Chest Freezer to Keezer Conversion: MikeE's DIY build

[EasyE]

Beautiful build! I was so inspired by this thread and build that I am now building mine off this design. I went with a 9 cu. ft. freezer from Lowes instead of the 7.2 because it was only $264. It arrives tomorrow and I am psyched. I am going to use 2x6" oak board instead of walnut that I also picked up at Lowes. And, instead of the perlick faucets (which are top shelf but about $12/ea more than the ones I picked up at the same site. I am also only doing three instead of four because I can never see myself serving four brews at one time. I never throw parties anymore so it will only be for personal consumption. I hadn't realized how truly expensive the whole build was going to be however because I saw no prices listed here. I am into it for at Least $700 so far and I still need some odds and ends before my parts list is complete. I can't wait to start building it tomorrow! Thanks again for the great pics and post build advice.

I hope your weekend build was successful. Looks like your off to a good start having all your gear ahead of the build. It took me a good while to build/collect/research. Go slow, and let me know if I can answer any questions to help you in with your build. I too was inspired by all the great keezers on this site.

When I posted my build, I tried to keep my directions simple, yet complete enough for people like me who were new to DIY builds. Building an expensive toy like this can often be intimidating. I'm happy to see I was able to reciprocate that same inspiration for others.

After I totaled up my build I had the same reaction....Holy Cow Batman, this is adding up to an expensive build. Sounds like you have a good plan to save some extra cash here and there. Good call on the perlicks. In hindsight I may have done what you did and get the next model size up, just to give some extra room with removing kegs and store bottled beer.

Please post pics of your keezer here when you finish, I want to see how great that oak looks. Good luck with your build and keep us all posted!

 

[BrewBeer4fun]

FWIW, I was originally looking to purchase a standard dual-tap kegerator, and I did a lot of research because I didn't want to buy a cheap one and have it crap out on me ... I learned that it was going to be close to $1,000 ... then I was referred to this site by a forum user on the MM site, and realized that for the same money (or less) I could build one that would fit into my decor (i.e., MUCH higher SWMBO rating) and provide additional value as well (room for bottles, chilled glasses, etc.)!

I also thought I was going to be able to get a third tap out of the deal, but alas I did not do my homework because I cannot fit a third sixth on the floor (good move on your part going with a slightly larger unit) ... but that could be a blessing in disguise, because I must admit being worried about losing some beer to spoilage if SWMBO and I didn't drink it fast enough, but no worries now.

One good recommendation for saving a few bucks is to build your own temperature controller, referring to the eBay controller thread. I built mine for less than $45, including an $11 heavy duty power cord and left over wire, grommets, etc.

Have fun on your build, and good luck!

I agree, I ended up buying the same Love controller that the author of this thread did because it rocks that there is a digital display and controls that are visible and integrated into the collar. I bought mine on Amazon for $66 and still had to get a temperature probe ($11). So those two plus shipping and handling and it cost me $91.05 all said and done. I went with Amazon because I am a PRIME member and get free second day shipping on qualified purchases. Of course, there were No Love controllers available for PRIME purchase so I screwed myself there.

I really do love (pun intended) this controller, but in retrospect, I might go with a cheaper one. For $40 cheaper, I could have gotten this complete unit on Amazon: Freezer Temperature Controller

The $91 I spent on mine hurts to even think about. I need a beer...

 

[BrewBeer4fun]

I hope your weekend build was successful. Looks like your off to a good start having all your gear ahead of the build. It took me a good while to build/collect/research. Go slow, and let me know if I can answer any questions to help you in with your build. I too was inspired by all the great keezers on this site.

When I posted my build, I tried to keep my directions simple, yet complete enough for people like me who were new to DIY builds. Building an expensive toy like this can often be intimidating. I'm happy to see I was able to reciprocate that same inspiration for others.

After I totaled up my build I had the same reaction....Holy Cow Batman, this is adding up to an expensive build. Sounds like you have a good plan to save some extra cash here and there. Good call on the perlicks. In hindsight I may have done what you did and get the next model size up, just to give some extra room with removing kegs and store bottled beer.

Please post pics of your keezer here when you finish, I want to see how great that oak looks. Good luck with your build and keep us all posted!

EasyE, I actually do have some questions. I am no cabinet maker by any means.

1. I am wondering how you got the collar structurally sound. Is there small 1"x1" blocks in the corners to sure it up and keep it from racking?

