Converting electric kettle not sure on element choice??

[dogslapbrewery]

Im setting up a single element brew kettle, I've already got my gfci line installed with the proper amps/voltage, control unit is pieced together and will be arriving shortly. Planning on going with a 5000-5500 watt element for average of 8-14 gallon boils. I was thinking about the blichmann boilcoil but it's pretty pricey and the largest I can fit into my kettle is their 5000w version. I'm also concerned about the availability of this coil years down the road. Definitely would like to lean towards something that allows me to disconnect the cable for easy cleaning and will be available through multiple distributors which leads me towards a tri clamp element with the 3 prong plugs right on it. They seem to be available for around 50-60 bucks on amazon but I'm leery of quality, Brewboss offers this style element with all the installation equipment for 150 which is only 30 bucks cheaper then blichmann but it would give me tri clamp compatibility which I feel will be around forever and easy to source replacement elements. Is the advantage of being able to quick remove the element and cable worth the extra amount? Being my first step into the electric community I'm asking for experience and first hand knowledge of the different elements, what works best pros/cons?
Cheers!

 

[augiedoggy]

Why are you leery of the cheaper tri clamp units? Have you seen any reports or evidence of dangerous failures to justify this? (I have not) I've been using one of these very elements for years that I bought directly from the manufacturer for $16 (theres a lot of markups normally involved it seems) Brewhardware sells the weldless bulkhead for about $25. They sell brewbosses elements for 75 you can buy the female plug and cord for much less at lowes or home depot.. that said I highly doubt support for the blichmann elements will dry up but the cost is very high for a proprietary element from them and no real functionality benefit.

 

[dogslapbrewery]

Why are you leery of the cheaper tri clamp units? Have you seen any reports or evidence of dangerous failures to justify this? (I have not) I've been using one of these very elements for years that I bought directly from the manufacturer for $16 (theres a lot of markups normally involved it seems) Brewhardware sells the weldless bulkhead for about $25. They sell brewbosses elements for 75 you can buy the female plug and cord for much less at lowes or home depot.. that said I highly doubt support for the blichmann elements will dry up but the cost is very high for a proprietary element from them and no real functionality benefit.

Just based off couple reviews issues with the prongs being pretty cheap and flimsy or having to add a silicon seal around the plug to seal up potential exposed gaps. This was all in amazon for about $50-60 and I just figured for $15-20 more I could go for the brew boss Which seems pretty solid. Its not a better deal bundling up all the parts in brewboss so I was just going to leave behind the cord and drill bit and source those through Amazon. If I could get the tri clamp element for $16 I'd definitely to that! Also I've found a lot of the specific smaller brew parts arent available through amazon so it'll be cheaper if I can get all this through one distributor and avoid multiple shipping charges. What are some good sources??

 

[Wizard_of_Frobozz]

What are some good sources??

https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1902.htm

 

[dogslapbrewery]

https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1902.htm

Shipping rates are pretty good but seems like the average price for a 5500w tri clamp element sits around 60-75

 

[gnef]

Have you considered a tri clamp ferrule on your kettle with a separate tri clamp element enclosure?

This will be more expensive, but it will allow you to forever use standard heating elements, and you can wire it up however you want, and can disassemble it with a single triclamp.

I personally went with the radius 2" tri clamp ferrule from brewhardware, the enclosure from still dragon, wiring from an RV 30 amp extension cord off amazon, and stainless 5500W dernord element off amazon (these are high density, but I haven't had issues with scorching, and I've tried!) If you are doing 14 gallons, you may want to consider going up to 6500W, though the 5500W will do the job, just not as quickly for the big batches, and your wiring and GFCI need to be matched for capacity (only run them at 80% capacity for best practice).

 

[dogslapbrewery]

Have you considered a tri clamp ferrule on your kettle with a separate tri clamp element enclosure?

This will be more expensive, but it will allow you to forever use standard heating elements, and you can wire it up however you want, and can disassemble it with a single triclamp.

I personally went with the radius 2" tri clamp ferrule from brewhardware, the enclosure from still dragon, wiring from an RV 30 amp extension cord off amazon, and stainless 5500W dernord element off amazon (these are high density, but I haven't had issues with scorching, and I've tried!) If you are doing 14 gallons, you may want to consider going up to 6500W, though the 5500W will do the job, just not as quickly for the big batches, and your wiring and GFCI need to be matched for capacity (only run them at 80% capacity for best practice).

In not familiar with a tri clamp ferrule but I like that idea of being able to use the basic bulk head element, is this the basic idea of the ferrule?

 

[gnef]

That isn't the ferrule, that is the element enclosure.

This is the one I have: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc2rsf.htm
Brewhardware also sells weldless versions if you don't want to solder or weld

It is listed as a solder flange, which is probably why you couldn't find it. I guess the word ferrule is used more for the welded ones that are longer?

That enclosure looks nice, this is the one that I use, and am happy with: http://stilldragon.com/index.php/element-guard-kit.html
brewhardware also sells one called hot pod: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/2etc.htm

I will say as a limitation for the still dragon enclosure, I had issues fitting a wavy low density element through it - it got stuck at a bend. I wasn't willing to try to bend the element to get it in, so I just use high density 5500W straight elements, and honestly, I haven't had any problems with scorching, and I've done some tests at 100% to see if I could tell.

 

[4of7]

In not familiar with a tri clamp ferrule but I like that idea of being able to use the basic bulk head element, is this the basic idea of the ferrule?View attachment 598817

This is the one i have. Yes it works great.got it from Bobby