CO2 gone in no time.

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Elmo Peach

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I am new to kegging and I don't know what I did wrong but have used two 5 lb tanks on 2 kegs seems too fast. Any help would be great
 
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it only takes about an ounce to carb, and an ounce to push a 5gallon keg.. even doing closed transfers, and purging the keg for the transfer, that's still alot of co2.

figure out how you want to pin point a leak....more shut off points you have the easier it is. and i'd recmomend keeping the tank shut off, when not needed till you find it....
 
Tank washer? What is PRV
I don't think I have a tank washer on this unit. I got the reg.2nd hand with the keg and mini fridge. I did transfer star san from one keg to anoter.
 
Tanke washer? I don't think so I got the reg.2nd hand with the keg and mini fridge.


that would be a killer! they give them away most of the time with a tank swap, just ask for one next swap, or order a pack off ebay for $2-or so bucks....they should be swapped for a new one every 3-5 swaps....

(or $8, whatever, still cheap...)


https://www.ebay.com/itm/353300860478?hash=item52425f4e3e:g:-bsAAOSwTC5fxjVq
before i learned that, i lost a few 20lb tanks, thinking they should only last a month, lol
 
What is PRV

Pressure Release Valve. It's a valve on the keg (normally on the lid) that releases under huge pressures (safety valve), but most are dual-function in that you can also manually release them but pulling upwards. If the manual one's not screwed in properly, or if the seal is damaged, they can leak.
 
As others have hinted, already:
Yup, you've got a leak, or multiples, somewhere!

When troubleshooting such, narrow it down by isolating each distinct area, from tank valve, to regulator connection, to lines, then to each keg.

Make sure the tank valve is either all the way open or all the way closed. IOW, do not operate halfway open!
 
My regulator has a barb and and I have lost plenty through that until I noticed and tightened it up. Normally you can hear leaks but not this time.
 
I do enjoy having a draft beer and I am sure I will fix the problem thanks for the help.
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OK I will try that I am pretty good at finding problems I was a repair man for 30 years.

It is a corny keg.
if you’ve eliminated potential spots for leaks such as lid gasket, posts, PRV, gas line connections to regulator, etc., remember that you should always open/ close the valve on the tank itself completely! Only partially opening will cause a leak.
 
Make sure to replace poppet and dip tube o-rings, they get oxidized/weathered and can develop cracks or flat spots. I replace them each keg cleaning. Also lube them with food grade silicone grease.
 
I just lost the contents of a cylinder because my gas lines had cracked around the hose barb.
 
Some bubble leak detector works well finding leaks wherever they are. I use stuff from a HVCA supply place, but kid's bubble blowing mix works OK too. Good stuff to have around, finds gas leaks as well as those in tires, compressed air systems and refrigeration.
 
Make sure to replace poppet and dip tube o-rings, they get oxidized/weathered and can develop cracks or flat spots. I replace them each keg cleaning. Also lube them with food grade silicone grease.
I have order new ring sets for all kegs so I will change them all I di not think about the pop it I will change them also
 
I don't mean to hijack, but this is related. It seems the new regulators don't require a tank gasket but rather use a rubber o-ring on the regulator. It's a stupid design imho, and mine leaks a little. My local brew supply store doesn't have the o-rings but only the tank gaskets. Does anyone know if you can eliminate the o-ring and just use a tank gasket?
 
Make sure the tank valve is either all the way open or all the way closed. IOW, do not operate halfway open!
I've only recently heard that...for propane stuff. I assume all tank valves are similar? I supposed the valve can leak if not fully open or closed?
 
I've only recently heard that...for propane stuff. I assume all tank valves are similar? I supposed the valve can leak if not fully open or closed?
Only in the fully open position the valve stem packing (inside the valve assembly) will compress and make a seal. That's what I've read, and understand the reason to be.
 
I don't mean to hijack, but this is related. It seems the new regulators don't require a tank gasket but rather use a rubber o-ring on the regulator. It's a stupid design imho, and mine leaks a little. My local brew supply store doesn't have the o-rings but only the tank gaskets. Does anyone know if you can eliminate the o-ring and just use a tank gasket?


my taprite had the stupid o-ring, it didn't work..i used a tank washer anyway, kept a good seal that way...
 
I don't mean to hijack, but this is related. It seems the new regulators don't require a tank gasket but rather use a rubber o-ring on the regulator. It's a stupid design imho, and mine leaks a little. My local brew supply store doesn't have the o-rings but only the tank gaskets. Does anyone know if you can eliminate the o-ring and just use a tank gasket?

Are you talking about the o-ring that’s built into the regulator side? My tap-rite has those but I still use the nylon washer in addition to it. When I was first kegging I lost a whole tank pretty quickly. When I brought it to my welding supply shop to get it filled the guy immediately diagnosed the issue and gave me a couple of those nylon washers. After that, that wasn’t an issue; I’ve had other leaks but never from the tank post. I tape an extra to the backside of my regulator so I never lose one.
 
my taprite had the stupid o-ring, it didn't work..i used a tank washer anyway, kept a good seal that way...
too elaborate:

the first time i used the tap-rite o-ring, it worked, on a steel tank with a solid hook up. when i swapped my tank, it was aluminum, and had a grove right where that o-ring should have made a seal. and being i swap, and never know, i just use a washer.