2. Is the outer walnut the only wood on the collar? Or should I ask, is there wood directly behind the inside aluminum? It does not appear from the pic on page 3 of this thread that there is any wood between the aluminum and Styrofoam.


Thank you in advance for any answers and it is Very intimidating to get started. I spent several hours this past Saturday just sanding the unfinished oak I purchased.

 

[EasyE]

EasyE, I actually do have some questions. I am no cabinet maker by any means.

1. I am wondering how you got the collar structurally sound. Is there small 1"x1" blocks in the corners to sure it up and keep it from racking?




I was going to put aluminum corner brackets on the inside of each corner on the collar, but found each corner sound as they were dovetailed together. You can find the brackets at your home depot, they fit snug in each corner and can be mounted with screws. These brackets then get covered up with the foam insulation. If you use blocks, then just cut the foam out to make room for them.




2. Is the outer walnut the only wood on the collar? Or should I ask, is there wood directly behind the inside aluminum? It does not appear from the pic on page 3 of this thread that there is any wood between the aluminum and Styrofoam.


In post #23, you will see the pink foam insulation between the walnut collar and the black aluminum. There is no wood between the aluminum and styrofoam. Yes, the walnut is the only wood on the collar.

I'm happy to help. Once you get the collar built and secured, it gets really fun! Take your time and sip cold beer. Cheers!


Thank you in advance for any answers and it is Very intimidating to get started. I spent several hours this past Saturday just sanding the unfinished oak I purchased.

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[noise]

I agree, I ended up buying the same Love controller that the author of this thread did because it rocks that there is a digital display and controls that are visible and integrated into the collar. I bought mine on Amazon for $66 and still had to get a temperature probe ($11). So those two plus shipping and handling and it cost me $91.05 all said and done. I went with Amazon because I am a PRIME member and get free second day shipping on qualified purchases. Of course, there were No Love controllers available for PRIME purchase so I screwed myself there.

I really do love (pun intended) this controller, but in retrospect, I might go with a cheaper one. For $40 cheaper, I could have gotten this complete unit on Amazon: Freezer Temperature Controller

The $91 I spent on mine hurts to even think about. I need a beer...

I feel your pain! I ended up getting the Love TSS2 from Dwyer and didn't realize it didn't come with a probe. After ordering the probe separately and paying 2x shipping I ended up with a $94 total. On the bright side it really is quite a nice controller.

 

[EasyE]

I agree, I ended up buying the same Love controller that the author of this thread did because it rocks that there is a digital display and controls that are visible and integrated into the collar. I bought mine on Amazon for $66 and still had to get a temperature probe ($11). So those two plus shipping and handling and it cost me $91.05 all said and done. I went with Amazon because I am a PRIME member and get free second day shipping on qualified purchases. Of course, there were No Love controllers available for PRIME purchase so I screwed myself there.

I really do love (pun intended) this controller, but in retrospect, I might go with a cheaper one. For $40 cheaper, I could have gotten this complete unit on Amazon: Freezer Temperature Controller

The $91 I spent on mine hurts to even think about. I need a beer...

That just ain't right to sell a temp. controller with out the probe. It's like buying a bottle of beer, then asked to pay extra for the cap. I got my controller direct from Dywer, with the probe and all for about $65. Just know that the controller will look amazing in the collar.

 

[BrewBeer4fun]

That just ain't right to sell a temp. controller with out the probe. It's like buying a bottle of beer, then asked to pay extra for the cap. I got my controller direct from Dywer, with the probe and all for about $65. Just know that the controller will look amazing in the collar.

The funny thing is I wanted to make sure the probe was water tight so I could keep it in a glass of water as you stated in your build description but the for the probes description on Amazon (and anywhere else I saw it including the Davis website) was exactly the same as the Love controller itself. So, it did not have any information specific to the probe including seal type, length of cord, or plug type, or cabling used in it. Very frustrating and definitely ain't right to have to pay an extra $11 for it. It is a great controller though and I am satisfied with the overall purchase as it will look great in the collar like yours does EasyE.

 

[BrewBeer4fun]

Well, mine is finally wired and complete. Three taps, three kegs going. Thanks EasyE for this thread and great pics to help along the way. This build took me approximately 25hrs of labor. Be aware that this is an expensive build when using all new parts and equipment.

