Cheapest Electric Setup

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If you REALLY want to go cheap theres always this...And yes I built one for the fun of it.Cooked me some ham and eggs..and melt pennies...and lit a fire..and so on..and so on....

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOj4Cauvhqc[/ame]
 
A 5500w ultra low watt density heating element and a 40 amp SSR coupled with one of these controllers: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=444 will work very well. That will work at either 240v or 120v.

If you can implement 240v, you will be impressed with how quickly you can bring your wort to boil. However, you don't need nearly that much power to maintain a boil. The controller unit is necessary in any case. I have one of those units and it is slick!
 
Here is the scoop on the manual mode. You hit boil and drop the temp to keep it from over boiling, the boil stops so you bring it up again, it hits the boil and the hot break shoots up over the pot lip.

The SCR is for instant boil control, a cooler SSR and better control of a hard boil. These guys are mad-wizards at the manual control on their PIDs but I'm not and like the infinite control of a SCR over a boil over any day of the week. :rockin:
I dont really agree here... When in manual mode and you set the pid to say 75% on our mypins that means than the element is only on for 75% of each second...(unlike auber pids where the minimum cycle time is supposedly 2 seconds) anyway I have brewed over 65 times on my setup and the only boilover was last week when I had company and we brewed an IPA... we had a foam over when adding the 60 min hops and didnt see it till it boiled over.. normally you can just flip the element off for a few seconds to let the foam clear and then resume heating again.

The manual pwm mode on a pid has just as much control (more actually with a repeatable digital readout you dont get with an scr unless you add more hardware.)
 
I find this kinda funny, the "cheapest electric setup" thread has turned into a discussion on PID management. Lol

Kinda like economy car and how much boost for turbo optimization, and ceramic brake upgrade.

They always do... I believe part of the reason is you often have people who may not actually know the pros and cons / advantages and disadvantages of control vs just on and off and 240v vs 120v... I would think the people who ask these questions might value the feedback from others who have different setups or may have already started at the bottom and worked their way up to something faster with more control. or gone from something with more control to something more simple because they never used it.

Sometimes the Cheapest may not be the right move and someone may not realize the tradeoffs or on the flipside someone might be thinking what is a pid and why would I want one or not need one? if the OP wants to recirculate and control mash temps the cheapest option is not the same as just wanting to achieve a steady boil.

Plus everyone likes to weight in with their opinion and why they have it...
 
The controller unit is necessary in any case. I have one of those units and it is slick!


I will take it a step further and say 120 or 240 can both be done without a controller by simply matching element size to required wattage at boil.

I add this in that I think many more would be using electric if they only knew how simple it can be.

Approx 3000w total for 5 gallon batches, and 4000w for 10 gallon batches.
 
I will take it a step further and say 120 or 240 can both be done without a controller by simply matching element size to required wattage at boil.

I guess it could be done crudely without a controller, but I've found that having the ability to more closely manage the power input to the observed boil intensity is welcome. Given that element wattage varies in steps of around 1000 watts, I'm not hopeful that matching wattage to batch size is the best (or even acceptable) way to go.

In addition, I can tell everyone that having the capability to hit the wort with a lot of watts is handy for bringing the kettle to a boil more quickly. I'll stick with my original recommendation for brewers to incorporate as much power as their electrical supply will allow and also include a controller to fine tune their boil vigor.

Being cheap does not always pay off.
 
A 5500w ultra low watt density heating element and a 40 amp SSR coupled with one of these controllers: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=444 will work very well. That will work at either 240v or 120v.

If you can implement 240v, you will be impressed with how quickly you can bring your wort to boil. However, you don't need nearly that much power to maintain a boil. The controller unit is necessary in any case. I have one of those units and it is slick!

Damn! I wish I had seen this before ordering the PID. Seems like a great choice
 
A 5500w ultra low watt density heating element and a 40 amp SSR coupled with one of these controllers: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=444 will work very well. That will work at either 240v or 120v.

If you can implement 240v, you will be impressed with how quickly you can bring your wort to boil. However, you don't need nearly that much power to maintain a boil. The controller unit is necessary in any case. I have one of those units and it is slick!

