Saison Cottage House Saison

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This is the first beer I'll brew on my new system (i have an actual kettle and mash tun now instead of a single pot BIAB system) and I have a question about the water amounts.

Are the amounts listed prior to heating or after heating? I'm assuming the 3.58 gallons of water for the mash is room temp water and not the amount at mash temp. Is that correct?

If that's the case, then it looks like I'll need 8.33 gallons of cold water to start with for a 5 gallon batch?

Without getting too crazy detailed, all measurements are calculated and are at room temp. I use basic figures when figuring my water volumes, my keggle boils off 1.5 gallons per hour at my usual boil vigor, I use a grain absorption rate of .1 gallon per pound of grain in the recipe, this recipe has a 1.30:1 mash ratio so we can calculate the mash water volume easy enough as well... If I want 5 gallons in my fermentor, I boiled off 1.5 gallons, and lost 1.1 gallons in grain absorption, that's 7.6 gallons needed.... If you assume some left in the kettle (trub loss) and mash tun loss, I'd guess you are safe at 8.3 gallons if it's looking a little short during the boil, either shorten the boil, or reduce boil vigor. If it's a bit high towards the end of the boil, either boil longer or increase boil vigor to boil off to the desired volume.

If that helped, awesome! If you need an explanation that isn't that convoluted, maybe I can rephrase it to actually make sense, it's early in the morning and I just woke up!
 
Without getting too crazy detailed, all measurements are calculated and are at room temp. I use basic figures when figuring my water volumes, my keggle boils off 1.5 gallons per hour at my usual boil vigor, I use a grain absorption rate of .1 gallon per pound of grain in the recipe, this recipe has a 1.30:1 mash ratio so we can calculate the mash water volume easy enough as well... If I want 5 gallons in my fermentor, I boiled off 1.5 gallons, and lost 1.1 gallons in grain absorption, that's 7.6 gallons needed.... If you assume some left in the kettle (trub loss) and mash tun loss, I'd guess you are safe at 8.3 gallons if it's looking a little short during the boil, either shorten the boil, or reduce boil vigor. If it's a bit high towards the end of the boil, either boil longer or increase boil vigor to boil off to the desired volume.

If that helped, awesome! If you need an explanation that isn't that convoluted, maybe I can rephrase it to actually make sense, it's early in the morning and I just woke up!

Thanks for the detailed response! That makes perfect sense to me. I'm really looking forward to brewing this one tomorrow.
 
Well, I just finished brew day today with this recipe on my new system and ended up with a brewhouse efficiency of 65%. I was hoping for something higher but had a few issues with temps.

I guess I took too long to dough in my grains and the mash temp was around 145-146'F

The temperature of the mash after adding the sparge water and stirring the grains was 168'F (should have been 170, right? Or was 170 the temperature of the water itself before adding to the grains?)

The boil was fine though and I ended up with exactly 5.5 gallons of wort post-boil.

Do you think the temperature issues played a role in my low efficiency or could it have been a grain crushing problem? I just had the LHBS crush it for me.
 
Well, I just finished brew day today with this recipe on my new system and ended up with a brewhouse efficiency of 65%. I was hoping for something higher but had a few issues with temps.

I guess I took too long to dough in my grains and the mash temp was around 145-146'F

The temperature of the mash after adding the sparge water and stirring the grains was 168'F (should have been 170, right? Or was 170 the temperature of the water itself before adding to the grains?)

The boil was fine though and I ended up with exactly 5.5 gallons of wort post-boil.

Do you think the temperature issues played a role in my low efficiency or could it have been a grain crushing problem? I just had the LHBS crush it for me.
Was the grain crush very fine or was it fairly coarse? My crush is nearly powdered, with whole husks from the malt conditioning.

When I was using my LHBS crush my efficiency sucked, with my own mill I'm nearly 89% very consistently
 
I sent this beer in to a competition that was Saturday so we should see soon how this scores. It is one of the best beers I've brewed to date so I am hoping for good results/feedback.
 
Was the grain crush very fine or was it fairly coarse? My crush is nearly powdered, with whole husks from the malt conditioning.

When I was using my LHBS crush my efficiency sucked, with my own mill I'm nearly 89% very consistently

It was pretty coarse. I guess that's probably the issue. I guess it's time to invest in a grain mill soon haha.

If 3711 does its job properly I should still end up with something in the 6.5-7% range so I'm not too worried. 12 hours after pitching the yeast and it's already going like mad. Having a proper starter helped a lot I think
 
My take on this recipe... used a Danstar belle yeast, no pepper, and a few other variations. Thank you for creating such an amazing recipe.

13516356_1082732225119238_1536291495801705242_n.jpg
 
Just ran across a few bottles in the back of my fridge when I thought they were all gone!!!! Was a real treat to be able to have a couple in hiding.

This thing has aged like a fine wine!!! It really cleared too.

View attachment 359476


I found one of those, was in the fridge about a year i'm guessing and i was immediately angry that I hadn't saved more!!
 
I found one of those, was in the fridge about a year i'm guessing and i was immediately angry that I hadn't saved more!!