Right now I have a Jamil's Evil Twin on tap with an Sunset Wheat clone force carb'ing as I write this post. I also have an Extra Pale Ale, a Centennial Blonde, and something that I am calling 'Death by Porter' fermenting. Can't wait to get them in the keezer...

All hail the mighty keezer!

 

[EasyE]

All hail the mighty keezer! [/QUOTE]

That is one fine keezer. Nice work. The wood turned out great, taps look ready to serve you for years to come. I really like the cooper where you have it. That tap handle is wicked....did you make it? I had to get a tap lock for the handle on mine as I sometimes would knock it while loading and unloading a keg.

I hear you about the cost, it does add up fast. However, I still can not find a 3-4 tap unit for the same cost. Personalizing the final stages of the brewing process adds a completeness to the brewing process. That keezer will make a great addition to any brew cave. Oh how keezer can do so many cool things. I would love to see some pics of the inside, see the guts of the keezer. Can you post one or two. Again, nice build. The grain in that wood is so nice, how did you attach the collar to the base of the keezer, or did you do something similar to mine?

 

[BrewBeer4fun]

Here are some more pics that explain some of the ways I built the collar, how I attached it, and the electronics and equipment I used in it.

1. It would have been nice to dovetail the collar main boards together, but I lack the stellar workshop Mike E must have. Instead, I had to hack mine together by cutting the main pieces on 45 degree angles and then adding the further support of these angle brackets that I used both Gorialla Glue and short wood screws on.

2.

3.

4. The wood on the back side of the front of the keezer collar continues down 0.5" into the channel that the chest freezers baskets would sit in. This holds the front of the collar in place, the mounting brackets on the back of the collar are the other anchor points.

Notice the fan's transformer is shown here as well. I wired it directly into the temp controller at position 7 and 10 respectively.

NOTE: By doing this, the fan is on 100% of the time when the keezer is plugged into the wall. I thought at the positions I chose (7 & 10), that I would be effectively be switching on the fan ONLY when the compressor is switched on (by the temp controller). This did not occur and now it runs constantly. At the low voltage I chose, it should not matter or effect my electric bill adversely. I do not know how the old cell phone charger / transformer will do in 35 degree temps however. Only time will tell...

5. I used this old charger from a pay as you go cell phone I had years ago. The fan was rated at 12v @ 0.16a but I altered this transformer that produces 4.2v @ 0.55a. It spins the fan much slower than it would in a computer, but will use less electric and I had no need to circulate air from the bottom of the keezer to the top at high speed.

The old cell phone charger had fold out plug spades on it used to plug the charger into the wall, so I removed them and soldered a red/black wire to the positive/negative leads by opening the case. Once I soldered the wires into place, I used 'Goop' which is a fast drying diehard silicone adhesive, to close up the holes the spade plugs used to fold out of. I did this to try and prevent any moisture from entering the (transformer) unit.

6. If no one recognizes what I used for the fan housing, it is an extension for a gutter that I bought from the Ace Hardware right next door to my house. I also drilled 1.5" holes all around the bottom of the gutter extender for the air intake.

7. I used this 9 blade PC fan I bought on Amazon with my PRIME account. Gotta love PRIME (free 2 day shipping).

8. I know there were NO wiring diagrams specific to the TS2-010 temp. controller I used in my build so I thought I would provide one. This is a wiring diagram that was taken from the TS 2008+ diagram that I found somewhere on HBT. I simply put TS2-010 on it so those who have a TS2-010 will know that it is the correct diagram for their controller.

9. This was a piece of orange extension cord I had lying around. It goes from the keezer's temp controller around the inside of the collar embedded between the two 1/2" foam boards, and out the back of the collar through a hole I drilled. It then goes down and splices into the wire coming out of the freezer.

10. And... last but not least, my Magic Hat #9 tap handle. I bought this on E-bay several years ago hoping I would have somewhere to use it someday. In retrospect, I am very glad I ordered it because I really think it makes the keezer.

 

[VaBrewer]

Sweet! I like the fan setup, that's one thing I haven't gotten around to doing yet.

 

[EasyE]

Great post of your build. Your collar is well made and put together.That keezer will give you years of enjoyment. Your unique build style will inspire others.....love the pics with descriptions. A gutter extender for your fan, great idea, nice way to save a few bucks.