Auber has a newer version of that controller that has a temp hold function in addition to the linear power set function. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=560 They don't call it a PID but it performs the same function. It also has a "race to boil" then back off to pre-set power function, and a boil timer.

Brew on :mug:
 
Auber has a newer version of that controller that has a temp hold function in addition to the linear power set function. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=560 They don't call it a PID but it performs the same function. It also has a "race to boil" then back off to pre-set power function, and a boil timer.

Brew on :mug:
Ok now ill be the one to say it... The title of this thread is the cheapest Electric setup... You might have confused it with the most expensive?
your link is down for maintenance but.
I hardly consider a single pid/element controllers they sell for over $800 shipped cheap! (or reasonable but thats just my opinion) one could buy the alternative components elswhere and builda controller with all the exact functionalily for about $150-200 if they built it themselves.
 
So at 75% manual mode the controller will simply pick up the relay 75% of the time? Interesting

Yes 75% of the cycle time setting which on a mypin can be as little as 1 second (on .75, off .25 of each second) and from what I'm told, limited to a 2 second minimum cycle time on the auber so you may possibly not see quite as smooth of a boil with an auber pid. (meaning 75% on an auber would be on 1.25 seconds then off .75 then on 1.25 ect) That and apparently its more complicated to switch to manual mode because many put in an ssvr and pot with a switch to switch over to the knob control instead of using the built in pwm mode on the auber units...
 
I guess it could be done crudely without a controller, but I've found that having the ability to more closely manage the power input to the observed boil intensity is welcome. Given that element wattage varies in steps of around 1000 watts, I'm not hopeful that matching wattage to batch size is the best (or even acceptable) way to go.

In addition, I can tell everyone that having the capability to hit the wort with a lot of watts is handy for bringing the kettle to a boil more quickly. I'll stick with my original recommendation for brewers to incorporate as much power as their electrical supply will allow and also include a controller to fine tune their boil vigor.

Being cheap does not always pay off.

You really should let the people over at Grainfather know that you are not hopeful that matching wattage to batch size is the best (or even acceptable) way to go. :) The Grainfather w/ only 2000w operates at 100% power to produce a boil, same premise I proposed for the "Cheapest Electric Setup" concept of this thread.

They seem to be selling a sh$t load of them to many happy users who are boiling away "crudely" without a boil controller, with just a switch to full power labeled "boil". The Grainfather is not cheap at all, yet functions well with only the power needed to produce a boil, no more. While the Grainfather has a controller, it is not used to control the boil vigor, but rather just run at 100% to boil.

Yes, I agree with you, having a large amount of power with the ability to regulate it is indeed better, but that is not the point of this thread.
 
Auber has a newer version of that controller that has a temp hold function in addition to the linear power set function. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=560 They don't call it a PID but it performs the same function. It also has a "race to boil" then back off to pre-set power function, and a boil timer.

Brew on :mug:

Ok after much reading and research I've decided to return all items I've purchased and buy this instead. Looks like exactly what I need coupled with an SSR and a stainless 240V ripple element. Total seems to be about $75 not including the pot and possible a pump for circulation
 
Ok after much reading and research I've decided to return all items I've purchased and buy this instead. Looks like exactly what I need coupled with an SSR and a stainless 240V ripple element. Total seems to be about $75 not including the pot and possible a pump for circulation

Since the link was down at the time I thought he was commenting on the new controllers auber is selling assembled and not just the pwm control module.
I guess you could do it for $75... You still need a heatsink an enclosure not to mention an element and wiring and outlets/connectors ... then some sort of enclosure for the element wiring... I think it might end up being a little more depending on what you buy... I would go with this element since cost is a concern. It has a stainless base that will not rust unlike the regular water heating ripple elements.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dernord-240...743480?hash=item3f5ac42478:g:qt0AAOSwUV9WmK7m

I used these on a build which also saved a lot over nema connectors,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5mm-Dia-3...587280?hash=item4adbc34490:g:aOAAAOSwT6pVlVu1
 
Auber has a newer version of that controller that has a temp hold function in addition to the linear power set function. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=560 They don't call it a PID but it performs the same function. It also has a "race to boil" then back off to pre-set power function, and a boil timer.