Just to give you an idea, my 20 lb tank services my 3 keg kegerator (at any given time there is 1-3 kegs on) and it is still going strong just short of 4 years later.

LOL, yeah i pour 10-12 pours a day, and my 20lb'r lasts 10-12 months...and being i keep my tank on a scale, i know i use 0.2ozs a day pouring that much....and about 2ozs to purge and another 1 oz to burst carb.....

and my "20lb" tanks are usually only filled with 18lbs co2, so 288ozs/4ozs=~72 kegs...
 
LOL, yeah i pour 10-12 pours a day, and my 20lb'r lasts 10-12 months...and being i keep my tank on a scale, i know i use 0.2ozs a day pouring that much....and about 2ozs to purge and another 1 oz to burst carb.....

and my "20lb" tanks are usually only filled with 18lbs co2, so 288ozs/4ozs=~72 kegs...

I like the scale idea, I have no clue what's left in mine. I don't pour anywhere near as often as you do so 4 years probably makes sense!

What kind of scale do you use? Do you have a link to it?
Thanks!
 
What kind of scale do you use? Do you have a link to it?


this is mine, it stays on 24/7 as long as it's plugged into a wall outlet...so it gives me peace of mind glancing at it every pour and at night, then in the morning....making sure it doesn't all the sudden lose 8ozs or some BS...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYA0RC2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
got the tip from someone else here a year ago, that kept their kegs on something similar...wish i could remember who, so i could give credit to the original idea man!

edit: works great for burst carbing too!
 
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this is mine, it stays on 24/7 as long as it's plugged into a wall outlet...so it gives me peace of mind glancing at it every pour and at night, then in the morning....making sure it doesn't all the sudden lose 8ozs or some BS...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYA0RC2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
got the tip from someone else here a year ago, that kept their kegs on something similar...wish i could remember who, so i could give credit to the original idea man!

edit: works great for burst carbing too!

This is brilliant. Love this idea. Thanks for link!
 
I lost a 20 LBS tank overnight, I hope this thing fixes it. Taprite Retainer Screw for Permanent O-Ring


as coincidence would have it....just got reminded of an old thread, as i was remenising about things i've forgeten i said...this was the last post....and this part is what you need to screw into the tank, i believe, for a tap-rite o-ring to work...
 
I’ll see if I can locate the numbers. You can buy a lifetime’s worth of O-rings for minimal cost if you buy them bulk online. These are red silicone rubber rings, they are an upgrade from the buna rings usually used.
C24CBC7F-8D90-4A9F-A0AE-E2E8A85718CA.jpeg
 
You can buy a lifetime’s worth of O-rings for minimal cost if you buy them bulk online.
I totally agree with that! 50 cents for 1 O-ring vs. $4-6 for a 100 in bulk.

These are red silicone rubber rings, they are an upgrade from the buna rings usually used.
What makes them an upgrade? Silicone is very O2 permeable, much more so than Buna-N.
 
Agreed, silicone should be avoided on the cold side. As well, you cannot use silicone grease aka "keg lube" as it will slowly dissolve those O-rings leaving deposits inside QDs and given enough time make a QD difficult to remove from a keg post (bt/dt, all my keg posts now use Buna-N rings)...

Cheers!
 
I find a lot of the buna O-rings develop cracks prematurely causing early leakage. Not an issue with the silicone.

While I would agree that O2 permeability of silicone rubber tubing would be an issue, I’ve never experienced a problem using them as poppet O-rings. I change mine out each keg cleaning anyway, good practice for minimizing CO2 losses.

Again on the silicone lube, I’m changing it all out each cycle, never a problem dissolving a ring.

Most black rubber parts are produced in China, it seems the standards for black rubber items aren’t always there. The quality is all over the place, you never know what compounds they are using and a LOT of them crack prematurely. I got tired of finding cracked black O-rings and constantly refilling the CO2 tanks. Much improved with the silicone rings.
 
Are you talking about the o-ring that’s built into the regulator side? My tap-rite has those but I still use the nylon washer in addition to it. When I was first kegging I lost a whole tank pretty quickly. When I brought it to my welding supply shop to get it filled the guy immediately diagnosed the issue and gave me a couple of those nylon washers. After that, that wasn’t an issue; I’ve had other leaks but never from the tank post. I tape an extra to the backside of my regulator so I never lose one.
Thank you, yes, that is the o-ring I'm talking about. I tried the nylon washer in addition and it still leaks some. I have other regulators without the o-ring that do not leak with only the nylon washer. Pisses me of that some manufacturer would redesign something that works fine with a design that isn't reliable.
 
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