Converting the Frigidaire 7.2 cu ft Chest Freezer

[BrewBeemer]

I was lucky. I ordered the black Frigidaire 7.2 over the summer and it sat in my basement until about 1 month ago. I did check out the lid when I received it, but not the sides, nor did I plug it in. However, it's perfect, so with all the reported dents and dings, I got lucky. I've been working on my collar for a while now because as a woodworker, I decided to wrap the hemlock 2 x 10 box in some awesome 1/8" birdseye maple I got off Ebay. I also turned my own tap handles from cocobolo and I made 1 in figured maple because I plan to dedicate 1 for soda and 3 for beer. I thought about waiting until the very end, but I might start a new thread with what I've accomplished so far. Uh.....yes, I'm over budget, but who really has a budget. If I don't add up the costs....then it does not exist.

Cool project please post pictures during the progress stages.
Wood is a great medium in which to express warm beauty. Prost.

 

[MW66]

Quaffer:

In post #7, I just noticed that you have your fan connected to a micro switch. Is this something you bought separately and then screwed it into the side of the freezer body?

 

[Quaffer]

Quaffer:

In post #7, I just noticed that you have your fan connected to a micro switch. Is this something you bought separately and then screwed it into the side of the freezer body?

The switch stops the fan when the door is opened so that it does not expel the cold air, and it prevents me from getting my fingers caught in a spinning fan. The switch breaks one of the low-voltage wires for the fan. I attached it to the inside of the collar. I made a little pocket in the foam board for it.

I have another optional switch mounted on the left side at the compressor compartment. It is a three-position on-off-on switch by which I can turn the fan off, on continuously, or to run with the compressor. It is connected to the hot 120V side of the 6VDC supply. I run the fan continuously when I put a new (warm) keg in the kegerator. I don't know that it makes much difference; I put it in more or less for the fun of it. I decided not to complicate the wiring diagram with these switches. The more complicated it is the more opportunities there are to make a wiring mistake.

 

[Paramecium]

Quaffer,

I am building a Keezer based off of your design and had a couple quick questions. You say that you used 2x8's and then cut them to 1.25, is there any reason that 1x8's could not be used? With the insulation nearly flush with the boards I would think the thickness would not matter much. I have found 1x8's at my local Home Depot but can't seem to find 2x8's.

How far from the top of the collar did you drill the tap holes? I saw 4" on the centers but just that you put them as close to the top as possible.

Thanks,

~Danny

 

[MW66]

If you don't mind my 2 cents, I'll offer an answer. I'm surprised you could not find 2x8's. I bought 2x10 hemlock at Lowe's, but both should have it. I'm sure you could get away with 1x8, but now you're probably at 3/4 inch thickness. The thinner you go, the less structural rigidity, but with the foam you might gain some back. I am currently building a similar design and I located my taps 2 1/4 inches down from the top edge of the collar. It's really a matter of visual taste and pouring height comfort. My collar (finished height is approximately 9 inches and is constructed from 2x10 (I trimmed both edges square to final 8 1/2" height, added a 1/2" thick maple top frame to hide the pink foam board) and my keezer is on a platform suspended by casters, so it's pretty tall. I found that 2 1/4" down was a good height for me and I like the way my tap handles extended above the lid of the freezer. I hope that helps, but I'm sure Quaffer will respond. I'm an east-coaster, so I have a few hours on him.

HD: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Lowe's: http://www.lowes.com/pd_4545-99999-..._prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1

 

[Rick500]

I used 1x8 maple, worked out fine. Been running for a couple years now and stays cool well.

 

[Quaffer]

Quaffer,

I am building a Keezer based off of your design and had a couple quick questions. You say that you used 2x8's and then cut them to 1.25, is there any reason that 1x8's could not be used? With the insulation nearly flush with the boards I would think the thickness would not matter much. I have found 1x8's at my local Home Depot but can't seem to find 2x8's.

How far from the top of the collar did you drill the tap holes? I saw 4" on the centers but just that you put them as close to the top as possible.

