasted another hour trying to get CBP 2 up on Stretch which was a drama. Ended up using CBP 3 on simple mode which actually gets you in the ballpark for mashing.
Cede
Well-Known Member
Hi all,
I left abruptly brewing hobby and took me about 5 years to be back.
Well, before leaving, I was working on a system a bit like the craft beer pi, but was using a beagle bone black because of the processing units and their abilities to act a bit like onboard arduinos and being able to share data with other apps in RAM.
To make it short, regular IOs driven by some software where unable to be fast enough and have a precise timing for the needs of the AD converters and the zero crossing SSR PWM.
I made a few circuits for that purpose and pals on a french board where supposed to make the software.
As example, main board has 4 SSR with 4 PT100 inputs, 8 opto coupled inputs and 8 low amp outputs to drive solenoids or lamps.
There are some other boards like 8 relays, inputs, low amp outputs...
All boards mount in cases made to mount on DIN rail.
All modules are made to be chained on a bus.
I never released anything, but I decided to blow the dust on my stuff and I sent a message to Manuel to tell him I'd like to rework the boards for his system.
I'm waiting for a few components to be able to test his software with the hardware I made.
If some are interested in, I'm setting up a github repository where I'll post the schematics and boards when they'll be tested.
They will be all on i2c bus and for now there is:
- 4 opto inputs + 4 low amp outputs
- 4 relays
- 4 PT100
- 2 flow meters + 2 low amp outputs ( goal is to be able to set a volume and let the circuit pilot a valve to fill a vessel or just measure a flow or a volume. )
- 4 SSR zero crossing 0-100% PWM
- a board for interconnection and power supply to the slave boards
Connection between boards are made using regular network cables. I found it easier on another project for work, so I also moved that to those boards.
I just need to verify some components before placing the PCB order but I hope to be able to get something running to test by october.
I left abruptly brewing hobby and took me about 5 years to be back.
Well, before leaving, I was working on a system a bit like the craft beer pi, but was using a beagle bone black because of the processing units and their abilities to act a bit like onboard arduinos and being able to share data with other apps in RAM.
To make it short, regular IOs driven by some software where unable to be fast enough and have a precise timing for the needs of the AD converters and the zero crossing SSR PWM.
I made a few circuits for that purpose and pals on a french board where supposed to make the software.
As example, main board has 4 SSR with 4 PT100 inputs, 8 opto coupled inputs and 8 low amp outputs to drive solenoids or lamps.
There are some other boards like 8 relays, inputs, low amp outputs...
All boards mount in cases made to mount on DIN rail.
All modules are made to be chained on a bus.
I never released anything, but I decided to blow the dust on my stuff and I sent a message to Manuel to tell him I'd like to rework the boards for his system.
I'm waiting for a few components to be able to test his software with the hardware I made.
If some are interested in, I'm setting up a github repository where I'll post the schematics and boards when they'll be tested.
They will be all on i2c bus and for now there is:
- 4 opto inputs + 4 low amp outputs
- 4 relays
- 4 PT100
- 2 flow meters + 2 low amp outputs ( goal is to be able to set a volume and let the circuit pilot a valve to fill a vessel or just measure a flow or a volume. )
- 4 SSR zero crossing 0-100% PWM
- a board for interconnection and power supply to the slave boards
Connection between boards are made using regular network cables. I found it easier on another project for work, so I also moved that to those boards.
I just need to verify some components before placing the PCB order but I hope to be able to get something running to test by october.
Lalo_uy
Well-Known Member
Hi all,
I left abruptly brewing hobby and took me about 5 years to be back.
Well, before leaving, I was working on a system a bit like the craft beer pi, but was using a beagle bone black because of the processing units and their abilities to act a bit like onboard arduinos and being able to share data with other apps in RAM.
To make it short, regular IOs driven by some software where unable to be fast enough and have a precise timing for the needs of the AD converters and the zero crossing SSR PWM.
I made a few circuits for that purpose and pals on a french board where supposed to make the software.
As example, main board has 4 SSR with 4 PT100 inputs, 8 opto coupled inputs and 8 low amp outputs to drive solenoids or lamps.
There are some other boards like 8 relays, inputs, low amp outputs...
All boards mount in cases made to mount on DIN rail.
All modules are made to be chained on a bus.
I never released anything, but I decided to blow the dust on my stuff and I sent a message to Manuel to tell him I'd like to rework the boards for his system.
I'm waiting for a few components to be able to test his software with the hardware I made.
If some are interested in, I'm setting up a github repository where I'll post the schematics and boards when they'll be tested.
They will be all on i2c bus and for now there is:
- 4 opto inputs + 4 low amp outputs
- 4 relays
- 4 PT100
- 2 flow meters + 2 low amp outputs ( goal is to be able to set a volume and let the circuit pilot a valve to fill a vessel or just measure a flow or a volume. )
- 4 SSR zero crossing 0-100% PWM
- a board for interconnection and power supply to the slave boards
Connection between boards are made using regular network cables. I found it easier on another project for work, so I also moved that to those boards.
I just need to verify some components before placing the PCB order but I hope to be able to get something running to test by october.
Nice, if everything is hookup on I2C there are not to many wires connecting the RPi.
Cede
Well-Known Member
Yes it's on i2c , I might do some 1 wire as I already did flowmeters on 1 wire for a commercial project.
Does anyone know the status of CraftbeerPi 3? It appears to still be listed as Beta. The Facebook page has a teaser for CBP4!
I'm going to be re configuring my setup. I'm trying to decide if I should take the leap to 3 or stick with 2.2.
My plan is to simplify my setup in hopes of having less hardware issues. I have been using the Terragady 5 board. My last brew it was making a buzzer sound for the whole brew! Something must have shorted out the buzzer. I believe the board is a good route for someone who is technically inclined to build/maintain it, and who needs 12v support. I've had a few issues documented earlier in the thread. I have downrated it to 5v and it has been working well for me. I can't figure out what is causing the buzzer to sound. I think I'm going to cut my losses and run things off of a break out directly from the Pi.
I'm going to be re configuring my setup. I'm trying to decide if I should take the leap to 3 or stick with 2.2.
My plan is to simplify my setup in hopes of having less hardware issues. I have been using the Terragady 5 board. My last brew it was making a buzzer sound for the whole brew! Something must have shorted out the buzzer. I believe the board is a good route for someone who is technically inclined to build/maintain it, and who needs 12v support. I've had a few issues documented earlier in the thread. I have downrated it to 5v and it has been working well for me. I can't figure out what is causing the buzzer to sound. I think I'm going to cut my losses and run things off of a break out directly from the Pi.
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