CraftBeerPi - Raspberry Pi Software

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purdman10 said:
I have been following this project with great interest, as it looks like I can use it to automate my 3 keggle propane setup. I have built each version of the teensypi/teensynet projects with not much success, probably because of defects in my knowledge of how things work,so I two questions. From that project, I have built LCD boards that use I2C lines. Can I connect 2 LCD boards to the I2C lines to run my RGB LCDs? Also I have 5v, 5a power supplies. Can I hook one up rather than stepping down from 12 volts?
Click to expand...
How do you control the propane valves?
 
I have Honeywell valves and solonoids which would use a 24v transformer from 120v. I have been trying to build and automate for three years. I'm very frustrated.
 
Is there a way to alternate between two heating elements with CBP so that the element in my HLT could only be on when the element in MLT is off and vice versa? I'm planning to use 3,5 kW elements in each of my kettles but I'm limited to one 230 V 16 A line so I can't have more than one of them on at once.
 
akithegood said:
Is there a way to alternate between two heating elements with CBP so that the element in my HLT could only be on when the element in MLT is off and vice versa? I'm planning to use 3,5 kW elements in each of my kettles but I'm limited to one 230 V 16 A line so I can't have more than one of them on at once.
Click to expand...

It's not a software solution, but you could do this;

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=479201
 
akithegood said:
Is there a way to alternate between two heating elements with CBP so that the element in my HLT could only be on when the element in MLT is off and vice versa? I'm planning to use 3,5 kW elements in each of my kettles but I'm limited to one 230 V 16 A line so I can't have more than one of them on at once.
Click to expand...

I think as long as you have your steps set up right and your kettles on auto, only one heater should ever turn on at once.
 
SHvanBommel said:
^i would consider this a major fault. I'll go and check on my setup (I have switches for on/off/auto and always start in "off" until I start my process.
Click to expand...

Any idea what I might have missed? I am hoping to use this rig for the first time this week and I would love to have this solved first.
 
akithegood said:
Is there a way to alternate between two heating elements with CBP so that the element in my HLT could only be on when the element in MLT is off and vice versa? I'm planning to use 3,5 kW elements in each of my kettles but I'm limited to one 230 V 16 A line so I can't have more than one of them on at once.
Click to expand...
What I have done is installed a selector switch to select the element to avoid both firing up.

Safety first!
 
Thanks for the update keep us posted.

Depending of pricing I'll likely get two or three of the kits.
 
I've just build a setup for CBP (2.1) and it is looking really good. One of the elements I've built into my control box is a 5" LCD touchscreen. I plan on using that for easy on off control but would set everything via phone or desktop PC.

Now the problem. The 5" LCD display is only 800x400 and the browser renders the base page a bit weird. The CBP title bar gets squished down and then take up two rows. The upshot of this is that the top of the recipe and hardware sections is covered and I can't access the start button.

o4EkRDq.jpg


Is there a simple way to fix this? Maybe start the main part of the page a bit lower so there is no overlap?
 
rocketpants said:
I've just build a setup for CBP (2.1) and it is looking really good. One of the elements I've built into my control box is a 5" LCD touchscreen. I plan on using that for easy on off control but would set everything via phone or desktop PC.

Now the problem. The 5" LCD display is only 800x400 and the browser renders the base page a bit weird. The CBP title bar gets squished down and then take up two rows. The upshot of this is that the top of the recipe and hardware sections is covered and I can't access the start button.

o4EkRDq.jpg


Is there a simple way to fix this? Maybe start the main part of the page a bit lower so there is no overlap?
Click to expand...


Can't you force the resolution in the Pi?
 
First off, are you sure your TFT is 800x400 and not 800x480?

Secondly, is it connected through the HDMI port & USB or does it use a serial interface?

Finally, have you edited /boot/config.txt?

If it is a serial TFT you'll need to set HDMI_FORCE_HOTPLUG=1. If the resolution is really 800x400 you'll also need to define a custom mode using hdmi_cvt=<width> <height> <framerate> <aspect>. Also, play around with overscan.

For reference:
https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/config-txt.md
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the suggestions. It is an HDMI screen, with similar to this

It can't run HDMI properly so i have had to force the LCD resolution through /boot/confgi.txt I'll attempt a custom mode, but from what I have read so far it's unlikely to work
 
What is the purpose of using a piface with CBP? Is there a benefit to using it vs wiring a ssr directly to the pi? I'm using a pi zero with a 2000w heating element controlled via a ssr.
 
AView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1477764654.874350.jpg alright gents, good news bad news. Good news: boards are here... bad news, pi out it based on a/b rev 2 gpio not b+, etc. so, 26 pins vs. 40. I didn't notice this as my pi has 26 pins or 2x13. Sad but true. Sending revised design out now for 40 pin gpio. If anyone is interested in these boards let me know. This works on raspi a and b and will fit the B+ and Pi3 B with a 26 pin connector instead of 40. All GPIO is the same so, all will be fine you just won't have all 40 pins.
 