Thanks,

~Danny

The seal is one inch wide so I wanted the collar to be at least that thick. The boards I used had a .25" round-over, so by making the boards 1.25" thick I have just enough wood there to properly engage the seal. I attached the collar to the body so I had to provide a surface on the collar for the seal to seat against. If you instead attach the collar to the lid then you can use the original surface on the body to seal against, but you will have to figure out some other issues when moving the seal from the lid to the collar.

I don't remember the distance from the collar top to the faucets but I can check that tonight. I more or less eyeballed it for good looks. I wanted some wood to show above that black cover plate.

 

[Quaffer]

How far from the top of the collar did you drill the tap holes? I saw 4" on the centers but just that you put them as close to the top as possible.
~Danny

Danny, I drilled the holes 1 3/4" from the top of the collar to the center of the tap holes. This distance is not critical at all; whatever looks good to you is the best.

 

[Quaffer]

I am posting the values I have programmed into the Love temperature controller, model TSX-10140.

SP Set Point: 45 now (varies from 33 to 50 depending on use)
r0 Differential hysteresis: 1
r1 Lower value for SP: 32
r2 Higher value for SP: 80
d1 Temperature defrosting stop: 70
d2 Defrosting duration: 0
d4 Delay of first defrosting: 20
d5 Display of defrosting: -d-
d8 Defrosting intervall time: 8
d14 Defrost counting mode: ct
c0 Minimum stopping time: 5
c2 On time of fault cycle: 5
c3 Off time of fault cycle: 55
c4 Minimum ON time: 0
c5 Minimum time between activation: 0
P1 Ambient probe adjustment: 1
P2 Defrosting probe adjustment: 0
P4 Number of probes: 1
H1 Keyboard protection: no
H5 Access code to parameters: 0
H6 Probe type: ntc

Notes:
r0 Differential hysteresis. I have the probe in a plastic drinking glass with about 1.5" of water located on the compressor hump. This combination provides good run-time and off-time.

c0 Minimum stopping time, needed to prevent the kegerator to start with liquid refrigerant in the compressor. After the compressor stops it takes up to 5 minutes for the refrigerant in the compressor to completely evaporate. Initially I had this set to something much less, and as I was programming the controller the compressor started but could not turn. I unplugged it for 5 minutes and everything worked again. It is not necessary to set this above 5 minutes.

P1 Ambient probe adjustment, use this to calibrate your temperature probe using a known good thermometer.

 

[Rick500]

Danny, I drilled the holes 1 3/4" from the top of the collar to the center of the tap holes. This distance is not critical at all; whatever looks good to you is the best.

One thing to think about when determining the faucet mounting height is whether you want your tap handles to protrude above the level of the top of the freezer. You're going to probably tend to put stuff there (glasses, whatever)...and at my house, the cat likes to sleep up there as well. So I decided to drill the holes low enough that my 4" tap handles aren't above the level of the top (so the cat doesn't brush against them and turn them on).

If you're going to use larger tap handles, I guess it doesn't matter one way or the other.

 

[HOP-HEAD]

So I decided to drill the holes low enough that my 4" tap handles aren't above the level of the top (so the cat doesn't brush against them and turn them on).

Easier fix.... lose the cat...

All in fun.

 

[mervmurry]

I've got pin locks. Oddly, kegconnection sent me 2 short and stubby kegs, and my LHBS had tall thinner ones. If you've got the shorter ones, I don't think you'd be able to fit what you want on the bottom.
Skinny and tall, I cant say for sure.

Sounds like what happened to me. I got a 4-pack of ball locks that were converted from pin locks (short and stubbys). Could you tell me how many of the short and stubby kegs you can fit in this frigidaire? I am trying to decide between the frigidaire 7.2 and the kenmore 8.8. Please advise. Thanks in advance!

 

[Clark1]

Notes:
r0 Differential hysteresis. I have the probe in a plastic drinking glass with about 1.5" of water located on the compressor hump. This combination provides good run-time and off-time.

Whenever I use the word "hysteresis", I loose my audience.

In temperature control, hysteresis is the pump turning on at one temp, and not turning back off until it is a few degrees cooler.
This keeps the pump from turning on and off too often and running for a very short time.
The difference between the turn on temp and the lower turn off temp is the hysteresis.

