Copper sparge arm

[superbob404]

I'm working on my all grain rig & I built this tonight, I had to use 1/2 on the outside & 3/4 on the inside to get a sipon going. I only drilled holes in the top half so the water would run speratically over the lower part, will this work?

 

[Catt22]

Yes, it looks like it will work OK. One of the biggest problems with any type of ring type sprinkler is that it needs to be very level in order to get the water to distribute evenly. It can certainly be done, but the question is, "is is worth the trouble?". IMO nothing fancy is really needed as the inflow should be very slow and gentle anyway. Long ago, I used a rotating sparge arm gizmo. I now use a simple "H" manifold made from cpvc. The manifold doubles as a return when circulating the wort on my RIMS. The sparge arm could not be used as a wort return as it would plug up very easily and the flow rate was much too slow. A lot of guys just use a section of tubing laying on top of the grain med. It doesn't seem to matter how you get the water into the MT so long as it is added slowly and gently.

 

[onthekeg]

I agree with Catt, and add that an inch or so is perfect on top of the grain bed, more than that it may blind over or compact the bed. Sprinkling on top of the bed without standing water may lead to channeling as the pressure wouldn't be equal. Its a coin toss, an inch of water seems to work for me. No pun intended, LOL.

 

[superbob404]

I figure I can move the HLT alittle to avoid channeling. I should have alittle water above my grain bed when I sparge? Isn't 'very level like very dead'?

 

[onthekeg]

Yes, keep some water on the bed when you sparge.

 

[superbob404]

10-4 thanks for all the help. My mash tun needs about 5 gallons of just water to reach the thermometer, does that seem right for a 10 gallon pot? I got it from Midwest Supplies. It's there a chat feature on this website anywheres?

 

[kal]

Personally I don't think anything fancy is needed. Blichmann with their auto-sparge doesn't do it, Sabco doesn't do it. You can bet if it made a difference, these companies would love to sell big fancy sparging systems.

I use exactly what the two above companies use: A simple piece of silicone hose resting on top of the grain bed. I get 95% efficiency consistently.

Here it is during mashing (HERMS recirculation). During sparging it looks the same except that it's clear water instead of wort.

I say go simple. The simpler the better. Also a LOT easier to clean.

Kal

 

[ikonis]

Personally I don't think anything fancy is needed. Blichmann with their auto-sparge doesn't do it, Sabco doesn't do it. You can bet if it made a difference, these companies would love to sell big fancy sparging systems.

I use exactly what the two above companies use: A simple piece of silicone hose resting on top of the grain bed. I get 95% efficiency consistently.

Here it is during mashing (HERMS recirculation). During sparging it looks the same except that it's clear water instead of wort.

I say go simple. The simpler the better.

Kal

I'll agree with you 100% completely. Then I'll go ahead and show my sparge/recirc manifold. I used to use the "auto"sparge, and it didn't work very well IMHO. Leaks like a sieve. I know that a hose is perfectly fine, but after looking at your rig... makes me feel a bit inadequate. So I've been tinkering with my rig.

That is some loc-line from www.modularhose.com

I have since added the Y connector and made it a complete circle.

 

[kal]

I looked at loc-line way back when. What I had read was that (a) over time it doesn't tend to hold it shape as well, (b) really hard to clean if ever needed, (c) it's plastic (I didn't want to use any plastics, especially with longer term contact with hot, slightly acidic wort ).

Everyone can make their own choice however!

Kal

 

[superbob404]

I thought about using a tube, but isn't building the brew rig part of the fun?

 

[ikonis]

I looked at loc-line way back when. What I had read was that (a) over time it doesn't tend to hold it shape as well, (b) really hard to clean if ever needed, (c) it's plastic (I didn't want to use any plastics, especially with longer term contact with hot, slightly acidic wort ).

Everyone can make their own choice however!

Kal

I weighed all those options, but decided to do it anyways. (a) I hadn't read that, but I didn't read a ton either. (b) At least the holes are big enough to let grain out. I can always pop it off at the NPT fittings and give it a good cleaning. (c) I would have built this out of copper, but I just don't like using copper. Always turns green on me. Same reason why I stopped using the brass mcmaster quick disconnects. And I figure, it's only for mashing, and they do say that it is food safe materials. Guess I could have always sprung for the acid resistant Loc-Line fittings.