Cold Crashing To Prevent Further Fermentation

[stylus1274]

Hello -

I am sure there is already 100 threads about this but I am having an issue finding one.

I'm day 4 into primary fermentation which is about done. Right now I'm at my target gravity and don't want it to go any further as I prefer to stick within the style's guidelines.

Maybe it's 'done' and it will not drop anymore points but I prefer to not chance it.

I thought about cold crashing it to stop it from doing so. But I'm wondering about the negative affects this may have.

Obviously I want the yeast to continue to work and clean everything up for the remainder of the 2 weeks.

Wondering if there are any thoughts on this?

Thanks

 

[AMessenger]

Cold crashing can stop a fermentation but doesn't kill the yeast. You'll likely find that fermentaion will start back up once the beer warms up a bit. If this is after you bottle you could end up with over carbonated beer or bottle bombs. You could also try campden tablets to shock the yeast but could have similar issues.

Most of the control we have over FG is had through controlling the fermentability of the wort. Once fermentaion is underway you have to just hope that the yeast behave the way you'd expect given the wort you've provided them. Difficult to hit exact numbers with a new recipe.

Hitting the exact FG you are targeting is satisfying but it wont make or break the beer if you are off a bit.

 

[RM-MN]

When you "make beer" you make the wort (or let someone else do it in the case of using extract) and pitch the yeast. Yeast make beer from your wort. Your target FG is just that, a target. The yeast decide where the FG will finally end.

If you want to stop the yeast from further activity you have to kill it. Dead yeast doesn't do cleanup and you cannot bottle condition without live yeast. If you stop the yeast now and then bottle you will get overcarbonated beer or bottle bombs because the yeast will restart and continue until they have eaten all the yeast.

If you really "have to" have your beer fit within guidelines, make a new batch with different conditions so it will finish at the target FG.

 

[stylus1274]

When you "make beer" you make the wort (or let someone else do it in the case of using extract) and pitch the yeast. Yeast make beer from your wort. Your target FG is just that, a target. The yeast decide where the FG will finally end.

If you want to stop the yeast from further activity you have to kill it. Dead yeast doesn't do cleanup and you cannot bottle condition without live yeast. If you stop the yeast now and then bottle you will get overcarbonated beer or bottle bombs because the yeast will restart and continue until they have eaten all the yeast.

If you really "have to" have your beer fit within guidelines, make a new batch with different conditions so it will finish at the target FG.

I don't have to hit my target. It's just my preference.

I will keg this batch so bottle bombs are not an issue.

Clean up is my hang up. I think I prefer to have a 'cleaner' beer more than having it hit my preferred number.

Thanks for your input.

 

[stylus1274]

Cold crashing can stop a fermentation but doesn't kill the yeast. You'll likely find that fermentaion will start back up once the beer warms up a bit. If this is after you bottle you could end up with over carbonated beer or bottle bombs. You could also try campden tablets to shock the yeast but could have similar issues.

Most of the control we have over FG is had through controlling the fermentability of the wort. Once fermentaion is underway you have to just hope that the yeast behave the way you'd expect given the wort you've provided them. Difficult to hit exact numbers with a new recipe.

Hitting the exact FG you are targeting is satisfying but it wont make or break the beer if you are off a bit.

It's not about trying to hit my number. It's about having a dry and higher ABV than I want for the beer.

I'm making a hef and am not trying to end up with 7% if you know what I mean

The answers I am getting from you guys I already assumed before posting. It was more a shot in the dark than anything else.

 

[ericbw]

Why do you think it will keep dropping? It might have gotten there fast and now it's just hanging out cleaning up. 4 days is pretty quick, but not impossible.

How are you checking gravity?

 

[stylus1274]

Why do you think it will keep dropping? It might have gotten there fast and now it's just hanging out cleaning up. 4 days is pretty quick, but not impossible.

How are you checking gravity?

It very well may stay at 1.014. My post is more out of curiosity than "oh my God, what am I going to do?".

I'm checking with a good ol' hydrometer.

 

[kh54s10]

The yeast will only go so far. Unless you have reason to think the gravity will go much lower, I suggest that you do nothing. Cold crashing is for dropping sediment in suspension. If cold enough it will stop the yeast from fermenting the wort any more. I would think it would also stop them from "cleaning up".

At four days the majority of the movement of gravity is probably already done. It may drop another couple of points or it might not.

You don't give any numbers, but I doubt any difference in ABV would be less than noticeable.

 

[dyqik]

Depending on the yeast, it might be done in under two days.

If you really want/need to bring the FG back up, you could add lactose or similar, as is done for milk stouts etc.

 

[SlitheryDee]

My inclination would be to work on getting closer to your desired gravity on the next beer rather than trying to force this one there. Mash temperature apparently does have a large impact on the wort fermentability in the case of all grain, and steeping grains could get you there with extract. One thing that seems to be the case with making beer is that once you pitch the yeast, you kind of have to live with the result unless you're willing to go through some relatively extreme measures.