Closed-circuit Fermentor-to-Keg Transfer

[mongoose33]

Depending on the method I'm using:

1. My "default" carbing method is to use a keg with an additional QDC added to the middle of the lid. Carb stone is attached to this QDC and carbing is done in 2-3 days, headspace doesn't matter I then transfer to another keg to serve.
2. IF I want to force carb "normally" I'll put pressure on the keg then hook a picnic tap to the gas in and pour beer out (or more realistically drink) down to the bottom of the gas in pickup. Oversizing batches by a gallon or two helps still end up with full kegs.
3. I've started experimenting with natural carbing with a spunding valve. In this case headspace doesn't matter.

Ahhh....I wondered if you were doing something like that. How hard or easy is it to clean and sanitize that carb stone? I've liked that idea since I first read about it.

Other question, maybe not appropriate here: last night when i was force carbing, I turned the pressure up to 30psi, then rocked the keg. I could of course hear the gas bubbling in as I rocked the keg, but my problem is that I have no way to tell if I overcarb it. I want it to serving pressure of 10-12 PSI, and it's clear that if I kept rocking the keg, at some point I'd have gotten higher than 10-12.

Is there way with a spunding valve to determine pressure? In other words, I'd carb at high pressure, then remove the gas QD, shake some more until I was at a presumed equilibrium, then attach a spunding valve w/ a pressure gauge to check?

 

[jddevinn]

Ahhh....I wondered if you were doing something like that. How hard or easy is it to clean and sanitize that carb stone? I've liked that idea since I first read about it.

Honestly, I haven't had any issues.. however, I don't really like that I added NPT fittings to the inside of my keg. It was the best "brite tank" I could come up with at the time however. Basically this but DIY. SSbrew is coming out with a bright tank and I expect if it sells well others will follow.

I end up filling the keg with sanitizer solution, putting the lid (due to the NPT parts) and the stone into boiling water for about 10-15 minutes, putting on the keg and attempting to get out all of the air bubble then pushing the sanitizer out. When I clean out the keg I blow some CO2 through the stone to make sure it is dry.

Other question, maybe not appropriate here: last night when i was force carbing, I turned the pressure up to 30psi, then rocked the keg. I could of course hear the gas bubbling in as I rocked the keg, but my problem is that I have no way to tell if I overcarb it. I want it to serving pressure of 10-12 PSI, and it's clear that if I kept rocking the keg, at some point I'd have gotten higher than 10-12.

Lots of people go over pressure and "burst" carb. I don't like to do this as there is a good chance to overshoot your target carbonation level. You should select your pressure based on the temperature and carb volumes that you are serving at. You can carb quicker by holding the keg at a lower than serving temperature and using the corresponding pressure. Most of the beer styles I make are too green at this point anyway and I sit on the kegs for weeks before serving.[/QUOTE]

Is there way with a spunding valve to determine pressure? In other words, I'd carb at high pressure, then remove the gas QD, shake some more until I was at a presumed equilibrium, then attach a spunding valve w/ a pressure gauge to check?

You wouldn't need a spunding valve for this, just a pressure gauge on a QDC. The spunding valve is basically a pressure relief valve, so if I set it to say 20psi it will maintain the pressure at 20psi... if it goes above it'll bleed back down to 20psi.

I wouldn't put too much effort into this. If you need 12psi for your carbonation level you can set at 12psi and shake, you're not going to get much quicker absorption by setting to 30psi.

 

[Gustatorian]

I sit my kegs on a scale. 50 pounds of fluid is almost 5 gallons in the keg. That's how I know when to stop transferring.

 

[user 141939]

I sit my kegs on a scale. 50 pounds of fluid is almost 5 gallons in the keg. That's how I know when to stop transferring.

This sounds easiest to me I suppose I'll buy scale.

 

[TexasWine]

This sounds easiest to me I suppose I'll buy scale.

Digital luggage scale is another option you might consider.

 

[jddevinn]

I use this scale as my grain scale. I used to use it with kegs, they fit almost perfectly on the surface.

 

[popquizkid]

The scale is a great idea and something that I have never thought of.

I almost always cold crash before transfer which makes it pretty easy to see where the fill level is as water condensates on the outside and you can also put your hand ont he side of keg and tell where the fill line is by temperature.

 

[Gustatorian]

The scale is a great idea and something that I have never thought of.

I almost always cold crash before transfer which makes it pretty easy to see where the fill level is as water condensates on the outside and you can also put your hand ont he side of keg and tell where the fill line is by temperature.

I don't cold-crash but I need to start. The condensation thing sounds like a solid idea. I guess you could also tap on the side of the keg to hear the different tympanic sounds it would make between liquid and no liquid...never tried it though.

 

[jddevinn]

The scale is a great idea and something that I have never thought of.

I almost always cold crash before transfer which makes it pretty easy to see where the fill level is as water condensates on the outside and you can also put your hand ont he side of keg and tell where the fill line is by temperature.

Depends on the transfer rate When I positive pressure transfer the keg can get filled in a couple minutes... the condensate line always lags behind due to the the (small) thermal mass of the keg walls.