Brew on :mug:
Ok now ill be the one to say it... The title of this thread is the cheapest Electric setup... You might have confused it with the most expensive?
your link is down for maintenance but.
I hardly consider a single pid/element controller for over $800 shipped cheap! (or reasonable but thats just my opinion) one could buy the alternative components elswhere and builda controller with all the exact functionalily for about $150-200 if they built it themselves.

The controller I linked to is $46.95. Far cry from $800. It's a single component that will do the job of a PID + DSPR1 or SSVR (mash temp control + knob for boil power control.) A configuration of interest to many. Not the absolute cheapest way to go, but cost effective for the functionality.

Brew on :mug:
 
The controller I linked to is $46.95. Far cry from $800. It's a single component that will do the job of a PID + DSPR1 or SSVR (mash temp control + knob for boil power control.) A configuration of interest to many. Not the absolute cheapest way to go, but cost effective for the functionality.

Brew on :mug:
Again the link was down this morning for maintenance. I thought you were linking their newer pre built controllers http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=539
Not just the bare pwm control module. ..Honest mistake, and big difference.
 
Since the link was down at the time I thought he was commenting on the new controllers auber is selling assembled and not just the pwm control module.
I guess you could do it for $75... You still need a heatsink an enclosure not to mention an element and wiring and outlets/connectors ... then some sort of enclosure for the element wiring... I think it might end up being a little more depending on what you buy... I would go with this element since cost is a concern. It has a stainless base that will not rust unlike the regular water heating ripple elements.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dernord-240...743480?hash=item3f5ac42478:g:qt0AAOSwUV9WmK7m

I used these on a build which also saved a lot over nema connectors,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5mm-Dia-3...587280?hash=item4adbc34490:g:aOAAAOSwT6pVlVu1


Thanks, ya I bought an aluminum 1/16th DIN enclosure that can act as the heat sink for the SSR as well. It was $21. And I bought this element on Amazon:

240v 5500w Ripple White Stainless Steel Water Heating Element Instant Immersion Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4L1Q4W/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I work for the power company so I have tons of access to all kinds of wire. Just need a plug I guess
 
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I would go with this element since cost is a concern. It has a stainless base that will not rust unlike the regular water heating ripple elements.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dernord-240...743480?hash=item3f5ac42478:g:qt0AAOSwUV9WmK7m
And I bought this element on Amazon:

240v 5500w Ripple White Stainless Steel Water Heating Element Instant Immersion Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4L1Q4W/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Can you confirm that these elements are 100% stainless? I know Brew Hardware carries all stainless elements like this one. I just want to be sure that these suggested elements are basically equivalent, since it's the base that often rusts.
 
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I just want to be sure that these suggested elements are basically equivalent, since it's the base that often rusts.


Equivalent? I don't think so. The Brew Hardware element is Made in USA and comes with what most feel has the best warranty, customer service, and technical expertise in the industry. The other element appears to be a Chinese copy, and while they may appear similar, the copy is of unknown quality and workmanship, being sold with likely zero warranty no customer service, and questionable quality and workmanship.

How you choose to spend your money is your decision. Based upon price, quality, and warrantee, I would suggest the Brew Hardware option. As said above, if price alone is your most important factor, try the Chinese copy, but if you end up needing to buy 2, all economy is lost.
 
Can you confirm that these elements are 100% stainless? I know Brew Hardware carries all stainless elements like this one. I just want to be sure that these suggested elements are basically equivalent, since it's the base that often rusts.

Yes these have stainless bases. Ebrew supply sells these same elements for as much as $42 each plus shipping...

Brewhardware sells elements made in the USA for the most part if not entirely, they are from the company that makes them for camco to sell as thier own brand. this is why they cost a bit more.