That tap handle is sick, saw that on ebay last night. How long is that tap handle anyways. Consider getting a tap lock so you don't open the tap accidentally when removing or adding kegs to keezer. I have opened the tap a few times and spilled all over- beer foul!

 

[2puttbird]

Hmmm ... just had me some MH#9 tonight at the local pub ... pretty good stuff ... oh yeah, nice build also

 

[BrewBeer4fun]

Great post of your build. Your collar is well made and put together.That keezer will give you years of enjoyment. Your unique build style will inspire others.....love the pics with descriptions. A gutter extender for your fan, great idea, nice way to save a few bucks.

That tap handle is sick, saw that on ebay last night. How long is that tap handle anyways. Consider getting a tap lock so you don't open the tap accidentally when removing or adding kegs to keezer. I have opened the tap a few times and spilled all over- beer foul!

The MH#9 tap handle is 14 & 1/4" from end to end. I definitely need tap locks. I can see that now. Certainly can't have any beer fouls or sticky messes on my floor or even in my drip tray. :cross:

 

[mattyb85]

Hi Easy,

I noticed that you mentioned securing the aluminum to the walnut. Where exactly did you connect the aluminum to the walnut Im slightly confused on this part. Thanks!

 

[EasyE]

Hi Easy,

I noticed that you mentioned securing the aluminum to the walnut. Where exactly did you connect the aluminum to the walnut Im slightly confused on this part. Thanks!

The aluminum is not glued or nailed to the walnut, instead, the aluminum is folded and bent to fit over the walnut. I made the bends so that I could slip in over the inside of the aluminum, it just wraps under and over the walnut. All the manifolds and other stuff that is mounted on the aluminum helps hold in place against he walnut. I wanted it that way in case I need to make any repairs, etc, That aluminum took some time to make the bends perfect and get it all to fit together....purely for aesthetics only. You could skip the aluminum altogether, but I found the pink insulation to be not so nice to look at when I open da KEEZER! I hope that helps answer your questions. If you're going for it, I can take some closer pics of the bends so you can have a better idea. Let me know.

 

[b-boy]

I copied the aluminum idea for my keezer after seeing this. I couldn't find the black so I just went with silver. I ended up using 14 inch flashing. It looks great, but it does dent fairly easily. If I did it again I'd use heavier aluminum. It is tedious to bend and cut, but it's worth it in the end. It's easy to clean, it keeps moisture from getting to the wood inside the keexer, it seals better around the top and bottom, and looks really nice.

 

[mattyb85]

The aluminum is not glued or nailed to the walnut, instead, the aluminum is folded and bent to fit over the walnut. I made the bends so that I could slip in over the inside of the aluminum, it just wraps under and over the walnut. All the manifolds and other stuff that is mounted on the aluminum helps hold in place against he walnut. I wanted it that way in case I need to make any repairs, etc, That aluminum took some time to make the bends perfect and get it all to fit together....purely for aesthetics only. You could skip the aluminum altogether, but I found the pink insulation to be not so nice to look at when I open da KEEZER! I hope that helps answer your questions. If you're going for it, I can take some closer pics of the bends so you can have a better idea. Let me know.

Yeah i think some pictures might be helpful. I guess im still confused as to what you mean by fit over the walnut. Im going to go with oak for my build since we dont have any reuse lumber shops around where i live. Now did u bend the metal so that it covers the top and bottom of the walnut and also the insulation? I guess I mean that when you are looking down from the top into the keezer you dont see any wood at all? but from the front you see the wood obviously and you dont see the aluminum because of the trim you put around the top and bottom which im definitely going to do because of how clean that looks. I think im going to put weather stripping between the collar and freezer. I think the aluminum covering the wood and insulation would make a nice seal against the stripping already attached to the freezer lid.


Also, how long are your beer & co2 lines? Just trying to figure out how much i need to buy.

 

[EasyE]

The beer lines are 8 feet. PSI set at 9. I will send some more detailed pics asap of the aluminum. right now I'm enjoying fresh HopSlam from Bells here in Michigan. Hoppyy!

 

[mattyb85]

thanks a lot man, cant wait to see the close up pics!

