Chiller question

[ISLAGI]

I'm thinking about putting together an IC this weekend, and it led me to a question for any of you who know thermog*ddamics....

I am planning on using 50 ft 1/2" copper foe the coil. The question is, assuming it fits into your pot, would a taller or wider coil be better?

I can see arguments on either side. The wider coil I could see covering a wider cross-section of the pot. The taller coil I could see potentially creating a better convection flow because the cold would tend to create a downward flow in the wort.

Anyone got any thoughts?

Thanks,

 

[BrownsBrewing]

I purchased and built my own IC. I used 1/2" copper coil as well with comp fittings to step up to wash machine SS hose. It actually cost $30 more thatn just buying one from your LHBS

 

[BrownsBrewing]

Even at MY cost

 

[ISLAGI]

Maybe I am just being cheap, but I can put a chiller together for about $55....50 ft. long and 1/2" tubing.

The LHBS has a 25' X 3/8" for $58

What is your cost?

 

[MilwaukeeBrewGuy]

i would think a bit taller if you are doing 5 gal batches. This way you could eventually whirlpool and run the wort over the coils that are not submerged in hot wort.

 

[HOP-HEAD]

I filled my pot to about 5.5-6.0 gallons, or about how full I planned to boil... I then measured the depth and divided by my coil diameter to calc how many coils I could fit. (i.e., 10 inches deep would be about 20x 1/2" coils) I then used that number to back in the desired diameter of my coils... [45' of copper = 20 coils at (3.14 x ___dia)]=> .717' or 8.6" that way 45' of my copper is fully submerged as coils, with 5' left to make the uprights. Maybe anal, but all of my copper is cooling, it's fully submerged, and it cools my 5+ gal boils in about 13-15 min.

 

[BrewBeemer]

I filled my pot to about 5.5-6.0 gallons, or about how full I planned to boil... I then measured the depth and divided by my coil diameter to calc how many coils I could fit. (i.e., 10 inches deep would be about 20x 1/2" coils) I then used that number to back in the desired diameter of my coils... [45' of copper = 20 coils at (3.14 x ___dia)]=> .717' or 8.6" that way 45' of my copper is fully submerged as coils, with 5' left to make the uprights. Maybe anal, but all of my copper is cooling, it's fully submerged, and it cools my 5+ gal boils in about 13-15 min.

That is a bad figure to use 20 coils of 1/2" copper tubing for a chiller of only 10" tall. You need a gap between each coil even if it is only an 1/8" it would vastly increase your cooling capacity. Especially if you also have whirlpool action your again increasing your cooling big time. I would add short legs to get the coils off the bottom of your keg, me thinks something like 1/2" minimum. This to still keep the top coils in the wort on small brew batches. JMO's.

 

[BrownsBrewing]

I spent $55 for the flex copper, $22 for the SS washer hoses and approx. $10 on the fittings. Total roughly $87 @ Home S***hole

 

[BrownsBrewing]

Thats the cost from the contractors desk. I think I got jipped. My plumbing supply houe is a lot cheaper.

 

[HOP-HEAD]

That is a bad figure to use 20 coils of 1/2" copper tubing for a chiller of only 10" tall. You need a gap between each coil even if it is only an 1/8" it would vastly increase your cooling capacity. Especially if you also have whirlpool action your again increasing your cooling big time. I would add short legs to get the coils off the bottom of your keg, me thinks something like 1/2" minimum. This to still keep the top coils in the wort on small brew batches. JMO's.

It's not gospel, dude, it's a starting point. I too, subtracted 3 coils wroth to add a step at the bottom, and added a gap the width of tie wire... but I also did not end up with a pile of waste copper, or a chiller that suspends half way out of my wort.

 

[BierMuncher]

I strive for total submersion.

You'll find that you're going to need to take that IC and use it to give the wort a good, gentle stirring every 4-5 minutes to blend the cooled wort close to the copper and the hot wort on the outside areas of the kettle.

Keep that coil submerged, and keep that wort moving.

 

[mrburnsbud]

Heat transfer is a function of surface area, mass flow rate of cooling water, convection coefficient (velocity of wort, how vigorous you stir), thermal conductivity of tubing and temps. For you, all of these things are pretty much fixed, but you should be able to control the convection coefficant which is primarly a function of velocity. So to increase this

2) Coils should fill entire volume
3) Leave adequate spacing between coils and kettle wall
4) Leave adequate spacing between coils themselves
5) And stir like no other!!! Most important fluid velocity!!! Be carful not to introduce nasties.

ps. I don't use a IC, but a CFC. definately recommend to spend the extra time and money to make one.

 

[BrewBeemer]

It's not gospel, dude, it's a starting point. I too, subtracted 3 coils wroth to add a step at the bottom, and added a gap the width of tie wire... but I also did not end up with a pile of waste copper, or a chiller that suspends half way out of my wort.

"Dude" is used in San Francisco's Castro or the Gay district. We had enought of being called that crap on a construction site working in that toilet of a highrise building. Just had to mention this.

HOP-HEAD; you did not mention any gap or "width of tie wire" in in your reply #6 on this OP thread reply just that you had 20 turns of 1/2" tubing for a chiller heigth of 10". That would be solid cooling coils like a relaxed tension spring. How was I to know with your reply? This was why I mentioned having a space between coils in the first place as a solid coil of copper tubing will reduce your cooling capacity. If your reply mentioned you had spacing between the coils this would of changed my reply to you completely. I just replied on what you posted.