I will also add that I bought my element from kal on the electric brewer site ,It was over $40 and it actually came from spike brewing, though I know Kal gets proceeds from every link someone uses to make a purchase on his site which I believe he has stated before himself. (smart really but no he didnt just provide all those DIY links to be a nice guy ). While it works well it only puts out 4000w and does not appear to be made by the company who makes the camco elements... I suspect it is also chinese by the way it was formed and made compared to my other elements.
 
Equivalent? I don't think so. The Brew Hardware element is Made in USA and comes with what most feel has the best warranty, customer service, and technical expertise in the industry. The other element appears to be a Chinese copy, and while they may appear similar, the copy is of unknown quality and workmanship, being sold with likely zero warranty no customer service, and questionable quality and workmanship.

How you choose to spend your money is your decision. Based upon price, quality, and warrantee, I would suggest the Brew Hardware option. As said above, if price alone is your most important factor, try the Chinese copy, but if you end up needing to buy 2, all economy is lost.
The reality of this is, No one has ever report having any issues with these that I've seen at all. If they did receive a bad one they simply contact the seller who will refund them or send a replacement.. just because its from overseas directly instead of through a middleman company doesnt mean theres no support.. Ebay has made a lot of changed to their rules and has good return support policies as does amazon. I even got refunded for a purchase I just made on aliexpress because it took too long to arrive (showed up the day after the dispute was settles and was refunded and this was a first time something like this happened after many purchases)

The following is just my opinion on it but.

Your comments here make a good point but to me, But it seems your exaggerating things and showing a biased opinion in the process...Or maybe you actually thing thats the way it is I dont really know. If we really avoided all the generic chinese products here companies like auberins, ebew supply and yes even brewhardware I believe would be hurting pretty bad... Does the material for your bags come from a US manufacturer? It most likely doesnt because it would be harder to make a profit. I'm all for buying and supporting local dont get me wrong (which is why I bought one of your bags myself even though I could find them cheaper at the time) BTW did you invent BIAB bags or are you making and selling clones? How is this different? when is it safe to manufacture something that already been invented and not be accused of being a clone maker? I believe the patents on the electric heating element ran out a long time ago now.

The whole point of this thread is the cheapest option,
Because of that you, defended all sorts of shortcuts earlier and shot down options that would cut out functionality that would realistically much more likely have paid off for the OP than paying extra for a warranty if his element was DOA especially since you get that same replacement warranty through amazon or ebay. Again your opinion but you can see how others can see it differently. being what it is and its unlikeliness to fail, I would choose added functionality myself.

BTW from what I read a couple years ago Camco doesnt make elements (or anything) they buy them from a couple different suppliers so I guess they sell clones too (If one of those suppliers is even the company that invented the electric element?) Its usually not as simple as we all want to believe. Camco contracts all different companies to make products to thier specs and sell them as their brand some of their products are US made others come from all over the world...

Yes Bobby at brewhardware gets his elements from a generic OEM american supplier who sells them to other companies like camco and ace hardware to markup and sell so we believe they are 100% made in america and his prices are actually very very fair considering his costs are higher in this case. But honestly this isnt the typical case that this argument is normally made for here.
The more common reality of it would be an American company like ebrew supply who buys these elements for about $3 each http://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...62175659.html?spm=a2700.7724838.30.260.wVmlxj
because they order them in quantities of 100 or more and then resells them as $42 each plus shipping and people think its a fair price because he will sent a replacement if by some chance its defective?
All im saying is just because an american "company" is selling it, doesnt necessarily mean it isnt the same generic overseas item just at a high markup and on that same token, just because its from overseas doesnt necessarily mean its junk whether its bought direct or through middlemen.
 
Is Auber an American company? They seem to be based out of GA

Almost all thier products are made in china including thier pids... most of what they sell is generic and can be found on ebay amazon and aliexpress for about half of what they charge although their prices have been coming down lately to be more competitive now that more competitors are doing the same thing or people are becoming more educated consumers. people still insist they are the best because they support the stuff well and they are an American company right ? So all their products somehow have been washed of the sins of their origin. and they can purchase there free of guilt (and believe its better quality)

BTW you kinda just made my point...
 
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