 

[EasyE]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44237&stc=1&d=1326994945

I attached two pics of the new aluminum I put inside the collar of the keezer. I had to remove the old aluminum because after closing the keezer lid, some of the aluminum was outside the keezer, and condensation would form, causing the walnut to get wet. I was concerned that the long term damage from condensation would harm the walnut, so I ripped it out and folded new. The new aluminum only wraps around the pink insulation. No nails, just folds so it fold tight together. The folds on the aluminum required a friend of mine to bring over his aluminum bend, which made the folds clean. I used aluminum scissors to make the final cuts. It took me 2 tries to finally get it right. Now I have no issues with water on the walnut, and the clean look inside is another bonus.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44236&stc=1&d=1326994945

 

[jeffsciv23]

wow, thanks for posting up your build. looks great. i built a kegerator with a tower out of a mini fridge last summer but need to get something bigger and thought a keezer would be perfect. theres alot of options when it comes to towers, shanks in the collar, enclosing the keezer in wood. im not totally decided on what to do yet. ide like a tower and will probly have to do a collar with it as well. would there be room in that freezer for a 1/2brl and a corny on the hump? i dont brew my own yet but would like to try and start. oh and love the look of your temp control in the collar.

and for the guy that posted the wiring diagram (sorry forgot the name), thanks. if i went with a fan i would like it to kick on when the compressor is on, so wouldnt i just use position 7 and 11 instead of 7 and 10 like your doing?

last question. is there a minimum collar size need to use to fit a corny on the hump?

 

[mattyb85]

those definitely helped a lot!

 

[jeffsciv23]

do you have anymore pictures of how you mounted the wheels?

 

[EasyE]

do you have anymore pictures of how you mounted the wheels?

I looked, must have erased them. The only pic I have is posted on page 3. I found mounting the wheels to be one of the the easier part of the DIY project. I cut the "strap tight" strips into rectangles, then drilled 4 holes in each of them using my metal step drill bit. It just gave me more surface area to mount the casters which has a base the shape of a rectangle, so I cut the the strap rite an inch or two longer for screws and a more sturdy fit.

Two of the wheels will have plenty of freezer space to mount them, easy to mount with four screws in each. The other two wheels did not have very much freezer to mount wheels too, due to the fact that they were under the hump of the freezer. I just fit 2 bolts and 2 screws on each of the wheels under the hump. When you flip dat keezer, you will see. When I did mine, I was poundin' dem pints!

I found the "strap tight" at the home depot in the lumber section, used to join large pieces of wood. They are easy to cut to the size you want. I went out and measured each of the rectangles.....all were cut to 2 inch by 6 inch. 4 bolts w nuts, 12 self screws just less than an inch long.

I'm listening to my yeast starter swirling behind right now, almost like a water fountain at work. I'm brewing a Weizenbock in the morning, it's like 10 degrees here in southeast Michigan. Post some pics here when you finish with your build.

 

[jeffsciv23]

Thanks for the info. This keezer project is alot more planning then my kegerator build lol. I love the look of the black with wood, but I want a tower. Think it would be to high if I was to use same freezer and collar height as you? How tall is yours anyways? Sorry for all the questions but I just want this planned out before I get started.

 

[dannedry]

So you used self tapping metal screws to fix the wheels / plates to the bottom of the freezer? Just got my 7 cf GE chest freezer, and picked up some casters from Menards on the way home... Thanks for the info! Amazing build!

 

[ScottJB1980]

I copied the aluminum idea for my keezer after seeing this. I couldn't find the black so I just went with silver. I ended up using 14 inch flashing. It looks great, but it does dent fairly easily. If I did it again I'd use heavier aluminum. It is tedious to bend and cut, but it's worth it in the end. It's easy to clean, it keeps moisture from getting to the wood inside the keexer, it seals better around the top and bottom, and looks really nice.

Do you have any pictures showing how your flashing turned out?

 

[Rbeckett]

Well!!!!, I am one jealous newby. That set of pics was absolutely most beautimus. I like the detail and clean lines all tucked away and out of sight. The exterior and the stainless base just fit. Thanks for giving me some really nice project ideas for next fall.
Bob

 

[EasyE]

So you used self tapping metal screws to fix the wheels / plates to the bottom of the freezer? Just got my 7 cf GE chest freezer, and picked up some casters from Menards on the way home... Thanks for the info! Amazing build!

Yes, self tapping screws. Please post pics of your build as every keezer is unique and cool! the wheels go on easy, and the screws/bolts hold it firmly in place. Once the wheels go on, the keezer comes alive.....