There. I lost my audience 3 times

 

[crackhead7]

I have the Frigidaire 7.2 cu ft freezer and I can fit four stubby kegs on the floor but then i dont have room form my 20lb tank inside, I purchased 8 kegs. four from ebay the stubby firestones and four from sabco the taller ones. I can fit four taller ones and my 20lb tank (only after I exchanged the steel one for an aluminim tank its thinner I believe) on the floor w/ two stubby kegs on the hump, which is my best arrangment.

 

[mervmurry]

I have the Frigidaire 7.2 cu ft freezer and I can fit four stubby kegs on the floor but then i dont have room form my 20lb tank inside, I purchased 8 kegs. four from ebay the stubby firestones and four from sabco the taller ones. I can fit four taller ones and my 20lb tank (only after I exchanged the steel one for an aluminim tank its thinner I believe) on the floor w/ two stubby kegs on the hump, which is my best arrangment.

I was hoping that was the case. Thanks for your help! If anyone could tell me the interior dimensions of this freezer, that'd be great. I am hoping to get the most out of the freezer but am still considering the Kenmore 8.8 from Sears.

 

[MW66]

I'm almost done with my conversion. I have a 15lb aluminum tank on the floor with 3 cornies. I could fit 2 more on the hump, but I'm only planning for 1 since I have 4 taps. The extra space on the hump will be used for my fan and my Eva-Dry 500 to keep moisture to a minimum. I could also throw in some bottles or a Growler.

 

[hoplover]

for those of you using rare earth magnets to hold drip tray, where are you finding them? The only ones I could find were at radio shack and really small

 

[MW66]

Ebay. Look for Magnets4Less. However, I have some and I'm still using the tape. I tried my rare earth magnets and the brackets slid down the smooth surface of the freezer.

 

[crackhead7]

Magnets

try this link!

 

[horric29]

I ran with design but, made a few "design" changes. I glued the lid to the collar and mounted the collar to the body via the hinges.

I'm running into a problem however now... Seems the hinges after everything is added arn't supporting the weight of the lid. I mounted the dual body regulators to the collar, along with the love controller, a GFCI outlet that I wired in for convienience sake, and the taps/shanks... I havn't even added the lines yet... The fan seems is the model from Radio Shack, an 120V AC fan that is all metal, it added quite a bit of weight, as did the dual body regulators with the high pressure hose. I did this to really get things out of the way when the lid is lifted up...

It really keeps things clean but, I'm wondering if I can just add another pair of hinges for some added strength... Does anyone know if it's possible to add more hinges without drilling through coolent coils on this one? I was thinking of adding another pair, just using self tapping metal screws and then of course attaching to the lid... Any thoughts? I've come too far to blow this thing up! I guess the easy thing would be to just make a wood bar to prop the lid up...

 

[EasyE]

"I'm running into a problem however now... Seems the hinges after everything is added arn't supporting the weight of the lid."

Another reason to mount the lid to the freezer. I would avoid drilling into the side of the keezer to avoid puncturing the lines. What if you constructed a prop to hold up the lid when you lift it, like the hood of your automobile. Is it possible to remove the collar to the keezer and mount the lid to the collar. Good luck with it.

 

[horric29]

"I'm running into a problem however now... Seems the hinges after everything is added arn't supporting the weight of the lid."

Another reason to mount the lid to the freezer. I would avoid drilling into the side of the keezer to avoid puncturing the lines. What if you constructed a prop to hold up the lid when you lift it, like the hood of your automobile. Is it possible to remove the collar to the keezer and mount the lid to the collar. Good luck with it.

Yea, I thought of that but, it's not the best looking solution and so far, it looks great. I'm wondering if I could somehow create a good shim to attach to both the lid and the back of the freezer with glue, JB weld, or likewise that I could screw a hinge into... This morning it was staying up without assistance so as the breeze blows I guess...

 

[2puttbird]

FWIW, I'm planning to use a prop if I have that problem with mine because I am also building one with a collar that lifts.