That happens! I routinely saved some for later enjoyment, my new house isn't really conducive to good long term storage options, though amazing after a year or so I find less heartache in not saving some, regardless of quantity I always run out of those special aged ones and it makes me sad :(
 
I submitted this beer to Ballast Point's OG20 Annual competition. It scored a 36 which I'm not upset with however, I am disappointed that neither judge wrote a single thing in the comments which really annoys me. If you're not going to give a perfect score at least say why.
 
I've done my fourth attempt at this recently but with a few tweaks.

I used Kent Goldings all round instead of the Sorachi Ace and took the bitterness up to around 40 IBU. I switched the yeast for WLP550 so it's fruity but not as dry and replaced the pepper with grains of paradise.

Should be ready for a first tasting in a week or so but possibly at its best in three weeks. I'll report back.
 
That happens! I routinely saved some for later enjoyment, my new house isn't really conducive to good long term storage options, though amazing after a year or so I find less heartache in not saving some, regardless of quantity I always run out of those special aged ones and it makes me sad :(

I can't keep much of this in a fridge for a year.
Not only would I not have any space but I also would end up drinking it once cold ;)

If I stored a case it in the basement between 65 would it still be ok after a year?
 
If I stored a case it in the basement between 65 would it still be ok after a year?

Somehow I still have about half a case in the basement that I rediscover every so often. This is from a batch I brewed over a year ago. They are still damn tasty.
 
Somehow I still have about half a case in the basement that I rediscover every so often. This is from a batch I brewed over a year ago. They are still damn tasty.

Sounds good.

I only get to brew about once every 6 weeks. When I do get the time to brew I try brew at least 2, sometimes 4 beers together because it makes more sense for my system. 1.5 times the time but 2 times the beer or 2 times the time but 4 times as much beer :D :rockin:

The only "problem" is trying to drink 200 bottles of beer before they go past their peak.

Would be interesting to start a thread getting feedback from people here on which beers from the recipes on here are still going strong after a year in the bottle. Especially ones that are not 15% abv. and 100+ IBU hop monsters. :p

Sorry about going off topic :off:
 
Looks so good!
Really hope to brew this saison,and have some questions:
1. Is the pale wheat malt the same as the white wheat?
2. Is that bottling with some cane sugar instead of using keg could be acceptable?
Thanks for sharing~
:tank:
 
Looks so good!
Really hope to brew this saison,and have some questions:
1. Is the pale wheat malt the same as the white wheat?
2. Is that bottling with some cane sugar instead of using keg could be acceptable?
Thanks for sharing~
:tank:

1. Pale wheat is close enough to white wheat for this recipe.
2. Bottling with sugar is also okay. Make sure you use thick bottles if you plan on carbonating to 3+ volumes. Standard beer bottles should not be carbonated past 3 volumes because they can explode. If I were you, I'd calculate for between 2.8 and 3.0 if you have standard bottles.

Good luck and enjoy!
 
Thanks for your advice,would use 180g dexrose to bottling.
Have bought all the ingredients.May the yeast be healthy for such long traveling.. from US to China ..
 
Post thoughts on this batch, as its really dry I'm curious to hear your thoughts! :rockin:

Mine was also at around that, probably because my OG was slightly lower than then target. It was awesome...really my best brew yet. I enjoyed a glass just last night :)
 
I submitted this beer to Ballast Point's OG20 Annual competition. It scored a 36 which I'm not upset with however, I am disappointed that neither judge wrote a single thing in the comments which really annoys me. If you're not going to give a perfect score at least say why.

Their goal is to rate the beer not improve your brewing, simple as that. Entering into competitions is not an efficient way to get feedback. The amount of brews they need to sift through while still caring is very high, cut them some slack.
 
sorry, I need to work on my internet sarcasm. About half of my saisons have rye and I make them pretty often
 
I brewed this for the third time and hit a FG of 1.000! Pretty excited. I have a question regarding the calculation of the OG. This recipe has a pound of honey. Honey being primarily sugar, when measuring the OG, what is the real value or is the honey part of it. Not sure if this makes sense, but wondering what difference is the honey adding to the calculation and is the OG measure to the fermenter the "real" OG.
 
I brewed this for the third time and hit a FG of 1.000! Pretty excited. I have a question regarding the calculation of the OG. This recipe has a pound of honey. Honey being primarily sugar, when measuring the OG, what is the real value or is the honey part of it. Not sure if this makes sense, but wondering what difference is the honey adding to the calculation and is the OG measure to the fermenter the "real" OG.


It depends when you add the honey. If you add it to the boil at flame out like in this recipe, take a gravity reading as normal after the boil.

If you add it to the fermenter then you can calculate by using 35 ppg as a good starting point. This means that per gallon of liquid, 1 pound of honey will add 35 points. You have to do the math based on your volume. For a 5.0 gallon batch that's 7 points.
 
Has anyone ever tried souring this?

I've had the ingredients for this recipe for a little while but haven't gotten to it yet. Now I'm reading about kettle souring and getting kind of intrigued.

Basically I'm considering mashing this normally, then adding some lactic acid and a lacto source (not sure what that will be yet), letting ph get down to mid-3's for a day or two, then continuing the boil. I brew eBIAB so I could do all of this in a single vessel and not worry about contaminating anything on the cold side.

Thoughts?
 
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