Looks good! So no problems with a pi 3 then? Just plug it to the right set of 26 pins on the 40 pin header?
 
Yep! If you use a 40 pin header you still have access to the other 14 pins. When I laid it out I must have bot been paying attention but it will sit and not interfere with the bottom portion of the header.
 
I have CBPI V2.2 and I need help for following:

1. controlling the flow of the gas using a PWM
2. igniting the gas when the valve is opened
3. detecting when the flame is present
4. controlling the flow meter (for sparge water)

I can't find the option for gas burners in general. :confused:

Thanks!


Viva
 
SHvanBommel said:
It's ugly but if you snag a 26 pin board I'll ship you (1) 40 pin board, gratis.
Click to expand...

Since the boards will work amd I dont need all 40 pins, I'll take two 26 pin boards as a kit once you determine pricing. As for 40 pin, i like the free idea, but I would still like to pay for the parts needed to make it work.
 
Liebherr4eto said:
I have CBPI V2.2 and I need help for following:

1. controlling the flow of the gas using a PWM
2. igniting the gas when the valve is opened
3. detecting when the flame is present
4. controlling the flow meter (for sparge water)

I can't find the option for gas burners in general. :confused:

Thanks!


Viva
Click to expand...
Last time I did a Google search there is no solution using CBPI with propane or NG.
 
Hello,
I'm writing from Italy.
I am very interested in trying this CraftBeerPi system but unfortunately I don't have any electronic skill.
If I understand correctly it is possible to control my 3 kettles HERMS system using this software with a Rasperry Pi and just a Gembird USB socket forgetting about all other electronic devices such as SSR, other electronic cards and so on. Is it correct?
I'd like to use PT100 instead of the DS18B20 since I want to install them through the walls of the kettles. Can I connect the PT100 with a device like this: http://www.playingwithfusion.com/productview.php?pdid=25
Sorry for the dummy questions, maybe someone could kelp me.
Thanks
 
Yes, however, Gembird is probably best used for fermentation control. Mash control is better done with the higher switching rate of a SSR, where you can vary the power more than just on/off.

I believe CBP currently supports only the Dallas one-wire protocol for temp sensor input. The software would need to be revised to support a SPI based sensor. Suggest you post a feature request on the CBP Github webpage. In the meanwhile the best options are a PIFace Digital 2 or a custom I/O board similar to what SHvanBommel and terragady are designing.
 
Alt said:
Yes, however, Gembird is probably best used for fermentation control. Mash control is better done with the higher switching rate of a SSR, where you can vary the power more than just on/off.

I believe CBP currently supports only the Dallas one-wire protocol for temp sensor input. The software would need to be revised to support a SPI based sensor. Suggest you post a feature request on the CBP Github webpage. In the meanwhile the best options are a PIFace Digital 2 or a custom I/O board similar to what SHvanBommel and terragady are designing.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much for the explanation.
So, the SSR are connected to the PIFace or to custom I/O boards and not to the Raspberry directly while the one-wire temp sensors are connected directly (in series) to the GPIO 4 of the Raspberry?
I have two heaters, two pumps, 3 temp sensors and maybe one agitator.

In my 3-kettle HERMS system where is it better to install these temp sensors?
I was thinking for the HLT at the bottom (with the flow going to the pump).
In the MT same thing.
In the BK?
Can someone post a few pictures showing the connection and the positioning of the temp sensors?
Thanks so much.
 
Can someone that's built this show some pictures of their completed system. Could someone also provide a schematic so we can see how all this wires to the pcb to the ssr's, pumps, etc?
 
SHvanBommel said:
It's ugly but if you snag a 26 pin board I'll ship you (1) 40 pin board, gratis.
Click to expand...

Sounds good to me, I'll take one of each. I'm struggling a bit to figure out how a board with 26 holes sits on a 40 pin header though. Can you post a pic?
 
Jessee said:
Can someone that's built this show some pictures of their completed system. Could someone also provide a schematic so we can see how all this wires to the pcb to the ssr's, pumps, etc?
Click to expand...

There is a schematic of my build on page 32 of this thread. It may not be the most ideal, but it works for me.

There are plenty of pictures of completed systems on the CBPi Facebook page.
 
SHvanBommel said:
Working on it now. Will have it done and figured out in the next day or so along with a few sets of kits put together.
Click to expand...

I'm interested in a board or two, possibly with a kit. Just need to know cost(s)?

Thanks everyone for their work on this!
 
Ok! 40 pin boards are at fab house, some modifications and updates were done during re-design.
 

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