 

[horric29]

FWIW, I'm planning to use a prop if I have that problem with mine because I am also building one with a collar that lifts.

Good to know. I ordered another hinge. I think I'm going to try and gorilla glue a 1" strip to the freezer with gorilla glue and then try to attach the hinge that way so I'm not screwing into the freezer. I'm hoping the gorilla glue is strong enough to support the piece of wood and the weight... I think 3 hinges should do it...

My failure was getting the mountable high pressure guages rather than just leaving the guages on the CO2 bottle... Those guages weight too much. If I glued the collar to the frame, there would be no problems... Oh well, hopefully in the future someone pulls up this thread and sees what I did! LOL

 

[Quaffer]

It really keeps things clean but, I'm wondering if I can just add another pair of hinges for some added strength... Does anyone know if it's possible to add more hinges without drilling through coolent coils on this one? I was thinking of adding another pair, just using self tapping metal screws and then of course attaching to the lid... Any thoughts? I've come too far to blow this thing up! I guess the easy thing would be to just make a wood bar to prop the lid up...

Please do not drill through the freezer wall. If you drill into a line the freezer is toast.
Gluing should be safe, but is it strong enough? You may have to sand off the paint to make a clean metal surface, I'm not sure.

 

[duckmanco]

I read that BYO build article for weeks, and after much deliberation, finally pulled the trigger, assembled everything today and all was going well until I realized that apparently staining pine (Lowe's top choice 2x8) doesn't seem to be working that well. I tried 1/2 pint of the Minwax Cherry and it just looked like I was brushing dirty water onto the wood and NOTHING even close to cherry. The BYO build article didn't mention the use of hemlock (which I now bet stains much better) so I ASSUMED (which usually doesn't work out) that it was a 2x8 from any home improvement store.....

so, any people with wood/stain knowledge have any ideas on what stain color/brand, prep work/chemicals/treatments or techniques to use on my pine collar? I'd like something with a redish tint to it, as my hardwood floors are cherry-ish. Great design BTW.

 

[Jota21]

they make something called a 'wood conditioner' which supposedly lets the stain absorb evenly into the wood. I've never tried it, so do some research, but it sounds like that might help.

Also, was the stain stirred (not shaken) enough? Sounds like the sediment might still be all at the bottom...

 

[MW66]

they make something called a 'wood conditioner' which supposedly lets the stain absorb evenly into the wood. I've never tried it, so do some research, but it sounds like that might help.

Also, was the stain stirred (not shaken) enough? Sounds like the sediment might still be all at the bottom...

Jota21 beat me to it, but as a woodworker, I know there are certain species that stain horribly. Such as pine (or spruce/hemlock), maple, cherry, poplar, and several others. You need to block the pores somewhat on these types of woods. You can use conditioner as mentioned or a thin wash coat of shellac. Also, using a gel stain works better than an oil stain. If it were me, I would sand it and start over. If it's too much of a pain, then I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[horric29]

I read that BYO build article for weeks, and after much deliberation, finally pulled the trigger, assembled everything today and all was going well until I realized that apparently staining pine (Lowe's top choice 2x8) doesn't seem to be working that well. I tried 1/2 pint of the Minwax Cherry and it just looked like I was brushing dirty water onto the wood and NOTHING even close to cherry. The BYO build article didn't mention the use of hemlock (which I now bet stains much better) so I ASSUMED (which usually doesn't work out) that it was a 2x8 from any home improvement store.....

so, any people with wood/stain knowledge have any ideas on what stain color/brand, prep work/chemicals/treatments or techniques to use on my pine collar? I'd like something with a redish tint to it, as my hardwood floors are cherry-ish. Great design BTW.

I used the Radiata Select... Only a 6" Collar though and it stained well, I just had to give it three coats of stain... I then gave it three coats of poly...

On another side note, the wood glued on with epoxy seems to be doing the trick for holding a third hinge... Just food for thought... We'll see in the long run. The epoxy is rated at 3200 PSI of holding force? Seems like the wood would give out before the epoxy but, I'm not really an expert or a pro at any of this...

 

[Paramecium]

I know on Maple they say to use Shellac. Perhaps pine is the same way.